($14, Alamos USA): This Malbec falls into the category of a big red wine with soft tannins. The emphasis is on the ripe lush black fruit flavors. Easy enough to sip by itself because it’s so ripe, it’s a good choice for those seeking a fruity red to pair with mid-winter fare.… Read more
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Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($10, Alamos USA): Argentina has become the place to find solid wines that deliver more than 
the price suggests. And here’s another one of them. One of the finest ten dollar Cabernets I have tasted, it delivers ripe, yet not sweet, fruit surrounded by suave tannins.… Read more
Bodega Santa Cruz de Alpera, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Verdejo “Santa Cruz de Alpera” NV
($12, Votto Vines): This snappy wine has more ripeness than Verdejo from Rueda because of the warmer clime in Almansa. But that doesn’t stop it from being energetic and lively. Its freshness persists into the finish and amplifies its verve. It’s perfect with shellfish or simple broiled fish.… Read more
Maison des Terroirs Vivants, IGP Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay “La Marouette” 2012
($14, The Organic Wine Company): Maison des Terroirs Vivants is one of the leading producers of organic wines in the Languedoc. They have an uncanny ability to find and bottle pristine wines and sell them at extraordinary prices. This Chardonnay has an engaging note of pineapple without being tropical or overdone.… Read more
Maison des Terroirs Vivants, IGP Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Syrah “La Marouette” 2012
($15, The Organic Wine Company): An incredible value, this $15 Syrah manages to combine the attractive slightly beefy and the ripe plumy components that Syrah can deliver. It’s a masterful mix, especially at the price. Certainly bold enough for wintertime fare–or steaks on the grill (summer will eventually be here)–it’s not overdone or alcoholic.… Read more
Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedrich Gräfenberg (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Auslese 2009
($85, Loosen Bros USA): This is a marvelous dessert wine. It’s sweet, but certainly not sugary or cloying. What amazes is the perfect, I mean perfect, balance of apricot skin tinged sweetness and riveting acidity. It’s so invigorating you hardly realize it’s sweet.… Read more
Isabel Mondavi, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir Estate 2009
($30): The Michael Mondavi Family Estate, who produces this wine, was founded after the family lost control of the Robert Mondavi winery. Though Michael, one of the sons of legendary winemaker Robert (and an extraordinarily talented winemaker in his own right), is involved in a series of projects, such as the wines under the Isabel Mondavi label, his son Rob Jr.… Read more
Quinta do Casal Branco, Tejo (Portugal) 2009
($8, J. Oliveira Selections): Many guests, foolishly, are hesitant to bring wine to a so-called “expert.” Well, fortunately, I have a friend who’s been learning about wine for a year or so who suggested I try this wine at dinner one night.… Read more
Bedell, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Merlot 2009
($30): Good choice, Mr. President. Selected to be served at the celebration of the President’s inauguration, this Merlot shows how far the wines from Long Island have come. It fits the Long Island wine style of falling between the heavier and riper ones from California and the more reticent ones coming from Bordeaux.… Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Merlot 2009
($30): This fleshy, supple Merlot packs plenty of ripe black fruit notes covered with suave tannins. With air, attractive leafy or earthy notes peak out and add complexity. Its refinement makes it a good choice for a rib roast.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013… Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
($38): This lovely Cabernet marries ripe fruit and intriguing savory nuances buttressed by firm, yet not aggressive, tannins. What impresses is its restraint–not in flavor or in enjoyment–but in ripeness. As a result, a plethora of other flavors emerge as it sits in the glass.… Read more
Veramonte, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir “Ritual” 2010
($20, Huneeus Vintners): This collaborative effort by two giants, Chilean icon Agustin Hunees, and California star, Paul Hobbs, will appeal to those who like power in their Pinot Noir. Ripe black fruit notes a hint of seductive toasty oak come together in this rich full-blown wine.… Read more
Castilla-La Mancha: The Place for Value
