($15): The Albariño grape grown in Rias Baixas makes distinctive wine, which has become, justifiably, very hot recently because its edginess makes it a good choice with a wide variety of food. The 2012 from Martín Códax has a hint of that edginess, but also delivers some subtle tropical flavors that makes it a good introduction for those who are just starting to embrace this grape and wine. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012
($21): The town of Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the Côte d’Or is a sleeper as a source for well priced white and red Burgundy, especially in 2012, a vintage that was short on quantity, but long on quality. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012
($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores. The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity. The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2012
($23, Dreyfus Ashby): Though based in Beaune in the Côte d’Or, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns substantial vineyards in Chablis. Their Réserve de Vaudon, made from grapes grown in their vineyards, is a perfect way to discover this unique style of Chardonnay. … Read more
Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Though I reviewed this wine earlier this year, I just tasted it again and realized I should repeat my earlier recommendation because it’s an especially good choice for the Thanksgiving table. It’s a perfectly harmonized amalgam of lanolin-like texture (from Semillon, which comprises a majority of the blend), with the brightness and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Léo de la Gaffelière, Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2011
($19, Luneau USA / Nicolas Wines): Château La Gaffelière is one of the leading properties in Saint-Emilion, making sensational wine year in and year out. As the competition at the top end of Bordeaux continues, the top properties make ever increasing severe selections to maintain the quality — and price — of the top wine. … Read more
Château de Cruzeau, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($27, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): This wine exemplifies why Bordeaux remains a benchmark for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-based wine. It’s not just about the fruit, of which there’s plenty. But the real excitement comes from the non-fruit flavors of earth, herbs and ash, plus the slight bitterness in the long and fine finish. … Read more
Château Gravelier, Bordeaux (France) 2010
($10, Esprit du Vin): Let me know when you find a better $10 red wine. This Merlot dominant (70%) blend is an unbelievable bargain, delivering both fleshy fruit flavors and balancing savory notes. Solid weight, freshness, and an ever so slightly bitter finish just add to the enjoyment. … Read more
Château Lamothe de Haux, Bordeaux (France) 2012
($12, Bayfield Importing): White wines from Bordeaux, such as this one, are underappreciated and hence, offer great value. The 2012 Château Lamothe de Haux, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (40%), Semillon (40%) and Muscadelle, delivers a lovely grassy bite — Sauvignon Blanc speaking — atop a creamy texture, thanks to the Semillon. … Read more
François Chidaine, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Les Argiles” 2012
($25, Beaune Imports): Vouvray is often shunned because the consumer can’t discern the level of sweetness from the label. Well, there’s no reason to shun Chidaine, one of the leaders in Vouvray. His 2012 Les Argiles is fruity, yet dry, and pleasantly piercing, which makes it positively mouth cleansing.… Read more
William Hill Estate Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bench Blend” 2010
($45): William Hill’s Bench Blend Cabernet Sauvignon represents a blend of wines made exclusively from Cabernet Sauvignon grown in their best vineyards, according to Ralf Holdenried, their winemaker. Similar to their Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which contains a dollop of other varieties, this Bench Blend is dense and dark with a harmonious interplay of herbs and black fruit and an appealing bitterness in the finish. … Read more
William Hill Estate Winery, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2010
($30): This is serious Merlot — dark and dense with even chocolate nuances. And a touch of leafiness, just to reinforce it is real Merlot. The tannins are polished, but it’s not a soft wine, so I wouldn’t recommend sipping it before dinner. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2011
($62): The age of the vines — the vineyard’s 40 years old — shows in this wine’s complexity and refinement. It combines the brightness and liveliness character of Edwards’ Sonoma Coast bottling with the intensity of her Georganne Pinot Noir. What’s most amazing is the way it unfolds in the glass, revealing more and more pleasure over a couple of hours. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith 2011
($60): Edwards’ Coopersmith bottling is always one of her most gorgeous Pinot Noirs, perhaps because the vineyard is named for her husband. The epitome of power and grace, this Pinot Noir combines everything you’d want from that variety — floral notes, earthy minerality and plenty of fruit. … Read more
William Hill Estate Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($40): This fine wine shows the gorgeous combination of herbal and fruit — cassis — flavors that makes Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon so enthralling. The tannins are remarkably fine for such a dark and almost brooding wine. A refreshing even so slightly bitter finish adds to its appeal. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2011
