($22, Cognac One): 
The appellation of St. Joseph lies on the right (West) bank of the Rhône, facing east and its more famous neighbor, Hermitage. Though the granite soil is similar to that of Hermitage and the grape (Syrah) is the same, the wines are lighter and earlier maturing because the east-facing exposure means less sunlight–and ripeness–during the harvest season. … Read more
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Mommessin, Clos de Tart (Burgundy, France) 2009
($485, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Domaines & Saveurs Collection): Clos de Tart is one of the most under rated grand crus of the Côte de Nuits. Located in Morey St. Denis and owned entirely by the Mommessin family, it has been producing sensational wine since Sylvain Pitiot, who is obsessed with quality, took over as cellar master in 1996. … Read more
Domaine Philippe Faury, St. Joseph Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2009
($27, Winebow): St. Joseph, well known for its reds, also produces a small amount (less than 10% of the appellation) of white wine from the usual white grapes of the Rhône, Marsanne and Roussanne. In this one, the substantial amount of Roussanne (40%), imparts freshness and verve to the fruitier and slightly lanolin-like textured Marsanne. … Read more
Cave de Tain, Saint-Péray (Rhône Valley, France) “Fleur de Roc” 2009
($20, Cognac One): Saint-Péray, a tiny appellation in the Rhône, produces only white or sparkling wine. Cave de Tain is the local, highly regarded cooperative there. Like many Rhône white wines, this one delivers fleshy yellow fruit flavors. But unlike many white Rhônes, it also has lovely brightness and vivacity to balance the usual waxy texture. … Read more
Vidal-Fleury, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2010
($17, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): This is a brilliant white Côtes du Rhône. Guigal, the leader in the Rhône, purchased Vidal-Fleury about twenty-five years ago. Their hand, in the form of a healthy amount of Viognier, is apparent in this wine. … Read more
Vidal-Fleury, St. Joseph Rouge (Rhône Valley, France) 2007
($30, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): Although owned by Guigal, the Rhône’s leading producer, since the 
mid-1980s, Vidal-Fleury remains a separate commercial entity with a separate winemaking team. Nonetheless, the elegance and grace for which Guigal is known shows in this wine. … Read more
Reviews: FRANCE – Burgundy
Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2006 ($96, VOS Selections): This premier cru comes across a little coarser than his Les Cazetiers and shows Burgundy’s earthier side. Although not as refined, it conveys a charming rusticity. It would be a good choice for more robust fare.… Read more
Chablis: The World’s Greatest White Wine Bargain
Chablis has a long history of being misunderstood. The appropriation of this regulated site-specific name to generic white California jug wine–Gallo White Chablis (as if there were red wine in Chablis)–ruined Chablis’ image and cachet for decades. Now, with the movement away from super ripe, buttery, oaky New World Chardonnay and the increasing popularity of “unoaked” Chardonnay, interest in Chablis is making a resurgence. … Read more
Alain Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) “Mes Favorites” Vieilles Vignes 2009
($100, Frederick Wildman): Here’s an example of how the French appellation system breaks down. This village wine delivers more elegance and complexity than many producers’ wines from premier cru vineyards. For this wine, Burguet combines grapes from old vines located in various parcels that lie on the slope between the village and the road. … Read more
Casa Lapostolle, Rapel Valley (Chile) Carménère “Casa” 2010
($12, Moët Hennessey USA): Founded in part by the Marnier Lapostolle family (of Grand Marnier fame) Casa Lapostolle was one of the early Franco-Chilean endeavors. They remain one of Chile’s leading producers. They produce at least three tiers of wine, with their “Casa” label falling the in middle. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010
($15): As with the rest of Burgundy, Beaujolais had two great back-to-back vintages in 2009 and 2010. And, as with the rest of Burgundy, the styles of the two vintages in Beaujolais are very different, making it extremely difficult to choose between the two. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($16, Frederick Wildman): Stéphane Aviron describes his 2009 Beaujolais as “sunny wines” because of the warmth of the vintage. Anyone who thinks that all Beaujolais is just tutti-fruity and jammy should try his wines. Spiced with a touch of minerality, this 2009 Beaujolais Villages harbors not a hint of overt grapey flavors. … Read more
Domaine Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Petits Cazetiers 2009
