($50): 
As the 2015 red Burgundies begin to hit retailers’ shelves, they confirm my initial enthusiasm for this vintage. Take, for example, this Volnay, a village wine from one of Burgundy’s top négociants. Floral and lacey, it conveys the quintessential Burgundy characteristic that I call “flavor without weight.” … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Arnaldo-Caprai, Colli Martani DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Grecante” 2016
($18, Wilson Daniels): 
Historically, white wines from Umbria, made from the Grechetto grape, were called Greco, Grechetto or Grecante. Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the region’s leading producers, opted from Grecante, but the grape name still appears on the label as well. This white combines freshness with an intriguing subtle nuttiness. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso DOC (Umbria, Italy) 2014
($20, Wilson Daniels): 
The major problem facing growers of Sagrantino di Montefalco, a prestigious DOCG in Umbria, is how to make the wine more approachable when young — Sagrantino has ferocious tannins — without eviscerating it. Enter the Montefalco Rosso DOC, which gives the consumer a chance get a hint of what the region has to offer. … Read more
Pommery, Champagne (France) “Apanage” Rosé Brut NV
($72): 
This is a show-stopper of a Rosé. With eyes closed, it has the power and a hint of tannin — like the texture of peach-skin — that would make you think you’re drinking red wine. Full-bodied, but elegant and suave, it’s a great as an aperitif, but also marvelous with food. … Read more
Pommery, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Louise” Brut 2004
($100): 
Cuvée Louise is Pommery’s top of the line Champagne. Made from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from three Grand Cru villages, the 2004 is stunning, combining power and elegance. The elegance comes from the Chardonnay and persists throughout the extraordinary finish. … Read more
Gloria Ferrer, Sonoma County (California) “Anniversary Cuvée” 2010
($40): This is a gorgeous sparkling wine from one of California leading sparkling wine producers. A blend of roughly 2/3rds Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, it delivers a delicately fruity and creamy mixture that enlivens the palate. An attractive hint of yeastiness, from 5 and 1/2 years on the lees adds complexity without weightiness. … Read more
Tenuta Sette Cieli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Scipio” 2010
($92, Wilson Daniels): It’s not surprising to see more estates popping up in Bolgheri, the area of the Tuscan coast that’s home to super star such as, Sassicaia and Ornellaia. Moreover, it stands to reason that there’s potential for other producers to find the correct microclimates for their interpretation of wines made from the Bordeaux varieties. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($60, Kobrand): Tenute Silvio Nardi produces classically framed Brunello that reveal their substantial charms slowly. They have vineyards both in the northwest and southeast section of the DOCG zone, which allows them to capture the virtues of each of those zones by using grapes from both of them for this wine. … Read more
Boizel, Champagne (France) 2007
($81, Palm Bay Imports): A blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (40%) and Pinot Meunier, Boizel’s 2007 Champagne combines power and elegance. The wonderful spine of acidity, reflective of the vintage, balances the wine’s power perfectly. The impeccable balance of concentration and grace allows you to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitif or with food.… Read more
Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut Blanc de Blancs NV
($66, Palm Bay Imports): Blanc de Blancs on a Champagne label, unlike on the label of a still wine, actually means something very specific — the wine was made using only Chardonnay. All Blanc de Blancs are expensive because Chardonnay is in great demand in the Champagne region and most are vintage dated, which adds to the price. … Read more
Migration, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2014
($68): The orientation of the Santa Maria Valley is unusual in California because in runs East-West rather than the usual North-South. As such, the vineyards there are exposed directly to the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. That climatic difference explains the difference in character between Santa Maria-grown Pinot Noir and those from the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch 2015
($40): The most striking aspect of this Pinot Noir is its difference from Sonoma Loeb’s Bateman Ranch bottling. Why extol the differences? Because Pinot Noir is the best red grape for expressing the vineyard and these two wines — Dutton Ranch and Bateman Ranch — do just that. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Bateman Ranch 2015
($60): Sonoma-Loeb’s Bateman Ranch Pinot Noir emphasizes the mineral-like flavors as opposed to the fruit flavors of their Dutton Ranch bottling. It’s firmer than the Dutton Ranch bottling, but like its brother, it has impeccable balance and suave tannins. Is one “better” than the other? … Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($16, Vintus): 
