($95, Louis Latour USA): Corton is the one Grand Cru for red wine in the Côte de Beaune. A variety of vineyard names, such as Grèves or Clos du Roi, can be affixed after the name Corton. Grancey, however, is not one of those names. … Read more
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Felton Road, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Block 5” 2008
($72, Wilson Daniels): Central Otago, in the southern part of New Zealand’s South Island, is a name to remember for high quality complex Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noirs from here, while stylistically distinct from Burgundy, still have to potential to rival their French counterparts. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Aliette” 2008
($48): WillaKenzie Estate, one of Oregon’s leading Pinot Noir producers, has several single vineyard bottlings, all of which are distinct in character. The Aliette delivers far more complexity without additional weight compared to their very good multi-vineyard blend, labeled Pierre Léon. … Read more
Domaine de la Pepière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2009
($13, Louis Dressner): Muscadet is one of those regions whose good wines are terribly under-priced for the enjoyment they deliver. The character-filled wines, like this one from the subregion of Sèvre-et-Maine, suffer from the reputation of many that are vapid and hollow. … Read more
Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) “Grand Classique” 2008
($20, The Hess Collection): 
A plush Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Malbec (16%), Merlot (14%), Petit Verdot (13%) and Cabernet Franc, Glen Carlou’s Grand Classique is rich without being overdone. Bright cherry-like acidity keeps it fresh and lively. Smoky, herbal nuances complement the ripe flavors. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2009
($83, Louis Latour USA): This is a great wine. But that’s what you’d expect from a fabulous vintage, a superb locale (you think the king gets the second best plot in Corton?) and a conscientious and talented producer. Although Latour is one of the region’s most prominent négociants, this wine comes exclusively from estate-owned plots they purchased over 100 years ago. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Coddington” 2008
($45, Wilson Daniels): I’ve not tasted all the Chardonnays produced in New Zealand, so it would not be credible for me to claim that Kumeu River’s are the best. But having tasted them regularly over the years, they must be on a short list for that accolade. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Hunting Hill” 2007
($45, Wilson Daniels): Kumeu River is located on New Zealand’s North Island well north (which means warmer in the Southern Hemisphere) of Marlborough or Central Otago, two of the countries more well-known sites for top-notch wine on the South Island. Nonetheless, its proximity to the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean (no more than 15 miles) means it’s a cool site. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Maté’s Vineyard” 2008
($48, Wilson Daniels): Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay, the flagship Chardonnay of the estate, is
named for Maté Brajkovich, who founded the winery along with his parents in 1944. In 1990, Maté replanted the original vineyard he and his parents purchased with Chardonnay. … Read more
Château Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Noble Barren” 2008
($50, Banfi Vintners): This is Château Tanunda’s top-of-the-line Shiraz. Although slightly “bigger” than their regular bottling, its grandeur and appeal comes from more complexity, not more power or extract. It’s an exciting Barossa Shiraz because along with the expected intensity comes layers of spice and even a subtle touch of chocolaty notes. … Read more
Location, Location, Location: Port’s No Different
In all the great wine producing areas of the world it is an article of faith that where the grapes grow determines the style and quality of the wine. However, when we think of Port, we tend to forget this fundamental notion.… Read more
Trivento, Mendoza (Argentina) Torrontés 2010
($11, Banfi Vintners): Aromatic and airy, Trivento’s Torrontés is bottled springtime. Adequate acidity keeps it fresh. Have a glass as an aperitif and then take the bottle to the table to match with spicy dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Jun 28, 2011… Read more
Château Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Grand Barossa” 2008