($90, Frederick Wildman): Les Petits Cazetiers is adjacent to Les Cazetiers, its famous neighbor that many producers believe is the village’s best premier cru vineyard. But there’s nothing small about this wine. It’s quintessential Burgundy delivering flavor without heaviness. Leathery and earthy notes peek out from a rich, but not overbearing, assortment of red and black fruit flavors. … Read more
Numanthia, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Termanthia 2007
($225, Moët Hennessey USA): Wines trying to achieve “greatness” by relying on power alone fail be
cause they lack elegance. Power will get a wine noticed, but it is not the component that determines the wine’s quality. Numanthia’s Termanthia, their top of the line wine made from vines that are over 100 years old, succeeds because it delivers great concentration while retaining elegance.… Read more
Casa Lapostolle, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Clos Apalta 2008
($75, Moët Hennessey USA): This, Casa Lapostolle’s top wine, remains one of Chile’s best. Made primarily from Carménère, Chile’s signature grape, it combines fruit flavors—both black and red—with earthy and herbal notes in a luxuriously supple package of fine tannins. The non-fruit nuances for which Carménère is notorious add great complexity. … Read more
Potel-Aviron, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009
($18, Frederick Wildman): The Côte de Brouilly, one of the ten crus of Beaujolais, is known for stylish wines. And this is one of them. Firm, but not hard, a classy minerality explodes on the palate. This is serious stuff. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2012… Read more
Chateau de Sancerre, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2010
($22, Moët Hennessey USA): I love authentic Sancerre, such as this one, because it transmits an earthy chalky edginess, along with the grapefruity side of Sauvignon Blanc. The 2010 Chateau de Sancerre has length and body, elements often lacking in modern Sancerre. … Read more
Cheval des Andes, Mendoza (Argentina) 2007
($73, Moët Hennessey USA): The result of a joint project between Chateau Cheval Blanc in St. Emilion and Argentina’s Terrazas de los Andes, the Cheval des Andes erases any
idea that Argentina cannot produce great wines. The winemaking team led by Nicolas Audebert has put together a marvelous combination of dark fruit and mineral-like flavors all wrapped in velvety-like tannins. … Read more
A Tale of Two Vintages
Is it hype or is it true? Do 2009 and 2010 represent back-to-back great vintages for Burgundy or is it just another case of the French crying wolf with yet more “vintages of the century?” My vote goes to truth rather than hype, although the two vintages couldn’t be more different.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Couchereaux 2009
($40, Kobrand): There should be no question about the quality of the 2009 vintage for red Burgundy. A potential criticism is that they lack structure that would allow them to develop complexity with age. Well, one sip of this wine dispels that notion. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2011
($20, Kobrand): Although the Marlborough region on the north tip of the South Island has made a name for itself for stunning Sauvignon Blanc—and rightly so—Martinborough, just a stone’s throw away on the southern tip of the North Island, also is home to stylish Sauvignon Blanc, especially in Craggy Range’s hands. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Gewurztraminer 2010
($9): What’s so remarkable about Château Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest producer, is their ability to make terrific inexpensive as well as stunning high-end wines. This bargain-priced Gewürztraminer delivers spiced fruit-flavors (gewürz means spicy), cutting citrus acidity and a whiff of sweetness that amplifies the wine’s spicy side. … Read more
Numanthia, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Termes” 2008
($30, Moët Hennessey USA): Toro, like so many other Spanish appellations, is undergoing a 
renaissance led, in no small measure, by Numanthia. (The winery takes its name from the nearby town of Numancia). They make three wines, Termanthia, Numanthia (which leads to the perseverating Numanthia’s Numanthia) and this one, Termes, distinguished chiefly by the age of the vines. … Read more
Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011
($17, Moët Hennessey USA): I’m always surprised that the SBS (as they’re known in Australia) wines aren’t as popular here as they are down under. Cape Mentelle, one of Western Australia’s leading producers, made a particularly alluring one in 2011. Its creamy luxurious side–Semillon speaking–is offset and balanced by a pleasant tang from the Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Late Harvest Riesling 2008