If there is a more enjoyable red wine at this price, I’d like to know about it. Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône is always an excellent value and the 2012 is no exception. It’s riper and a touch fruitier than the racier 2013, which is also on the market. … Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2013
($16, Vintus): 
Collectors and conoisseurs know of Guigla’s “La La’s”, as they are called — his tiny production, single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque — that sell for hundreds of dollars upon release. … Read more
Kendall Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Jackson Estate, Camelot Highlands 2015
($35): 
This is an easy wine to recommend for its creamy seductive texture. Some will complain it’s heavy or overdone, but those who like a rich Chardonnay with a hint of butter will embrace it. It does double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or to accompany a roast chicken with a creamy mushroom sauce.… Read more
La Rioja Alta, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” 2008
($32): 
Where else but Spain, and specifically Rioja, do you find a nine year old wine as the current release? And look at the price. Not to mention that La Rioja Alta is one of the best producers in Rioja. Here’s a chance for consumers to taste the magical transformation of youthful fruitiness in a wine to intriguing and hard to define non-fruit flavors of leather and earth.… Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($14): Although the Marlborough region of New Zealand put Sauvignon Blanc on the map, other regions fashion distinctive and equally enjoyable versions. Take this one from North Canterbury, a region on New Zealand’s east coast in the mid-portion of the South Island. … Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Chardonnay 2015
($14): The name of the winery aptly describes the wine: Beautiful. Crisp and lemony, it carries its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly. This stylish edgy Chardonnay has a green apple-like vivacity to support its mid-weight body. It works as a stand-alone aperitif or a fitting accompaniment to simply grilled fish.… Read more
Grignano, Chianti Rùfina (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($18, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Chianti Rùfina, the smallest of the eight subzones of Chianti, a vast area in the middle of Tuscany, accounts for only about three percent of the region’s production. By comparison, Chianti Classico, the best known of the subzones and the area located in the hills between Florence and Siena, produces ten times the amount of wine. … Read more
Ruffino, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva Ducale” 2012
($25): 
Ruffino is one of the leading names in Chianti Classico, producing a range of traditionally styled wines at reasonable prices. Their top one, Riserva Ducale Oro (with a gold label), made only in the best vintages has an extraordinary ability to develop amazing complexity with bottle age.… Read more
Viticcio, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($18): 
This is a masterful Chianti Classico that walks the line between the so-called “modern” and “traditional” styles. A hint of Merlot (2%) in the blend with Sangiovese (98%) adds fleshiness without being overt. The engaging herbal earthy notes still dominate. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay Estate 2015
($32): 
Balance. That’s why this wine is so enjoyable. And enjoyable, not just for a sip, but also throughout the meal. There’s the lush ripeness and power you’d expect from Napa Valley Chardonnay, but the cooling influences of the San Pablo Bay on the Carneros region brings out a lovely lemony counterpoint and vivacity.… Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2015
($18): 
The winery’s name describes its 2015 Pinot Gris — beautiful. It delivers a hint of pear-like spice and textural sensation buttressed by an enlivening structure. It has real depth and length. Not a watery Pinot Grigio or a heavy Pinot Gris, it delivers freshness and body. … Read more
Vietti, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Tre Vigne” 2015
($17, Dalla Terra Direct): 
Spoiler alert. This wine is a fantastic bargain for current consumption, even in the summer. For starters, Vietti is one of the superstar producers in Piedmont. Their Barolos are legendary, with comparable pricing. Vietti’s Barberas are equally enjoyable, albeit in an entirely different manner. … Read more
Koenig Vineyards, Snake River Valley (Idaho) Late Harvest Riesling , Botrytis — Single Berry Select 2014
($30): 
First, a little geography for those, like myself, who are unfamiliar with Idaho viticulture. Koenig Vineyards, founded in 1995 by Greg Koenig and his family, is located just west of Boise in central Idaho near the Oregon border. Their website informs us that they are in the Sunny Slope District of the Snake River Valley. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2015
