($18): Make no mistake, with 16 percent residual sugar, this is a sweet Riesling, best suited either with cheese or as dessert. (I am not an advocate of sweet wines with dessert because I think the sweetness of the dessert and the wine fight with one another, but that’s a subject I’ll to leave to Paul Lukacs and Marguerite Thomas’s “Wine With” column). … Read more
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Forrest Estate, Marlborough (New Zealand) Riesling “The Doctors’” 2010
($19, Pacific Prime Wines): Many consumers have become quite conscious of alcohol levels in wine these days (and that’s also true of many writers, for that matter), and this 
is a very unusual New World wine in how restrained it is in terms of alcohol content. … Read more
Frederic Mabileau, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil (Loire Valley, France) “Les Rouillères” 2009
($20, Simon N Cellars): The Loire Valley is so well known for its vibrant whites that consumers often overlook the reds from this region. That’s a shame because when fully ripe, Cabernet Franc, the major red grape in the region, delivers a lovely balance of red fruit flavors and leafy notes. … Read more
Les Deux Rives, Corbières (Languedoc, France) 2008
($9, Pasternak Wine Imports): Corbières, one of the best known of the many appellations that comprise the Languedoc region in the south of France, is a good source of high value red wine. And this is one of them. A typical Mediterranean blend of Grenache (40%), Syrah (30%), Mourvèdre 20 (%), and Carignan, it has a lovely combination of delicate spice and succulent red fruit, almost wild strawberry-like, notes. … Read more
Domaines Baron Rothschild Lafite, Corbières (Languedoc, France) “Blason d’Aussiéres” 2008
($17, Pasternak Wine Imports): 
The usual suspects — Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan — come together to form a more muscular and sophisticated version of Les Deux Rives (also reviewed this week). Deeper and more concentrated, it conveys the similar attractive combination of spice and black fruit flavors. … Read more
A Simple Strategy for Buying Burgundy
Burgundy produces some of the world’s most exciting wines. Although many, such as those from Domaine Romanée Conti, Domaine Leroy, or Domaine Rousseau are priced in the stratosphere, affordable well-priced Burgundies do exist. But finding them can be like walking through a minefield.… Read more
Plantagenet, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Chardonnay 2008
($15, Old Bridge Cellars): Wines from Western Australia typically show more restraint compared to those from other parts of the country because the cooling influences of the Indian and Southern Oceans mean the grapes achieve slower, more balanced ripeness. This delectable Chardonnay supports that generalization with a lovely combination of toastiness and subtle creamy notes that sit atop a haunting flintiness. … Read more
Reviews: ITALY
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2010 ($24, Banfi Imports): 
Andrea Cecchi and his brother represent the fourth generation of the family making wine. They have four estates, one in Umbria, and three in their home base of Tuscany, including this one, Villa Cerna. … Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Siblings” 2009
($18, Old Bridge Cellars): This seamless blend of roughly two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon harnesses the best of both grapes. It has the bright herbal aspect of Sauvignon Blanc softened just a bit by the lanolin texture of Semillon. The Semillon rounds out the wine without obliterating the invigorating pungency of the Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Sauvion, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château du Cléray 2010
($15, W J Deutsch): Sur lie means the wine has been kept on the lees (dead yeast), which act as an anti-oxidant keeping the wine fresh and lively, until bottling. That may explain why the 2010 Château du Cléray is even snappier at this stage than the 2009 (previously reviewed). … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2010
($23): 
Cadaretta has adopted the Western Australia custom of using SBS on the label to indicate a Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blend. The Semillon (25%) in Cadaretta’s blend puts a glossy coating on the grassy herbal pungency of Sauvignon Blanc and adds body. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2007
($35, Moët Hennessey USA): 
Cloudy Bay thrust New Zealand onto the world’s wine map with their Sauvignon Blanc two decades ago. They’ve added Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to their portfolio and while neither will replace their Sauvignon Blanc as their standard bearer, this Pinot Noir shows that the Marlborough region is well suited for that varietal. … Read more
Plantagenet, Western Australia (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc ‘Omrah’ 2009
