($13, Michael Skurnick Wines): I hear the skeptics. A four-year-old Muscadet from what subregion? Côtes de Grandlieu is a far smaller subregion within Muscadet than the more famous Sèvre et Maine. It’s a slightly warmer area because its stony soil acts as a heat pump at night and its location between the Loire a large lake moderates the climate. … Read more
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Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Spätlese Kiedrich Gräfenberg 2010
($63, Loosen Bros, USA): This is classic German Riesling, combining ripe peach-like notes with racy invigorating acidity. Despite the ripe fruitiness indicated by the Spätlese indication (late harvest), its acidity makes it a lovely match for roast pork, sushi, and spiced Asian fare. … Read more
Burgundy Update: Tiny 2012 Yields Presage a Pricey Future
“The most expensive vintage ever,” was how Louis-Fabrice Latour, President of the prestigious Beaune-based négociant, Maison Louis Latour, and current head of the association of Burgundy négociants, described the 2012 vintage in Burgundy. “Yields are down by 60% in many areas and we [négociants] are paying growers up to 30% more,” he explained.… Read more
Remy Pannier, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2010
($11, Palm Bay International): Muscadet remains one of the bargain sections of any wine list or wine shop. Located on the Atlantic coast on the western end of the Loire River, its wines have been paired traditionally with the local seafood. … Read more
Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2009
($22, Frederick Wildman): Bourgogne Rouge comes from the least well-sited vineyards in Burgundy, ones that frequently don’t produce fully ripe grapes. The virtue of the 2009 vintage is that the warmth of the growing season ripened grapes even in the least desirable parcels. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Juliénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($19, Frederick Wildman): Juliénas, one of the ten named cru of Beaujolais, benefitted, like the rest of Burgundy, from the perfect 2009 growing season. And Potel-Aviron, one of the region’s most consistent producers, produced stunning 2009s. You can basically choose his 2009s blindfolded. … Read more
Domaine Lamarche, Clos de Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2010
($170, Jeanne-Marie des Champs Selection): The producer is always important in selecting Burgundy, but especially when buying wine labeled Clos de Vougeot. The quality of the wines coming from this famed grand cru varies enormously because the vineyard is large and is divided among more than 60 owners. … Read more
Alex Gambal, Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2008
($235, Ruby Wine): Alex Gambal’s new winemaker, Geraldine Godot, has brought his red wines to a new level. She modestly told me she didn’t make this wine. She just “raised” it. Well, she did an excellent job. It has superb weight and length, befitting a grand cru, with none of the hardness or angularity that plagued some 2008 reds. … Read more
Weingut Baron Knyphausen, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Kabinett “Baron K” 2011
($18): The trend over the years among top German producers has been to simplify the label by omitting the village and vineyard and just informing the consumer of the region. Fortunately in this instance, Knyphausen has not simplified the wine. It’s a classic Rheingau Riesling, lacey with captivating flavors of ripe white peaches and enough acidity to balance its fruitiness. … Read more
Greywacke, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Wild” 2010
($29, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Just when you thought there were enough New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on the market, another one grabs your attention with its grandeur and complexity. It has a bit of everything, an alluring hint of flintiness, a delicate creaminess and vibrant acidity, and not too much of anything. … Read more
Domaine du Closel, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) “La Jalousie” Château des Vaults 2010
($25, Louis/Dressner): Savennières is a dry, taut and focused expression of Chenin Blanc. This wine proves the rule, and for an accessible price. The lean mineral nose translates to the palate. A few minutes’ wait allows the characteristic lanolin, quince, Granny Smith apple, and Anjou pear notes to emerge. … Read more
Sherwood Estate, Waipara Valley (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Clearwater” 2010
($28, Sherwood Estate Wines USA): New Zealand continues to be a source for excellent Pinot Noir. And this one, from Canterbury, another area well suited to the varietal, is just another example. It delivers charm and grace as well as the almost paradoxical combination of fruit and savory notes. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($15): This Sauvignon Blanc delivers a lot of complexity for the price. Pleasantly pungent, richness and a solid body balances the grapefruit-like tanginess. It has unusual length for a $15 wine. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2012… Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2011
