($16, Classical Wines from Spain): My mantra is producer, producer, producer. But when I am unfamiliar with a producer, I look at the importer, especially those who specialize in a country or region, because some importers’ portfolio are more consistent than others. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Losada, Bierzo (Spain) 2011
($23, Classical Wines from Spain): 
Bierzo may lack the name recognition of Rioja, but its wines can be equally memorable. The Mencía grape, historically known for making dilute wines from over cropped vines, can make stunning wines, such as this one, when the vines are planted on the rocky hillsides in this northwestern region of Spain. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Douro (Portugal) Touriga Nacional 2011
($56, Vintus Wines): 
Touriga Nacional, the most prized grape for Port, is also the most prized grape for Portugal’s dry red wines. Quinta do Noval’s bottling of their dry wine is as exemplary as their Port. This is an elegant and racy wine, a true thoroughbred. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Vinho Regional Duriense (Portugal) “Cedro do Noval” 2009
($19, Vintus Wines): 
Quinta do Noval, one of the world’s greatest Port producers, has been making dry wines from their home in the Douro Valley for about a decade. They make three levels of dry wines. The first level, Cedro do Noval, named after the famous cedar tree that dominate the terrace at the Quinta do Noval, is a blend primarily of the classical Portuguese varieties with a small amount of Syrah. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012
($200): 
I first tasted Cloudburst wines last year and was enthralled by them. I figured owner/winemaker Will Berliner either had beginner’s luck or was a visionary. Now that I’ve tasted another vintage of his Chardonnay, Cabernet and, now, Malbec, it is clear that his talents are not explained by beginner’s luck. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Malbec 2012
($225): Will Berliner, who has already shown his talent with his sensational Cabernet and Chardonnay, has added an equally impressive Malbec to his line up. Berliner included a small amount of Malbec in his Cabernet Sauvignon previously and clearly liked how it did so he decided to make a small amount of wine (5,000 bottles) exclusively from that variety. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($250): 
Will Berliner, owner/winemaker at Cloudburst says he cares “about clarity and purity.” He found both in his 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, an extraordinary wine. In keeping with the Cloudburst style, Berliner squeezes incredible flavor and nuances out of his grapes without imparting heaviness. … Read more
Errazuriz, Aconcagua Valley (Chile) Chardonnay “Wild Ferment” 2011
($18, Vintus): Errazuriz, one of Chile’s leading producers, is based in the northerly Aconcagua Valley, instead of near Santiago, home to most of the other leaders in the industry. Their “Wild Ferment” Chardonnay has always been one of my favorites, especially at the price. … Read more
Edna Valley, Central Coast (California) Chardonnay 2012
($15): It’s refreshing to find a California Chardonnay that’s balanced and delivers so much enjoyment for $15. The winemaking team has walked the line nicely by imparting a touch of seductive creaminess and a subtle patina of oakiness without going overboard. … Read more
McManus Family Vineyards, California (United States) Pinot Grigio 2013
($10): When people complain they cannot find good inexpensive California wine, I point them to McManus Family Vineyards. They have a consistent track record of producing good, well-priced wines, such as this Pinot Grigio. Floral with the barest hint of pears, it has sufficient acidity to match it with a simple fish dish, but not so much that you’d shy away from drinking it by itself as an aperitif. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yountville Selection” 2010
($195): 
Grgich’s 2010 Yountville Selection Cabernet Sauvignon is one of California’s grandest wines. It reminds us why Napa Valley, and in this case, the Yountville region, is so revered for that grape. The winemaking team, led by Mike Grgich’s nephew, Ivo Jeramaz, has hit the bull’s eye with this wine. … Read more
Vall Llach, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Porrera de Vi de Vila de Vall Llach” 2010
($65, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Priorat is one of just two appellations awarded Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status, Spain’s highest official wine category (Rioja is the other). Producers there are just starting to subdivide the region to show the distinctiveness of the wines from the various villages that comprise the DOCa. … Read more
Bolla, IGT Verona (Veneto, Italy) “Creso” 2010
($23): Traditionalists are advised not to read the technical details of this wine before tasting it. The Cabernet Sauvignon (one-third of the blend), the year’s aging in new French oak and the 15% stated alcohol all have the capacity to obliterate the character of the wine and throw it out of balance. … Read more