($15, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Founded in 1974, Plantagenet was the first winery in the Great Southern Region of Western Australia. They are well known for their stunning Rieslings, which develop beautifully with bottle age and are among Australia’s best. Less well-known is their second label, Omrah, which represents great value. … Read more
Domaine de la Perrière, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2009
($21, Pasternak Wine Imports): Guy Saget, one of the Loire’s best producers, has controlled this domaine for the past 15 years. The 2009, a great vintage in the Loire, is one of his best. With so much diluted Sancerre on the market, it’s a pleasure to find this one, full of chalky minerality. … Read more
Krug: How to be the Best
Although Olivier Krug, Krug’s House Director, and Maggie Henriquez, Krug’s President and CEO, both deny it, Krug is the best Champagne in the world. While Krug and Henriquez both agree that Krug is “unique,” they refuse to describe it as “the best.”… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Adelaide (South Australia) ‘Layers’ 2010
($17, Hess Collection): An unconventional blend of Semillon (37%), Muscat (20%), 
Gewürztraminer (20%), Pinot Gris (19%) and Chardonnay suggests that this wine was an afterthought—a way to use leftovers—not planned. Whatever the motivation, it’s an engaging blend that works. Flowery aromatics reinforce its lightness (11.5% stated alcohol) while a lovely lanolin-like texture, undoubtedly from the Semillon, contributes body. … Read more
Georges Duboeuf, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Chateau des Capitans 2010
($19, WJ Deutsch): Duboeuf, often dubbed the King of Beaujolais because he controls so much of the production of that region, was the first négociant to credit the individual grower by putting growers’ names, in addition to his own, on labels. … Read more
Two Princes, Nahe (Germany) Riesling 2010
($14, Valckenberg): Some German producers, responding to the criticism that their labels are too detailed and confusing, have simplified them. This label just tells us that it’s a Riesling from somewhere in the Nahe, a less well-known region that geographically lies just west of the Rheinhessen. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Indian Wells” 2009
($18): Chateau Ste. Michelle consistently turns out wines that deliver far more than the prices suggests. This harmonious wine marries red and black fruit flavors with intriguing subtle herbal, almost minty, notes. Not overdone, it speaks to you instead of screaming at you. … Read more
Schloss Saarstein, Saar (Germany) Riesling Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner Kabinett 2010
($26, Valckenberg): The vineyard, Schloss Saarstein, is located in the village of Serrig in the Saar Valley and is owned exclusively (a monopole) by Schloss Saarstein. Hence, there is confusion since the producer and the vineyard have the same name. However, let there be no confusion about the quality of the wine. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (Californiac) Cabernet Sauvignon “White Stone Vineyard” 2008
($40): The White Stone Vineyard is the name to give to a 10-acre select hillside portion of their 150-acre estate vineyard in San Martin. Bold, perhaps in part due to a little Malbec (5%) in the blend, this Cabernet focuses on power, but retains elegance.… Read more
Los Vascos, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2010
($11, Pasternak Wine Imports): Los Vascos knows how to deliver. Their 2008 Cabernet (previously reviewed) delivers more than the price suggests. And this Sauvignon Blanc is in the same category. It has the distinctive pungency and brightness of Sauvignon Blanc without off putting overly grassy notes.… Read more
Goldwater, Wairau Valley (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2010
($15, Pasternak Wine Imports): This wine has the expected electrifying zing we’ve come to expect from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. But it also delivers a flinty, almost smoky, quality that makes it stand apart. It has an expansive mouth-filling quality often lacking in wines at this price.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Vineyard 2010
($15): Chateau Ste. Michelle touts their single vineyard wines, such as this one, as distinctive wines from a single site. That’s surely the case with this Sauvignon Blanc. Layers of citrus notes, herbal nuances and green apple vivacity make this an unusually complex Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Graff Collection, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Graacher Himmelreich 2010
($17): The wine merchant and importer, Valckenberg acquired the Carl Graff estate in 1969 and sold off the vineyards, but kept the rights to the name, eventually dropping the Carl. Hence, this is a négociant wine and shows just how good they can be when the selection is rigorous. … Read more
Maximin Grünhäuser, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Spätlese Abtsberg 2010
