($12): Chaintré is one of the communes that comprise the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. If a wine comes exclusively from vineyards in the village, but lie outside of that famous appellation, they can carry the name of village instead of the more generic appellation of Mâcon-Villages. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Domaine Vaudon, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2015
($35, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The 2015 vintage in Burgundy was outstanding for both reds and whites. Reds belong in the cellar, while the whites are delicious for earlier drinking as this one demonstrates. Domaine Vaudon is the Drouhin estate in Chablis where they make sensational wines. … Read more
Buena Vista, Sonoma County (California) “The Count” Red Wine 2015
($20): If you haven’t visited Buena Vista since the new regime came to town, you should definitely stop in and see what Jean Charles Boisset is up to with the restoration, and you can meet the Count while you’re there. Make sure you ask him to taste you on his namesake’s wine — it’s a fitting tribute to the original Count Agoston Haraszthy, with a sassy spice profile joining bright red fruit. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2015
($23): After tasting this lovely Rully, a word Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson once used to describe a wine sprang to mind: “Delish!” Fresh and juicy, there’s not a hint of over-ripeness in mid-weight red. A hint of earthiness adds intrigue to this well-proportioned ready-to-drink village wine. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2016
($30): Mercurey, an often-overlooked village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to well-priced authentic Burgundy, both red and white. In this era of stratospheric prices for Burgundies, consumers should search for wines from this village. Château de Chamirey, one of the finest producers in the Côte Chalonnaise, made a superb array of Mercurey wines in 2016. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Maladière 2015
($35): This is the first vintage that Château de Chamirey decided to bottle wine from this 3.5-acre vineyard separately. Half went into this bottling, while the other half went into their village Mercurey blend. Although not from a premier cru vineyard, this 2015 tastes like a premier cru wine. … Read more
Domaine de Clos Salomon, Givrey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Salomon 2016
($35): Domaine Salomon is a — perhaps the — star in Givrey, yet another under-rated village in the Côte Chalonnaise. (Don’t confuse this village with Gevrey, as in Chambertin, in the Côte d’Or.) This wine, their flagship, hails from a 17.5-acre that they own exclusively. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay DVC Estate Block 10 2016
($32): Chardonnay lovers, listen up. And those who think they don’t care for Chardonnay should also lend an ear. There’s a delicacy to this wine that makes it very appealing. Its fruitiness is enhanced by a hint of seductive oakiness. It delivers richness without being overt, overdone or heavy handed. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Zinfandel “Heritage Vines” 2016
($24): Full disclosure, I’m not a fan of Zinfandel. So, it’s a dilemma when I come across one like this. I don’t personally like it, but that’s beside the point. It’s really good wine — a fine expression of Zinfandel. Sure, it’s bold — it is Zinfandel, after all — but tips the stated-alcohol scales at under 15%, which some would say makes it a bantam-weight for that varietal. … Read more
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Hilltop” 2015
($35): A touch (5%) of Petit Verdot and Malbec enhance this delightful Cabernet Sauvignon. Filled with dark fruit and olive-like savory notes, it’s ready to enjoy now because of its fine, polished tannins. Juicy acidity in the finish keeps it lively throughout the meal. … Read more
Cuvaison, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2015
($42): Although lovely herbal notes appear in this Pinot Noir, the focus is firmly footed on fruitiness. Suave mild tannins support the juicy red fruit nuances. The finish has a touch of sweetness, which makes the wine useful as a stand-alone glass before a meal.… Read more
La Crema, Arroyo Seco (Monterey, California) Pinot Noir Panorama Vineyard 2014
($40): Another fruit-focused Pinot Noir with good weight and a suave texture. Not overdone in the “Pinot Syrah” mode, it finishes a touch sweet, which I suspect is due in part to its 14.5% stated alcohol. Ready to drink now. I’d be sure to served it ever so slightly chilled to minimize the effect of the alcohol.… Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Confluence Vineyard 2015