($26): 
Matanzas Creek has always been a star producer of Chardonnay. They continue their reputation with this one. They manage to deliver satisfying concentration without wandering into the “in your face” character. Restrained, but not silent, this Chardonnay speaks to you without shouting. … Read more
Cambria Estate, Santa Maria Valley (California) Chardonnay “Clone 4” 2015
($30): Santa Maria Valley, though located in Southern California, actually has some very cool areas because the valley runs East-West instead of the more usual North-South orientation. As such, it draws cool air from the Pacific Ocean. Indeed, growers determine what to plant where by assessing how much heat is needed to ripen a particular variety — Chardonnay and Pinot Noir favor western sites while Cabernet Sauvignon needs the heat of more inland — eastern — plots. … Read more
Whitehaven, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($20): Whitehaven has fashioned a slightly more restrained style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It’s still clean and fresh, with an attractively pungent bite, but, thankfully, does not shake you with electrifying verve. In a word, they’ve achieved a lovely combination of fresh herbal notes and lime-like acidity. … Read more
Fattoria Viticcio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Greppico” 2015
($12): Fattoria Viticcio is best known for their lovely Chianti Classico and their Super Tuscan, Greppicaia, from Bolgheri. Add this satisfying Vermentino to the list. Fresh and lively, there’s a mouth-watering salinity to it that screams for this summer’s seafood. It has surprising — for Vermentino — density and alluring hint of bitterness in the finish.… Read more
Bricco dei Guazzi, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Gavi di Gavi 2015
($14, Montcalm Wine Importers): Although consumers mostly identify Piedmont with its noble red wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, the region produces a superb array of whites, such as Gavi, which are opened with far less of a drum roll. For the Gavi di Gavi designation, all of the grapes must come exclusively from the town of Gavi, one of the 14 communes — and certainly one of the two or three best — that comprise the DOCG zone.… Read more
Cantine Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” 2016
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
I have extolled the virtues of Cantine Lunae Bosoni in the past, particularly their Vermentini. There’s no reason to stop now: Their 2016 “Etichetta Grigia” (or Gray Label) Vermentino is an exciting wine. (They also produce a more expensive one, Etichetta Nero, a.k.a.… Read more
Medici Ermete, Colli Scandiano e Canossa DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Vino Frizzante Secco “Daphne” 2016
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This is labeled Vino Frizzante Secco, which means slightly bubbly and dry. But it’s not really dry. It is aromatic, reminiscent of Moscato, but with more weight. Great acidity keeps it fresh and lively, so it doesn’t come across as cloying despite the light sweetness. … Read more
Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Italy) “Ben Ryè” 2015
($35): Baldo Palermo, a representative of Donnafugata, described the island of Pantelleria as, “A volcanic rock jutting from the sea,” where the major activity is “listening to the wind.” Hence it’s appropriate that this wine is called Ben Ryè, which means son of the wind. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “i Quercioli” NV
($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lambrusco is making a dramatic comeback, judging from restaurants in New York City and elsewhere. Diligence and persistence by producers such as Medici Ermete has shown the world the joys of Lambrusco. An equal blend of Lambrusco Marani and Lambrusco Salamino, i Quercioli is a faintly fizzy, dark, almost purple, red wine with a delicate sweetness and gripping acidity. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “Concerto” 2016
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Medici Ermete takes Lambrusco seriously, and it shows with the quality of their wines. This one, named Concerto, is the first single vineyard Lambrusco produced. It’s made entirely from Lambrusco Salamino grown on their Rampata estate. … Read more
Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Sarmassa 2012
($65, Frederick Wildman & Sons): 
Sarmassa is a well-regarded cru located in the village of Barolo itself, an area where the wines are allegedly more delicate, relatively speaking (this is Barolo, after all) compared to those from Serralunga d’Alba or Montforte d’Alba. … Read more
Arínzano, Pago del Arínzano (Spain) “Hacienda di Arínzano” 2011
($19, Stoli Group USA): The Vinos de Pago category sits at the pinnacle of Spain’s official wine hierarchy. A Pago is basically a single estate that has its on Denominacion Oregin. Arínzano was northern Spain’s first estate to be awarded Vinos de Pago status. … Read more
