($25, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Chablis remains one of, if not the best, values for white wine. Always made exclusively from Chardonnay, Chablis, when produced by dedicated growers such as Christian Moreau, delivers a unique profile of flintiness and verve, even at this lower end of the prestige ladder. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2012
($28): Sequoia Grove has successfully walked a fine line by producing this restrained, but not eviscerated, Chardonnay. Indeed, the hint of creaminess becomes more even engaging because it doesn’t fight heavier, more obvious flavors. Enlivening acidity in the finish keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. … Read more
Isabel Mondavi, Carneros (California) Chardonnay 2012
($30): Carneros, the cool region at the southern end of both the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, is well recognized as a great place for Chardonnay, a variety that likes cooler climate. Rob Mondavi, Jr., the winemaker and grandson of legendary Robert Mondavi, says he purchases grapes from growers in the Sonoma Valley portion of Carneros and blends them with their estate grapes from the Napa Valley portion of Carneros because the Sonoma grapes add a different dimension. … Read more
Adami, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Bosco di Gica Brut NV
($18, Dalla Terra): The oceans of Prosecco on the market combined with the indiscriminate use of that term makes that category of Italian sparkling wine a minefield. One sure way to avoid an unpleasant experience is to reach for a wine made by Adami, one of the region’s top producers, which bottles a fine range of Prosecco. … Read more
Antonelli San Marco, Sagrantino di Montefalco (Umbria, Italy) 2008
($35): Antonelli’s viticultural and winemaking techniques result in a more elegant Sagrantino, often a wine with ferocious tannins. This Sagrantino is, indeed, less extracted and slightly less muscular than many. But not at the expense of minerality and earthiness, that really borders on an alluring tarry aspect. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2012
($65, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre is one of the top producers in Chablis. They eschew oak aging preferring to focus on the bracing minerality unique to the Chablis region, which gives their wines a lean, racy edginess. The 2012 vintage was especially well suited to their style because it delivered fully ripe grapes with slightly lower apparent acidity, which meant that some producers’ wines lacked the usual verve of Chablis. … Read more
Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($26): Jean Marc Brocard, always one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a stunning array of wines in 2012. This one, from old vines, whose average age is 68 years, is one of the best village Chablis I’ve ever had. With wonderful intensity–but no heaviness–and balance, it has penetration, energy and extraordinary length, especially for a village wine. … Read more
Jean Paul Brun, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation. The vast majority of Beaujolais — I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru — are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice. But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements. … Read more
Migration, Sonoma Coast (California) Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard 2012
($55): Migration is one of Duckhorn’s outposts in Northern California for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Dan and Margaret Duckhorn knew, perhaps ahead of their time, that Napa Valley, their home, was great for certain grapes, but a less ideal place for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which excel in cooler climates, such as Sonoma Coast. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($29): Duckhorn has always focused on Merlot. And their Merlots are terrific. But Duckhorn is not a one-trick pony, as this Sauvignon Blanc shows. Beautifully balanced, it combines richness and edginess. A touch of Semillon — anywhere from 15 to 20 percent — is included in the blend, which provides lushness without obliterating the pleasant and uplifting bite of Sauvignon.… Read more
Maison Alex Gambal, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Grand Picotins” 2012
($50, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Savigny-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune, is a good source for authentic Burgundy. Alex Gambal, an American who is one of Burgundy’s rising stars, makes elegant and refined wines under the guidance of his winemaker, Geraldine Godot. … Read more
Maison Alex Gambal, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012
($45, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Chorey-lès-Beaune, like Savigny-lès-Beaune, is another good source of reasonably — for Burgundy — priced wines. The wines from Chorey tend to be a touch more robust than those from Savigny. Gambal’s Chorey-lès-Beaune conveys more black fruit than red and has an engaging immediate impact, without sacrificing any of what has become the purity and elegance that marks Geraldine Godot’s winemaking. … Read more