($84): Though Goldeneye’s Pinot Noir from the Confluence Vineyard conveys more fruity elements than earthy ones, savory nuances appear and add complexity. Supple tannins lend support without intruding and bright acidity keeps it fresh. A touch of heat in the finish compared to their other single vineyard bottlings tempers my enthusiasm. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir The Narrows Vineyard 2015
($84): Goldeneye, one of Duckhorn’s many labels, has captured the delicacy and charm of Pinot Noir with this single vineyard bottling. Delicate, red fruit flavors dance on the palate. Beautifully balanced, subtle bitter notes in the finish complement the sense of sweetness from its fruitiness. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Split Rail Vineyard 2015
($84): Goldeneye’s single vineyard bottlings actually reflect the difference in sites. Theirs is not a marketing ploy. This one, for example, is denser and more concentrated, conveying more black rather than red fruit, compared to one from The Narrows Vineyard. Yet it still conveys the delicacy that makes Pinot Noir so alluring. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Gowan Creek Vineyard 2015
($84): Showing that you can never judge a wine by the numbers, Goldeneye’s Gowan Creek Vineyard bottling weighs in at a hefty 14.9% stated alcohol yet does not finish hot. Nor is it overdone. Indeed, it’s a balanced mixture of black fruit flavors and earthy savory ones. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2014
($45): Unlike a Riserva in Italy, Reserve on a label on a California wine has no legal meaning. A winery can, and sometimes does, label their entire production, all several million bottles, as “reserve.” Not so with Rodney Strong. In this case, the winemaker selects the best barrels in the cellar and blends them to create a Reserve bottling. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2016
($118, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Vaudésir, along with Le Clos, sit atop most critics’ lists — certainly mine — of top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. To me, the wines from Vaudésir, in the hands of the best producers, combine power with elegance and epitomize the stature of Grand Cru classification. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2016
($48, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Vaillon is a large well-known 1er cru vineyard on the Left Bank in Chablis that is composed of many plots. Christian Moreau’s plot, where the average age of the vines is 56 years, according to their website, is in the heart of the vineyard. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon “Cuvée Guy Moreau” 2016
($75, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Fabien Moreau, the current winemaker, says that this portion of their plot in the Vaillon vineyard was planted by his grandfather, Guy, 83 years ago and contain the oldest vines of their estate. Located on the steepest part of the slope, the vines have excellent exposure and drainage. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) 2016
($25, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Aviron’s Moulin-à-Vent dazzles with a paradoxical firmness and fleshiness. The tannins are fine, not hard or astringent. You can almost taste the granitic soil of this cru in this tightly wound wine. Uplifting brightness in the finish amplifies its appeal.… Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Morgon (Burgundy, France) Côte de Py 2016
($25, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Morgon, along with Moulin-à-Vent, are the two cru that produce the sturdiest wines that often need several years of bottle age to show their true beauty. The Côte de Py is an area within Morgon made of black volcanic soil that imparts an austere mineral-like quality to the wines. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Juliénas (Burgundy, France) 2016
($21, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): While not as ripe and fleshy as the 2015 wines from Beaujolais, the 2016s are racier while maintaining charm for which the region is known. Aviron’s Juliénas borrows a bit of the density of his Chénas and combines it with an alluring spice. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Chénas (Burgundy, France) 2016
($22, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Stéphane Aviron makes wines from many of the crus of Beaujolais, the ten villages that have the potential to produce distinctive wines that stand apart from those labeled Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages. (Indeed, wines from these villages rarely put Beaujolais on the label.) … Read more
Steele, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Blanc 2016
($19): Consumers often avoid Pinot Blanc because they are disappointed by the light weight, often innocuous wine made from that grape. Well, if you’ve been one of those, you’ll want to grab this one to know what real Pinot Blanc tastes like. … Read more
Murrieta’s Well, Livermore Valley (California) “The Whip” 2015
