($18): Consumers often forget that Oregon producers exceptional Pinot Gris. This wine should remind them. Full and rich, it has hints of melons and nuances of apricots and other stone fruits. Enlivening acidity refreshes the palate and keeps you coming back for more. … Read more
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Neil Ellis, Elgin (South Africa) Shiraz 2007
($20, Vineyard Brands): Neil Ellis produces consistently high quality wines at all price levels. This, an upper tier Shiraz, is well worth it not because it is more powerful, but because it’s more complex. Not over-the-top, it’s a lovely balance of layers of spice and black fruit. … Read more
WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2008
($18): Pinot Blanc can be vapid and boring. Not this one. Fuller than most,
this lovely example has a stone fruit kind of richness balanced and invigorated by lively acidity in the finish. It’s an excellent choice as an aperitif that could easily be carried to the table to match with grilled fish, a seafood stew or even roast chicken.… Read more
California Chardonnay: A Paradigm Shift
It may be odd that I, a confirmed Francophile with a special affection for Burgundy, should be extolling the virtues of California Chardonnay.
But it’s true. Don’t think I’m comparing California–or any New World Chardonnay–with Burgundy. I’m not. Burgundians insist their wines are vehicles for transmitting the flavor of the vineyard–a.k.a. … Read more
Doña Paula Estate, Cafayate Valley (Salta, Argentina) Torrontés 2009
($12, Vineyard Brands): This wine is a little deceptive, in a nice way. With the floral aroma reminiscent of Muscat, it temporarily tricks you into thinking it will be sweet. But, it’s not. Racy acidity enlivens the palate. This versatile wine is equally at home as a before-dinner drink, to offset the heat of spicy Asian cuisine, or to complement roast pork. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah 2007
($33): They’ve hit the mark with this full-sized Syrah–in only their second vintage. Lush but not over ripe, it manages to capture both the meaty and black fruit sides of Syrah. This full-bodied wine has hints of licorice and other dark flavors that suggest that it be matched with a hearty winter stew.… Read more
E. Guigal, Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Rhone Valley, France) 2005
($50, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): 
Guigal is the Rhone’s most talented producer. His array of wines—from inexpensive Cotes du Rhone to single vineyard Cote Rôtie priced in the triple digits—is unmatched. Take this Châteauneuf-du-Pape for example. He owns no land there and has no vineyards.… Read more
Mohua, Central Otago (New Zealand) Riesling 2007
($15, Vineyard Brands): If New Zealand continues to turn out Riesling like this one, it will become known for that varietal in addition to its Sauvignon Blanc. It delivers a marvelous combination of earthy minerality, lively fruity notes, good concentration and bracing acidity. … Read more
Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) ‘Zind’ 2006
($19, The Sorting Table): Zind-Humbrecht is straying from French tradition by making wine from Chardonnay in Alsace. A blend of one-third Auxerrois and two-thirds Chardonnay from the famed Clos Windsbuhl vineyard, this appealing wine carries no appellation—it’s labeled solely as a “vin de table”—because Chardonnay is not an allowed variety in Alsace. … Read more
Michel Tête, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de Clos du Fief 2007
($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tête, one of the top Beaujolais producers, uses the name Domaine de Clos du Fief for the vineyards he owns in Juliénas, one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais allowed to carry the village name. Wines from Juliénas typically display a charming rusticity and true to form, this one combines that engaging quality with an earthy—almost briary—character that melds nicely with the bright red fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine Piron et Lafont, Chenas (Beaujolais, France) Quartz 2006
($18, Michael Skurnick): Chenas is one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais whose wines are distinctive and are allowed to carry the village name—instead of the more generic Beaujolais-Villages—on the label. The name, Quartz, comes from a vein of quartz running through the vineyard and is responsible for the wine’s earthy minerality, which acts as a lovely complement to its red cherry fruit-like flavors. … Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Stonewell” 2004
($80, Hess Imports): When I first tasted this wine–their current release–I immediately was reminded of what Louis Latour (the father of the current head of that renowned Burgundy firm) once told me, “Great wines always taste good.” Those who love young vigorous Shiraz are in for a treat because this one has all you’d expect, plus elegance and refinement–two words not usually used to describe Barossa Shiraz. … Read more
Philipponnat, Champagne (France) “Grand Blanc” Brut 2002
($70, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): 
Philipponnat is probably the most under-appreciated Champagne firm. They make a great array of wines, but, curiously, have little name recognition in this country. Although they are best known for the Pinot Noir-dominant wines (especially their stunning Clos des Goisses) this Grand Blanc, made exclusively from Chardonnay, shows they are equally talented with that varietal. … Read more
Please, No More Killer Cabernets
My hope for the New Year is that winemakers turn down the “volume” so we wine drinkers can savor the music.
