($18, Moët Hennessey USA): Terrazas de los Andes, a subsidiary of Moët & Chandon, is dedicated to 
still wines. Vineyards in Argentina, such as the ones belonging to Terrazas de los Andes, are frequently planted at high altitude to take advantage of nocturnal cooling which preserves acidity in grapes and freshness in wines. … Read more
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Domaine du Château de Chorey, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009
($25, Becky Wasserman Selection): 
A vintage like 2009, bathed in perfect weather during the entire growing season and through harvest, was especially beneficial to the lesser appellations that in poorer years suffer from under-ripe grapes that translate into thin wines. That’s why in 2009 a low prestige category, such as Bourgogne Rouge, from a conscientious producer, like Château du Chorey, is a bargain-priced over-achiever delivering far more than you’d expect. … Read more
Beast, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Wallula Vineyard “Sphinx” Riesling 2010
($25): This tongue-in-cheek labeled wine by Buty Winery explains why Riesling is making a resurgence. Dry, mineraly and racy, it’s a joy to drink and easy to recommend. And with less than 13%-stated alcohol, it’s certainly a beauty. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2012… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Gewürztraminer 2010
($9): Delicate aromas of white flowers catch your attention, and lovely spice and vibrancy holds it. A subtle hint of sweetness reinforces the spiciness of the wine. It works well as an aperitif or with hard-to-match foods, such as roast pork.… Read more
Buty, Columbia Valley (Washington) Semillon Sauvignon Muscadelle 2009
($25): In this white Bordeaux blend, every variety seems to contribute without dominating. Muscadelle (8%) brings appealing and delicate floral notes, while the Semillon (65%) adds body and a seductive creamy waxiness. The Sauvignon Blanc gives the wine verve and bright acidity. … Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) White Riesling Late Harvest Reserve “Ethos” 2008
($35): Sweet wines, such as this one (sold in a 375 ml bottle) with 23% residual
sugar, need to be judged on their acidity, not their sweetness. Without adequate acidity, the wine will be cloying and syrupy. This one has fabulous enlivening acidity and verve that just amplifies the apricot-tinged flavors that explode on the palate. … Read more
Gloria Ferrer, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2008
($22): Gloria Ferrer, well known for delectable sparkling wines, has made a California Pinot Noir that emphasizes elegance over sheer power. I suspect their experience with using Pinot Noir in sparkling wine explains the finesse and relatively low–13.5% stated alcohol–in this lively wine. … Read more
Tapeña, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2010
($8, Freixenet USA): The Verdejo grape (not to be confused with the Verdelho grape) is the primary one used in Spain’s Rueda region, where it has achieved tremendous success. As a result, others are growing it elsewhere in Spain. Not entirely dry, this Verdejo has delicate peach undertones that make it a good choice with Asian food or as an aperitif. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “St. Andrews” 2006
($50, American Wine Distributors): Wakefield is best known for their stellar Rieslings. After tasting this Cabernet and the Wakefield Shiraz (also reviewed this week), I’m sure that these varieties will be giving Riesling a run for its money. St. Andrews is the name Wakefield uses for their top tier of wines and this Cabernet Sauvignon certainly deserves to be included. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Shiraz “St. Andrews” 2006
($50, American Wine Distributors): This is the kind of wine that justifies Australia’s reputation for Shiraz. Boisterous and plumy, yes, but that can be said of many Aussie Shiraz. Even with its 14.6% alcohol, it delivers so much more than lapel-grabbing-in-your-face fruitiness. … Read more
Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Dry Riesling “Red Slate” 2010
($14, Loosen Bros. USA): Happily, with Riesling surge’s in popularity in this country, we are seeing very high quality varietal wines–as opposed to vineyard designated ones–coming out of Germany, the place where Riesling excels. Germany always sent us great vibrant Riesling from specific sites, such as Piesporter Goldtröpfchen. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2009
($63): This Premier Cru is always one of Latour’s best reds from the Côte de Beaune. The house has substantial holdings in this some of the best parts of this vineyard that they purchased over 100 years ago. Those who complain Latour’s reds are diluted and not up to the quality of their white wines need to take another look. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2009
