($19): The Rufinà subzone of Chianti, the vast area between Florence and Siena, is not as well known as the Chianti Classico subzone. Indeed, the name is often confused with Ruffino, a well-known Tuscan producer. The Rufinà zone is home to an array of top producers, including Frescobaldi, a name that is iconic in Italian wine. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Le Caniette, Rosso Piceno DOC (Marche, Italy) “Morellone” 2008
($36, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): A blend of Montepulciano (70%) and Sangiovese, Le Caniette’s Morellone has weight and convey an alluring dark cherry fruit quality. Nicely polished, it retails a hint of charming rusticity in the finish, which frankly, adds to its appeal. … Read more
Concha Y Toro, Alto Maipo (Chile) Puente Alto Vineyard “Don Melchor” 2011
($125): For decades, Don Melchor has traditionally been Chile’s emblematic wine. Despite competition from other top Chilean producers with their top Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, Don Melchor remains a Chilean icon. The 2011 shows why: Enticing, hard to define aromas capture your attention immediately. … Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($15): Although the vast majority of Sauvignon Blanc coming from New Zealand is produced in the Marlborough regions, other areas of that country make excellent examples with slightly different character. This one, for example, from North Canterbury achieves a lovely balance by being a touch broader with fractionally less grassy pungency. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2011
($21, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): 
New Zealand is clearly known for their electrifying Sauvignon Blanc, but this wine shows that country has vinous diversity. From a Bordeaux blend — Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec — Craggy Range has produced a gorgeous wine. … Read more
Pierre Gonon, St. Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($53, Kermit Lynch): 
Wow. You don’t normally expect this kind of power and finesse from a wine from St. Joseph. But some producers are now demonstrating that St. Joseph can be a locale for great wines. Though it’s a long narrow appellation on the west bank of the Rhône, a portion of it at its southern end sits directly across from Hermitage and indeed, the granite rock in which the vines are planted is identical to the soil across the river. … Read more
Château de Saint Cosme, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($42): Gigondas, another one of the nine “cru” in the southern Rhône Valley whose wines are distinctive enough to warrant identification by only the name of the village, is capable of producing powerful, yet stylish wines. This is one them. Using the usual blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsault, the team at Saint Cosme have fashioned a delightfully unusual combination of black fruit flavors, mineral-like nuances and herbal notes, all of which are wrapped in suave tannins.… Read more
Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($24, Vintus Wines): Guigal is one of, if not the, star producer in the Rhône Valley. Their wines, especially their single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turgue, which now command hundreds of dollars upon release, have shown the world the grandeur and finesse of Rhône wines. … Read more
Château de Lavernette, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Vignes de la Roche” 2013
($20, T. Edward Wines): Yes, you read that correctly — white Beaujolais. Though 95 percent of Beaujolais is red, a small amount of white wine made from Chardonnay is produced in the appellation. And it shouldn’t be surprising since Beaujolais borders the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé, a well-known white Burgundy.… Read more
Domaine François Lamarche, Grand Cru La Grande Rue (Burgundy, France) 2011
($387, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): 
La Grande Rue, squeezed between La Tache on one side and La Romanée, Romanée Conti and Romanée St Vivant on the other, is the least renown (and hence, the least expensive) of the famed Grand Cru of Vosne-Romanée. … Read more
Domaine Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2012
($92, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): 
The wine comes from two separate premier cru vineyards, which are close to each other, but are distinct. Yields were so low in 2012–which helps to explain the high prices for that excellent vintage–that Gallois had to combine juice from the two vineyards to make a manageable quantity of wine.… Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2012
