($30): 
It’s worth keeping your eyes out for wines from this new small producer in the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County. Sweetzer, like many producers in the Sta. Rita Hills, buys grapes from growers as opposed to owning their own vineyards — a set-up that is similar to a small Burgundy négociant. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Zanna” 2011
($38, Montcalm Wine Imports): 
The somewhat unwieldy name of Abruzzo’s sole DOCG and the reputation of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for producing only inexpensive wine might put some consumers off from ordering this one. That would be a mistake. The Colline Teramane area within Abruzzo is uniquely well suited for the Montepulciano grape because its exposure to the sea and the elevation of the vineyards act as cooling influences, which allows the grapes to maintain their acidity thus instilling liveliness to the wines. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2014
($35, Louis Latour USA): Fourchaume is a Premier Cru vineyard that lies on the right bank of the Serein River, adjacent to the string of Grand Cru vineyards. To my mind, it is typically the most opulent of the premier crus with more ripeness and less minerality than the others. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2014
($28, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains, in my mind, the most undervalued area for top white wine. And for those looking for “unoaked Chardonnay,” it is that style’s birthplace. Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, acquired Simonnet-Febrve, a house established in 1840, in 2003 and a year later installed Jean-Philippe Archambaud as managing director. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2014
($30, Louis Latour USA): 
Simonnet-Febvre owns a piece of the Mont de Milieu vineyard, which may explain why it is always one of their top wines. Mont de Milieu (literally, the mountain in the middle), located on the right bank of Serein River near the strip of Grand Cru vineyards, takes its name from its location in the middle, separating the dukedoms of Burgundy and Champagne of the past. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2014
($95, Louis Latour USA): In addition to using some fruit from their holdings in Clos du Roi vineyard, Latour also bottles a wine made exclusively from grapes grown there. Wines from Corton Clos du Roi often have a plushness and luxurious texture — showing it’s good to be the King — that make them especially attractive. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton (Burgundy, France) Grancey 2014
($117, Louis Latour USA): 
Latour’s Corton Grancey, a Grand Cru and their flagship wine, is a blend of four Grand Cru vineyards on the hill of Corton: Corton-Perrieres, Corton-Bressandes, Corton-Clos du Roi, and Corton-Grèves. The proportion each vineyard contributes to the finished wine varies vintage to vintage. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Miljenko’s Selection” 2014
($60): 
In a word, thrilling. “Mike” Grgich, the king of Chardonnay since it was he who made the Chardonnay that stunned the French and the world in the Judgment of Paris 1976 tasting, has done it again. Rich and explosive, this wine dances on the palate without a trace of heaviness. … Read more
Arínzano, Pago del Arínzano (Northeastern Spain) “La Casona” 2008
($30): 
In the hierarchy of the Spanish classification of wine growing areas, a Pago is at the top. Pago is a single estate that produces exceptional wines according to the Spanish authorities. La Casona is their mid-level wine, which seriously over delivers for the price. … Read more
Giovanna Madonia, Romagna Albana Secco DOCG (Italy) “Neblina” 2014
($19): 
This category of wine grabbed headlines in 1987, more because of surprise than stature, when it was awarded Italy’s first DOCG for a white wine. Known then as Albana di Romagna, there was a collective bewilderment since many other white wine DOCs seemed more appropriate for elevation to Italy’s highest level of classification. … Read more
Paul-Etienne Saint Germain, Champagne (France) Rosé NV
($50): The blend — 90 percent Pinot Noir and the remainder Chardonnay — explains the power of this Champagne. But its appeal is not just its power. It has depth and most important, impeccable balance. Nothing seems out of place. Yes, drink it as an aperitif, but it’s sturdy enough to stand up to a salad Niçoise ladened with grilled rare tuna.… Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2015
($41, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils labels his Vaillon as the singular, omitting the “s” to emphasize that their grapes come from the original and heart of the vineyard, not an adjacent vineyard that is allowed to use the name Vaillons. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2015
($29, Frederick Wildman & Sons): With everyone raving about the Chablis and other white Burgundies from the 2014 vintage, those wines from 2015 may be overlooked, which would be a shame. Domaine Christian Moreau made an exceptional village Chablis in 2015, a year that produced riper whites compared to 2014. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
This sensational bargain is clearly marketed to New World wine drinkers with the word Chardonnay in large type emblazoned on the label. Marketing aside, with zesty energy and a hint of seductive creaminess, its flavor profile and character shouts — in a refined way — white Burgundy. … Read more
Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014
($25): 
The 2014 vintage for whites in Burgundy across appellations is exceptional, ranking with 2010 and 2008. The across-the-board quality is a boon for consumers because even wines from the lowliest appellations from top producers, such as Alex Gambal’s Bourgogne Blanc, shine. … Read more
Château Coutet, Barsac (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($44): Sweet wines, such as this one, need to be judged on their verve and acidity, not just their luxurious richness. On that count, the 2014 Château Coutet is a winner. It has plenty of energy to balance its honeyed character so it’s not cloying at all, but rather refreshing. … Read more