($66, Louis Latour, USA): Village wines from Gevrey-Chambertin can be among the most disappointing red Burgundies because some growers think they can get away bottling anything and selling it under that famous name. Fortunately, this is not one of them. Quite the contrary, the complexity and finesse suggest a premier cru. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Terres Brulées 2009
($48, Palm Bay International): The Terres Brulées is the name Colombo gives to the 20-year old vines planted near the winery. Vigorous and youthful, it delivers spice and liquorice-like flavors. It’s beautifully balanced, with no sharp edges. The tannins are polished, which mean you can enjoy it now with wintry fare.… Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Vallon de L’Aigle 2009
($88, Palm Bay International): This is Colombo’s top cuvée, from old vines sitting atop a ridge. The firmest and most mineraly of his wines, it has distinct peppery notes, which act like a condiment and enliven the wine. Big and concentrated, the tannins are firm, but fine. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) La Louvée 2009
($70, Palm Bay International): La Louvée (“she-wolf”) comes from 70-yr old Syrah vines planted on “only” a 30-degree slope. Organic matter covers the granite and gives the wine a slighter rounder sense than the Les Ruchots (also reviewed this week). Fruit flavors are more apparent with minerality in the background. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Les Ruchets 2009
($70, Palm Bay International): Colombo is one of the best producers of Cornas, an appellation in the 
northern Rhône which lacks the popularity of Côte Rôtie or Hermitage, but which like those, uses the Syrah grape. He makes a variety of Cornas from different vineyards that vary in exposure and vine age. … Read more
The Paradoxes of Champagne
Champagne must not have gotten the memo about the French appellation controllée (AOC) laws. They have their own regulations–after all, Champagne is an AOC–but they seem to have originated in Rome or Athens, not Paris.
Regional Blends Predominate
Elsewhere in France, the most prized and expensive wines come from individual and distinct vineyards. … Read more
Añoro, Mendoza (Argentina) Chardonnay 2011
($22, Vine Connections): 
Argentina, best known for Malbec, takes advantage of high altitude vineyards to capture acidity in a warm climate. The ripeness in this Chardonnay comes through as tropical fruit flavors, while zingy acidity keeps it in balance. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011… Read more
Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Erdener Treppchen 2010
($20, Loosen Bros. USA): 
Greet your holiday party guests with a glass of this Riesling and they will be thrilled. The village of Erden, situated in the Middle Mosel, the most exalted portion of the river’s vineyards, produces beautifully structured and precise wines, such as this one from one of the Mosel’s leading producers, Dr.… Read more
Buty Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot/ Cabernet Franc 2009
($40): Caleb Foster, Buty’s winemaker and part owner, loves to blend wines. His Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blend (also reviewed this week) is masterful. In that same vein is this Merlot-Cabernet Franc mixture, a blend that is popular in St. Emilion and Pomerol on Bordeaux’s right-bank. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($25, Moët Hennessey USA): 
Cloudy Bay catapulted New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on the world’s wine map about 25 years ago. As a leading producer, some might think they could rest on their laurels. But they haven’t. Their latest release, the 2011, has the trademark vibrancy and zestiness of Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region, but also has mouth-filling texture and length that sets it apart. … Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay 2010
($15): Although not labeled “unoaked,” as is the current trend, brisk green apple notes suggest it might be. But discreet hints of toastiness demonstrate it’s not and offer a delicate complement. This bright and brisk wine, Chateau Ste. Michelle, “entry level” Chardonnay, is an excellent buy.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay “Indian Wells” 2009
($19): 
Chateau Ste. Michelle uses the Indian Wells moniker for their more upscale bottlings, which they describe on their website as “the lush and opulent New World style.” It is more lush and opulent than their very good regular Chardonnay (also reviewed this week), but by no means overdone. … Read more
Buty Winery, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Phinney Hill Vineyard “Columbia Rediviva” 2008
($50): Columbia Rediviva was the name of the ship that Captain Robert Gray sailed up the then unnamed river in 1792 searching for the ever elusive 