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2012
($27, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The 2012 vintage in Burgundy is good news/bad news. The good news is that, in general, the reds were excellent. The bad news is that the crop was decreased markedly by bad weather, which means much higher prices. … Read more
Decoy, Sonoma County (California) Pinot Noir 2012
($25): Finding authentic Pinot Noir at this price is a treat. All too often they are just sweet and fruity. Decoy’s — they do love to fool you — has modest and restrained fruitiness that allows the herbal, slightly savory, element that makes Pinot Noir so engaging.… Read more
Decoy, Sonoma County (California) Merlot 2012
($25): If anyone in California can make authentic Merlot, it should be Duckhorn Vineyards who focused on that varietal well before it became a household word. They make a marvelous one under their Decoy label. This 2012 is fleshy and ripe, with a lovely slightly bitter cherry note in the finish. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($63): Though Duckhorn has focused on Merlot since their inception, their Cabernets demonstrate that the winery is hardly a one-trick pony. This classic Napa Valley Cabernet is firm without being aggressive. Deeply flavored, it’s not over the top, but well-balanced delivering a mélange of black fruit flavors and herbal, savory — almost black olive type — notes. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2011
($54): Duckhorn made a name for itself with Merlot and continues to excel with that grape variety. Their 2011 Napa Valley bottling, made from a combination of their and purchased grapes, has real character, which puts it out of the “I’ll have a glass of Merlot before dinner” category. … Read more
Decoy, Napa County (California) Red Wine 2011
($25): Decoy is Duckhorn’s little sister winery that focuses on wines that are meant to be consumed immediately after release. And this supple mid-weight wine is just that. But like a decoy, it fools you. Though you might think that a wine labeled “Red Wine” would be a non-descript commodity, this is far from that, offering good structure that balances its engaging fruitiness. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (California) Pinot Noir Gowan Creek Vineyard 2011
($80): Goldeneye is Duckhorn Vineyard’s winery and estate in Anderson Valley that Dan and Margaret Duckhorn established in 1996. Duckhorn realized that if they wanted to make top notch Pinot Noir they needed to look elsewhere from their northern Napa Valley base, which was far too warm for that grape. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (California) Pinot Noir “Ten Degrees Vineyard” 2011
($115): Confusingly, the Ten Degrees Vineyard bottling does not come from a single vineyard, but rather is a blend of Goldeneye’s best lots from their four Anderson Valley vineyards, making it more like a “Reserve” bottling than an expression of a single discreet place. … Read more
Castello Banfi, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Belnero” 2010
($25, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the leading producers Brunello di Montalcino, introduced Belnero a few years ago. It is composed almost exclusively of Sangiovese, though small amounts of “international varieties” are included in the blend. It has gotten better and better over the years. … Read more
Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaulorent 2012
($60, Henriot, Inc.): The Vaulorent vineyard is the only premier cru vineyard that sits on the so-called Grand Cru hill of Chablis and is adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyards. Wines from this vineyard are frequently sold under the more recognized vineyard name, Fourchaume. … Read more
Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire” 2012
($20): Borcard hit a bull’s eye with their Chablis in 2012, a relatively riper year. They harvested a bit early and captured gorgeous mouth-watering acidity in their entire line of wines. Their village Chablis, dubbed Sainte Claire, is an extraordinary value given the complexity and verve it delivers. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Arthur” 2012
($32): The Chardonnay — and the Pinot Noir for that matter — from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, the outpost of one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, both have the elegance and finesse of the mother ship. The 2012 Arthur, named after winemaker Véronique Drouhin’s son, is paradoxically lush and restrained. … Read more
Paul Hobbs, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2011
($45): Creamy and seductive, this stylish Chardonnay will convince anyone that the Russian River Valley can produce wonderful Chardonnay. Of course, Paul Hobbs, one of California’s star winemakers, had something to do with it. Intense without being overt or overdone, the combination of subtle fruitiness and minerality, caresses the palate. … Read more