Château Phélan Ségur, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($40): Under Véronique Dausse’s management Château Phélan Ségur has catapulted into the top ranks. Her team produced a positively gorgeous wine in 2014. Though refined and polished, it retained the attractive gritty earthiness that makes the wines of St. Estèphe so engaging. … Read more
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($58): 
Olivier Bernard, owner of Domaine de Chevalier, believes that the wines from Pessac-Léognan should be “feminine, not a powerhouse.” In keeping with his philosophy, Domaine de Chevalier red is never a block-busting powerhouse. But it’s always a majestic wine. The 2014, while less concentrated and less dense than others from Pessac-Léognan, is exciting to taste. … Read more
Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($18): 
Château Coufran, an oddity on the Left Bank because of its high proportion of Merlot, combines a leafy earthy component with fine tannins in their 2014. It’s a steal. And just because Coufran is not a “classified growth” (that is, it was not classified as Grand Cru Classé in 1855) do not dismiss its ability to develop with age. … Read more
Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($40): 
A wine from a Chateau listed in famous 1855 Classification of Bordeaux — a so-called Classified Bordeaux — for $40 is a rarity. Especially when it’s not the Chateau’s “second” wine, but actually their “grand vin.” Château La Lagune has always been under-rated, delivering more than its price suggested. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($48): 
Also reflecting its origins, the Russian River Valley bottling delivers more black fruit-like flavors rather than the red fruit of the Sonoma Coast. In contrast to the cooler Sonoma Coast bottling, this one is fleshier with a hint of savory notes.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2014
($66): Merry Edwards’ Klopp Ranch bottling highlights bright red fruit flavors with less emphasis on the savory component. A succulent wine, it is balanced and pure with an alluring suppleness. It strikes a gorgeous mid ground in terms of intensity. I’m not sure that anyone, even Edwards herself, can explain precisely what it is about the vineyards that results in the different expressions of her wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne 2014
($63): Merry Edwards’ Georganne bottling has more apparent tannic structure compared to her others from 2014. It’s more brooding at this stage without the same velvety glossiness. That said, there is an appealing earthy, savory aspect that grows on you as the wine sits in the glass. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Cuvée August” 2014
($98): The grapes for Merry Edwards’ Cuvée August, named after her first grandchild and her most expensive Pinot Noir, come from the top part of the slope of the Meredith Estate. A dazzling and explosive wine, its concentration almost borders on a “Pinot Syrah” style, but does not cross the line. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2014
($60): The Flax Vineyard bottling bombards the palette — in a very nice way — with lovely aromatics and juicy dark red fruit. It speaks directly to you. Savory elements appear, almost reluctantly, but then persist through a long finish. Similar to her other Pinot Noirs, the tannins are suave giving the wine a velvety texture.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2014
($68): 
There are fewer savory elements in Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane compared to the Coopersmith and Meredith, but the crystalline purity of the red fruit flavors is astounding. The savory slightly mushroom-y nuances appear with time, with reinforces an important point when drinking (or tasting) her wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith 2014
($66): 
Merry Edwards’ Coopersmith bottling, similar to the Meredith Estate, delivers refined black fruit flavors enrobed in suave tannins. There’s also an alluring smoky or slightly toasted aspect to it. It’s long and captivating. Part of this wine’s excitement is that it is, indeed, different from the Meredith.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2014
($63): 
The pick of an exceptional litter at this stage, Merry Edwards’ Meredith Estate Pinot Noir says wow! It’s a wonderfully complex mixture of dark fruit and savory flavors. Both glossy and chewy (in a nice way) its contrasts continue to captivate throughout a meal. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($34): Few people get excited about Sauvignon Blanc as they do about other varietal wines. For those skeptics, it’s time to taste Merry Edwards’ version. This is an exciting wine that defies easy categorization. There’s the bite of Sauvignon Blanc, to be sure, but there’s a creaminess and suaveness that suggests a Bordeaux-like blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. … Read more
J Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Rosé Brut NV
($45): A graceful blend of basically Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this salmon-hued rosé is both steely and fruity — and perfectly balanced. It’s remarkably versatile, working deliciously as an after-work, “I’m glad to be home,” aperitif and equally well with simply grilled salmon. … Read more
Terras Gauda, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino “Abadía de San Campio” 2015
($18, Baron Francois): This 100% Albariño could be the poster child for Rias Baixas. Riveting without being aggressive, it awakens and refreshes the palate. It will slice through whatever flavors you put in front of it. A white pepperiness adds to its appeal. … Read more
Terras Gauda, O Rosal, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) 2015
($18, Baron Francois): 
The so-called “flagship” of the winery, this Rias Baixas is a blend of primarily Albariño (70%) and other indigenous varieties, Loureira and Caiño, which add subtle complexity. O Rosal refers to the valley in Rias Baixas where the vineyards are located. … Read more
Drappier, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV
($55): Drappier, a small family-run house, has been making Champagne since the early 19th century. They are one of the few houses that make a rosé Champagne entirely from Pinot Noir by the saignée method. That is, they press the Pinot Noir grapes, let the juice and skins remain in contact for a few days, just enough time to extract a touch of color, and then perform the secondary fermentation on the resulting pink-colored wine. … Read more
