Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Isabel Mondavi, Carneros (California) Chardonnay 2012

($30): Carneros, the cool region at the southern end of both the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, is well recognized as a great place for Chardonnay, a variety that likes cooler climate.  Rob Mondavi, Jr., the winemaker and grandson of legendary Robert Mondavi, says he purchases grapes from growers in the Sonoma Valley portion of Carneros and blends them with their estate grapes from the Napa Valley portion of Carneros because the Sonoma grapes add a different dimension. … Read more

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2012

($65, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre is one of the top producers in Chablis.  They eschew oak aging preferring to focus on the bracing minerality unique to the Chablis region, which gives their wines a lean, racy edginess.  The 2012 vintage was especially well suited to their style because it delivered fully ripe grapes with slightly lower apparent acidity, which meant that some producers’ wines lacked the usual verve of Chablis. … Read more

Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012

($26): Jean Marc Brocard, always one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a stunning array of wines in 2012.  This one, from old vines, whose average age is 68 years, is one of the best village Chablis I’ve ever had.  With wonderful intensity–but no heaviness–and balance, it has penetration, energy and extraordinary length, especially for a village wine. … Read more

Jean Paul Brun, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012

($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation.  The vast majority of Beaujolais — I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru — are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice.  But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements. … Read more

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012

($29): Duckhorn has always focused on Merlot.  And their Merlots are terrific.  But Duckhorn is not a one-trick pony, as this Sauvignon Blanc shows.  Beautifully balanced, it combines richness and edginess.  A touch of Semillon — anywhere from 15 to 20 percent — is included in the blend, which provides lushness without obliterating the pleasant and uplifting bite of Sauvignon.… Read more

Maison Alex Gambal, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012

($45, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Chorey-lès-Beaune, like Savigny-lès-Beaune, is another good source of reasonably — for Burgundy — priced wines.  The wines from Chorey tend to be a touch more robust than those from Savigny.  Gambal’s Chorey-lès-Beaune conveys more black fruit than red and has an engaging immediate impact, without sacrificing any of what has become the purity and elegance that marks Geraldine Godot’s winemaking. … Read more

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

($63): Though Duckhorn has focused on Merlot since their inception, their Cabernets demonstrate that the winery is hardly a one-trick pony.  This classic Napa Valley Cabernet is firm without being aggressive.  Deeply flavored, it’s not over the top, but well-balanced delivering a mélange of black fruit flavors and herbal, savory — almost black olive type — notes. … Read more

Decoy, Napa County (California) Red Wine 2011

($25): Decoy is Duckhorn’s little sister winery that focuses on wines that are meant to be consumed immediately after release.  And this supple mid-weight wine is just that.  But like a decoy, it fools you.  Though you might think that a wine labeled “Red Wine” would be a non-descript commodity, this is far from that, offering good structure that balances its engaging fruitiness. … Read more

Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Arthur” 2012

($32):  The Chardonnay — and the Pinot Noir for that matter — from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, the outpost of one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, both have the elegance and finesse of the mother ship.  The 2012 Arthur, named after winemaker Véronique Drouhin’s son, is paradoxically lush and restrained. … Read more

Paul Hobbs, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2011

($45): Creamy and seductive, this stylish Chardonnay will convince anyone that the Russian River Valley can produce wonderful Chardonnay.  Of course, Paul Hobbs, one of California’s star winemakers, had something to do with it.  Intense without being overt or overdone, the combination of subtle fruitiness and minerality, caresses the palate. … Read more

Mulderbosch, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2011

($17, Cape Classics): Cutting and piercing in an attractive way, Mulderbosch’s Sauvignon Blanc is the ideal foil for spicy Asian fare.  It will cut through anything on the plate, without being overshadowed, and reawaken any palate.  Its laser-like cut is startling without being aggressive or sharp and actually reinforces the wine’s flavors — an unusual combination to say the least.… Read more

Gascón, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2012

($15, Gascon USA): Gascón’s Malbecs have gotten more interesting over the years.  Years ago, when they first made their appearance on these shores, I dismissed them as big simple red wines.  The current version, the 2012, is still big, but simplicity has been replaced by an intriguing floral character, subtle dark cherry-like notes and even an appealing hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more

Fontodi, IGT Colli Toscana Centrale (Italy) “Flaccianello della Pieve” 2010

($120, Vinifera Imports): Flaccianello is the flagship wine from Fontodi, a superb producer located in the Conca d’Oro (the golden shell) or heart of the Chianti Classico region.  This pure Sangiovese beauty comes from their best grapes.  Giovanni Manetti says they look for the smallest bunches, usually found on the vines at the top of their vineyards, that provide a better ratio of skin to juice. … Read more

Castello Banfi, IGP Toscana (Italy) “Cum Laude” 2010

($33, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, also makes excellent wines from outside of that revered DOCG zone.  This one, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah, clearly nods toward the “modern” style with lush red and black fruit flavors, but still has an complementary and intriguing Brunello-like dark, earthy, almost chocolaty component. … Read more

Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Poggio” 2009

($55, MW Imports): Il Poggio, a 13-acre single-vineyard that sits about 1,000 feet above sea level, is the source of Monsanto’s flagship wine.  The 2009, from a ripe vintage, is positively explosive with a captivating smoky and mineraly quality.  Racy acidity balances the ripeness so there’s no mistaking it for anything but great Chianti Classico. … Read more

Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria (Sicily, Italy) 2011

($23, Palm Bay International): Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only wine to be awarded the DOCG status, is a blend of two indigenous grapes, Nero d’Avola and Frappato.  Planeta’s 2011 begs for springtime with its fresh cherry-like aromas and taste.  The paucity of tannins in this charming red makes it perfect for chilling and a more substantial alternative to rosé when the weather and the food call for one.… Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Chanfleure” 2011

($22, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains one of the best bargains for white Burgundy and this one from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, should be snapped up.  This village Chablis — Chanfleure is the name of the pipette used to extract wine from a barrel for tasting — is clean and crisp with underlying invigorating minerality and a zesty lemony finish. … Read more