Everyone is looking for value in wine, which I define as a wine that delivers more than the price suggests. Using that definition value can be found in Bordeaux where an $80 wine wows you the way a $120 wine does.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay 2011
($15): Chateau Ste. Michelle knows its goals and achieves them on a regular basis. When they want to make a top of the line, head spinning wine, they do. When they set their sites on a more modest everyday type of wine, such as this Chardonnay, they also succeed admirably.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Waussie” 2011
($22): 
Chateau Ste. Michelle, a world leader for Riesling, has done it again with this distinctive one. Super-talented Australian winemaker, Wendy Stuckey, calls it “Waussie” (Washington + Australia) Riesling because of its crisp Aussie style. I call it terrific. Citrus-infused and dry (appropriately indicated on the back label with the International Riesling Foundations [IRF] scale), its riveting acidity may overwhelm you if you sip as an aperitif.… Read more
Martin Códax, Rias Baixis (Spain) Albariño 2011
($15): With a slightly softer profile than usual for the category, this wine is a good introduction to Rias Baixis and the Albariño grape. The wine still conveys the bite that makes that grape so appealing, but it’s more like a puppy’s nip.… Read more
Martin Códax, Rioja (Spain) Tempranillo “Ergo” 2010
($14, Martin Códax USA): With bright dark cherry-like fruitiness and vanilla-spiced oak flavors, this value-packed wine is a more modern interpretation of Rioja. Nicely balanced, vibrant acidity keeps it fresh. It’s a good everyday type of wine.
87 Michael Apstein Jan 1, 2013… Read more
Chateau Bousquette, Saint-Chinian (France) “Prestige” 2009
($27, The Organic Wine Company): 
The team at Chateau Bousquette has seamlessly integrated Syrah and Grenache to produce a stellar wine that delivers both power and elegance. Red fruit and herbal notes are harmoniously intertwined with earthy mineral-like elements in this complex, layered beauty.… Read more
Chateau Veronique, Coteaux du Languedoc (France) 2008
($16, The Organic Wine Company): The Languedoc is finally getting its act together and transforming itself from the so-called wine lake to a place to find excellent wines. The benefit for consumers is that the prices have yet to catch up to the quality of the wines.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Pinot Gris 2011
($15): 
Although Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are the same grape, the wines under those labels tend to be different with Pinot Gris having more ripeness and presence on the palate than the lighter styled Pinot Grigio. Chateau Ste. Michelle has hit a bull’s eye with their Pinot Gris.… Read more
Château Nicot, Bordeaux (France) 2009
($10, Wine Brokers International): It is ironic that, at the same time Bordeaux is criticized for becoming a luxury commodity, it is producing terrific bargain wines like this one. Attractive herbal elements harmonize with plenty of dark fruit flavors. A subtle, fleeting bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal.… Read more
Giraudon, Bourgogne Chitry (Burgundy, France) “Cépage Pinot Noir” 2010
($20, Wine Traditions Ltd.): Most wines from this little known appellation between Chablis and Auxerre, are simply labeled Bourgogne Rouge because virtually no one has heard of Chitry. Giraudon reminds us–with the moniker Cépage Pinot Noir–that this wine is made entirely from Pinot Noir because regulations allow a small amount of César, an obscure grape, in the blend.… Read more
Domaine du Haut Bourg, Côtes de Grandlieu (Loire Valley, France) Muscadet 2011
($11, Polaner Selections): 
A small appellation between a lake and the Loire River, Côtes de Grandlieu is a much smaller and less well known subregion of Muscadet compared to Sèvre et Maine. Its location between two bodies of water entails a slightly warmer climate and explains why the wines tend to be just a touch riper than most Muscadet.… Read more
Domaine du Haut Bourg, Côtes de Grandlieu (Loire Valley, France) Muscadet “Origine” 2002
($16, Polaner Selections): Who says Muscadet doesn’t develop with age? This one is fresh, mineraly and mature all at the same time. Savory notes peek through, adding even more surprise and complexity. Despite all this, it retains the quintessential spark and vivacity of Muscadet.… Read more
Pommery, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Brut 2004
($70): Pommery has succeeded brilliantly with their 2004. A blend of wines made from grapes grown only in Grand Cru villages, this mid-weight Champagne conveys extraordinary persistence and polish. Layers of subtle toastiness and creaminess make each sip a new discovery.… Read more
Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV
