Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2018

($35):  Davis Bynum was a pioneer with Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley, being the first to bottle a single vineyard example of that wine almost 50 years ago.  This one, despite a stated alcohol of 14.5 percent, is balanced and not overblown or overdone.  Though initially quite fruit driven, the engaging savory subtlety of Pinot Noir comes through with time in the glass.  Mild and suave tannins allow for immediate enjoyment with, say, grilled salmon.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2021