Auvigue, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2014
($18): Consumers should snap up as many 2014 white Burgundies as they can. It’s a great vintage across appellations, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. And it’s in the south of Burgundy where you really find bargains in 2014. … Read more
Auvigue, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Crays 2014
($32): Auvigue is one of the very top producers in the Mâconnais. Their name on a label is an assurance of quality. They make a range of wines from area including several from Pouilly-Fuissé that express the enormous — and wonderful — diversity of that appellation. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Genevrières 2014
($96): Bouchard Père et Fils, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a grower, owning over 300-acres of vineyards in the Côte d’Or, including 30-acres of Grand Cru and about 180-acres of Premier Cru. They consistently excel in their Meursault. This magnificent Meursault Genevrières is a blend of two plots, totaling over 6-acres, that they own. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Chevalier-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2014
($300): Bouchard Père et Fils, owns over 1/3 of this Grand Cru vineyard that sits just above Le Montrachet, making them its largest owner. Their roughly 6.5-acres are located in all four terraces of the vineyard, which helps explain why their Chevalier-Montrachet is so complex. … Read more
Chateau du Basty, Régnié (Burgundy, France) 2015
($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Chateau du Basty, situated a stone’s throw from Régnié and Morgon, two of the Beaujolais cru, has been in the same family since 1482 so it’s safe to assume they know something about the area. When I tasted there last November, there was no electricity because of a wind storm. … Read more
Patton Valley Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate 2013
($34): At a trade tasting, I was impressed by the dramatic differences in Patton Valley Vineyard’s Pinot Noirs expressed depending on the location of the vineyard. Equally impressive is this one, blended from a variety of vineyard sites. Restrained, with more of a fruit than herbal focus, it is nicely balanced. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2011
($18, Vision Wine & Spirits): A more serious wine than their Crianza, Bodegas Franco Españolas’ Rioja Reserva is yet another example of how Spanish wines over-deliver. It’s more refined and polished, delivering more complexity compared to the Crianza. The Crianza’s vivacity is apparent here as well, which means you will not tire of it throughout a meal. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2005
($25, Vision Wine & Spirits): Astounding to find beautifully matured wine at retail at this price. This Gran Reserva demonstrates the virtue of cellaring wine…only in this case, Bodegas Franco Españolas did the work and absorbed the expense involved in aging. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Crianza (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2013
($13, Vision Wine & Spirits): The wines from Franco Españolas are just another example of the excellent bargains available from Spain. Take this Crianza for example. A blend of Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha, it is a lively mixture of red fruit flavors, spice and herbs. … Read more
Bodegas Ochoa, Navarra (Spain) Reserva 2009
($22, Frontier Imports): Big and powerful, this blend of Tempranillo (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Merlot has a glossy texture. Even at seven years of age, a hint of seductive, almost sweet, oakiness remains. Its ripeness is felt in the finish as a touch of heat. … Read more
Pago de Larrainzar, Navarra (Spain) Reserva Especial 2009
($28): The international blend of Merlot (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) dwarfs the contribution of Tempranillo (15%) and Garnacha. With ripe flavors, a bit of sweet oak and a velvety texture, it’s a showy wine. Uplifting acidity keeps it lively and fresh, making it a good choice at a steakhouse.… Read more
Príncipe de Viana, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo Reserva 2011
($17, Classical Wines of Spain): 
Navarra, a wine region in northern Spain, is best known for its Garnacha-based rosado. With its proximity to Rioja (indeed, a part of Rioja DOCa lies within the geographic area of Navarra) it is not surprising that Tempranillo, the major grape of its neighbor, does well too. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Wild Grace” 2014
($26): 
Love the wine, hate the marketing. Kim Crawford’s Wild Grace Chardonnay is one of their wines in a category that they refer to as “small parcels.” In short, they cull the best grapes from their best vineyards to make a reserve-style wine. … Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2015
($20): 
Pieropan, one of the leading producers in Soave, makes at least two stunning single-vineyard wines. I remember having a 2005 from their La Rocca vineyard last year that was simply stunning — fresh and mature at once. So, it’s no surprise to me that their “regular” Soave Classico is delectable. … Read more
Domaine J. Chamonard, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) “Le Clos de Lys” 2014
($32, Savio Soares Selections): 
It’s hard to determine from the importer’s website whether Le Clos de Lys is actually a single vineyard or a proprietary name for a wine that comes from several parcels in Morgon. No matter, the wine is excellent and reinforces my opinion that the cru of Beaujolais will be the next hot area for French wine. … Read more
Ouled Thaleb, Morocco () “Ait Souala” 2012
($23, Nomadic Distribution): 
Named after Ait Souala, once the largest winemaking estate in Africa, this is a ripe blend of Arinarnoa (50%) and equal amounts of Tannat and Malbec. A big, muscular wine, which still has surprising freshness, it finishes smooth and round. … Read more
Ouled Thaleb, Morocco () “Signature” 2013
($23, Nomadic Distribution): 
You would be forgiven if you were unaware that Morocco produces wine — and good ones at that. After all, the Sahara Desert lies within the country and 99% of the population belongs to a religion that prohibits alcohol consumption. … Read more