($60, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors): A delicate salmon pink color catches your eye and then the captivating wild strawberry-like flavors grab your attention. This is a serious Rosé, dry, with layers of flavors and great length. It’s a great choice as a stand-alone aperitif and vigorous enough to bring to the table to accompany delicately smoked salmon.… Read more
Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV
($50, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors): Founded in 1834, this family firm is, as seems to be the tradition in Champagne, run currently by a woman, Evelyne Roques-Boizel. A Pinot Noir dominant (55%) blend, Boizel’s non-vintage bottling offers a ying/yang combination of earthy intensity and freshness.… Read more
Perrier Jouët, Champagne (France) “Belle Époque” Brut 2004
($135, Pernod-Ricard): The “flower bottle,” as this Champagne is affectionately called, is Perrier Jouët’s prestige bottling. Don’t be fooled by its lighter style. The gorgeous nose predicts greatness and you’re not disappointed. Refined and persistent, its class and stature sneaks up on you.… Read more
Henriot, Champagne (France) Brut 2005
($78, Henriot, USA): Henriot is one of the most under-rated of the major Champagne producers. Their prestige bottling, Les Enchanteleurs, is consistently a stunning wine. And their vintage bottling never disappoints. This 2005 has the ripeness of the vintage offset by uplifting, not aggressive, acidity.… Read more
Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs, Brut 2002
($80, Vineyard Brands): It’s no wonder that Delamotte makes a fabulous Blanc de Blancs Champagne since they are located in — and own vineyards in — Mesnil sur Oger, a village in the Côtes des Blancs that has grand cru status because of its exceptional Chardonnay.… Read more
Thank you, Jacques Lardière
Pierre-Henry Gagey, President of Maison Louis Jadot, set the tone for a dinner honoring the retiring legend Jacques Lardière with the invitation he sent months in advance. The invitation noted that the dinner was to thank Lardière for all he had done for “Burgundy and Maison Jadot.”… Read more
Alex Gambal, Grand Cru Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2009
($175, Schneiders of Capital Hill): The 2009 vintage produced excellent red Burgundies. This is one of them. Though quite ripe, reflective of the warmth of the vintage, it has not lost its focus or identity. This Clos Vougeot captures the minerality and floral aspect of that Grand Cru vineyard and has plenty of structure beneath the ripeness and to assure a long life.… Read more
Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2010
($75, Jeanne Marie de Champs): This vineyard surrounds the Château de la Maltroye and is owned solely by them, somewhat of a rarity in Burgundy since most vineyards have been divided and subdivided among multiple owners over the centuries. Full disclosure: I’m not a fan of red wine from Chassagne-Montrachet because they can be green and rustic.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($11): With clean, bright, grapefruit-like freshness, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s is a lovely expression of Sauvignon Blanc. It’s refreshing and zesty without being aggressive. It would be a good match for shellfish or simply grilled fish. It’s a great value. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2012… Read more
Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut 2002
($70, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors): 2002 is a great year for Champagne. And fortunately for us consumers, a few, like this one, are still on the market. It’s earthy and intense, in a very good way, with cutting acidity that keeps it fresh and lively. … Read more
Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2005
($96, Vintage ’59 Imports): I don’t know how I have managed to overlook Lilbert’s Champagnes over the years. I tasted their whole range at a tasting sponsored by the CIVC, the trade group that represents Champagne producers, that included 
hundreds of Champagnes from scores of producers. … Read more
Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut 2002
($99, Terlato): I don’t know how Bollinger manages to combine power and grace so successfully in all their Champagnes. The 2002 is especially noteworthy for this combination of intensity and elegance without being overdone. The biscuit-like flavors seem to persist forever. … Read more
Maison J. J. Vincent, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($12, Frederick Wildman & Sons): J. J. Vincent is best known for their consistently excellent Pouilly Fuissé from their domaine, the Chateau de Fuissé. This Beaujolais-Villages, however, comes from the négociant side of their company, from vines located within the village of Juliénas, but not within that cru’s appellation. … Read more