northwest passage. To recognize the importance of the river, Caleb Foster and Nina Buty Foster, owners of the winery, chose it for the name of one of their top wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Syrah blend. … Read more
Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese 2010
($26, Loosen Bros. USA): The absence of a grape name on the label means, by law, the wine is made from Riesling, Germany’s most revered grape. And this is a quintessential Riesling from the steep banks of the Mosel River. Vibrant and fruity, a hint of sweetness amplifies its mineral aspect and makes it ideal as a stand-alone aperitif or with spicy Asian fare. … Read more
Estancia, Central Coast (California) Merlot 2009
($12): Estancia manages to capture beautifully both the leafy earthy character of Merlot as well as its black fruit side. Black cherry-like acidity keeps it fresh and vibrant throughout the meal. The tannins are supple. It’s quite an amazing wine for the price.… Read more
Sardinia: Italy’s Other Island
“People can’t find Sardinia on a map,” complained Valentina Argiolas, a member of the family that owns Sardinia’s leading winery. She was speaking literally in describing the fundamental hurdle producers need to overcome to sell their wines. At a recent tasting and seminar of Sardinian wines in San Francisco and again in Japan, she was mortified when the map the organizers projected onto the screen failed to show Italy’s second largest island. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2009
($22, Kobrand): 
Craggy Range specializes in making wines from grapes grown in a single vineyard to capture the uniqueness of place. This one, their Bordeaux blend of Merlot (80%), Cabernet Franc (12%) Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) and Malbec, is a terrific argument for their philosophy. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Vineyards 2009
($25): Rodney Strong was a pioneer in the Alexander Valley, showing how this part of Sonoma can make beautiful Cabernet. This rendition continues their streak with generous, but not overdone, plum-like flavors accented with attractive herbal notes. Suave tannins lend support without astringency.… Read more
BenMarco, Mendoza (Argentina) 2009
($20, Vine Connections): Argentina does produce red wine without using Malbec. And good ones at that. Here one of them. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) and equal amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this young and vigorous wine is filled with spice and black fruit flavors. … Read more
Mapema, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2009
($19, Vine Connections): This Malbec is a refreshing change from the overly ripe, sweet ones that 
bombard the market. Instead layers of fruit intermingle with smoky and earthy notes. There are even attractive slightly bitter cherry notes in the finish. It’s another good option for robust dishes.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2008
($16): Chateau Ste. Michelle, a consistently top-notch producer, has made another easy-to-recommend wine with this Merlot. A touch (7%) of Syrah adds warmth and just the right amount of heft. Toasty and suave, this forward fruity wine has ripe tannins that add structure without aggressiveness.… Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah 2008
($13): Those who think that Syrah, as a varietal wine, has not lived up to its potential in the USA should try this one. As is the custom in the Northern Rhône, Chateau Ste Michelle has included a small amount (5%) of Viognier in the blend, which accounts for its lovely floral aspect. … Read more
Pfaffl Wine Estate, Weinviertel (Niederösterreich, Austria) St. Laurent Altenberg Vineyard 2007
($44, Palm Bay International): St. Laurent, a grape related to Pinot Noir according to DNA profiling, is gaining popularity in Austria. After tasting this splendid example, it’s 
easy to see why. It’s a harmonious marriage of sweet and savory notes, with even a trace of a bitter cherry finish. … Read more
Tapeña, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Garnacha 2010
($10, Freixenet USA): Tapeña’s Tempranillo (also reviewed this week) their Garnacha is another easy-to-recommend bargain. Slightly lighter than the Tempranillo with red, as opposed to dark, fruit flavors predominating, it has the same uplifting acidity and charm. It will be a crowd pleaser on the Thanksgiving table.… Read more
Tapeña, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo 2010
($10, Freixenet USA): Usually wines with cutesy names and labels disappoint. The name of this one, suggestive of tapas, and the fork on the label qualifies for cutesy. But the wine most definitely does not disappoint. It’s a mid-weight cheery wine with attractive bitter dark cherry-tinged notes and fresh acidity that offsets the fruitiness. … Read more
Bodega Elena de Mendoza, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2010