($31, Moët Hennessey USA): Cloudy Bay put New Zealand on the world’s wine map with their Sauvignon Blanc two decades ago. They just might do the same with Late Harvest Riesling, judging from this one. Sure, it’s sweet, but not cloying, and delivers hints of peaches and apricot skin. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($31, Moët Hennessey USA): You might think that Cloudy Bay would rest on its laurels given their tremendous reputation at producing exemplary Sauvignon Blanc. But they haven’t. They’ve actually increased the quality of their all ready terrific Sauvignon Blanc as the vines age and they gain even more experience with their vineyards. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2009
($40, Moët Hennessey USA): Marlborough is usually ranked after Central Otago and Martinborough when considering prime sites for Pinot Noir in New Zealand. A few more wines like this one and that paradigm in likely to change. Sarah Burton and the winemaking team has managed to capture both the fruity and savory sides of Pinot Noir in their 2009 bottling. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling 2011
($17, American Wine Distributors): The Clare Valley is a prime area for Riesling and Wakefield is one the region’s best producers. Owned by the Taylor family and sold under the name Taylor in Australia, they use the Wakefield label in the US because of trademark issues. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2010
($20): 
Eroica, a joint project between Dr. Loosen, one of Germany’s top Riesling producers, and Chateau Ste. Michelle, has been a smashing success since its launch in 1999. The 2010 continues that tradition with a delicate lacy fruitiness beautifully complemented by bracing and zesty citrus-like acidity. … Read more
Château Penin, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($15, Wine Brokers International): The 2009 vintage in Bordeaux produced ripe, fleshy red wines. Even at the lower appellation levels, such as Bordeaux Supérieur, the tannins are ripe and supple, not green, which makes these wines particularly attractive. The 2009 Château Penin is classic Bordeaux with a satisfying combination of ripe red fruit flavors and earthy nuances. … Read more
Château Lestrille, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($13, Wine Brokers International): Here’s another bargain priced Bordeaux that shows how the lower appellations benefited from the ripeness of the 2009 vintage. Black fruit flavor predominate in this weightier wine. Subtle tarry elements and even a mildly chewy texture add to its appeal. … Read more
2009 Bordeaux: Voluptuous Wines
They’re here! The much-praised 2009 Bordeaux, the region’s priciest vintage, has arrived. Representatives from the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) were in New York this past week as part of their nationwide tour to give the trade the first comprehensive look at this much-heralded vintage. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2010
($21, Kobrand): 
Craggy Range focuses on making wines from individual, single vineyards in an attempt to capture the flavors of a unique site. I don’t have sufficient experience with vineyard sites for red wines in New Zealand to know whether they succeeded in that goal. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Abeilles” 2010
($11, Palm Bay International): White Côtes du Rhône can be tough, often heavy, lacking acidity. But when they’re balanced, like this one, they are hard to resist. A blend of Clairette (80%) and Roussanne, Colombo captures the slightly peach or apricot stone fruit character while retaining vibrancy and freshness. … Read more
Domaine Vigneau-Chevreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2010
($21, Cynthia Hurley Imports): Vouvray, an under-rated and misunderstood appellation, is home to some 
terrific wines, like this one. But the stumbling block for consumers, which prevents more widespread appreciation of the category, is deciphering the level of sweetness. This one is almost bone dry and mineraly with delicate green apple notes. … Read more
Domaine du Tariquet, Côte de Gascogne (Gascony, France) Chenin – Chardonnay 2010
($9, Robert Kacher Selections): Domaine des Salices, another François Lurton estate, makes a lovely array of wines from the Languedoc region in the southwest of France. Taking advantage of the looser regulations of the Vin de Pays designation (as opposed to the stricter appellation controllée rules), they sell the wines using varietal names. … Read more
Bodegas François Lurton, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Torrontés 2011
($11, Vintus Imports): Since 1988, Jacques and François Lurton, sons of André Lurton, the patriarch of one of Bordeaux’s most important families, have established wineries outside of Bordeaux and have become one of the leading producers in Argentina. Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white grape, is under appreciated and deserves the popularity that Malbec has. … Read more
Colomé Estate, Calchaqui Valley (Salta, Argentina) Malbec 2009
($25): The Colomé website notes their vineyards are at an elevation between 
2,300 and 3,111 meters (7,544 and 10,204 feet), the highest in the world. The elevation moderates what would be otherwise scorching heat and allows the grapes to hold their acidity, which translates into a fresh and lively wine. … Read more