($37): The Maximin Grünhaus estate, one of Germany’s finest, has been owned exclusively by the von Schubert family since 1882. As a monopole, the usual German style of nomenclature–village followed by vineyard name–is not required. It’s composed of two reasonably sized (35-45 acres) south facing vineyards, Abtsberg and Herrenberg and one tiny (2.5-acre) one, Bruderberg, on the slopes of the Ruwer River just before it joins the Mosel. … Read more
Weingut Johannishof, Johannisberg (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Kabinett ‘V’ 2010
($24, Valckenberg): Johannishof is one of the great producers in the Rheingau, where they own about 50 acres in prized vineyards, included Vogelsang. For unknown reasons they opt to call this wine V instead of putting the vineyard name on the label. … Read more
Clos La Chance, Central Coast (California) JoLi Estate Vineyard ‘Meritage Red Wine’ 2007
($50): Named after their grandchildren, Joseph and Lila, this is a gorgeous Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (59%), Merlot (27%), Petit Verdot (9%) and Malbec. Though each varietal adds character, it’s a seamless blend with no one component dominating. Juicy and succulent fruit flavors are interwoven with earthy mineral notes. … Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
($52): 
Jordan has been known for finesse-filled wines since their first release, the 1976 Cabernet Sauvignon, in 1980. Winemaker Rob Davis and owners Tom and Sally Jordan have never veered from that style despite the movement toward riper, more massive Cabernet by most of the California wine industry. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling 2010
($9): Chateau Ste. Michelle continues its streak of making terrific, well-priced Riesling. The 2010 has the classic Riesling nose of flowers and minerals that follows through onto the palate. Limey acidity balances a delicate fruitiness and gives this dry Riesling a peppy signature. … Read more
Von Kesselstatt, Piesport (Mosel, Germany) Riesling Kabinett Goldtropfschen 2010
($25, Valckenberg): It’s hard to miss with the wines from Von Kesselstatt, one of the leading producers in the Mosel. What’s amazing is how undervalued these wines remain. Goldtropfschen is one of, if not the most, acclaimed vineyards in Piesport, probably the Mosel’s most famous town. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot ‘Indian Wells’ 2009
($18): This Merlot conveys herbal, leafy nuances that offset the succulent black fruit flavors and gives the wine a more delicate and intriguing aspect. Polished and long, it’s far less of an overpowering fruit bomb than its 14.5 percent alcohol would suggest. … Read more
Alcohol levels can make a big difference
“I only had two glasses of wine.”
It’s not an unreasonable amount to drink with dinner, yet how much you feel from those two glasses can vary widely – whether you’re worried about a curbside Breathalyzer or just hoping you don’t feel the effects the next day.… Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz “St. Henri 2006
($65, FWE Imports): One of the reasons Penfolds is a great producer is that it turns out a wide spectrum of distinctive wines even within a single varietal. The St. Henri Shiraz is, as they call it, a counterpoint to Grange.… Read more
Domaine Fournier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2008
($38, David Milligan Selection): I know, why pay $38 for Sancerre when so many good ones go for less than $30? Simple, this one’s unique and worth every penny of it. Fournier is one of Sancerre’s star producers. His Cuvée Silex comes from a distinctive 5-acre parcel whose soil is mostly flint.… Read more
Sauvion, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château de Cléray 2009
($15, WJ Deutsch): Every time I taste a Muscadet of this quality I wonder why the category is under-appreciated and the wines so inexpensive. Sure, there are 
underachievers in Muscadet making vapid wine, but probably no more than in most regions.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Grand Cru Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2009
($150): The wines from Échézeaux, a large, 90-acre grand cru, are highly variable (like those from neighboring Clos de Vougeot). Although the producer is always important in selecting Burgundy, it’s doubly important when choosing Échézeaux. Jadot makes a great one, and it’s always one of their best wines.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Boucherottes 2009
($45, Kobrand): Jadot owns almost a third of this premier cru vineyard that lies in the southern part of Beaune, bordering Pommard. Though the 2009 red Burgundies are sensational across appellations, the wines from Beaune are especially engaging. It’s very floral and mineraly with sweet ripe dark fruit, plush tannins and great length.… Read more
Beaujolais Renaissance
Six centuries after Philippe the Bold exiled the “vile and noxious” Gamay grape from Burgundy in favor of the “elegant” Pinot Noir, Burgundians are once again embracing the grape in the wines of Beaujolais. The region has long been known primarily for Beaujolais Nouveau, a beverage closer to alcoholic grape juice than wine, but is now undergoing a dramatic change as Beaune-based négociants buy vineyards and identify unique parcels for separate bottlings.