($23): Both the Sauvignon Blanc (the SB of the SBS) and Semillon (the S) speak 
clearly, but neither dominates in this beautifully polished wine. Sauvignon Blanc explains the wine’s brightness and vibrancy while Semillon’s presence is clear from the creamy lanolin-like texture. … Read more
Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha “Viñas Viejas” 2009
($20, Las Rocas USA): In addition to added complexity, the old vines (viñas viejas) used for this bottling provide riper grapes that translates into a bigger, more robust wine than their regular bottling (previously reviewed). Despite an added tarry component and more power, its additional class prevents it from going over the top. … Read more
Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Red Blend 2009
($14, Las Rocas USA): The label gives no indication of the blend, but frankly, Las Rocas makes such consistently good value-packed wine, that whatever blend they select is fine with me. This one is the lightest–but certainly not vapid–of their current trio of releases. … Read more
Abacela, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Tempranillo 2009
($21): Tempranillo, Spain’s leading premium red grape, is a recent addition to Oregon vineyards. Judging from this example, growers will be planting more. Juicy and fruity, Abacela’s has a pleasant tang that gives it structure and prevents it from coming across as jammy. … Read more
Domaine Huet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) Le Mont “Sec” 2010
($32, The Rare Wine Company): If this were hockey, this wine would have scored a hat trick (three goals in a game by a single player for the non-hockey fans)–a great producer, a great vineyard and a great vintage. The problem with Vouvray in general is the difficulty knowing the level of sweetness of the wine from the label. … Read more
Joaquín Rebolledo, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2011
($15, Moolight Wine Company): 
The Valdeorras DO, nestled in the northwest corner of Spain, has yet to gain the widespread recognition it deserves as a prime locale for the Godello grape and the wonderfully piercing wine that is made from it. … Read more
Domaine Laroque, Cité de Carcassonne IGP (Languedoc, France) 2011
($11, Jean-Christophe Calvet Selection, Aquitaine Wine USA): This wine is a superb example of why it pays to listen to knowledgeable retailers or sommeliers. I had never heard of the IGP, Cité de Carcassonne, let along Domaine Laroque, an estate that specializes in Cabernet Franc, not one of the mainstay grapes of the south of France.… Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sweet Riesling “Harvest Select” 2011
($18): 
Sweet – yes, cloying – no. This long and refined wine has the requisite verve to carry the richness of late harvested grapes. Not heavy, it dances across the palate with remarkable balance. These people know how to make Riesling. … Read more
Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Catalonia (Spain) Garnacha 2009
($14, Las Rocas USA): Spain remains a leading source for high quality reasonably priced wines, such as this one. It’s a boisterous wine, suitable for grilled lamb and the like, but balances its 15.2% stated alcohol with more than just fruit flavors. … Read more
Sicily: Hotbed of Italian Innovation
Winemakers in Sicily bubble with enthusiasm and a sense of discovery the way Etna bubbles with lava and smoke. Three decades ago, Tuscany was Italy’s epicenter of experimentation. It was there that a revolution took place, expelling white grapes from Chianti, demonstrating the stand-alone greatness of Sangiovese, introducing French varieties as fuel for “Super Tuscan” wines, and propelling Brunello into stardom. … Read more
Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charta” 2011
($25, Valckenberg): Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charter” 2011 ($25, Valckenberg): Johannishof, a top-notch producer in the Rheingau, bottles a splendid array of single vineyard wines that never disappoint. This wine, in contrast, comes is a blend from several of their vineyards, not all of which are in the same villages. … Read more
Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charta” 2011
($25, Valckenberg): Weingut Johannishof, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Charter” 2011 ($25, Valckenberg): Johannishof, a top-notch producer in the Rheingau, bottles a splendid array of single vineyard wines that never disappoint. This wine, in contrast, comes is a blend from several of their vineyards, not all of which are in the same villages. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Dry Riesling 2011