Cremant d’Alsace pops with success
Cremant d’Alsace is France’s go-to sparkling wine. The French consume more of it at home than sparkling wine from any other wine area than Champagne, according to the Conseil Interprofessionnel Vins d’Alsace, Alsace vintners’ trade association.… Read more
Ployez-Jacquemart, Champagne (France) Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs 2002
($65, David Boller Wines): Lacy and precise, the suaveness of a Blanc de Blancs is apparent. Its cutting crispness makes a lovely counterpoint to its creaminess. Its grandeur is manifest by elegance, not power, and great length. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012… Read more
Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut 2002
($50, Laurent-Perrier USA): The 2002 Champagnes are simply gorgeous and fortunately, there are a 
few, like this one, still in market. Laurent -Perrier is partial to Chardonnay in their blends and it shows in this gorgeous wine. All elegance and lightness, it has a gentle, but long, persistence.… Read more
Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) “Cuvée de Moines” Brut 2002
($70, Winesellers, Ltd): Bruno Paillard recently acquired Besserat de Bellefon and his hand is apparent is the quality of this wine. A blend of Chardonnay (54%), Pinot Noir (15%) and Pinot Meunier, it combines a mouth filling creaminess, elegance and power. … Read more
Chablis: The World’s Best White Wine for Food
That’s a bold claim, but I think it holds up to scrutiny. The only other contender would be Champagne, but once one takes price into account, the medal goes to Chablis because these wines are so well-priced. Albariño from Rias Baixas, a region tucked away in Galicia in Spain’s northwest, is in the running, except so little is made and distributed that it’s not a reasonable choice. … Read more
Louis Métaireau, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Carte Noire” 2010
($16, Martine Wines): Métaireau is one of Muscadet’s best and most consistent producers. And this wine reflects his considerable talents. With an unusual ripeness for Muscadet, it still delivers a bracing Granny Smith apple-like vibrancy typical of the appellation. Mineraly and long, it shows that Muscadet can produce wines with considerable complexity. … Read more
Hecht et Bannier, Languedoc (France) 2011
($12, Frederick Wildman): The vast majority of wines from the Languedoc are red. But Hecht et Bannier has managed to find growers who make fresh and lively whites. A blend of Piquepoul (80%), which provides invigorating freshness, and Roussanne, which adds body, it’s a pleasant surprise, coming from this warm part of France. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Chénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($19, Frederick Wildman): I love the range of Potel-Aviron’s 2009 Beaujolais. They are ripe and precise across the board. This Chénas, perhaps the least well-known Beaujolais cru, has plenty of verve to balance the explosive fruit. Plumy undertones and a hint of earthiness come together beautifully. … Read more
Hecht et Bannier, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 2009
($18, Frederick Wildman): 
A smaller appellation within the greater Languedoc, Minervois has the potential to produce wines with more finesse. And this one does. Still slightly tarry with spice, even a hint of licorice, it’s more focused on the pepper and spice rather than solely the fruit notes. … Read more
Hecht et Bannier, Languedoc (France) 2010
($12, Frederick Wildman): Hecht et Bannier, a small high-quality négociant, is something of a rarity in this part of France. Founded only about 10 years ago, they make wines from many of the diverse appellations within the larger Languedoc area. If you ever wanted to know the differences among, say, Minervois, Côtes du Roussillon Villages and Faugères, this is the place to start because the winemaking is the same. … Read more
Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Jalets” 2009
($26, Frederick Wildman): Jaboulet, one the great names of the Rhône, has been through some tumultuous times lately. Fortunately, they have weathered the storms, turned things around, and are now back on track. And if anyone needed any proof, I suggest tasting Jaboulet’s two wonderful Crozes-Hermitage. … Read more
Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Thalabert” 2009
($54, Frederick Wildman): 
Old vines, also exclusively from Jaboulet’s holding, make this a more complex wine. Judicious oak aging amplifies the palate of flavor. Less immediately overt because of a more tannic structure, it reveals itself slowly, especially in the finish. … Read more