It is clear that current popular taste embraces the ultra-intense style of wine–both white and red. Alcohol levels in these wines often soar to 15+ percent–and acid levels drop–as winemakers leave grapes on the vine to achieve ever more ripeness. … Read more
Fetzer Vineyards, California (United States) Chardonnay “Valley Oaks” 2008
($9): Fetzer, which made its name with well-priced wines, continues to do so with this bargain priced Chardonnay. Not an overdone style, it manages a delicate balance–especially hard to accomplish at this price range–between oak nuances and subtle tropical fruit flavors. … Read more
Cono Sur, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Carmenère 2008
($11, Vineyard Brands): Carmenère, a variety formerly popular in Bordeaux, has found a new home in Chile, where it flourishes. This mid-weight wine has an appealing spice and earthiness that acts as a good counterpoint to its ripe fruit profile. It’s easy to enjoy with pizza.… Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Private Bin” 2009
($15, Vineyard Brands): The 2009 vintage was particularly successful for New Zealand, according to David Strada, the US representative of New Zealand Wine, because there was no rain during harvest. This wine supports his assessment. Always a reliable Sauvignon Blanc, Villa Maria’s Private Bin in 2009 has an extra sense of ripeness which gives it a pleasing texture and fuller mouth feel without losing any of the signature zippy citric pungency. … Read more
Perrin et Fils, Vinsobres (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Cornuds” 2007
($22, Vineyard Brands): The French authorities elevated Vinsobres to its own appellation–on the same level as Châteauneuf du Pape–in 2005. They don’t have the grandeur–nor the price–of Châteauneuf, but like their Rhône neighbors to the south, they can be enjoyed when young. … Read more
Christian Moueix, Bordeaux (France) Merlot “Encore” 2005
($15, Kobrand): If the Moueix family, who owns or controls many properties in Pomerol–including Chateau Pétrus–where Merlot is king, can’t produce an exhilarating Merlot, then no one can. The name, Encore, is apt because after one taste you want more of this serious Merlot. … Read more
Vincent et Jean-Yves Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Maxine” Vieilles Vignes 2008
($43, Vineyard Brands): Made from Sauvignon Blanc vines that are more than 50 years old, this is a great Sancerre, with complexity that comes only from old vines. Fermented and aged in older oak barrels, you feel–not taste–the wood’s effect. This is not just Sauvignon Blanc; this is Sauvignon Blanc planted in Sancerre with the slightly chalky and earthy flavors unique to that locale. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de l’Echo 2005
($35, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): Couly-Dutheil is among the top–if not the top–producer of Chinon. And although he has a more expensive bottling, their Clos de l’Echo is always my favorite of his offerings. This single vineyard wine from a south-facing rocky slope takes its name from the echo generated between it and the château in Chinon.… Read more
Patient Cottat, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($11, Vineyard Brands): The Fournier family owns three domaines in and around Sancerre, in the heart of the Loire Valley, and is one of that region’s leading producers. In addition to their excellent appellation controllée Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, they produce this bright and lively Sauvignon Blanc, the same grape used in those two appellations. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Icon” 2008
($22, International Cellars): This, Nobilo’s top-of-the-line Pinot Noir, emphasizes clean ripe, sweet cherry-like fruit flavors. Earthy nuances peek out with air. Supple suave tannins allow immediate enjoyment. And thankfully, the under-14% stated alcohol allows the varietal character–Pinot Noir as opposed to “Pinot Syrah”–to shine.… Read more
Domaine Cherrier et Fils, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($25, Vineyard Brands): Many Sancerre these days lack distinctiveness and taste more like simple Sauvignon Blanc. Not this one, which shows why the vineyards around the tiny town of Sancerre on the Loire River have such a good reputation. Sure, it has the bright zesty verve of Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s real Sancerre, with layers of chalky minerality–even a smoky flinty element–and depth.… Read more
Peregrine, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2007
($32, Vineyard Brands): Central Otago is considered by some the best area in New Zealand for Pinot Noir–although producers in Marlborough or Martinborough would disagree. Peregrine has fashioned a plush ripe–almost sweet–fruit filled wine with mild, silky tannins. Earthy notes add balance and complexity. … Read more
Burgundy on the Rise
Burgundians were heralding the quality of the 2009 vintage–perhaps another “vintage of the century”–even before the grapes were harvested, let alone transformed into wine. That’s because the weather during the growing season predicted an extremely successful vintage. Prices at the just concluded 2009 Hospices de Beaune auction confirm the locals’ enthusiasm for the vintage. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2008