($26): This stylish Chardonnay shows restraint without sacrificing flavor. It’s plenty creamy, yet crisp. It manages to be full flavored without being heavy or ponderous. In short, it’s long and refined — and at a good price.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2015… Read more
Zuani, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) “Vigne” 2013
($23): This charming white is an unusual blend of Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. It’s a blend that somehow works, delivering a subtle whiff of white flowers, melon-like nuances and crisp balancing acidity that add vibrancy. Overall, it has a softer, gentler profile that makes it work equally well before or with dinner.… Read more
Domaine Montirius, Vacqueyras (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Clos” 2010
($26): 
This is a classic example of Vacqueyras, one of the nine “cru” in the southern Rhône Valley whose wines are distinctive enough to warrant identification by only the name of the village. (Châteauneuf-du-Pape is likely the best known of the southern Rhône cru.) … Read more
Les Dauphins, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Réserve 2013
($11, Monsieur Touton Selections): Côtes du Rhône, a vast appellation in the southern Rhone Valley, produces both well priced satisfying red wines and mediocre ones. This one, in the former category, shows why the appellation remains so popular. A “bistro wine” at its best, it’s refreshing, fruity and slightly spicy, but not heavy.… Read more
André Jacquart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs “Brut Experience” NV
($55, Esprit du Vin): 
It’s unusual to find a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne. This one is stunning and not to be missed. The creamy elegance and precision for which Chardonnay-based Champagne is renown is immediately apparent. Of course is doesn’t hurt that all the grapes come from their vineyards located in either Premier or Grand Cru villages on the Côte des Blancs, the best area in Champagne for Chardonnay. … Read more
Inconceivable, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay 2013
($25): A cutesy name and equally unconventional label makes me skeptical. But it’s important to taste. Here’s a clean and bright Chardonnay with a slightly creamy element and a hint of pepper-like spice that adds brightness. Thankfully, restrained, but not vapid, this is a refreshingly vibrant wine. … Read more
Domaine de Fondrèche, Ventoux Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2014
($17, Robert Kacher Selection): Ventoux, an appellation in the Southern Rhône Valley, is known more for red wines than for whites. This wine changes that impression immediately. It’s crisp and clean, with a hint of white flowers and none of the heaviness frequently seen in southern Rhône whites. … Read more
Frei Brothers, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($27): It’s almost impossible to find this complexity in Pinot Noir at this price. Not that $27 is inexpensive, but it is for Pinot Noir, a whine whose quality tanks quickly as yields go up in an effort to keep costs down. … Read more
La Crema, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($40): This Russian River Pinot Noir is fresh and vibrant with supple tannins, which create a suave texture. Savory elements balance the fresh fruit notes. Not overdone, this Pinot Noir is an excellent choice for current drinking.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 20, 2015… Read more
Niner Wine Estates, Edna Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($35): This well-priced Pinot Noir delivers toasty black fruit notes complemented by savory nuances. It’s a hefty Pinot Noir, to be sure, but it is not over the top. A hint of sweetness and heat from alcohol peaks out in finish. … Read more
Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($35): You taste the Carneros pedigree immediately. Lively and bright, red fruit flavors dominate but don’t overwhelm. The unique character of Pinot Noir — flavor without weight — is apparent. If only the heat of alcohol didn’t peek out in the finish it would get higher marks.… Read more
Bouchaine, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Meunier Estate Vineyard “Bacchus Collection” 2013
($40): 
The wines from Bouchaine, the oldest continuously operating winery in the Carneros District, according to their website, fly under the radar. I certainly can’t explain it given the stature of their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which show why Carneros is a prized area for those varietals. … Read more
Reata, California (United States) Pinot Noir “Three County” 2013
($30): The grapes come from Monterey, Sonoma and San Benito Counties — hence the name of this cuvee. It’s a sweet and lush expression of Pinot Noir ready to drink now.
