($15, Kobrand): If the Moueix family, who owns or controls many properties in Pomerol–including Chateau Pétrus–where Merlot is king, can’t produce an exhilarating Merlot, then no one can. The name, Encore, is apt because after one taste you want more of this serious Merlot. … Read more
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Vincent et Jean-Yves Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Maxine” Vieilles Vignes 2008
($43, Vineyard Brands): Made from Sauvignon Blanc vines that are more than 50 years old, this is a great Sancerre, with complexity that comes only from old vines. Fermented and aged in older oak barrels, you feel–not taste–the wood’s effect. This is not just Sauvignon Blanc; this is Sauvignon Blanc planted in Sancerre with the slightly chalky and earthy flavors unique to that locale. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de l’Echo 2005
($35, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): Couly-Dutheil is among the top–if not the top–producer of Chinon. And although he has a more expensive bottling, their Clos de l’Echo is always my favorite of his offerings. This single vineyard wine from a south-facing rocky slope takes its name from the echo generated between it and the château in Chinon.… Read more
Patient Cottat, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($11, Vineyard Brands): The Fournier family owns three domaines in and around Sancerre, in the heart of the Loire Valley, and is one of that region’s leading producers. In addition to their excellent appellation controllée Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, they produce this bright and lively Sauvignon Blanc, the same grape used in those two appellations. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Icon” 2008
($22, International Cellars): This, Nobilo’s top-of-the-line Pinot Noir, emphasizes clean ripe, sweet cherry-like fruit flavors. Earthy nuances peek out with air. Supple suave tannins allow immediate enjoyment. And thankfully, the under-14% stated alcohol allows the varietal character–Pinot Noir as opposed to “Pinot Syrah”–to shine.… Read more
Domaine Cherrier et Fils, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($25, Vineyard Brands): Many Sancerre these days lack distinctiveness and taste more like simple Sauvignon Blanc. Not this one, which shows why the vineyards around the tiny town of Sancerre on the Loire River have such a good reputation. Sure, it has the bright zesty verve of Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s real Sancerre, with layers of chalky minerality–even a smoky flinty element–and depth.… Read more
Peregrine, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2007
($32, Vineyard Brands): Central Otago is considered by some the best area in New Zealand for Pinot Noir–although producers in Marlborough or Martinborough would disagree. Peregrine has fashioned a plush ripe–almost sweet–fruit filled wine with mild, silky tannins. Earthy notes add balance and complexity. … Read more
Burgundy on the Rise
Burgundians were heralding the quality of the 2009 vintage–perhaps another “vintage of the century”–even before the grapes were harvested, let alone transformed into wine. That’s because the weather during the growing season predicted an extremely successful vintage. Prices at the just concluded 2009 Hospices de Beaune auction confirm the locals’ enthusiasm for the vintage. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2008
($25, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): Couly-Dutheil is arguably Chinon’s best producer and they show their talents again with this rare Chinon white (at least 95% of Chinon is red). A marvelous example of Chenin Blanc, it is more mineral–with chalky nuances–and less floral than Vouvray. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah “Ethos” 2006
($40): Chateau Ste. Michelle bottles their best varietal wines under the Ethos label. A blend from their best barrels, this Syrah has a small amount (2%) of Mourvedre that adds complexity. Big and ripe, it has enormous power, but yet, is not “over-the-top” despite its stated 14.7% alcohol. … Read more
Mohua, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2008
($20, Vineyard Brands): Twenty bucks for lovely Pinot Noir–Mohua (pronounced mow-who-a) has given us a Christmas present. A touch of earthy intrigue adds balance to this fruit-forward Pinot Noir. The tannins are barely noticeable which allows for immediate enjoyment. Despite its stated 14% alcohol, it has a lovely laciness that distinguishes it from the heavy overdone style of Pinot Noir flooding the market.… Read more
Gascon, Mendoza (Argentina) 2008
($14, Gascon USA): Malbec, a “forgotten” red variety from Bordeaux, has found a home in Argentina where it typically makes a big wine. In that vein, this one has ripe black fruit–almost grapey–flavors, is slightly chewy and delivers a direct impact. … Read more
