Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2012

($15):  The Albariño grape grown in Rias Baixas makes distinctive wine, which has become, justifiably, very hot recently because its edginess makes it a good choice with a wide variety of food.  The 2012 from Martín Códax has a hint of that edginess, but also delivers some subtle tropical flavors that makes it a good introduction for those who are just starting to embrace this grape and wine. … Read more

Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012

($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores.  The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity.  The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more

Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2012

($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Though I reviewed this wine earlier this year, I just tasted it again and realized I should repeat my earlier recommendation because it’s an especially good choice for the Thanksgiving table.  It’s a perfectly harmonized amalgam of lanolin-like texture (from Semillon, which comprises a majority of the blend), with the brightness and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more

William Hill Estate Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bench Blend” 2010

($45): William Hill’s Bench Blend Cabernet Sauvignon represents a blend of wines made exclusively from Cabernet Sauvignon grown in their best vineyards, according to Ralf Holdenried, their winemaker.  Similar to their Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which contains a dollop of other varieties, this Bench Blend is dense and dark with a harmonious interplay of herbs and black fruit and an appealing bitterness in the finish. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2011

($62): The age of the vines — the vineyard’s 40 years old — shows in this wine’s complexity and refinement.  It combines the brightness and liveliness character of Edwards’ Sonoma Coast bottling with the intensity of her Georganne Pinot Noir.  What’s most amazing is the way it unfolds in the glass, revealing more and more pleasure over a couple of hours. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2011

($39): Merry Edwards shows that the French have no monopoly on the concert of terroir.  Her Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is refreshingly different from her Russian River bottlings.  It delivers bright berry-like flavors intermingled with spicy and earthy nuances.  It’s a lively and invigorating wine that combines succulence and spice without being overdone. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2011

($57): From her youngest vineyard, which was planted in 2006, Edwards’ Georganne is a bigger and weightier wine than her Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir bottling.  Conveying more black than red fruit-like flavors, it has an attractive burly presence.  Almost chewy, Edwards magically prevents it — and all her Pinot Noir — from being heavy. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Indian Wells 2012

($18): Though a more restrained — thankfully — style of Chardonnay, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Indian Wells bottling doesn’t lack flavor.  A subtle creaminess enhances the spicy tropical fruit-tinged flavors.  It’s 14.5% stated alcohol shows as a touch of heat in the finish, but doesn’t detract once you match this wine with grilled swordfish.… Read more

Cono Sur, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon Pirque Viejo Estate “20 Barrels” 2010

($24, Vineyard Brands): Cono Sur has done it again with their top-of-the-line, “20 Barrels” bottling.  Their 20 Barrels Pinot Noir (previously reviewed) was excellent.  This Cabernet Sauvignon shows they’ve mastered more than just one variety.  Not a massive wine, it’s pure Cabernet delight with a seamless interplay of fruit, herbs and savory notes. … Read more

Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012

($24): With this Sauvignon Blanc, their first commercial offering, Clos du Val shows they are as talented with their whites as with their terrific reds. Pleasantly pungent with a marvelous balance of creaminess, it has lovely depth while avoiding heaviness.  Though spicy and bright, it still doesn’t shake you by the lapels but rather awakens your palate and makes you want to take another sip. … Read more

Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

($38): Thankfully, Clos du Val retains their hallmark style of restraint and elegance with their 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon.  And they do it without sacrificing intensity or weight. This wine amazes with its plethora of flavors.  There’s the expected mix of black and red fruit flavors, but there is also alluring nuances of herbs, savory notes and even olives. … Read more

Cono Sur, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir El Triángulo Estate “20 Barrels” 2011

($25, Vineyard Brands): Cono Sur’s “20 Barrels” bottling represents their best lots — a reserve bottling, essentially.  This Pinot Noir is bigger and more concentrated than their superb value regular bottling without going over to the dark side.  They’ve managed a seamless combination of fruit and savory notes enrobed in glossy tannins. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2012

($20): Eroica, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen of Germany’s Dr. Loosen and Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste. Michelle, has been one of the finest Rieslings made in America since its 1999 debut.  It’s a blend of grapes grown throughout eastern Washington, composed by Loosen and Bertheau (after all, the wine is named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony). … Read more

Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc Reserve 2011

($40): Decades ago Robert Mondavi coined the name Fumé Blanc for his wine made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. It has always been one of California’s most distinctive, and the Mondavi 2011 continues that track record.  The grapes have traditionally come from the famed To Kalon vineyard near the winery and they’ve opted to now put the vineyard name on the label. … Read more

Jean Claude Boisset, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2011

($100, Boisset USA): Les Perrières means stony, which is an accurate description for the firm, classically structured white Burgundy.  The stony minerality acts as a lovely foil for its green apple-like ripeness.  The contrast with Boisset St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly shows the magic of Burgundy–same grape, same vintage, same winemaking team, yet two very different expressions of Chardonnay. … Read more