($9): Year after year, Chateau Ste. Michelle produces a value-packed dry Riesling. 2011 was no exception. Flowery, with a hint of sweetness, great vibrant acidity gives it verve and keeps it in balance. Sip it by itself, have it with take-out sushi or spicy Asian cuisine. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Cold Creek Vineyard 2011
($20): 
This Riesling from Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cold Creek Vineyard has far more going on compared to their straight Columbia Valley bottling. Still, the balance of aromas of white flowers, peach-like fruitiness, and mouth-tingling vibrancy is there. These people know how to make Riesling.… Read more
Schloss Saarstein, Mosel (Mosel Valley, Germany) Riesling, Spätlese 2011
($38, Valckenberg): Schloss Saarstein, a vineyard owned exclusively (a monopole) by the producer of the same name, is one of Germany’s finest properties. Located in the village of Serrig high above the steeply terraced Saar River, Schloss Saarstein consistently produces extraordinary wines. … Read more
Carl Graff, Graacher Himmelreich (Mosel Valley, Germany) Riesling Spätlese 2011
($17, Valckenberg): The Himmelreich vineyard is one of the best ones in the village of Graach, in the Middle Mosel. Graff’s 2011 Spätlese, the epitome of Middle Mosel Riesling, is lacy and delicate, yet persistent. It delivers a fabulous combination of minerality and lemony citrus notes balanced by zesty acidity. … Read more
Maison Ambroise, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Rognet 2009
($121, Robert Kacher Selection): Maison Ambroise is a name you can trust in Burgundy. Their wines, from the lowliest appellation to the prestigious Grand Cru, such as this one, reflect the vintage and place beautifully. This gorgeous Corton Rognet is well structured with a solid core of dark minerality and luxurious, almost sweet, red and black fruit flavors. … Read more
Good Dirt, Yucky Dirt
As I drive around Alexander Valley with Ronald Du Preez, the assistant winemaker at Jordan Winery, he points across the road and exclaims enthusiastically, “That’s really good dirt,” or in an equally emphatic manner, “that’s yucky dirt over there.” He is expressing a paradigm shift in California winemaking philosophy that’s exemplified by Jordan’s now virtually complete transformation from an “estate” winery to one that buys almost all of their grapes from local farmers.… Read more
Domaine de la Tour du Bon, Bandol (Provence, France) Rosé 2011
($20, Kermit Lynch): This serious rosé, a Mourvèdre dominant (55%) blend that includes other typical Mediterranean varieties of Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan, will convert those few remaining people (myself included) who believe rosés are inherently insipid. This one certainly is not–it’s real wine with herbal notes that complement the berry flavors. … Read more
Alamos, Salta (Argentina) Torrontés 2011
($13, Alamos USA): Despite representing only about 10 percent of Argentina’s white wine 
vineyards, Torrontés is rapidly becoming that country’s signature white wine grape. In Alamos’s current rendition, floral, Muscat-like aromas leap from the glass. Bright acidity prevents the ever so slight hint of sweetness from turning cloying and adds overall balance. … Read more
J. J. Prüm, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2011
($24, Valckenberg): J. J. Prüm, one of the very best producers in the Mosel, makes a consistently stunning array of vineyard designated wines, such as Wehlener Sonnenuhr or Graacher Himmelreich. You can buy them year in and year out and never be disappointed. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) NV
($22, Quintessential Wines): Crémant d’Alsace, especially from a top producer like Lorentz, is a under-
appreciated category. Less “serious” than Champagne, this is a creamy, soothing bubbly that is perfect for summer sipping. Dry and invigorating, without being astringent or aggressive, it works equally well with grilled fish or other main courses as it does as an aperitif.… Read more
Gérard Bertrand, Vin de Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) “Cigalus” 2009
($40, USA Wine West): One of the exciting things about the Vin de Pays wines is the flexibility the producer has compared to the rigid regulations of an Appellation d’origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine. With Cigalus, Gérard Bertrand has made the unconventional blend of Chardonnay (80%), Viognier (15%) and Sauvignon Blanc that works to create a stylish white wine. … Read more
Gérard Bertrand, Corbières Boutenac (Languedoc, France) “La Forge” 2009
($70, USA Wine West): Gérard Bertrand is one of the winemaking stars in the Languedoc. La Forge, his flagship red, is a blend of old (100-year) vine Carignan and Syrah from a single vineyard on his estate, Domaine de Villemajou in newly recognized appellation, Corbières Boutenac, carved out of Corbières because of its distinctive terroir. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2011
