($19, Wilson Daniels): Crémant d’Alsace Rosé must be made entirely from Pinot Noir, which helps explains why they, as a category, are very good. That Pierre Sparr, a top Alsace producer, made this one explains why it’s easy to recommend. Crémant (literally meaning, “creamy”), from Alsace or elsewhere, has about two-thirds the fizz as Champagne, which means they have a rounder texture. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon St. Andrews Vineyard 2012
($60, A): Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2015… Read more
MacMurray Estate Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($28): This refined Pinot Noir focuses on ripe, but not jammy, fruit flavors complemented by subtle spice and enough savory nuances to keep it interesting. The mild tannins appear even milder because they are so polished, giving a pleasing overall texture. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($45): Merry Edwards consistently makes a stunning array of Pinot Noirs. Four recent releases from the 2012 vintage continue her streak. This one, a blend from grapes grown in several vineyards in the Russian River Valley, delivers a wonderful tension between ripe fruit flavors and smoky savory nuances. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2012
($54): One of the things I admire about Merry Edwards’s Pinot Noir is that the single vineyard bottlings are different one from the other. The 2012 Flax Vineyard is more muted and more fruit focused at this stage compared to the Klopp Ranch with less savory character. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2012
($60): The 2012 Merry Edwards Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir really sings. The first whiff announces an exciting savory and earthy component that ultimately balances the ripe, but not jammy, California fruit component. It’s more concentrated than her Russian River Valley bottling, but the increased power is not at the expense of elegance. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2012
($57): At this stage — and I qualify it because this wine, like Merry Edwards’ other Pinot Noir, is still evolving even though bottled — combines attributes of her Klopp Ranch and Flax Vineyard bottlings. Engaging aromatics grab your attention immediately, while a seamless combination of bright fruit flavors and savory nuances hold it. … Read more
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2014
($40, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Forty dollars for a Vermentino, a wine more often found in the under $20 category, is an extraordinary price. But this one, Lunae’s Black Label and the winery’s flagship, is an extraordinary wine. After tasting the 2014, I can understand why Gambero Rosso, the prestigious Italian wine guide, has awarded the wine Tre Bicchieri (their highest accolade) for six consecutive years. … Read more
Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2014
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): This clean and fresh Pinot Blanc conveys a lovely delicacy, but has sufficient weight — and a subtle creaminess — to complement a light pasta course. Its floral and lacey character also makes it a perfect choice as either a stand-alone aperitif.… Read more
Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Lagrein 2012
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): The name of the DOC — either Alto Adige or Südtirol — reflects the dual identity of this part of northern Italy, which abuts Austria. But this is a singularly appealing wine. Lagrein, not a well-known grape, should have more widespread popularity because it can produce a reasonably robust wine devoid of searing tannins and balanced by uplifting acidity. … Read more
Illuminati, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Campirosa” 2014
($13, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Though its enticing cherry-red hue says rosé, this is not your standard innocuous one, but rather a rosé masquerading as a light red wine–and a delightful one at that. Fresh and bright, with hints of wild strawberries, the barest hint of a tannic structure and whiff of bitterness in the finish remind you it was made from a light pressing of the Montepulciano grape. … Read more
Louis Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) 2012
($69, Kobrand): Wines from Chambolle-Musigny, one of the top villages in the Côte de Nuits, are some of the most sought after in Burgundy, which explains why even a village wine, such as this one, commands a healthy price. Jadot’s 2012 is a great example and demonstrates why wines from that village are so popular. … Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Toussaints 2012
($45, Kobrand): Wines from premier cru vineyards in from Beaune, especially from top producers, such as Louis Jadot, while not cheap, remain a relative bargain for Burgundy. This Toussaints, from one of their domaines (Domaine Gagey), delivers more weight and power than you’d expect from Beaune and reflects the character of the 2012 vintage.… Read more