Nino Franco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto della Riva di San Floriano 2016
($26): 
Prosecco has become ubiquitous, which, of course, has made it a marketing challenge for the top producers, such as Nino Franco. Why should a consumer pay $26 for Prosecco when plenty sell for less than half that? For this one, the answer is easy: It’s a far, far superior wine. … Read more
Gulfi, Sicilia Rosso IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Nero Bufaleffj” 2011
($45): 
Gulfi, the first estate in Sicily to give focus on site specificity to Nero d’Avola, continues to making stunning examples of wine from that grape. This one, from their Bufaleffj vineyard, is eye-opening for its balance and complexity, delivering a ying/yang of black fruit and savory flavors offset perfectly by a hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Cantina Mascarello Bartolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2012
($140, The Rare Wine Company): Although single vineyard bottlings are all the rage in Barolo and elsewhere, Maria Teresa Mascarello continues her father’s time-honored philosophy that Barolo is best when it’s a blend of vineyards. Mascarello’s Barolo is a blend of grapes from four vineyards they own, three in the village of Barolo itself, Rué, Cannubi, St.… Read more
Tiberio, Colline Pescaresi IGP (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2016
($21, The Sorting Table): 
Pecorino, the wine, not the cheese, is currently “hot,” which is surprising considering it was practically extinct as a grape variety as recently as two decades ago. Now there are probably 60 producers on the bandwagon. Although I’ve not sampled them all, it’s hard to imagine finding one better than Tiberio’s. … Read more
Cadaretta, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Southwind Vineyard 2014
($75): 
This single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — which does contain 5 percent each of Malbec and Petit Verdot — is considerably more powerful and youthful than Cadaretta’s “Springboard” bottling. At this stage, it’s quite closed with a combination of deep black fruit and mineral-like flavors peeking out. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Springboard” 2014
($50): 
Cadaretta’s website describes Springboard as their “reserve-quality Bordeaux-varietal blend made from the top barrels of the vintage.” Despite the large proportion of heavy hitting Bordeaux varieties — Malbec and Petit Verdot comprise almost 1/5th of the blend — the wine does not hit you over the head. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Yountville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon State Ranch 2014
($110): Distinctly different from Nickel & Nickel’s other single vineyard Cabernet bottlings, the one from State Ranch appears far more youthful at this stage with its tannic structure showing immediately. It has similar black fruit mixed with nuances of black olives and other savory notes, finishing with a beautiful bit of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Decoy, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($25): 
After extolling the virtues of a bevy of $100+ Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s time to return to earth. Ironically, under Duckhorn’s Decoy label, this wine is the real thing. It clearly demonstrates that you needn’t spend triple digits to find satisfying wine with real character. … Read more
MacRostie Winery and Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Wildcat Mountain” 2014
($56): 
The Sonoma Coast is the latest “hot” — more accurate to say, cool — place for Pinot Noir because of the dramatically cooler climate that its proximity to the Pacific Ocean offers. Less bold than many, MacRostie’s Wildcat Mountain Pinot Noir still delivers ripe red fruit-like flavors accented with spice. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Martin Stelling Vineyard 2014
($160): 
Nickel & Nickel’s Cabernet from the Martin Stelling vineyard is fascinatingly different from the one from the John C. Sullenger Vineyard. It conveys dark fruit with more minerals, bordering on a tarry element, rather than the floweriness of the Sullenger. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon John C. Sullenger Vineyard 2014
($110): 
Nickel & Nickel and Far Niente overlap in ownership and philosophy, so it’s not surprising that they overlap in making spectacular wines. Nickel & Nickel focuses on making distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines from different vineyards in Napa Valley. Although their entire line-up is excellent, what is really impressive is how different the wines are despite similar wine making. … Read more
Far Niente, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($160): 
In a word, gorgeous. Ok, two words: Gorgeous and stunning. Sure it’s powerful. But for all its power, it has amazing elegance and gracefulness, which is why it’s so stunning and gorgeous. It has everything you’d want in Napa Valley Cabernet — dark fruit flavors, a hint of savory notes, plush tannins and a seemingly never ending finish. … Read more