($20): Dr. Loosen, the famed German producer, and Chateau Ste. Michelle joined forces over a decade ago with the aim of making a stunning Riesling in Washington. Well, they’ve succeeded and its name is Eroica. The 2011, which may be their best ever, has a brilliant combination of lacey fruitiness–an almost Spätlese ripeness–offset by riveting acidity. … Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2009
($40, Kobrand): A special bottling to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, this Beaune Premier Cru is a blend of approximately 20 different premier cru vineyards, according to Frédéric Barnier, Jadot’s new technical director who will be replacing the legendary Jacques Lardière next year. … Read more
Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, California (United States) Arneis 2011
($16): The Arneis grape, originally grown in Piedmont and used to “soften” Barolo and now used there as a stand alone white wine, has migrated in tiny quantities to California and Oregon. Jacuzzi has made a lively and vivacious wine from this normally low acid grape. … Read more
Maison Ambroise, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Aires” 2009
($20, Robert Kacher Selection): The source–a fifth of the wine comes from the appellations of Nuits St Georges and Cotes de Nuits Village–and the 45 year average age of the vines explains why this wine is so remarkable. This very fragrant Bourgogne Rouge delivers an enchanting combination of red fruit flavors and earthy herbal notes. … Read more
Seifried, Nelson (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($18, Pacific Prime): 92 Michael Apstein Aug 1, 2012… Read more
Greywacke, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2010
($39, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Kevin Judd, the founding winemaker at Cloudy Bay, the winery that put New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on the world’s wine map, shows with this wine that he can also make distinctive Pinot Noir. After 25 years at Cloudy Bay, Judd and his wife, Kimberly, established Greywacke in 2009. … Read more
Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton (Burgundy, France) 2010
($94, Henriot, Inc.): Philippe Prost, Bouchard’s winemaker, has outdone himself with this Corton. A beautifully structured frame supports luxuriously ripe dark fruit. Subtle bitter cherry notes emerge from beneath polished tannins. A savory component in the finish adds to the intrigue.… Read more
Domaine Michel Lafarge, Côte de Beaune Villages (Burgundy, France) 2009
($34, Becky Wasserman Selection): Lafarge, a world-renowned producer of Volnay, makes other wines, albeit in small quantities. They are so good they are worth the search, especially in the case of this Côte de Beaune Villages, which is reasonably priced, at least for Burgundy and Lafarge. … Read more
Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2010
($160): Although a famous Grand Cru, Clos Vougeot is the source of highly variable wines because of the vast number of growers who own vines in this famed vineyard. Indeed, the Burgundy mantra of producer, producer, producer is doubly important here because the wines are never inexpensive. … Read more
Negroamaro: Black & Bitter from Italy’s Heel
“Black and bitter.” It certainly wasn’t a name create by a public relations firm. To be fair, Luigi Rubino, President of the Puglia Best Wine Consortium points out the name really means “black and black” from both the Latin (negro) and Greek (amaro) for black. … Read more
Laurenz, Niederösterreich (Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Singing” 2010
($16, Folio Fine Wine Partners): With over a third of Austrian vineyards planted with it, Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature grape. Laurenz’s version, dubbed Singing, has a lovely combination of delicate floral notes offset by subtle peppery ones. An alluring restraint and austerity make it a welcome change from the over ripe and overdone white wines that seem to be commonplace today. … Read more
Warre’s, Porto (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage 2001
($30, Vineyard Brands): Late Bottled Vintage Port, or LBV as it is commonly known, is an ideal way to savor some of the glories of Vintage Port without waiting the 
requisite two or three decades for the latter to mature in the bottle. … Read more
Bodegas Arrayán, Méntrida (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) “Selección” 2009
($20, Viño Cava): Méntrida, a small DO in the large Castilla-La Mancha region, is starting to rediscover itself. Although Garnacha is the most widely planted grape, some producers, such as Bodegas Arrayán, are experimenting with the so-called international varieties. Bodegas Arrayán, at least, seems to be making it work. … Read more