87 Michael Apstein Oct 20, 2015… Read more
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Malconsorts 2013
($475, Becky Wasserman Selection): The wines from Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, now run by Sylvain’s son, Sébastien, have become some of the most sought after in all of Burgundy. The Premier Cru vineyard Aux Malconsorts is adjacent to and just south of the Grand Cru La Tache, which, in combination of the renown of the producer, explains the extraordinary price for a premier cru. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Argillières 2012
($130, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): As the name of the vineyard suggests, there’s lots of clay in the soil, which explains the weight and density of the wine. And given its ferrous nuances, there’s likely to be iron in the soil as well. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chanlis 2012
($130, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Parent, currently run by Anne and her sister Catherine Parent, is one of the finest domaines in Pommard. Indeed, this Premier Cru and another one from the domaine, Les Argillières, are a lesson in the wines of Pommard, showing the diversity of the wines from that village. … Read more
Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Petite Chapelle 2011
($100, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): 
The “frères” running this Gevrey-Chambertin-based domaine are brothers Frédéric and Emmanuel Humbert. Though not as revered as the 2010 vintage, 2011 nonetheless produced some stunning wines. Humbert Frères’ Petite Chapelle is one of them. The Petite Chapelle vineyard is an enclave of premier cru land surrounded on three sides by vineyards carrying the less prestigious village appellation and on the fourth side by the Grand Cru, Chapelle-Chambertin. … Read more
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2013
($29, Becky Wasserman Selection): There is an advantage to buying “grower” wines (as opposed to those made by a négociant) with a regional appellation, such as Bourgogne Rouge, which theoretically could come from anywhere within Burgundy. The consumer knows the approximate locale because most growers’ vineyards are located near their winery. … Read more
Château Phélan-Ségur, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2008
($54): The wines from the 2008 vintage in Bordeaux are overlooked because they were firm upon release and were followed by the opulent and immediately appealing 2009s and then the refined and stylish 2010s. But, as is always the case, talented producers, such as Château Phélan-Ségur, make excellent wines even in less revered years. … Read more
Château Bourbon La Chapelle, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($17): This, the second wine of Château Castera, a property classified as one of the Cru Bourgeois of Médoc, shows the value of Bordeaux. The current owners acquired Château Castera in1986 from famed Bordeaux merchant and property owner, Alexis Lichine. The last 30 years have seen enormous renovations in the winery and the vineyards that explain the current high level of quality, even of their second wine. … Read more
Château de Taillan, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2011
($21): This property, classified as a Cru Bourgeois, a category that accounts for less than 5 percent of all the properties in Bordeaux, reinforces the idea that Bordeaux is, indeed, the place for value-packed red wines. Less weighty and fruit-focused than California Merlot, this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc has a beguiling combination of fruitiness and earthiness supported by firm, but not aggressive, structure and uplifting acidity. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de la Madrière Vieilles Vignes 2013
($24, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): 
There’s no better way to learn about the differences between the cru of Beaujolais than by tasting the wines of Stéphane Aviron, one of the appellation’s top producers. The house characteristics — precision and harmony — are apparent in all of them, but each reflects the specific terroir of the region. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Vieilles Vignes 2013
($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): 
If your tastes run to firmer rather than floral Beaujolais, turn to Aviron’s 2013 Côte de Brouilly. Also made from old vine fruit, it’s stonier — you can almost taste the granite soil — than his Fleurie, but equally attractive. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Miljenko’s Selection” 2013
($60): Power and grace. That sums it up. Mike Grgich is the undisputed master of Chardonnay. He proved that almost 40 years ago at the “Judgment of Paris” tasting when the Chardonnay he made for Chateau Montelena beat out top white Burgundies for first place. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Miljenko’s Selection” 2012
($90): Grgich Hills, world famous for their Chardonnays, also produce stunning Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the first release of a specially selected Cabernet that comes from Austin’s Vineyard, which surrounds the winery in Rutherford. As you’d expect from a Napa Valley Cabernet, it’s full of flavor. … Read more
Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Stagecoach Vineyard 2012
($40): 