Vincent Audras, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Haute-Combe 2006
($19, Becky Wasserman Selection): Julienas is one of the ten crus–best villages–within the Beaujolais region. This wine’s charmingly rustic character nicely complements and offsets the cherry-like fruitiness. Mild tannins and bright acidity lend structure without being abrasive. It’s a perfect “bistro” wine.… Read more
Château d’Oupia, Minervois (Languedoc, France) 2007
($12, Louis Dressner Selections): Minervois, a small appellation (10,000 acres) within the Languedoc, has the potential for producing wines with considerable character, such as this one. A wonderful mixture of gamey elements, earthy notes, and nuances of spice, it has remarkable suave and polished tannins for a wine from this area. … Read more
Château Lascaux, Côteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2006
($15, Kermit Lynch): The Côteaux du Languedoc is an appellation (25,000 acres, roughly half the size of Napa) within the enormous Languedoc (500,000 acres) (in southern France on the west side of Rhône River where the typical Rhone varieties thrive. A classic blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (35%) and Mourvedre, the Chateau Lascaux is filled with spice and herbal elements mingled with black fruit flavors. … Read more
Château St. Martin de la Garrigue, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) “Cuvée Tradition” 2006
($12, Kermit Lynch): A blend of Syrah and Carignan, Château St. Martin de la Garrigue’s Cuvée Tradition delivers a lot for the money. This charmingly rustic mixture of fresh red fruit flavors, appealing herbal qualities and moderate tannins makes this mid-weight wine a good choice for hearty wintry fare.… Read more
Château Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Meritage Red Wine 2006
($55): When in doubt as to what wine to buy, one from Château Ste. Michelle–at any price point–is a excellent choice because of their consistency. This one, a high end Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), Merlot (35%), Malbec (6%) and Petit Verdot, is suave and polished. … Read more
Terre Rouge, California (United States) Syrah “Les Côtes de l’Ouest” 2005
($18): Winemaker and owner Bill Easton bottles his wines made from Rhône grapes–Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier–under the Terre Rouge label, using the eponymous name for those made from other varietals. All of the vineyards that produce grapes for this wine face west, hence its name, Les Côtes de l’Ouest. … Read more
Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($27): A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) with a little Merlot (6%), and Cabernet Franc, it’s riper and more fruit forward than the usually more restrained Cabernet from South Africa. Hints of non-fruit flavors peek through and add complexity. Firm tannins and lively acidity help keep it from going over-the-top, but I can’t help wondering if some South African winemakers are catching the international high alcohol and slightly overripe virus.… Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($40): Just when you thought you could generalize that Cabernet from Washington were lighter and less ripe than their California counterparts, you discover it’s not that simple. This robust blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (79%), Petit Verdot (9%) Cabernet Franc (8%) and Merlot is as intense as any from California. … Read more
Hess, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($17): A blend of fruit from Mendocino, Lake, and Napa counties–with no one area exceeding the magical 85% number–means the label carries the general California appellation. But that should not deter you from buying this solid, enjoyable Cabernet. Blended with Syrah (8%) and Merlot (4%), this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers ripe flavors–without being overdone–supported by fine tannins. … Read more
The Wines of . . . Madrid?
When you think of Madrid, what pops into your mind? Vino or Prado? Prado, of course, one of the world’s most magnificent museums. But Madrid, not the city proper, but the autonomous region of Madrid–the roughly 3,000 square miles around the city–is home to about 50 wineries who produce a wide range of wines from indigenous as well as international grapes. … Read more
Egly-Ouriet, Champagne (France) “VP” Brut NV
($93, Ideal Wines):
Ninety-plus bucks for a non-vintage Champagne is asking a lot. But Egly-Ouriet delivers with their VP (Vieillissement Prolongé or long aging) bottling. Entirely from Grand Cru villages, this Champagne is a seamless blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. … Read more
Italy’s Soave region split over DOCG label
Italy – Everything should be coming up roses for Soave. The wines, historically among Italy’s best whites, have never been better.