($24): The unusual blend here, roughly 30 percent each of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Chardonnay, with Viognier and Muscat Canelli contributing the rest, works well. Subtle aromatics are intriguing and lead you into a wine with hints of stone fruits and a glossy texture. … Read more
Steele, Lake County (North Coast, California) Viognier 2016
($19): Viognier is a tough grape to turn into wine. It needs adequate ripeness to express its floral character, which often is accompanied by high alcohol from higher sugar levels. Its traditional home is in Condrieu in the Rhône Valley. Jed Steele has mastered it in Lake County. … Read more
Cuvaison, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Adda” 2015
($50): Cuvaison was one of the early wineries to discover the virtues of Carneros, one of the coolest areas of Napa Valley. They planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir there 40 years ago and have enormous experience with how those varieties fare there. … Read more
J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey, California) Chardonnay “Riverstone” 2016
($14): This well-priced Chardonnay is another excellent value from J. Lohr. Overt, but not oily or overdone, it weighs in at a modest 13.5 percent-stated alcohol, which helps explain its balance. Fruity and toasty flavors predominate and make it a crowd-pleasing choice for broiled fish.… Read more
J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Sauvignon Blanc “Flume Crossing” 2016
($14): J. Lohr has managed to combine a pleasing pungency tempered by a subtle sweetness in this Sauvignon Blanc. Nicely priced, it could do double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or as an accompaniment to a roast chicken. A fine value.… Read more
Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Lyndenhurst” 2014
($85): I suppose you could call Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst their second wine. The grapes used to make it come from their vineyards, presumably those that don’t make the cut for their flagship Spottswoode Cabernet, along with purchased fruit. The incredible quality of this wine shows just how fabulous a producer Spottswoode is. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($28): This Cabernet shows the diversity of wines coming from Dry Creek Vineyard. Compared to their 2013 Meritage (also reviewed this week), this Cabernet Sauvignon has more of everything — more alcohol (14.5% stated), more power, more concentration and more fruit dominant flavors. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Meritage 2013
($30): This is classic example of how less is often more. Weighing in at a modest 13.5% stated alcohol, this blend of Bordeaux grapes displays a panoply of black fruit and savory flavors. There’s a hint of cassis-like notes and an olive-like nuance among others. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Zinfandel “Vintner’s Reserve” 2015
($17): Those looking for “killer” Zinfandel should look elsewhere, which probably explains why I like this wine. It’s a balance of black fruit flavors, spice and a touch of herbal notes wrapped in soft plush tannins. Not flamboyant, it’s a good choice for burgers, barbeque or a pepperoni pizza.… Read more
Archery Summit, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris “Vireton” 2015
($22): Archery Summit, a top Oregon Pinot Noir producer, also makes distinctive Pinot Gris, judging from this one. It strikes the balance of subtle stone fruit flavors buttressed by vibrant acidity. They have captured the essence of Pinot Gris without falling into the trap of over ripeness. … Read more
Folded Hills, Santa Ynez Valley (Central Coast, California) Grenache “Grant” 2015
($34): This mid-weight wine is a delight, delivering charming red berry fruit-like flavors intermingled with earthy herbal notes. A blend of Grenache (95%) and Syrah, it positively dances on the palate. Tannins are mild, but provide plenty of structure and the bright acidity keeps it fresh and lively. … Read more
Raventós I Blanc, Vino Espumoso de Calidad (Penedes, Spain) “de Nit” Brut 2015
($23, Skurnik): Raventós I Blanc, one of the shining stars of Spanish sparkling wine, left the Cava DO in 2013 and is spearheading a project to create a new one, Conca del Riu Anoia, based on the Anoia River Valley. They felt the regulations governing Cava were weak and wanted stricter ones for producing higher quality sparkling wines. … Read more
Raventós I Blanc, Vino Espumoso de Calidad (Penedes, Spain) “Textures de Pedra” 2012
($41, Skurnik): A blend of three red grapes — so technically a Blanc de Noirs — this white wine is an outstanding sparkler and shows that the Champagne region does not hold a monopoly on high-quality bubbly. Creamy and persistent, it demonstrates power and elegance. … Read more