($18, Banfi Vintners): This classic Barossa Shiraz shows why the region is justifiably well-known for the variety. Big and brawny, but not overdone or flamboyant, it packs plenty of power, spice and even some chocolaty elements. It’s refreshing to taste a Shiraz that has complexity and not just alcohol and extract. … Read more
Terrunyo, Puemo (Cachapoal Valley, Chile) Syrah Rucahue Vineyard Block 34 2006
($38, Banfi Vintners): 
Terrunyo is a label Concha y Toro uses for its upscale wines whose distinct character they believe is due to the precise locale of the vineyard. Hence, the very specific coordinates–Block 34 of the Rucahue Vineyard, which itself is located in the Peumo subregion of Chile’s Cachapoal Valle–appear on the label. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Pierre Léon” 2008
($35): WillaKenzie is one of Oregon’s great Pinot Noir producers. This one, Pierre Léon, is blended from grapes from all of their vineyards and gives an insight to their finesse-filled style. Delicate more than overpowering, this mid-weight, elegant Pinot Noir delivers fresh red fruit–raspberry-like flavors mixed with leafy nuances.… Read more
Emiliana, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Carmenère “Natura” 2010
($11, Banfi Vintners): I never know whether it’s the organically grown grapes or the extra attention the winegrower must give to the vineyard when farming organically that contributes to the quality of an organic wine. Not that it matters. Emiliana has brought it all together very nicely with this wine.… Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Reserve 2008
($34): 
Ponzi is one the leaders in Oregon Pinot Noir. Their Reserve bottling is consistently top-notch because they make only about 1,500 12-bottle cases of it. The lesser quality fruit goes into their two lower tiers of Pinot Noir. This Reserve has an exciting combination delicate fresh red fruits and leafy savory notes. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Village” 2007
($22, Wilson-Daniels): Granted, I’ve not tasted every New Zealand Chardonnay, but I’ve yet to find a consistently better Chardonnay producer than Kumeu River.
Kumeu River bottles an array of Chardonnay ranging from this “entry level” to several single vineyards, each of which reflects their unique site. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Estate” 2007
($36, Wilson-Daniels): 
The Estate Chardonnay comes entirely from this producer’s grapes, and only the best ones at that since the lesser fruit goes into their Village bottling (also reviewed this week). It addition to subtle fresh tropical fruit notes, it conveys minerality and marvelous richness. … Read more
Penfolds, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “RWT” 2004
($80, FWE Imports): In contrast to Penfolds’ flagship wine, Grange, which is a multi-regional blend aged in American oak barrels, this stunning Shiraz comes
exclusively from the Barossa Valley and is aged in large and small French oak barrels. Not even a decade old–the RWT (Red Winemaking Trial) Shiraz debuted in 2000 with the 1997 vintage–it has already become one of Penfolds’ most sought-after wines. … Read more
China and Wine: We’ve Not Seen Anything Yet
By now most wine lovers have heard that the Chinese are having an enormous impact on the world’s wine market. But the current wave of wine buying frenzy by the Chinese may seem tame compared to the potential tsunami coming in the future.… Read more
Felton Road, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Bannockburn” 2009
($45, Wilson-Daniels): Central Otago, located on the southern end of New Zealand’s South Island, is one of the few places in the world where Pinot Noir has the potential to make outstanding wine. And Felton Road is one the best producers in the area. … Read more
Concha y Toro, Peumo (Colchagua Valley, Chile) Carmenère Terrunyo Block 27 2007
($38, Excelsior): It’s rare, very rare to find a Carménère that delivers this kind of polish and complexity. It’s plenty plumy with good richness. But there’s an alluring leafy and mineral aspect underneath all that ripeness that adds a “not just fruit” element and prevents it from being overdone. … Read more
Trapiche, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2010
($8, Frederick Wildman): With so much overdone Malbec on the market, this simple, straightforward one is a pleasure to recommend, especially at the price. Although ripe and concentrated, it is balanced and not in your face. It would be a good choice for pizza or burgers.… Read more
Domaine Bart, Bourgogne (France) Pinot Noir 2009
($13, Jeanne-Marie de Champs): The 2009 vintage for red Burgundy is fabulous. The wines at the lower end of the prestige ladder, such as Bourgogne Rouge, will be especially attractive because the extra ripeness of the vintage helps even more at this level. … Read more