Yet a debate over whether to use a new designation, Superiore DOCG, threatens to spoil the renaissance of a region that has finally recovered from a long spell as a source of underwhelming wine.… Read more
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc: All the Same?
“All Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc tastes the same,” is the major misconception that the industry must combat, according to Darryl Woolley, Chief Winemaker for the Constellation Group, which controls about ten percent of Marlborough’s production through their labels. Certainly the hallmark of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is the zesty, pleasantly pungent, grapefruit-like zing that makes these wines extraordinarily versatile–and popular–with a wide variety of foods, from simply grilled fish to Asian-influenced cuisine. … Read more
Marqués de Cáceres, Rioja (Spain) Blanco 2008
($8, Vineyard Brands): Yes, you read it correctly–a white wine from Rioja, Spain’s most recognized region for red wine. There’s a long tradition of making white wine in Rioja, but the local preference for a heavy slightly oxidized style made them impossible to sell in the United States. … Read more
The Grapes of Roth, Long Island (New York) Riesling 2008
($22): As Ed McCarthy, my colleague here at WRO, pointed out in a recent column, winemakers on Long Island’s East End are turning out some impressive wines. And this is one of them. Roman Roth, one of the area’s best winemakers and the brain behind winemaking at Wolffer Estate, also has his own label. … Read more
Taltarni, Pyrenees of Victoria (Victoria, Australia) “Cephas” 2003
($40, Clos du Val Wine Co.): A blend of Shiraz (81%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, Cephas is the flagship wine of Taltarni, Bernard Portet and Clos du Val’s outpost in Australia. This bold red–with slightly smoky with gamey undertones–still maintains the hallmark elegance of Clos du Val’s style. … Read more
Bodega Don Olegrio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($20, Kobrand): The script label makes deciphering the producer’s name difficult, but that should not deter consumers from reaching for the bottle. A softer–some would say “friendlier”–style of Albariño, it still has sufficient brightness and verve to hold your interest throughout a meal. … Read more
Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot 2005
($20, Vineyard Brands): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Merlot (42%), Cabernet Franc (6%) and Shiraz, this is surprisingly more fruit-forward than many of Ellis’s past offerings. Nonetheless, it delivers herbal, earthy notes that give it complexity and prevent it from being a fruit bomb. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2008
($23): SBS, an abbreviation widely used in Western Australia, stands for Sauvignon Blanc Semillon and indicates the blend of the two varieties. Bright and vigorous, this wine has engaging edginess and a lip-smacking citric finish, undoubtedly coming from the Sauvignon Blanc, which comprises 80% of the blend. … Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 2007
($58, Robert Kacher Selections): Givry, along with Mercurey, are the two most important villages for red wine in the Côte Chalonnaise. Wines from there may lack the prestige compared to those from the Côte d’Or, but are often equally enjoyable. Joblot, a leading producer based in Givry, makes wines from a number of that village’s vineyards. … Read more
Taltarni, Victoria (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($13, Clos du Val Wine Company): Taltarni has fashioned a “friendlier” version of Sauvignon Blanc compared to the more bracing ones that come from Marlborough, New Zealand. It conveys a little creaminess that rounds out the pungency inherent to the varietal. … Read more
An Unlikely Area Producing Very Likeable Wines
The Niagara Peninsula is as unlikely a place as you can imagine for producing fine wines. Let’s start with the obvious. It’s in Canada–and not Western Canada where more temperate climate prevails. The Niagara Peninsula is a strip of land in Eastern Canada separating Lake Ontario from Lake Erie.… Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2008
($13, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof invariably offers great value. This 2008 Syrah is no exception. Expressing the meaty, beefy side of Syrah rather than the peppery aspect, it is an engaging wine with supple texture that makes it perfect for current drinking with hearty fare.… Read more