Marchese Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano Vecchie Viti” 2011
($29, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Frescobaldi, one of Italy’s finest producers, owns estates throughout Tuscany. Their Nipozzano estate is home to their splendid line of Chianti from the often-overlooked Rùfina subzone of that region. This bottling is from the oldest vines (Vecchie Viti) on the property. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Alle Mura Riserva 2007
($80): 
Castello Banfi has been — and remains — a leader in Montalcino, specifically refining and raising the profile of one of Italy’s finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino. They are one of the largest and best producers in the region and have devoted tons of money and done decades of research to determine which clones of Sangiovese do best in the region. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cerequio” 2010
($107, Kobrand): 
Chiarlo owns more than half (23 of 40 acres) of this famed vineyard located in the commune of La Morra. In the 19th century the Cerequio vineyard was considered the only first growth of Barolo, according to Alberto Chiarlo, describes the wine from this vineyard, a south-facing amphitheatre, as the “Queen of Barolo” because of its ripe and open character. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2010
($107, Kobrand): The 45-acre Cannubi vineyard, one of Barolo’s most acclaimed, is divided among 22 producers, according to Alberto Chiarlo. With 3 acres, Chiarlo is the second largest owner, but they still produce only 6,000 bottles annually. Chiarlo explains that Barolo’s two major soil types converge in Cannubi, which, in his opinion, accounts for its wines’ complexity and power. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “Le Orme” 2011
($15, Kobrand): The 2011 vintage, a warm one in Piedmont, was particularly good for Barbera because the extra ripeness balances that grape’s inherent acidity. With its bright signature and fruity charm, Chiarlo’s Le Orme is a great introduction for those who are unfamiliar with the virtues of that grape and wine. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “La Court” 2011
($52, Kobrand): 
La Court, a more polished and “important” wine, makes a fascinating comparison with Chiarlo’s other Barbera d’Asti, Le Orme. The grapes come from the same vineyard, according to Alberto Chiarlo, but the ones destined for La Court are harvested later and then treated differently in the winery with fermentation occurring like Barolo, in open vats. … Read more
Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon (Languedoc, France) “Les Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2013
($13, H. B. Wine Merchants): Chapoutier, one of the great Rhône producers, has expanded into the Languedoc with a terrific trio of wines, a white, a red and a rosé, from the Côtes du Roussillon appellation. This crisp and refreshing white has a surprising lift that balances and enhances the subtle stone fruit character. … Read more
Château de Sours, Bordeaux (France) 2010
($20, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Although the producer is always the most important information on the label, sometimes the importer’s name makes me sit up and take notice. For example, if Jeanne Marie de Champs’ name were on the back label, I would buy the wine. … Read more
Errazuriz, Aconcagua Costa (Chile) Chardonnay “Wild Ferment 2011
($20, Vintus): 
Aconcagua Costa is a subregion of Aconcagua, Chile’s most northern most premium wine growing area. Closer to the Pacific Ocean, it is a cooler area, perfect for Chardonnay, a grape than expresses itself best in cooler climate. Errazuriz has taken advantage of the location to making a stunning $20 Chardonnay (if it carried a Napa Valley appellation it would be at least twice as much.) … Read more
Vall Llach, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Embruix de Vall Llach” 2011
($25, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Vall Llach, one of Priorat’s top producers, designates fruit from younger vines for their Embruix (bewitched in Catalan dialect). A 50/50 blend of the traditional varieties (Cariñena and Garnacha) with international ones (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah), it delivers a more modern expression of the appellation.… Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay Estate 2011
($34, Wilson Daniels): 
The grapes for this wine come from better-situated vineyards, either theirs or ones they manage. Indeed, they select the best fruit for this Estate bottling with the lesser quality grapes going into their excellent and very well-priced “Village” bottling, which, at $20 a bottle, is one of the best Chardonnays I’ve had at that price. … Read more
Cantina Roccafiore, Todi Grechetto Superiore DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Fiorfiore” 2012
