Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Pierre Sparr, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV

($19, Wilson Daniels): Crémant d’Alsace Rosé must be made entirely from Pinot Noir, which helps explains why they, as a category, are very good.  That Pierre Sparr, a top Alsace producer, made this one explains why it’s easy to recommend. Crémant (literally meaning, “creamy”), from Alsace or elsewhere, has about two-thirds the fizz as Champagne, which means they have a rounder texture. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2012

($60): The 2012 Merry Edwards Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir really sings.  The first whiff announces an exciting savory and earthy component that ultimately balances the ripe, but not jammy, California fruit component.  It’s more concentrated than her Russian River Valley bottling, but the increased power is not at the expense of elegance. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2012

($57): At this stage — and I qualify it because this wine, like Merry Edwards’ other Pinot Noir, is still evolving even though bottled — combines attributes of her Klopp Ranch and Flax Vineyard bottlings.  Engaging aromatics grab your attention immediately, while a seamless combination of bright fruit flavors and savory nuances hold it. Read more

Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2014

($40, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Forty dollars for a Vermentino, a wine more often found in the under $20 category, is an extraordinary price.  But this one, Lunae’s Black Label and the winery’s flagship, is an extraordinary wine.  After tasting the 2014, I can understand why Gambero Rosso, the prestigious Italian wine guide, has awarded the wine Tre Bicchieri (their highest accolade) for six consecutive years. Read more

Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Lagrein 2012

($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): The name of the DOC — either Alto Adige or Südtirol — reflects the dual identity of this part of northern Italy, which abuts Austria.  But this is a singularly appealing wine.  Lagrein, not a well-known grape, should have more widespread popularity because it can produce a reasonably robust wine devoid of searing tannins and balanced by uplifting acidity. Read more

Illuminati, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Campirosa” 2014

($13, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Though its enticing cherry-red hue says rosé, this is not your standard innocuous one, but rather a rosé masquerading as a light red wine–and a delightful one at that.  Fresh and bright, with hints of wild strawberries, the barest hint of a tannic structure and whiff of bitterness in the finish remind you it was made from a light pressing of the Montepulciano grape. Read more

Finca el Origen, Cafayate (Salta, Argentina) Torrontes Reserva 2014

($11): Just as Malbec is Argentina’s signature red grape and wine, Torrontés, is becoming that country’s signature white.  Very floral, with even a glimmer of honeysuckle, Finca el Origen’s represents one end of the Torrontés style spectrum.  Analogous to many Muscat, it’s a bit deceptive because, while the aromas suggest that sweetness will follow, it doesn’t. Read more

Clayhouse, Paso Robles (California) Petite Sirah Red Cedar Vineyard “Show Pony” 2012

($40): Petite Sirah is, of course, misnamed because there’s nothing petite about it.  And that’s its major attraction and, simultaneously, its major flaw.  Many Petite Sirah can be overwhelming — boisterous and alcoholic and nothing else.  Clayhouse Estate is robust and intense, yes, but it is balanced and not overdone considering the grape. Read more

Fiuza, do Tejo (Portugal) Alvarinho 2014

($12, Gabriella Wines): In Portugal, Albariño, Spain’s popular aromatic white grape, is Alvarinho.  It’s a little odd to see the grape in the southern part of Portugal — the do Tejo appellation is the area bordering the Tejo, a.k.a. Tagus River not far from Lisbon — because it’s best known as the grape for the mouth-tingling Vinho Verde from Portugal’s north. Read more

Gregorina, Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) 2012

($15, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Sangiovese, Italy’s most widely planted red grape, is held in high esteem in Tuscany where it is the core for Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the only grape allowed for Brunello di Montalcino.  Somehow, its glow fades as it hits the Emilia Romagna border, which is a shame because it can produce great value wine there, as Gregorina demonstrates. Read more

Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2012

($20, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the great names in the DOCG of Montefalco Sagrantino, also makes an easy to recommend Montefalco Rosso, a junior varsity version of that DOCG.  Whereas regulations for Montefalco Sagrantino require exclusive use of Sagrantino, winemakers are permitted to blend other grapes in Montefalco Rosso, which makes it a far more approachable wine. Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Fumé Blanc 2014

($14): It’s abundantly clear that David Stare’s decision in 1972 to plant Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley was brilliant.  That grape brought — and continues to bring — acclaim to Dry Creek Vineyard.  The 2014, labeled, as always, Fumé Blanc (an allusion to the Loire Valley’s Pouilly Fumé) is marvelous with a rich texture offset by grapefruit rind-like bitterness and delicate bite. Read more

Casal Branco, do Tejo (Portugal) “Falcoaria Clássico” 2012

($14, Tri-Vin Imports): Portugal remains a vast, undiscovered country for table (non Port) wines.  Casal Branco’s Falcoaria Clássico is just another example of the value to be found in that part of the Iberian Peninsula.  Casal Branco, a vast 2,700 acre estate with 350 acres of vines, has been in the same family for over 200 years, so it is not exactly a newcomer to winemaking. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2014

($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s 2014 Mâcon Villages offers a fabulous comparison to their very good one from 2012.  While still displaying an engaging creaminess, it’s slightly less rich than the 2012, but has more energy and vivacity.  Those whose tastes run to more voluptuous wines — though still not in the New World ripeness category — will enjoy the 2012. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Louis Jadot” 2012

($159, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): At first impression, this wine announces its Grand Cru origin. And it keeps sending this signal as you continue to taste it. Part of its grandeur, no doubt, comes from its being an estate wine. (Domaine Louis Jadot in the box at the base of the label means that the grapes come from their portion of the Clos Vougeot vineyard.)Read more

Bodega Septima, Luján de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec 2014

($14, Aveniu Brands): This big red wine has considerable polish, in part, no doubt, because Codorníu Argentina, a subsidiary of the great Spanish wine-producing firm, owns Bodega Septima.  This juicy wine manages concentration without going over the edge.  The tannins are mild, especially considering the overall size of the wine, which means it’s very approachable now and would be a good choice for grilled beef this summer.Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2010

($120, Louis Latour USA): No one produces a better Corton Charlemagne consistently than Maison Louis Latour.  Latour, the largest owner of Corton Charlemagne, has ideally located plots on the hill of Corton.  The sheer extensiveness of their holdings means that even in “difficult” years Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is top-notch because they limit production by selecting only the very best grapes. Read more

Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Merlot Harris Vineyard 2012

($60): The Nickel & Nickel Harris Vineyard Merlot, though similarly floral to their Suscol Ranch bottling, is firmer with more backbone and structure at this stage.  The tannins are more apparent, but still not aggressive or astringent.  It delivers a marvelous leafy character that compliments and reinforces its dark, warm fruit and dense minerality. Read more

Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

($40): One word describes this wine — graceful.  Truchard Vineyards has resisted the temptation to join the crowd with an over-the-top blockbuster Cabernet.  Instead, they’ve chosen the graceful path with a wine displaying an alluring herbaceous quality without being under-ripe.  There’s plenty of power here, but it doesn’t scream or overwhelm your palate — or the food for that matter. Read more

Domaine de la Robinière , Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Bel Air” Sec 2013

($15): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines.  A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness.  Domaine de la Robinière (a.k.a. Vincent& Julien Raimbault) help the consumer by labeling their “Bel Air” cuvée as Sec — and it is dry with exhilarating green apple-like freshness that enhances its bracing minerality. Read more