($39): Merry Edwards shows that the French have no monopoly on the concert of terroir. Her Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is refreshingly different from her Russian River bottlings. It delivers bright berry-like flavors intermingled with spicy and earthy nuances. It’s a lively and invigorating wine that combines succulence and spice without being overdone. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2011
($57): From her youngest vineyard, which was planted in 2006, Edwards’ Georganne is a bigger and weightier wine than her Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir bottling. Conveying more black than red fruit-like flavors, it has an attractive burly presence. Almost chewy, Edwards magically prevents it — and all her Pinot Noir — from being heavy. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Indian Wells 2012
($18): Though a more restrained — thankfully — style of Chardonnay, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Indian Wells bottling doesn’t lack flavor. A subtle creaminess enhances the spicy tropical fruit-tinged flavors. It’s 14.5% stated alcohol shows as a touch of heat in the finish, but doesn’t detract once you match this wine with grilled swordfish.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot Indian Wells 2011
($17): Chateau Ste Michelle has pumped up this Merlot by adding Syrah (15%) to the blend thereby creating a plumy ripe wine. Still the black fruit doesn’t obliterate the engaging subtle leafy funkiness characteristic of real Merlot. The overall impression is a lovely combination of deep dark fruit with hints of earth. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($150): Will Berliner is either a visionary or has beginner’s luck. An American married to an Australian and settled in Western Australia’s Margaret River area, Berliner has no formal education or real background in wine. Nonetheless, what he is producing is nothing short of amazing. … Read more
Renwood Winery, Fiddletown (Amador County, California) Zinfandel 2011
($25): With their Fiddletown bottling, Renwood Winery has produced a lush and simultaneously, briary Zinfandel, filled with dark fruit flavors and spice. It has depth and the ripe fruit notes come across as a touch sweet, but yet, overall, the wine remains in balance and not overblown. … Read more
Robert Mondavi, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2010
($135): This concentrated and bold — 15% stated alcohol — Cabernet does manage to contain itself. The breeding of Napa Valley is apparent with rich cassis-laden fruit flavors combined with haunting herbal nuances. Tightly wound with fine, but firm tannins, the 2010 Mondavi Reserve is best cellared for several years. … Read more
Cono Sur, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon Pirque Viejo Estate “20 Barrels” 2010
($24, Vineyard Brands): Cono Sur has done it again with their top-of-the-line, “20 Barrels” bottling. Their 20 Barrels Pinot Noir (previously reviewed) was excellent. This Cabernet Sauvignon shows they’ve mastered more than just one variety. Not a massive wine, it’s pure Cabernet delight with a seamless interplay of fruit, herbs and savory notes. … Read more
Don Miguel Gascon, Mendoza (Argentina) “Colosal” Red Blend
2012 ($15, Gascon USA): The name says it all. This blend of Malbec, Bonarda, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon delivers subtly sweet, almost jammy, ripe black fruit flavors enveloped with plush tannins that results in a soft and forward wine. Good by itself, it would also work well with robust fare.… Read more
Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($24): With this Sauvignon Blanc, their first commercial offering, Clos du Val shows they are as talented with their whites as with their terrific reds. Pleasantly pungent with a marvelous balance of creaminess, it has lovely depth while avoiding heaviness. Though spicy and bright, it still doesn’t shake you by the lapels but rather awakens your palate and makes you want to take another sip. … Read more
Maison Robert Drouhin, St. Veran (Burgundy, France) 2011
($16, Dreyfus-Ashby): The 2011 vintage for white Burgundy was a mixed bag with some wines being flabby. Drouhin managed to capture acidity to keep that problem at bay with their lineup. This St. Veran, from an appellation near its more famous neighbor, Pouilly Fuissé, is a stand out at the price. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2011
($14): This plush, uncomplicated Merlot balances bright ripe fruitiness with hints of vanilla, presumably from oak aging. A touch of Syrah in the blend adds ripeness that borders on sweetness, which along with polished tannins make it well suited for stand-alone sipping.… Read more
Renwood Winery, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Premier” Old Vine 2010
($20): Once again, location matters. Amador County has a great reputation for Zinfandel and it shows in the character of this wine. Fresh bright fruit flavors, dried fruit notes, and spice all come together in this bold, yet not massive, Zinfandel. … Read more
Spellbound, California (United States) Petite Sirah 2012
($15): There’s nothing petite about wines made from Petite Sirah. This robust red, actually purple, wine delivers jammy fruit flavors seasoned with licorice and spicy oak. It would work well with a hearty pasta dish.