($18, Vignaioli Selection): Grechetto di Todi, also known as Pignoletto, is a distinct variety from Grechetto di Umbria, the grape frequently used in Orvieto. So don’t think this is an Orvieto. Not surprisingly, given the name of the winery and the name of the wine, it is beautifully floral. … Read more
Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($38, Wilson Daniels): Technically from Beaujolais, the wines from Moulin-à-Vent stand apart and have more in common with the rest of Burgundy because of the granitic soil of the appellation. This is a broad shouldered robust Moulin-à-Vent, reflective of the warmth and ideal growing conditions of the vintage. … Read more
Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010
($38, Wilson Daniels): 
Similar to their 2009, Château du Moulin-À-Vent’s 2010 Moulin-à-Vent reflects the vintage’s cooler growing season. Fresher and more lively than their 2009, the 2010 has an uplifting sour cherry-like finish that begs for another sip. Still with the granitic edge and firm — not hard — tannins expected from top-notch Moulin-à-Vent, it’s more linear and less opulent compared to the 2009. … Read more
Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 2010
($48): Denser, more herbal and less fruity than their Merlot, this wine is quintessential expression of Napa Valley Cabernet. At this stage the tannins make it a less “friendly” wine — you don’t want a glass of it before dinner — but it’s a fabulous choice for prime rib. … Read more
Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Mt. George Vineyard 2010
($35): This is real Merlot and shows what that grape, when handled properly, can do. Very aromatic, it conveys ripe black cherry-like fruitiness and a pleasant and subtle funkiness that is characteristic of top-notch Merlot. Broad and deep, it carries its ripeness — it weighs in at a 14.9% stated alcohol — effortlessly. … Read more
Jordan Vineyard and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($53): 
Jordan continues to excel by sticking to the founders’ philosophy of making refined, not blockbuster, Cabernet Sauvignon. Their 2010 fits that mold beautifully. The bouquet is explosive, but in the mouth it is restrained and refined, seducing you with polish and persistence, not power. … Read more
Boschendal, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2011
($40, Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits): Elgin, a region about 60 miles south east of Cape Town, is known for its cool climate because of its proximity to the ocean. Chardonnay does well in cool climate because the lower temperatures at night allow the grapes to hold on to their acidity, which translates into freshness in the wine. … Read more
Cantina de Soave, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) “Rocca Sveva” 2013
($13): Cantina de Soave, a very good cooperative, makes a wide range of wines. The Rocca Sveva line is one of their upper level ones. This crisp Soave, clean and fresh, has a touch of fruitiness in the finish. Not the watery Soave so common decades ago, it has character. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2010
($18, Louis Latour USA): Viré-Clessé, a small, 500-acre appellation created only in 1998, was carved out of the Mâcon-Villages appellation because the wines from Viré and Clessé (along with a couple of other towns) had considerably more potential. Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, has realized that potential with their 2010 Viré-Clessé. … Read more
Château Moulin-À-Vent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($42, Wilson Daniels): Though Château Moulin-À-Vent focuses on their red wines, they also have old Chardonnay-planted vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé. Their Vieilles Vignes bottling conveys the stony character of Pouilly-Fuissé. Tightly wound at this stage, I would give it a few years before pulling the cork even though it’s from the 2012 vintage, one known for lower-acid white wines, because there’s no lack of structure here — the old vines speaking, I’m sure.… Read more
Château Lassègue, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) “Lassègue” 2005
($150, Sovereign Wine Imports): 
The 2005 vintage was exceptional in Bordeaux, and, indeed, throughout France. The weather was perfect throughout the growing season. The right amount of sun and the right amount of rain at the right time brought the grapes to perfect maturity. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Pinot Noir 2012
($20): The Yarra Valley, just northeast of Melbourne, is a cool region, nicely suited for Pinot Noir, which can lose delicacy if the weather’s too warm. Indeed, this Pinot Noir has a lovely lacey, delicate quality enhanced by uplifting acidity. A subtle savory character comes through the fruitiness, adding complexity. … Read more
Robert Oatley, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 2012