… Read more Penfolds, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2008
($23, FWE Imports): Very different from a Barossa Shiraz, Penfolds’s Bin 128 Shiraz shows
the importance of location within Australia, a country with scores of different climates. Similar to their Barossa Shiraz, this one from Coonawarra comes exclusively from their grapes. … Read more
Domaine Fournier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Les Belles Vignes 2009
($25, David Milligan Selections): Sancerre is enormously popular, not only in Paris bistros, but around the world. And often with popularity comes dilution of quality, which, in the case of Sancerre, has led to many vapid wines that have zestiness but little else.… Read more
Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Premier Cru de Château” 2009
($15, Vineyard Brands): Muscadet, especially from the Sèvre-et-Maine subregion, remains an under appreciated source of bright and zesty unoaked wines. This one, from one of the area’s leading producers, comes from 50-year old vines, which helps explain its fascinating complexity. Mineraly, flinty even, it has uncommon (for Muscadet) depth and length. … Read more
Domaine Fournier, Ménétou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($20, David Milligan Selections): Ménétou-Salon is a small appellation just to the west of Sancerre that also requires use of Sauvignon Blanc for its white wines, which typically are a little softer and gentler than those of its more famous neighbor. … Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de Sainte Catherine 2007
($37, Vintus): Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France) 2007 ($37, Vintus): Baumard
is a genius with the Chenin Blanc grape, producing stellar dry wines–Savennières–and glorious sweet ones–Quarts des Chaumes and this single vineyard one from the Côteaux du Layon. The beauty of this wine is its racy acidity that enlivens it, keeps it fresh and balances the sweetness. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2009
($25, Cynthia Hurley): White wine from Chinon is rare because the soil and climate is far more conducive to Cabernet Franc than to Chenin Blanc. But it’s worth 
the search for this wine, not because of its rarity, but because of its unique character. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Baronnie Madeleine” 2008
($25, Cynthia Hurley): This light to mid-weight red, made entirely from Cabernet Franc, is a good choice when you need a red wine this summer. Named after the winemaker’s grandmother, it combines delicate leafy undertones, fresh cherry-like flavors and minerality. Silky tannins allow immediate enjoyment. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Emery” 2008
($45): 
WillaKenzie bottles several vineyard designated Pinot Noir each year. For some wineries, vineyard designation is simply a marketing tool. Not for WillaKenzie. Their single vineyard wines are distinctive and unique. Slightly more power and concentration sets WillaKenzie’s Emery Vineyard bottling apart from their Aliette bottling (previously reviewed). … Read more
Château Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2010
($16, Banfi Vintners): Riesling “Grand Barossa” 2010 ($16, Banfi Vintners): I’ve had so many fine Rieslings from Australia that I should not be surprised by another one. But this one surprised me, not because it was so good, but because of the origin of the grapes. … Read more
Emiliana, Rapel Valley (Chile) Syrah “Natura” 2009
($11, Banfi Vintners): Emiliana is dedicated to making wines from organically grown grapes (Natura and Novas labels) and biodynamic farming principles (Gê and Coyam labels). This Syrah highlights the plumy flavors the wine can deliver rather than the peppery notes characteristic of wines from cooler climes, such as the Northern Rhone. … Read more
Santa Ema, Maipo Valley (Chile) Merlot Reserve 2008
($10, TGIC Importers): Here’s a toasty, plush, big Merlot more appropriate to accompany a grilled steak than as an aperitif. Although there are subtle leafy notes, the focus is on juicy black fruit-like flavors and a dollop of sweet oak. At ten bucks, it’s a fine choice for drinking this summer with burgers or grilled skirt steak.… Read more