85 Michael Apstein Oct 29, 2013… Read more
Renwood Winery, California (United States) Zinfandel 2011
($15): This unusual blend of Zinfandel (86%) with a touch of white grapes (Roussanne, 2%) and a grape I’d never heard of (Souzao, 1%) had me running to Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes. The remainder of the blend is Primitivo and Mourvèdre. … Read more
Liberty School, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2012
($20): Sweet cherry-like flavors dominate in this Central Coast Pinot Noir. Lots of spice from oak aging and a whiff of savory notes compete with the ripe fruit flavors, but they are ultimately forced into the background by the unbridled fruitiness. … Read more
Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($38): Thankfully, Clos du Val retains their hallmark style of restraint and elegance with their 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon. And they do it without sacrificing intensity or weight. This wine amazes with its plethora of flavors. There’s the expected mix of black and red fruit flavors, but there is also alluring nuances of herbs, savory notes and even olives. … Read more
Spellbound, Napa Valley (California) Petite Sirah Reserve 2007
($45): Location matters. Spellbound’s Napa Valley bottling of Petite Sirah is a big step up from their less expensive “California” one. With spicy deep dark berry scented flavors accompanied by moderate tannins, this is quintessential Petite Sirah. Winemaker, Rob Mondavi, Jr.,… Read more
Cono Sur, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir 2012
($11, Vineyard Brands): This fruit-focused Pinot Noir manages to avoid the sweetness trap so many fruit-focused wines fall into. Subtle savory notes help balance the overt fruitiness found here. Tannins, predictably, are polished to allow for immediate enjoyment. What’s most startling is this kind of quality in Pinot Noir at this price. … Read more
Cono Sur, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir El Triángulo Estate “20 Barrels” 2011
($25, Vineyard Brands): Cono Sur’s “20 Barrels” bottling represents their best lots — a reserve bottling, essentially. This Pinot Noir is bigger and more concentrated than their superb value regular bottling without going over to the dark side. They’ve managed a seamless combination of fruit and savory notes enrobed in glossy tannins. … Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011
($55, Boisset USA): Jean Claude Boisset has reinvented itself over the last decade, going from a Burgundy négociant focusing on quantity to one now focusing on quality. It’s a welcome evolution. This Beaune Grèves has plenty of concentration and supporting acidity to keep it balanced. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2012
($20): Eroica, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen of Germany’s Dr. Loosen and Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste. Michelle, has been one of the finest Rieslings made in America since its 1999 debut. It’s a blend of grapes grown throughout eastern Washington, composed by Loosen and Bertheau (after all, the wine is named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony). … Read more
Robert Oatley, Central Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz “Wild Oats” 2011
($13, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): Robert Oatley, the man who founded Rosemount, one of Australia’s best and most successful wineries, now makes distinctive and easy to recommend wines under his own name. His remarkable talent is easy to see in the quality of his second wines, which he labels Wild Oats.… Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2011
($150): Cloudburst is a new venture started by Will Berliner, an American who’s married to an Australian. He entered the wine business serendipitously after he and his wife purchased a beautiful tract of land and house in the Margaret River area. … Read more
Clos du Val, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2010
($35): Clos du Val, one of the pioneer Napa Valley wineries, fortunately has never varied from it style that values finesse over power. Admirable restraint in this clean Merlot allows you to savor it. Though focused on fruit flavors, an appealing earthiness, characteristic of Merlot, appears in the finish. … Read more
Frei Brothers, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2011
($23): This bright Pinot Noir showcases the ripe sweet fruit of the Russian River Valley. Concentrated, but not over the top into the Pinot Syrah category, its polished tannins make it ready to drink. Indeed, it could stand alone for those who relish a glass of red wine before dinner, but would also be a fine choice for roast duck.… Read more
McManis Family Vineyards, River Junction (California) Chardonnay 2012
($10): It’s hard to find a drinkable $10 Chardonnay these days. So when I ran across one that was not only drinkable, but good, I was thrilled. There’s no subtlety here, just rich ripe fruit and, most importantly, balance. Easy to sip before a meal, this straightforward Chardonnay is an especially good choice when serving a crowd.… Read more
Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc Reserve 2011
($40): Decades ago Robert Mondavi coined the name Fumé Blanc for his wine made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. It has always been one of California’s most distinctive, and the Mondavi 2011 continues that track record. The grapes have traditionally come from the famed To Kalon vineyard near the winery and they’ve opted to now put the vineyard name on the label. … Read more
Alex Gambal, St. Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2011
($45): The names of Burgundy vineyards are fascinating, often evoking colorful images. This one, one of my favorites, is roughly translated as “the boulders that look like the teeth of the dog.” Alex Gambal’s 2011 from this vineyard is as wonderful as the name. … Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Saint Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2011
($45, Boisset USA): Boisset, a négociant known for bulk wines, has reinvented itself over the last decade by reducing production dramatically and focusing on quality instead of quantity. It’s been a dramatic and welcome transformation. Under the guidance of winemaker Gregory Patriat, they have produced this stylish St.… Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2011
($100, Boisset USA): Les Perrières means stony, which is an accurate description for the firm, classically structured white Burgundy. The stony minerality acts as a lovely foil for its green apple-like ripeness. The contrast with Boisset St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly shows the magic of Burgundy–same grape, same vintage, same winemaking team, yet two very different expressions of Chardonnay. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2011
($13, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Louis Jadot is as reliable and consistent producer as you will find in Burgundy. Their talents are apparent in this well-priced, bright, Chardonnay-based white Burgundy. Brimming with clean ripe fruit flavors, it has good balancing acidity that keeps it lively. … Read more
Alex Gambal, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011
($45): The Gambal team, led by winemaker Geraldine Godot who joined Gambal in 2009, has captured the “flavor without weight” character of red Burgundy with this elegant Beaune Grèves. Its lacey delicacy belies its impact and persistence. A firm underpinning gives it support and structure. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2010
($32): Clos du Val, thankfully, has resisted the trend toward overripe, boisterous wines. With this lacey and pure Pinot Noir, they deliver bright clean red fruit with a hint of minerality. It is precise with delicate savory elements in the finish. … Read more
Red Rock Winery, California (United States) Pinot Noir Reserve 2012
($14): This wine exemplifies why we need to regulate the term “Reserve.” Red Rock Winery produces 40,000 cases of this Pinot Noir annually from grapes that come from anywhere in California. That’s hardly a Reserve wine. Slightly sweet and soft, this fruit-focused wine works perfectly as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more