Domaine des Salices, Vin de Pay d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Viognier 2009
($13, Vintus Imports): Domaine des Salices, another François Lurton estate, makes a lovely array of wines from the Languedoc region in the southwest of France. Taking advantage of the looser regulations of the Vin de Pays designation (as opposed to the stricter appellation controllée rules), they sell the wines using varietal names. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Abeilles” 2009
($12, Palm Bay International): 
Colombo is a star producer in Cornas, a small appellation in the Northern Rhône. His Côtes du Rhône, dubbed Les Abeilles (the bees) is always a winner as well. With equal parts Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, the 2009 is no exception.… Read more
Volteo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo/Shiraz 2009
($11, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): This blend from Ramón Bilbao, a leading Rioja producer, delivers a juicy mixture of red and black fruit flavors. Bright and robust, it has polished tannins that make it perfect for hearty fare now.… Read more
Domaine Serge Laporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2010
($25, Cynthia Hurley Imports): 
Although Sauvignon Blanc is the required grape in Sancerre for white wine, authentic Sancerre evokes the place, not the grape. Fortunately for consumers, Serge Laporte makes authentic Sancerre. His importer tells me that half of the wine comes from Les Monts Damnés (the damned mountains) in Chavignol, considered by many to be Sancerre’s best site, which could explain why this wine is so distinctive. … Read more
Domaine Cazes, Muscat de Rivesaltes (Roussillon, France) 2007
($15, Robert Kacher Selections): The attractive strength of this Muscat de Rivesaltes is the dominant floral and orange-scented aromatics and flavors. The flavors are fresh and fruity with subtle citrus notes, 15% alcohol and good length through the fruity finish. Drink now. … Read more
Weingut August Eser, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Classic” 2010
($23, AP Wine Imports): The importer told me that the Classic moniker is an attempt by producers to replace the halbtrocken (half-dry) designation and indicate a drier style of Riesling. To my mind, this plethora of descriptors just muddies the already murky waters of trying to tell a consumer whether it’s a dry or sweet Riesling. … Read more
Domaine Lou Frejau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2007
($50, AP Wine Imports): Founded by Serge Chastan in 1982, Domaine Lou Frejau, which means round pebbles after the stones found in the vineyards, produces this Châteauneuf-du-Pape from all of the eight permitted varieties of red grapes. Their 2007 is certainly filled with ripe fruit flavors and spice, but also displays considerable elegance unlike many of the super concentrated southern Rhone wines from that year. … Read more
The Scientific Low-Down on High Alcohol Wines
“Officer, the Breathalyzer must be wrong. I only drank two glasses of Chardonnay,” the young woman complained. “How is that possible?” Well, it is possible.… Read more
Domaine Jean Teiller, Menetou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) 2010
($25, AP Wine Imports): Menetou-Salon, a small appellation near Sancerre, is a good place for consumers to find vibrant Sauvignon Blanc-based wines, like this one from Domaine Jean Teiller. Not just delivering grapefruit-tinged fruitiness, this conveys a mouth-watering chalky minerality. Good intensity and length adds to its distinctiveness and makes it easy to recommend.… Read more
Domaine Couly-Dutheil, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) Les Chanteaux 2010
($25, Cynthia Hurley Imports): Cynthia Hurley is an “old-time” small importer whose name on a bottle is a guarantee of quality. Focusing exclusively on French wines, she relies on her judgment and palate, instead of point scores from critics, to find distinctive wines from small producers. … Read more
Domaine Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “La Coulée Automnale” 2009
($18, Cynthia Hurley Imports): 
La Coulée, one of the prime vineyards in Chinon, has multiple owners. To distinguish his from the rest, Couly-Dutheil, arguably Chinon’s top producer, labels this as “Automnale.” The 2009 vintage in the Loire, like the rest of France, was fabulous, producing ripe, yet balanced red wines, like this mid-weight one. … Read more
MacPhail Family Vineyards, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir Toulouse Vineyard 2009
($45): James MacPhail runs a small winery that focuses on Pinot Noir. He owns no vineyards, but that doesn’t prevent him from making top-notch wine. He doesn’t make Burgundy. He makes Pinot Noir that is a quintessential expression of California. In this one from Anderson Valley, a captivating perfume is followed by beautifully intertwined earthy and red fruit flavors. … Read more