Mount Nelson, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2010
($17, Wilson Daniels): Founded in 2003, Mount Nelson is a joint venture of Lodovico and Piero Antinori. Lodovico always had an interest in Sauvignon Blanc, planting a prime vineyard to it when he established Ornellaia in Bolgheri. Just as in Bolgheri, this Sauvignon Blanc reflects its origins precisely. … Read more
Penfolds, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Chardonnay 2005
($60, FWE Imports): Yattarna, Penfolds’ top of the line Chardonnay, has undergone a welcome transition from oaky and oily to this refined, creamy, toasty version. Penfolds attributes it to the source of the fruit, the cool Adelaide Hills, which gives less ripe grapes with more freshness to the wine. … Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz/Mourvèdre “Bin 2” 2009
($15, FWE Imports): It’s incredible that Penfolds, with its vast line-up of wines from its flagship Grange at $400 a bottle to ones like this, rarely gets it wrong. This polished blend marries fruity plumy notes with savory gamy ones. It is supple, yet not soft. … Read more
Concha y Toro, Peumo (Rapel Valley, Chile) Carmenère “Marques de Casa Concha” 2009
($22): 
This wine, like their Xplorador Carménère (also reviewed this week) represents another marvelous example of how Concha y Toro delivers value, even at a higher price. Lush red- and black-fruit flavors intertwine seamlessly with savory elements. Its class is evident by its silky texture, good density and lengthy finish. … Read more
Los Vascos, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
($10, Pasternak Wine Imports): As you’d expect from a wine in the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) portfolio, this Cabernet is refined, not in-your-face or over the top. Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) took over Los Vascos estate in 1988 and the wines have just gotten better and better. … Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2009
($13): Although robust and fruity like so many Malbecs, this one has more going on that makes it easy to recommend, especially for the price. There are herbal notes and earthy nuances that peek out through the ripe black fruit. Suppleness makes it easy to
drink now.… Read more
Concha y Toro, Central Valley (Chile) Carmenère “Xplorador” 2010
($8, Excelsior): Concha y Toro is a brilliant Chilean producer because they deliver value and quality at every price point, even $8, as in the case of this wine. Plump, it delivers plenty of plum-like ripe fruit, but subtle leafy notes, common to Carménère, prevent it from being a “fruit bomb.” … Read more
Wine culture starting to take hold in China
The scene stopped me in my tracks. There, on the street in the middle of the bustling market, stalls filled with fake Longchamp bags and knockoff Ralph Lauren, was a young Chinese man standing behind a table wearing a portable microphone and hawking vacuum-powered wine-pump openers.… Read more
Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Trocken Kiedricher Gräfenberg 2009
($75, Loosen Brothers): Robert Weil’s name on a label is a guarantee of quality, since the winery is among Germany’s best. Trocken, or bone-dry wines, are not my favorite style of German Riesling, but this one wowed even a skeptic like myself. … Read more
Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) Clos de Beauvenir 2009
($75, Pasternak Wine Imports): This is one of the rare white wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It comes from a 6.5-acre plot planted primarily to Roussanne and Clairette. Fermented in oak barrels, one-third of which are new, accounts for the noticeable vanilla notes apparent at this stage. … Read more
Prieuré de Montezargues, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) 2010
($25, Pasternak Wine Imports): 
Regular WRO Readers know I am not a fan of rosé, but this one is an unusually attractive one. The regulations for the Tavel appellation permit only rosé, which helps explain why rosés from that area are distinctive. … Read more
Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2007
($48, Pasternak Wine Imports): Christian Voeux, La Nerthe’s winemaker, describes 2007 as “a fantastic vintage,” because, as he puts it, “there was rain and wind just at the right time.” The 2007 La Nerthe certainly has all the traits of coming from a great vintage. … Read more
Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée des Cadettes” 2005
($165, Pasternak Wine Imports): Cadettes is French for the second-born daughter. (I can only imagine how the first-born daughter must have felt to be bypassed when La 
