Villa Matilde, Campania IGP (Italy) Aglianico “Rocca dei Leoni” 2017

($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Aglianico, the grape known for heavyweight wines, such as Taurasi, bottled under screwcap?  Who would have guessed Aglianico-lite would work — but, in Villa Matilde’s hands, it does.  This light to mid-weight red (not a description used very often for Aglianico) delivers engaging hints of tar alongside fine tannins.  The focus here is definitely on the minerals, not the fruit.  Though a lighter style of wine, it is not fleeting.  Indeed, it has a real presence.  Uplifting freshness accompanies its lovely austerity.  A hearty dish is in order.
91 Michael Apstein May 4, 2021