Finca el Origen, Cafayate (Salta, Argentina) Torrontes Reserva 2014
($11): Just as Malbec is Argentina’s signature red grape and wine, Torrontés, is becoming that country’s signature white. Very floral, with even a glimmer of honeysuckle, Finca el Origen’s represents one end of the Torrontés style spectrum. Analogous to many Muscat, it’s a bit deceptive because, while the aromas suggest that sweetness will follow, it doesn’t. … Read more
Artesa, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Albarino 2014
($28): There’s not a lot of Albariño, a white grape that makes an aromatic and energetic wine in Rías Baixas (an area in northwest Spain’s Galicia area), grown in California. Indeed, at last count (2013) there were just over 200 acres of the grape planted in the entire state. … Read more
Clayhouse, Paso Robles (California) Petite Sirah Red Cedar Vineyard “Show Pony” 2012
($40): Petite Sirah is, of course, misnamed because there’s nothing petite about it. And that’s its major attraction and, simultaneously, its major flaw. Many Petite Sirah can be overwhelming — boisterous and alcoholic and nothing else. Clayhouse Estate is robust and intense, yes, but it is balanced and not overdone considering the grape. … Read more
ZD Wines, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($55): Despite being one of the pioneer wineries in Napa Valley, ZD Wines, established in 1969 and named after the founders, Norman deLeuze and Gino Zepponi, flies under the radar of many consumers. Originally focused on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Carneros, they added a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon a decade or so later. … Read more
Fiuza, do Tejo (Portugal) Alvarinho 2014
($12, Gabriella Wines): In Portugal, Albariño, Spain’s popular aromatic white grape, is Alvarinho. It’s a little odd to see the grape in the southern part of Portugal — the do Tejo appellation is the area bordering the Tejo, a.k.a. Tagus River not far from Lisbon — because it’s best known as the grape for the mouth-tingling Vinho Verde from Portugal’s north. … Read more
Gregorina, Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) 2012
($15, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Sangiovese, Italy’s most widely planted red grape, is held in high esteem in Tuscany where it is the core for Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the only grape allowed for Brunello di Montalcino. Somehow, its glow fades as it hits the Emilia Romagna border, which is a shame because it can produce great value wine there, as Gregorina demonstrates. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo () “Riparosso” 2013
($13, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Talk about charming rusticity. This Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a cut above your basic “pizza wine,” imparting a lovely combination of cherry-like notes and lively acidity. Fresh and vigorous, it’s just what you need for an “everyday” wine for pasta bathed in a garlicky tomato sauce.… Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Sagrantino (Umbria, Italy) “Collepiano” 2009
($60, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Montefalco Sagrantino, similar to Barolo and Taurasi, can be an impenetrable wine when young because of substantial tannins. The tannins in this massive 2009 from Arnaldo-Caprai, perhaps the leading producer in the DOCG, are still very evident, even at six years of age, but they are not aggressive or astringent. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2012
($20, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the great names in the DOCG of Montefalco Sagrantino, also makes an easy to recommend Montefalco Rosso, a junior varsity version of that DOCG. Whereas regulations for Montefalco Sagrantino require exclusive use of Sagrantino, winemakers are permitted to blend other grapes in Montefalco Rosso, which makes it a far more approachable wine. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Fumé Blanc 2014
($14): It’s abundantly clear that David Stare’s decision in 1972 to plant Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley was brilliant. That grape brought — and continues to bring — acclaim to Dry Creek Vineyard. The 2014, labeled, as always, Fumé Blanc (an allusion to the Loire Valley’s Pouilly Fumé) is marvelous with a rich texture offset by grapefruit rind-like bitterness and delicate bite. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($18): Dave Stare, who founded Dry Creek Vineyard, always made superb Sauvignon Blanc. Though he is no longer making the wines, the tradition continues. For the first time, they are including two clones, estate grown Sauvignon Gris and Sauvignon Musqué, with Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Casal Branco, do Tejo (Portugal) “Falcoaria Clássico” 2012
($14, Tri-Vin Imports): Portugal remains a vast, undiscovered country for table (non Port) wines. Casal Branco’s Falcoaria Clássico is just another example of the value to be found in that part of the Iberian Peninsula. Casal Branco, a vast 2,700 acre estate with 350 acres of vines, has been in the same family for over 200 years, so it is not exactly a newcomer to winemaking. … Read more