Nerthe selected the name for their flagship cuvée.) The 2005, like its predecessors, is a gorgeous wine. … Read more
Altano, Douro (Portugal) 2008
($10, Vineyard Brands): Portugal’s Douro River has long been famous for Port. More and more, dry red table wines are emerging from this area over the last two decades. This one, from Symington Family Estates, one the hallmark Port producers, is a blend of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca, grapes used to make Port. … Read more
Under the Radar: Long Island Merlot
Some wine areas are vaguely familiar but not well known or fashionable. Parts of Southern Italy, such as Puglia, fit this category, as do parts of Spain, such as Manchuela. But there are other areas, such as Long Island, that fly almost completely under the proverbial radar, showing up on the “screen” of very few consumers.… Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2010
($22, Kobrand): 
By focusing on single and unique vineyards, Craggy Range has propelled itself into the top tier of New Zealand producers. Their 2010 Te Muna Road Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is their best ever–and that’s saying a lot considering their 2009 was excellent as well. … Read more
Hermann J. Wiemer, Finger Lakes (New York) Dry Riesling 2008
($16): Despite a relatively short history–the winery was established only in
1979–Hermann J. Wiemer makes some of this country’s best Rieslings. This one’s serious stuff with a hint of floral elements gracefully intertwined with piercing minerality. Perfectly dry, it’s long, balanced and precise. … Read more
Cono Sur, Bio Bio Valley (Chile) Riesling “Vision” 2009
($14, Vineyard Brands): This, Cono Sur’s more upscale–and single vineyard–bottling, is a fabulous value. With flowers and fruit balanced by lip-smacking acidity, it’s bottled springtime. The focus here is on delicate fruit–not earthy minerality–but the impeccable balance and verve carries it beautifully. … Read more
Château de la Ragotiere, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Selection Vieilles Vignes” 2008
($14, Vineyard Brands): 
Muscadet remains one of the bargain wines in the world. True, many can be thin and vapid. But when they have depth and concentration, like this one, their lemony acidity just amplifies their pleasure. An appealing chalky earthy character accompanies its citrus qualities. … Read more
Loosen Brothers, Mosel (Germany) Riesling “Dr. L” 2009
($11, Loosen Brothers USA): Dr. Loosen is a great German Riesling producer. This wine is their basic rendition, made from grapes grown at various points along the Mosel River. Wonderfully floral, the touch of sweetness is offset nicely by bracing acidity, which keeps it lively and prevents it from being cloying. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV
($25, Quintessential): 
Sadly, the wine drinking public often overlooks Crémant d’Alsace. By definition, a Crémant–be it from Alsace or Burgundy–is a sparkling wine that has fewer bubbles than Champagne. As such, Crémants are, as the name implies, creamier. Lorentz, one of the top Alsace producers, uses Pinot Noir exclusively for this Crémant Rosé.… Read more
Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Walker Bay (South Africa) Pinot Noir 2008
($39, Vineyard Brands): Practically abutting the Atlantic Ocean and feeling its cooling effect, Walker Bay is the capital of Pinot Noir in South Africa. And there’s no doubt that Hamilton Russell Vineyards is one of the area’s leading producers (they also make stunningly good Chardonnay). … Read more
The Alchemy of Wine: A Reason to Cellar
In years past, when marginal weather often failed to ripen grapes adequately, winemakers rejoiced in the relatively rare years when Nature provided ripe fruit flavors. These days, with delayed harvesting, modern winemaking and global warming, it’s easy to get fruit in a wine. … Read more
Scott Family Estate, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir 2008
($39): This lovely California Pinot Noir has plenty of upfront bright fresh fruit–almost candied–flavors. But in addition, it delivers whiff of complementing leafy delicacy. Not a Burgundy, nor should it be, it’s a true reflection of Pinot Noir in Monterey County.… Read more
Abacela, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Albariño 2011
($18): 
Abacela has focused on Spanish varietals, starting with Tempranillo, since their founding. They first made Albariño about a decade ago, when hardly anyone was familiar with this variety from Spain’s Rias Baixas region. There’s still little Albariño planted in the US and what is planted is rarely turned into wine of this caliber.… Read more