Dog Point, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($20): Dog Point consistently produces balanced, easy-to-recommend Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2016 is no exception. They strike a perfect balance between pungency and fruitiness while eschewing the often-found screeching aspect in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. This is a Sauvignon Blanc with grace, which makes it perfect for grilled fish.… Read more
Domaine de la Grenaudière, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2016
($10, North Berkeley Wine): Recommending a wine for summertime consumption with the thermometer in single digits and a foot of snow of the ground may be a new definition of optimism. But the quality/price ratio here makes me want to buy this wine before it disappears.… Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2016
($14): One of Drouhin’s talents is that, along with their top-notch prestigious Burgundies, they make high-quality wines from appellations with lesser pedigrees, such as Macon-Villages. This Chardonnay-based wine, while ripe for Drouhin’s style, still does not approach the opulence seen in many New World Chardonnay. … Read more
Paraduxx, Napa Valley (California) Proprietary White Wine 2016
($32): Long known for their non-traditional blends of red grapes, Paraduxx has released a white wine made from a non-traditional blend of white grapes: Rhône varieties, Viognier (65%), Roussanne and Marsanne (7%), with Chardonnay (28%). Floral and fruity, this mid-weight wine would be a pleasing stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Yountville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon State Ranch 2015
($100): Nickel & Nickel’s State Ranch Cabernet, from a vineyard just down the road from Oakville in Yountville, is similarly ripe and intense as their Sullenger. But it’s rounder and more supple than the its brother from Oakville. A combination of dark black fruit and mineral-like nuances makes for an appealing ying and yang of sweet and savory flavors. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Sonoma County (California) “Upshot” Red Wine Blend 2015
($28): The winery’s press release describes this wine as “a non-traditional blend.” That’s an understatement. With Zinfandel (44%), Merlot (29%), Malbec (15%), Petit Verdot (7%), rounded out with Riesling, it is like no blend I’ve encountered. But that’s one of the things that great about New World wine — people are not afraid to experiment. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon John C. Sullenger Vineyard 2015
($100): What I love about the Nickel & Nickel Cabernets is how they are all different. Despite the same winemaking team using the same grape variety, the wines offer different flavor profiles, which supports the concept of terroir — that somehow the soil, climate, and exposure in the vineyard determines the character of the wine. … Read more
Paraduxx, Howell Mountain (Napa Valley, California) Proprietary Red Wine 2014
($80): Paraduxx is Duckhorn’s winery and label best known for non-traditional blends of California grapes, such as Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon. With the 2014 vintage, they have introduced some “foreign” grapes into the mix. For this one, they borrow a South Australian concept of blending Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Syrah. … Read more
Diebolt-Vallois, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Prestige NV
($46, Petit Pois): Diebolt-Vallois, a family domaine, is located in Cramant, a village in the heart of the Côte de Blancs, the part of the Champagne region that is best suited for Chardonnay. Indeed, the grapes for this wine come from three villages in the Côte de Blancs that are rated Grand Cru: Cramant, Chouilly and Le Mesnil sur Oger. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) 2014
($20, Louis Latour USA): Viré-Clessé is an under-the-radar appellation in the Mâconnais that was created in the late 1990s from combining two villages, Viré and Clessé, that made distinctive wines that were previously included under the umbrella of Mâcon-Villages. It joins St.… Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2014
($75, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre, a top-notch Chablis producer, makes classically structured Chablis — tightly wound and linear. Their Preuses, from their own vineyards, is always one of their best wines. Preuses has the reputation of being one of the least elegant of the Chablis Grand Cru. … Read more
Château de Fleurie, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015
($21, David Bowler Wine): Sensational is the word that comes to mind when describing the 2015 vintage in Beaujolais. Of course, we are talking about the cru of Beaujolais, the ten villages within that region whose wines stand apart from the remainder of the region, which explains why the name of the cru alone — without the word Beaujolais — appears on the label. … Read more