($20, Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits): This is the kind of wine that made Australian Shiraz famous. It’s a little meaty, a little spicy, a little fruity and most importantly, not over done, alcoholic or over wrought. I’d even say it’s graceful, word rarely used to describe Australian Shiraz, and when it is, it’s describing a wine that’s far more expensive than this one. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2011
($30): 
This marvelous Cabernet, approachable now, combines elegance with power. Not as concentrated as Chateau Ste. Michelle’s rendition from the Cold Creek Vineyard, this release from Horse Heaven Hills displays more refinement at this stage, while still delivering plenty of oomph. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2011
($35): This broad shouldered, concentrated Cabernet combines dense ripe fruitiness with more than a whiff of black olives and herbs. With a hint of bitterness in the finish and fine balance, it would be a fitting choice for a charcoal grilled steak. … Read more
Michael Mondavi Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Animo” 2010
($85): 
The grapes for Animo, (“spirit,” in Italian), come from the family’s vineyard atop Atlas Peak. Michael Mondavi, one of the sons of the late, legendary Robert Mondavi, explains that they chose the name because they felt the wine expressed the spirit of Atlas Peak. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($60): 
This wine shows you can’t rely on vintage charts. The 2011 vintage in Napa was terrible for Cabernet Sauvignon, the valley’s signature grape. Unusually cool wet weather made it a struggle for Cabernet vines to fully ripen their fruit during the growing season. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2012
($21, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Saint-Véran, a small appellation in the southern Mâconnais, has the potential to produce wines that are a touch more concentrated than those from the broader Mâcon-Villages appellation. The ripeness in this wine comes from both the appellation and the vintage. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2013
($30, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): 
Pouilly-Fuissé, the best appellation in the Mâconnais region of Burgundy, has such a following in the US that producers can bulk up yields or otherwise cut corners on quality. Drouhin does not. The first sip conveys the refinement that separates this appellation from the rest of the Mâconnais. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2013
($13, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The Mâcon-Villages regional category of Burgundy is my go-to area for well-priced Chardonnay-based wines. Sadly, the overall quality of Mâcon-Villages is highly variable. That’s why it’s important to find ones from top-notch producers, such as Drouhin, a leading Burgundy négociant. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) “Couvent des Thorins” 2012
($28, Wilson Daniels): 
Ever since the Parinet family purchased this iconic property in 2009, they have been making marvelous wine. They focus solely on wine from Moulin-à-Vent, one of the top crus of Beaujolais. Moulin-à-Vent is home to well-structured rich wines that often need years of bottle age — these wines are as far away from insipidly fruity Beaujolais-Nouveau as you can get. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) Clos des Londres 2009
($100, Wilson Daniels): 
Yes, you read the price correctly — $100 for a bottle of Beaujolais. But to associate this wine with conventional image of Beaujolais — a fruity easy-to-drink wine — would be a terrible mistake. The wines from Moulin-à-Vent, though a village in the Beaujolais region, rightly stand apart from that region and carry their own appellation. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Signature Series” 2013
($15): 
Those who still think Australian Chardonnays are big and buttery need to try this restrained example from Western Australian, an area at the forefront of producing stylish and balanced wines. With subtle green apple nuances, this linear wine captures your attention its vivacity. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Reserve 2011
($60): Dick Ponzi was one of the Oregon wine pioneers when he and his wife established their winery and vineyard in 1970. At the time, scarcely anyone thought Oregon was a place to grow Pinot Noir. Well, he was correct, as Ponzi’s Pinot Noirs have shown over the years. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay Maté’s Vineyard 2011
($52, Wilson Daniels): 
Readers know I am an enthusiastic fan of Kumeu River’s wines. For me, this one, named in honor of the patriarch of the family, is always their best. It holds that position in 2011. It conveys the all-too-often elusive balance of richness and vivacity, with just the right amount of each. … Read more
Sartori, Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Veneto, Italy) 2011
($15, Cru Artisan Wines): Andrea Sartori refers to their Valpolicella Classico as “the disappearing version” because so many producers are abandoning it for a wine made using the ripasso method, a technique that adds power. One taste and you’re glad this bottling hasn’t disappeared.… Read more