Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Beronia, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2006

($29, San Francisco Wine Exchange): Full disclosure, this wine gets additional points for value. I would run to buy it because wines of this quality at this price will disappear rapidly.  Another fabulous bargain from Beronia, a Rioja producer whose well-priced wines rarely fail to thrill, it’s a traditional blend of Tempranillo (95%), Graciano and Mazuelo.Read more

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2012

($30, Wilson Daniels): Moulin-à-Vent, with its iconic windmill perched at the top of the hill, is the most revered of the ten crus of Beaujolais.  The cru are small areas in the north of Beaujolais with granitic soil which produce wines that couldn’t be further from the tutti-frutti character of Beaujolais Nouveau, which, sadly, remains the image of the region to far too many consumers. Read more

Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Polish Hill 2014

($49): Jeffrey Grosset makes an array of fabulous Rieslings.  Despite the impression — erroneous, as it turns out — that Australia falls into the “warm weather” category for winemaking, the Clare Valley is home to exceptional Riesling. Jeffrey Grosset told me that they have such ideal conditions there for that grape that they have not needed to acidity the wines for the last 14 vintages since they transformed the vineyard to organic farming. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2013

($65): With a different profile than her other Pinots — more red than black fruit intermingled with the hard to describe “leafy” character — Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane shows the virtue of single vineyard bottlings.  Though all of the hallmarks of Merry Edwards’ wines are there:  Beautiful balance, well structured but not oppressive tannins, and freshness, the wine is still unique. Read more

Maison L’Envoye, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Two Messengers” 2013

($30): Perhaps the “Two Messengers” tag  reflects the collaboration between Burgundy’s Louis-Michael Liger-Belair and the Willamette Valley.  Or perhaps it’s the combination of two complementary flavors — ripe fruit and savory nuances.  Whatever the origin of the name, the wine is easy to recommend because it does bring together the Janus-like essence of Pinot Noir, with bright red fruit notes harmonized with earthy complexity. Read more

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012

($36, Vineyard Brands): Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, a top-notch producer based in Nuits St. Georges, has, like other Burgundy producers, expanded into Beaujolais.  In 2012, he produced two captivating wines from Moulin-à-Vent, the best of appellation’s 10 crus.  The 2012 Vieilles Vignes, which comes from a variety of parcels within Moulin-à-Vent, transmits the granitic character of the region with a deep earthy firmness. Read more

Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2013

($34): There’s magic in this wine.  Fresh and precise, it conveys citrus notes and engaging bit of spice.  It maintains plenty of richness, which is buttressed by freshness and vivacity.  The pungency of Sauvignon Blanc is more apparent here since the proportion of that variety has been increased at the expense of Sémillon and Sauvignon Gris. Read more

Rodney Strong, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2013

($25): Let’s hope that this example of lighter, fresher and more vibrant Chardonnay from California is truly here to stay.  There’s still plenty of richness, but the overall impression is lightness and vivacity.  The winery attributes the character of this stylish Chardonnay to their vineyard’s location near the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. Read more

Dominus Estate, Napa Valley (California) 2011

($150): Dominus Estate has become a California icon in barely over 3 decades since Christian Moueix purchased the famed Napanook Vineyard in 1982.  The first vintage, 1983, was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Merlot.  Over the decades the Bordeaux focus has been constant while the blend has shifted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon supplemented with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Read more

Amisfield, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2012

($39): Central Otago, an area on the southern end of New Zealand’s South Island, is making a name for itself as a place for stylish Pinot Noir.  Despite its more southerly locale (which should be cooler in the Southern Hemisphere), the Pinot Noirs from Central Otago are riper and more powerful than those for other areas of New Zealand, such as Marlborough and Martinborough because the area is more inland with fewer maritime influences. Read more

Domaine Francoise André, Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2011

($45, Langdon Shiverick Imports): Pernand-Vergelesses, located behind (to the west) of the Hill of Corton is slightly off the beaten track, despite laying claim to a sizeable portion of the Grand Cru vineyard, Corton Charlemagne.  As a result, its wines can represent good value — we’re not talking inexpensive, this is Burgundy, after all.  Read more

Maison Lou Dumont, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012

($29, Langdon Shiverick Imports): A wonderful Bourgogne Rouge, this wine demonstrates the appeal of Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy, combining the fruitiness of the variety with the savory character that must come from the locale.  Its impact belies its delicacy.  A charming rusticity makes it an excellent choice for a roast chicken with an aromatic mushroom sauce. Read more

Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2006

($80): Though I’ve recommended this wine before, my enthusiasm for it just keeps increasing after tasting it a few more times.  Mastroberardino is perhaps the finest producer in Campania (full disclosure, I’ve not tasted wines from every producer located in that region around Naples, but I’ve also not found any yet that consistently stand up to those of Mastroberardino.) Read more

Domaine Marc Colin et Fils, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Sur le Sentier du Clou 2013

($58): Domaine Marc Colin, now run by his children, Damien, Joseph and Caroline, is a star producer in Burgundy, in general and in St. Aubin, in particular.  The domaine produces eight different–and distinct–premier crus from St. Aubin, a village that is slightly off the beaten track but lies adjacent to Chassagne Montrachet. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Pouilly Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2013

($24, Louis Latour USA): Though the 2014 vintage for whites looks outstanding at this stage, consumers should not overlook 2013 whites, such as this one.  Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, consistently makes a stylish and reasonably priced Pouilly-Fuissé.  With a creamy lushness and firm stony underpinning, the 2013 fits that mold beautifully. Read more