($25, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): Couly-Dutheil is arguably Chinon’s best producer and they show their talents again with this rare Chinon white (at least 95% of Chinon is red). A marvelous example of Chenin Blanc, it is more mineral–with chalky nuances–and less floral than Vouvray. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah “Ethos” 2006
($40): Chateau Ste. Michelle bottles their best varietal wines under the Ethos label. A blend from their best barrels, this Syrah has a small amount (2%) of Mourvedre that adds complexity. Big and ripe, it has enormous power, but yet, is not “over-the-top” despite its stated 14.7% alcohol. … Read more
Mohua, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2008
($20, Vineyard Brands): Twenty bucks for lovely Pinot Noir–Mohua (pronounced mow-who-a) has given us a Christmas present. A touch of earthy intrigue adds balance to this fruit-forward Pinot Noir. The tannins are barely noticeable which allows for immediate enjoyment. Despite its stated 14% alcohol, it has a lovely laciness that distinguishes it from the heavy overdone style of Pinot Noir flooding the market.… Read more
Gascon, Mendoza (Argentina) 2008
($14, Gascon USA): Malbec, a “forgotten” red variety from Bordeaux, has found a home in Argentina where it typically makes a big wine. In that vein, this one has ripe black fruit–almost grapey–flavors, is slightly chewy and delivers a direct impact. … Read more
Vincent Audras, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Haute-Combe 2006
($19, Becky Wasserman Selection): Julienas is one of the ten crus–best villages–within the Beaujolais region. This wine’s charmingly rustic character nicely complements and offsets the cherry-like fruitiness. Mild tannins and bright acidity lend structure without being abrasive. It’s a perfect “bistro” wine.… Read more
Château d’Oupia, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 2007
($12, Louis Dressner Selections): Minervois, a small appellation (10,000 acres) within the Languedoc, has the potential for producing wines with considerable character, such as this one. A wonderful mixture of gamey elements, earthy notes, and nuances of spice, it has remarkable suave and polished tannins for a wine from this area. … Read more
Château Lascaux, Côteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2006
($15, Kermit Lynch): The Côteaux du Languedoc is an appellation (25,000 acres, roughly half the size of Napa) within the enormous Languedoc (500,000 acres) (in southern France on the west side of Rhône River where the typical Rhone varieties thrive. A classic blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (35%) and Mourvedre, the Chateau Lascaux is filled with spice and herbal elements mingled with black fruit flavors. … Read more
Château St. Martin de la Garrigue, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) “Cuvée Tradition” 2006
($12, Kermit Lynch): A blend of Syrah and Carignan, Château St. Martin de la Garrigue’s Cuvée Tradition delivers a lot for the money. This charmingly rustic mixture of fresh red fruit flavors, appealing herbal qualities and moderate tannins makes this mid-weight wine a good choice for hearty wintry fare.… Read more
Château Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Meritage Red Wine 2006
($55): When in doubt as to what wine to buy, one from Château Ste. Michelle–at any price point–is a excellent choice because of their consistency. This one, a high end Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), Merlot (35%), Malbec (6%) and Petit Verdot, is suave and polished. … Read more
Terre Rouge, California (United States) Syrah “Les Côtes de l’Ouest” 2005
($18): Winemaker and owner Bill Easton bottles his wines made from Rhône grapes–Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier–under the Terre Rouge label, using the eponymous name for those made from other varietals. All of the vineyards that produce grapes for this wine face west, hence its name, Les Côtes de l’Ouest. … Read more
Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($27): A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) with a little Merlot (6%), and Cabernet Franc, it’s riper and more fruit forward than the usually more restrained Cabernet from South Africa. Hints of non-fruit flavors peek through and add complexity. Firm tannins and lively acidity help keep it from going over-the-top, but I can’t help wondering if some South African winemakers are catching the international high alcohol and slightly overripe virus.… Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($40): Just when you thought you could generalize that Cabernet from Washington were lighter and less ripe than their California counterparts, you discover it’s not that simple. This robust blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (79%), Petit Verdot (9%) Cabernet Franc (8%) and Merlot is as intense as any from California. … Read more
Hess, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($17): A blend of fruit from Mendocino, Lake, and Napa counties–with no one area exceeding the magical 85% number–means the label carries the general California appellation. But that should not deter you from buying this solid, enjoyable Cabernet. Blended with Syrah (8%) and Merlot (4%), this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers ripe flavors–without being overdone–supported by fine tannins. … Read more
The Wines of . . . Madrid?