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (California) Brut NV
($22): Roederer Estate is certainly one of California’s best sparkling wineries. Part of the reason for its success is that their grapes come entirely from their vineyards, a rarity among Champagne or sparkling wine producers. Their non-vintage brut delivers a lovely creamy fruitiness without being soft or sweet. … Read more
MacMurray Ranch, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($28): MacMurray Ranch’s Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley offers up more herbal and spice elements, giving it more layers, compared to their Central Coast offering. Still the core delivers lush plum-like flavors. The combination of plush tannins and ripeness contributes to a subtle sweetness in the finish.… Read more
William Hill Estate Winery, North Coast (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($17): William Hill manages to combine cassis-like flavors with undertones of black olive-like note in this nicely balanced Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine. The tannins are fine and not intrusive, yet add just the right amount of structure. This bargain-priced wine is a perfect choice with lamb chops tonight.… Read more
MacMurray Ranch, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2012
($23): Though there’s a whiff of non-fruit notes in the nose, the focus here is clearly on ripe red/back fruit flavors. The wine’s plush texture makes it easy to sip before dinner. It’s a softer, fruit-forward, style of Pinot Noir that finishes slightly sweet because of its ripeness.… Read more
Mulderbosch, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($17, Cape Classics): Cutting and piercing in an attractive way, Mulderbosch’s Sauvignon Blanc is the ideal foil for spicy Asian fare. It will cut through anything on the plate, without being overshadowed, and reawaken any palate. Its laser-like cut is startling without being aggressive or sharp and actually reinforces the wine’s flavors — an unusual combination to say the least.… Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2012
($27, Dreyfus Ashby & Co): Pouilly Fuissé lacks the respect the appellation deserves. Sure, there’s lots of mediocre wine masquerading under the popular Pouilly Fuissé label. But one taste of Drouhin’s shows why this category is so popular. Drouhin’s 2012 is mineraly, lemony and stony. … Read more
Tomero, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($13, Blends Inc): Usually big sized reds, like this one, have big sized tannins to accompany the concentration. Not here. This is a big and ripe Cabernet with hardly noticeable tannins and sour cherry finish.
85 Michael Apstein Mar 11, 2014… Read more
Gascón, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2012
($15, Gascon USA): Gascón’s Malbecs have gotten more interesting over the years. Years ago, when they first made their appearance on these shores, I dismissed them as big simple red wines. The current version, the 2012, is still big, but simplicity has been replaced by an intriguing floral character, subtle dark cherry-like notes and even an appealing hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) “La Rocca” 2011
($30, Empson USA): Grapes from La Rocca vineyard are typically riper than from Pieropan’s Calvarino vineyard and explain why his La Rocca bottling is more intense. In contrast to Pieropan’s Calvarino Soave, La Rocca undergoes a little oak aging, which adds richness, without being obvious.… Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) “Calvarino” 2011
($30, Empson USA): After decades of mediocrity, which destroyed Soave’s image, the wines from that region are still struggling to regain their rightful reputation as fine white wines. Pieropan, one of the leading producers in the region, is one of the reasons why consumers are rediscovering these wines. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($23, Palm Bay International): Francesco Marone Cinzano, owner of Col d’Orcia, is very pleased with their 2012 Rosso–and they should be, because they hit the mark with this wine in a difficult year. Poor weather reduced the vines’ ability to ripe a full load of grapes, according to Cinzano. … Read more
Querciabella, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2011
($33, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Querciabella is always on my short list of top Chianti Classico producers. Their 2011 reinforces my opinion. True to their style of Chianti Classico, their charming 2011 is filled with ripe, dark cherry-like flavors and spice, yet avoids being heavy or overdone because of its vivacity. … Read more
Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2011
($25, Grape Expectations): Paolo de Marchi, owner, viticulturist and winemaker at Isole e Olena, makes only two Sangiovese-based wines. This one and his super stellar Cepparello. Since he stopped making a Chianti Classico Riserva more than 25 years ago, the Sangiovese that doesn’t go into Cepparello goes into his anything but normal, Chianti Classico.… Read more