Donnafugata, DOC Sicilia Bianco (Italy) “Anthília” 2014
($17, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Vibrancy is one of the surprising characteristics about wines from Sicily, a Mediterranean island where you’d think the heat would produce very ripe grapes lacking in acidity. It’s certainly not the case with the wines from Donnafugata, one of island’s leading producers. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2012
($51, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): In a word — gorgeous. Though the first whiff hints at grandeur, it takes time in the glass for the charm of this Meursault to reveal itself. But it does — creamy with a captivating fullness. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2014
($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s 2014 Mâcon Villages offers a fabulous comparison to their very good one from 2012. While still displaying an engaging creaminess, it’s slightly less rich than the 2012, but has more energy and vivacity. Those whose tastes run to more voluptuous wines — though still not in the New World ripeness category — will enjoy the 2012. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012
($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Chardonnay is prominently displayed on the label to remind consumers that Mâcon Villages, like all white Burgundy, is made from that grape. Jadot has done an admirable job with this one because it transmits the richness of the 2012 vintage while maintaining good acidity, which gives the wine a pleasant kick. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Louis Jadot” 2012
($159, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): At first impression, this wine announces its Grand Cru origin. And it keeps sending this signal as you continue to taste it. Part of its grandeur, no doubt, comes from its being an estate wine. (Domaine Louis Jadot in the box at the base of the label means that the grapes come from their portion of the Clos Vougeot vineyard.)… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) “Le Chapitre” 2012
($31, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): This Bourgogne Rouge delivers far more than you’d expect from that simple appellation and shows that the producer often trumps terroir. A look at the label explains why. First, Maison Louis Jadot is one of Burgundy’s top producers. … Read more
Bodega Septima, Luján de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec 2014
($14, Aveniu Brands): This big red wine has considerable polish, in part, no doubt, because Codorníu Argentina, a subsidiary of the great Spanish wine-producing firm, owns Bodega Septima. This juicy wine manages concentration without going over the edge. The tannins are mild, especially considering the overall size of the wine, which means it’s very approachable now and would be a good choice for grilled beef this summer.… Read more
McManis Family Vineyards, River Junction (California) Viognier 2014
($11): This Viognier is an unbelievable bargain. Viognier is notoriously difficult to get right because it often comes across as a heavy wine. McManis got this one right. It leads with a delicate whiff of white flowers and then dances delicately on the palate, finishing with a bright and racy signature. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Paris Tasting Commemorative” 2012
($92): Miljenko “Mike” Grgich put California wines firmly on the world’s wine map in 1976 when a Chardonnay he made when he was Chateau Montelena’s winemaker beat out a bevy of white Burgundies for first place at a comparative tasting in Paris. … Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Chardonnay Coddington Vineyard 2012
($42, Wilson Daniels): In my experience, Kumeu River is the best New Zealand Chardonnay producer. Of course, I’ve not tasted every Chardonnay coming out of that country, but it’s hard for me to believe there’s a better overall producer of that varietal in New Zealand than Kumeu River. … Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2012
($28, Wilson Daniels): With this Pinot Gris, Kumeu River, justifiably known for their fantastic line-up of Chardonnay, shows they know how to transform other varieties into top-notch wine. It’s a unique Pinot Gris, falling somewhere between the lighter styled Italian version and the heavy ones from Alsace. … Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Chardonnay Hunting Hill Vineyard 2012
($50, Wilson Daniels): Though Kumeu River’s 2012 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is distinct from the winery’s other bottlings, it has the balance and precision for which that producer is known. Showing more minerality than Kumeu River’s Coddington Chardonnay, it could pass for a Grand Cru Chablis because of its density.… Read more
Kumeu River, Kumeu (Auckland, New Zealand) Chardonnay Maté Vineyard 2012