Those consumers looking for “a glass of Merlot” before dinner should avoid this wine. Those, however, who want to see for themselves the complexity that the varietal can deliver should embrace it. There’s a hint of leafiness and earthiness that, frankly, a Merlot-based wine should deliver to accompany and complement the black fruit notes. … Read more
Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard 2012
($75): 
Though Dave and Emily Miner founded their eponymous winery less than 20 years ago, they must be included among any list of the top tier of Napa Valley producers, at least judging from their current releases from there. This Cabernet Sauvignon has the captivating — and paradoxical — combination of an almost chewy yet very polished texture. … Read more
Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) “The Oracle” 2011
($90): 
The packaging — heavy bottle, name starting with “The”– had two strikes against before I even pulled the cork. But, as the saying goes, you can’t judge a book by its cover. This luxurious Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot is stunning. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yountville Selection” 2011
($185): There’s no question that Grgich Hills’ Yountville Selection Cabernet ranks with California’s greatest red wines. Once again, the winemaking team at Grgich Hills manages to convey great power without overdoing anything. Indeed, the marvel of this wine is its elegance, which is in keeping with the Grgich Hills style. … Read more
Alvaro Palacios, Priorat (Spain) “Les Terrasses” 2012
($38, Rare Wine Company): Palacios is one of the winemakers who were responsible for the renaissance of winemaking in this unique region. It’s easy to see why the vines were abandoned over the years: steep slopes of solid rock. A reasonable person could ask, why bother to replant vines here? … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Pétalos” 2013
($19, Rare Wine Company): 
Palacios is one of the most famous and revered names in Spanish winemaking. Alvaro Palacios, along with others, is credited with the revival of the entire Priorat region. Now at his family’s estate in Rioja, he is energizing and reconfiguring how people think about wines from that region. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Villa de Corullon” 2012
($40, Rare Wine Company): 
Almost a decade ago, Oscar Alegre, export manager at Descendientes de J. Palacios, told me, referring to Bierzo, that “Nobody in Spain thinks quality wine comes from here.” I do not know whether the thinking in Spain has changed, but I can assure you that very high quality, exciting wines come from Bierzo, especially those made by Descendientes de J.… Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2014
($20, Pieropan Wines USA): 
Sadly, Soave has been one of the most abused names in wine, with many examples in the past — and still some today — that are dilute and without character. What makes it a real shame is how good and exciting authentic Soave, such as this one, can be. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2013
($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): St. Véran, a kissing cousin of Pouilly-Fuissé, proves that the Mâconnais is a place for well-priced Chardonnay-based white wines. Drouhin’s 2013 is more overt than their Rully, showing more fruit and fewer stony elements. Its bright lemony zing makes it a good choice for everyday consumption.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2013
($25, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Consumers who complain about the high price of Burgundy (count me in, by the way) need to run out and buy this wine. Rully, one of the five appellations within the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to some terrific white wines, made, as in the case with all white Burgundy, from Chardonnay. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2013
($83, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): 
Without doubt, Vaudésir is one of the two top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. (The other is Les Clos.) In the hands of a talented producer, such as Drouhin who owns a portion of the vineyard, the wine from Vaudésir delivers a near-magical combination of weight and flinty elegance. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2013
($24, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): In addition to Drouhin’s extensive holdings in Chablis, it buys grapes and must (newly fermenting juice) from growers with whom it has long-standing relationships. This village Chablis is a blend of Drouhin’s grapes with those of other growers. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2013
($32, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Though based in Beaune and known best as a top Burgundy négociant, Maison Joseph Drouhin consistently produces excellent Chablis from its extensive holdings there. Its Chablis, “Réserve de Vaudon,” comes from the Vallée de Vauvillien, which is located between Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre, two of the best Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. … Read more
Pierre Sparr, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Reserve NV
($19, Wilson Daniels): Sparr’s Crémant d’Alsace Brut has a completely different, yet equally attractive, profile compared to their Brut Rosé. Linear and cutting, it delivers an appealing creaminess that balances its firmness. It reminds us of the bargains that non-Champagne sparkling wines can provide. … Read more