($11, Wine Brokers Unlimited): Malbec is all the rage these days. Most, especially at this price, are just 
overdone big red wines. This one, in contrast, with a stated alcohol of 13.8%, is certainly fruity and bold, but not over the top and actually has complexity with layers of flavors. … Read more
Pfaffl Wine Estate, Weinviertel (Niederösterreich, Austria) Gruner Veltliner Haidviertel Vineyard 2010
($20, Palm Bay Imports): 
One of the leaders in Weinviertel region, Pfaffl is a family owned estate just outside of Vienna that makes an array of lovely wines. This one, from a single vineyard in the town of Stetten overlooking the Danube, reminds us that Grüner Veltliner, as difficult as it may be to pronounce, is a varietal worth remembering. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay Kidnapper’s Vineyard 2010
($22, Kobrand): 
Craggy Range is one of New Zealand’s top producers. They focus on single-vineyard wines and have the uncanny ability to make distinctive wines from a broad range of grape varieties, both white and red. This is one of them. … Read more
Frisk, Alpine Valleys (Victoria, Australia) Riesling ‘Prickly’ 2011
($11, Old Bridge Cellars): The label rightly informs you it’s prickly, courtesy of a natural spritziness. What the label fails to mention is that it’s a touch sweet. Not in a cloying way—actually a quite attractive sweetness—but a surprising one nonetheless. … Read more
Bodega Elena, Mendoza (Argentina) Chardonnay 2010
($11, Wine Brokers Unlimited): It’s always refreshing to find a Chardonnay at this price that is worth recommending. A touch of Sauvignon Blanc in the blend might account for its lighter, more vivid signature. Whatever the reason, it’s a fine choice when ordering “a glass of Chardonnay” or you need something less expensive for a large crowd.… Read more
Crios, Mendoza (Argentina) Torrontes 2011
($15, Vine Connections): Susana Balbo, owner of the Dominio del Plata winery (aka Crios), must be
one of Argentina’s best winemakers. With the 2011 vintage, she handed the pipette to her son, José Lovaglio, who, judging by this wine, is every bit as talented. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2010
($22, Kobrand): While the Marlborough region gets lots of acclaim—rightly so—for their Sauvignon Blanc, let’s not overlook Martinborough, literally a stone’s throw away on the southern tip of the North Island. Craggy Range’s 2010 from its Te Muna Road Vineyard is simply dazzling. … Read more
Starborough, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2010
($15, Starborough Vineyards): This zippy wine delivers just the right dollop of clean citrus-tinged notes and herbal pungency. It’s a well-priced introduction to the allure of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and a good choice for simply grilled fish. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2011… Read more
Vidal-Fleury, Côte-Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) “Brune et Blonde” 2005
($74, W J Deutsch): 
The popularity–and price–of Côte-Rôtie has skyrocketed recently. In 1971, the appellation consisted of only 140 acres and was shrinking. Currently it covers about 500 acres, divided principally between the steep slopes behind the town of Ampuis, named Côte Blonde and Côte Brune because of the sandy/limestone soil of the former and the iron containing clay soil of the latter. … Read more
Pfaffl Wine Estate, Niederösterreich (Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Austrian Pepper” 2010
($15, Palm Bay International): One of the leaders in Weinviertel, a subregion of the Niederösterreich, Pfaffl is a family owned estate just outside of Vienna that deserves their fine reputation. This, what they refer to as their “entry level” wine is a stunning example of a bargain-priced Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s signature white grape. … Read more
Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling “Mort’s Block” 2009
($35, Old Bridge Cellars): One of my biggest surprises tasting wines was discovering how good Australian Riesling is. The conventional wisdom is that Australia is hot (an overly broad generalization), and that Riesling needs cool climate (not always, it turns out). … Read more
Our Burgeoning Wine Culture
Despite the economic turmoil, wine consumption in the United States continues to increase. Up only a mere one percent in 2010, according to the Wine Market Council, but that was enough to make us the world’s largest wine market, surpassing France. … Read more
Château de Jau, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Languedoc, France) 2008
($13, Pasternak Wine Imports): The usual Mediterranean suspects, Syrah (45%), Mourvèdre (30%), Carignan (15%), and Grenache, come together here to form a winning combination. There’s a wild strawberry-like fruitiness coupled with engaging earthy notes for added complexity. Nicely polished tannins make this mid-weight red easy to enjoy now. … Read more