($48, Wilson Daniels): Kumeu River’s Maté Vineyard Chardonnay, named for the patriarch of the family, is always their boldest and most complexity offering. The 2012 fits that description. Although richer and bigger than the winery’s other Chardonnays, it remains perfectly balanced without sacrificing any freshness or verve. … Read more
Monteverro, IGT Toscana (Italy) Vermentino di Monteverro 2014
($25, Opici Wines): Monteverro, a relatively new player in Bolgheri sweepstakes, is aiming to join the Ornellaia and Sassicaia Super Tuscan club with their red wine. So it came as a great surprise to see the quality of this white. Their 2014 Vermentino is crisp, with an enticing floral whiff. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2010
($120, Louis Latour USA): No one produces a better Corton Charlemagne consistently than Maison Louis Latour. Latour, the largest owner of Corton Charlemagne, has ideally located plots on the hill of Corton. The sheer extensiveness of their holdings means that even in “difficult” years Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is top-notch because they limit production by selecting only the very best grapes. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Merlot Harris Vineyard 2012
($60): The Nickel & Nickel Harris Vineyard Merlot, though similarly floral to their Suscol Ranch bottling, is firmer with more backbone and structure at this stage. The tannins are more apparent, but still not aggressive or astringent. It delivers a marvelous leafy character that compliments and reinforces its dark, warm fruit and dense minerality. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2011
($42): If all Merlot tasted like this one from Grgich Hills Estate, the varietal would not be lampooned but rather lionized. This one manages to be plush and seductive without be flabby. Indeed, its structure shows it’s serious wine, not to be confused with the “I’ll a glass of Merlot” category. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Suscol Ranch 2012
($60): Nickel & Nickel specializes in single vineyard wines — not as a marketing tool, but because the wines are different and unique. Their two 2012 Merlots, sourced from Suscol Ranch and Harris Vineyard, show, in clear relief, the value of their approach. … Read more
Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($40): One word describes this wine — graceful. Truchard Vineyards has resisted the temptation to join the crowd with an over-the-top blockbuster Cabernet. Instead, they’ve chosen the graceful path with a wine displaying an alluring herbaceous quality without being under-ripe. There’s plenty of power here, but it doesn’t scream or overwhelm your palate — or the food for that matter. … Read more
Domaine de la Robinière , Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Bel Air” Sec 2013
($15): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines. A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness. Domaine de la Robinière (a.k.a. Vincent& Julien Raimbault) help the consumer by labeling their “Bel Air” cuvée as Sec — and it is dry with exhilarating green apple-like freshness that enhances its bracing minerality. … Read more
Domaine d’Orfeuilles, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Les Coudraies 2012
($16, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines. A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness. Here’s yet another example. There’s no indication on the front label regarding level of sweetness. … Read more
Château de Montfort, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Demi Sec 2013
($16): It’s worth repeating: The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines. A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness. And this wine is a perfect example. The label reads “Demi-Sec,” which implies sweetness. … Read more
Domaine du Clos Naudin, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Moelleux 2011
($53): Philippe Foreau and his family-owned estate, Domaine du Clos Naudin, is one of the stars of Vouvray. The Domaine consists of just under 30 acres of Chenin Blanc vines, from which Foreau makes a stunning range of wines. This one, Moelleux, which means sweet, has apricot nuances and an invigorating freshness. … Read more
François Pinon, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Brut Non Dosé NV
($23): This sparkling wine from François Pinon, one of the leading producers in Vouvray, dazzles with its mineraly chalky signature. The limestone and flint soil gives it real character and structure. It conveys a pleasing firmness without being aggressive because the inherent fruitiness of Chenin Blanc balances its moderate fizziness. … Read more
Beckman Vineyards, Santa Inez Valley (Central Coast, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($20): Beckman, known best for the stylish red and white Rhône blends, also produces a Sauvignon Blanc, a grape not known to the Rhône Valley, from their own grapes. The 2014 is a balanced version with a touch of expected bite offset by a hint of creaminess. … Read more