When you think of Madrid, what pops into your mind? Vino or Prado? Prado, of course, one of the world’s most magnificent museums. But Madrid, not the city proper, but the autonomous region of Madrid–the roughly 3,000 square miles around the city–is home to about 50 wineries who produce a wide range of wines from indigenous as well as international grapes. … Read more
Egly-Ouriet, Champagne (France) “VP” Brut NV
($93, Ideal Wines):
Ninety-plus bucks for a non-vintage Champagne is asking a lot. But Egly-Ouriet delivers with their VP (Vieillissement Prolongé or long aging) bottling. Entirely from Grand Cru villages, this Champagne is a seamless blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. … Read more
Italy’s Soave region split over DOCG label
Italy – Everything should be coming up roses for Soave. The wines, historically among Italy’s best whites, have never been better.
Yet a debate over whether to use a new designation, Superiore DOCG, threatens to spoil the renaissance of a region that has finally recovered from a long spell as a source of underwhelming wine.… Read more
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc: All the Same?
“All Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc tastes the same,” is the major misconception that the industry must combat, according to Darryl Woolley, Chief Winemaker for the Constellation Group, which controls about ten percent of Marlborough’s production through their labels. Certainly the hallmark of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is the zesty, pleasantly pungent, grapefruit-like zing that makes these wines extraordinarily versatile–and popular–with a wide variety of foods, from simply grilled fish to Asian-influenced cuisine. … Read more
Marqués de Cáceres, Rioja (Spain) Blanco 2008
($8, Vineyard Brands): Yes, you read it correctly–a white wine from Rioja, Spain’s most recognized region for red wine. There’s a long tradition of making white wine in Rioja, but the local preference for a heavy slightly oxidized style made them impossible to sell in the United States. … Read more
The Grapes of Roth, Long Island (New York) Riesling 2008
($22): As Ed McCarthy, my colleague here at WRO, pointed out in a recent column, winemakers on Long Island’s East End are turning out some impressive wines. And this is one of them. Roman Roth, one of the area’s best winemakers and the brain behind winemaking at Wolffer Estate, also has his own label. … Read more
Taltarni, Pyrenees of Victoria (Victoria, Australia) “Cephas” 2003
($40, Clos du Val Wine Co.): A blend of Shiraz (81%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, Cephas is the flagship wine of Taltarni, Bernard Portet and Clos du Val’s outpost in Australia. This bold red–with slightly smoky with gamey undertones–still maintains the hallmark elegance of Clos du Val’s style. … Read more
Bodega Don Olegrio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($20, Kobrand): The script label makes deciphering the producer’s name difficult, but that should not deter consumers from reaching for the bottle. A softer–some would say “friendlier”–style of Albariño, it still has sufficient brightness and verve to hold your interest throughout a meal. … Read more
Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot 2005
($20, Vineyard Brands): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Merlot (42%), Cabernet Franc (6%) and Shiraz, this is surprisingly more fruit-forward than many of Ellis’s past offerings. Nonetheless, it delivers herbal, earthy notes that give it complexity and prevent it from being a fruit bomb. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2008
($23): SBS, an abbreviation widely used in Western Australia, stands for Sauvignon Blanc Semillon and indicates the blend of the two varieties. Bright and vigorous, this wine has engaging edginess and a lip-smacking citric finish, undoubtedly coming from the Sauvignon Blanc, which comprises 80% of the blend. … Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 2007
($58, Robert Kacher Selections): Givry, along with Mercurey, are the two most important villages for red wine in the Côte Chalonnaise. Wines from there may lack the prestige compared to those from the Côte d’Or, but are often equally enjoyable. Joblot, a leading producer based in Givry, makes wines from a number of that village’s vineyards. … Read more