Antonelli San Marco, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2010
($17): Sagrantino di Montefalco is a tannic muscular red wine because that’s the nature of the Sagrantino grape. Those who enjoy that style of wine gravitate toward young wine from that DOCG. Those who prefer something less bruising either need to age their Sagrantino di Montefalco or reach for a Montefalco Rosso, such as this one. … Read more
Castello Montauto, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($13, Banfi Imports): Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a light white wine, was the first to be awarded DOC status in 1966. Despite that accolade, it seems to have lost panache, which is too bad because it’s a great choice for a multitude of lighter styled seafood dishes. … Read more
Val delle Rose, Morellino di Scansano Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2009
($22, Banfi Imports): Though Tuscan and made from Sangiovese, the wines from Morellino di Scansano are far different from those of the Chianti region. The 2009 Val delle Rose Riserva is an excellent example, focusing more on dark, Bing cherry-like flavors more than the earthy spicy ones found in Chianti. … Read more
Fontodi, IGT Colli Toscana Centrale (Italy) “Flaccianello della Pieve” 2010
($120, Vinifera Imports): Flaccianello is the flagship wine from Fontodi, a superb producer located in the Conca d’Oro (the golden shell) or heart of the Chianti Classico region. This pure Sangiovese beauty comes from their best grapes. Giovanni Manetti says they look for the smallest bunches, usually found on the vines at the top of their vineyards, that provide a better ratio of skin to juice. … Read more
Castello Banfi, IGP Toscana (Italy) “Cum Laude” 2010
($33, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, also makes excellent wines from outside of that revered DOCG zone. This one, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah, clearly nods toward the “modern” style with lush red and black fruit flavors, but still has an complementary and intriguing Brunello-like dark, earthy, almost chocolaty component. … Read more
Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($25, MW Imports): Monsanto, a Tuscan producer that consistently turns out stellar wines, eschews the use of “international” varieties in their Chianti Classico. Monsanto’s 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva, a traditional blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino, delivers a wonderful combination of cherry-like fruitiness and spicy earthiness. … Read more
Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Poggio” 2009
($55, MW Imports): Il Poggio, a 13-acre single-vineyard that sits about 1,000 feet above sea level, is the source of Monsanto’s flagship wine. The 2009, from a ripe vintage, is positively explosive with a captivating smoky and mineraly quality. Racy acidity balances the ripeness so there’s no mistaking it for anything but great Chianti Classico. … Read more
Fontodi, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($35, Vinifera Imports): Combine a top vintage, 2010 in Tuscany, and a top Chianti Classico producer, Fontodi, and you get, not surprisingly, a top wine. There is plenty of deep red, almost black fruit flavors here and enough earthy spice and acidity to remind you this is still Chianti Classico — a very complex one at that. … Read more
Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria (Sicily, Italy) 2011
($23, Palm Bay International): Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only wine to be awarded the DOCG status, is a blend of two indigenous grapes, Nero d’Avola and Frappato. Planeta’s 2011 begs for springtime with its fresh cherry-like aromas and taste. The paucity of tannins in this charming red makes it perfect for chilling and a more substantial alternative to rosé when the weather and the food call for one.… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Chanfleure” 2011
($22, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains one of the best bargains for white Burgundy and this one from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, should be snapped up. This village Chablis — Chanfleure is the name of the pipette used to extract wine from a barrel for tasting — is clean and crisp with underlying invigorating minerality and a zesty lemony finish. … Read more
Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2012
($20, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Olivier Leflaive, a talented négociant based in Puligny-Montrachet, consistently produces top-notch white Burgundies at all levels. This east-to-enjoy Bourgogne Blanc, though coming from the low end of the prestige ladder, delivers far more than you’d expect from the price.… Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012
($15, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The yields in Beaujolais in 2012, were, like everywhere else in Burgundy, down dramatically. Stéphane estimates that the average yield in 2012 for Beaujolais in general was about 27 hl/ha, or half normal, which is both good and bad. … Read more