Albert Morot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Bressandes 2007
($63, Robert Kacher Selections): Morot, who owns about 3.25 acres of the large–by Burgundy standards–(43-acre) 1er Cru Bressandes vineyard, made a classic red Burgundy from those grapes in 2007, a vintage that produced many charming forward red Burgundies. One whiff of the gloriously perfumed nose predicts good things will follow. … Read more
Château D’Aqueria, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2008
($19, Kobrand): Tavel, a village in the south of France near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, makes only rosé wine from the usual blend of Rhône grapes–including Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Almost light red in color, this dry wine conveys serious strawberry-tinged flavors that spread over the palate. … Read more
José Maria da Fonseca, Terras do Sado (Portugal) “Periquita” 2006
($10, Palm Bay International): This regional wine–the Portuguese equivalent of a French Vin de Pays or Italian IGT–hails from the southwest part of the country across the Tagus River from Lisbon on the Setúbal peninsula. Made mostly (80%) from an indigenous grape, Castelão, it provides great value with each vintage, and the 2006 is no exception. … Read more
Marqués de Cáceres, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2002
($25, Vineyard Brands): Forget everything you might have heard about a mediocre 2002 vintage in Rioja. This is a wonderful wine that proves vintage charts need be taken with a grain of salt. Better to focus on the producer. In this case, Marqués de Cáceres, one of Rioja’s best. … Read more
Faustino, Rioja (Spain) “Faustino V” Reserva 2004
($21, Palm Bay International): Rioja, Spain’s most widely known wine region, continues to offer 
consumers wines with a fabulous combination of ripe fruit flavors and earthy elements. Not a modern fruit bomb, this gorgeous, traditional blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Mazuelo delivers a stylish balance of bright red fruit and savory notes surrounded by polished tannins. … Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “Selección” 2007
($20, Alamos USA): Alamos is another label from Bodegas Catena, arguably Argentina’s
leading producer. In addition to this 100% Malbec bottling, a selection of their best Malbec, they also produce an attractive Malbec blend with 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda. … Read more
Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2006
($26, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Less well-known towns just outside of Beaune in the heart of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, such as Savigny- or Chorey-lès-Beaune (lès means near), offer consumers an excellent opportunity to savor the charms of Burgundy without taking out a second mortgage. … Read more
Gordon Brothers, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah 2006
($20): Very attractive aromas of earthy minerality along with black fruit give forth to similar flavors on the palate. This Syrah emphasizes the ripe plummy character of the grape as opposed to the spicy, peppery quality. Nicely balanced, and not flamboyant, it has a pleasingly polished texture, making it perfect for current consumption.… Read more
Abadia Retuerta, Castilla y León (Spain) “Selección Especial” 2006
($20, Kobrand): Located just outside of Spain’s prestigious Ribera del Duero region, Abadia Retuerta has been producing stylish, well-price wines since 1996 when the pharmaceutical company Novartis finally–a decade after its purchase–completed replanting the vineyards and finished their a state-of-the-art gravity flow winery. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2007
($30): With Clos du Val’s location in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley and owner Bernard Portet’s Bordeaux heritage, it’s not surprising that they make superb Cabernet Sauvignon. What continues to surprise me–although it shouldn’t since they have been doing it consistently over the years–is how good their Pinot Noir is. … Read more
Please Don’t Dilute
Many wine regulations make no sense. But to me, the worst is the one that allows a portion, usually 15%, of grapes from outside of an appellation to be included in a wine and yet keep the appellation’s name of the label.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “La Foret” 2006
($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): All Burgundy is highly dependent on producer, but none more than those labeled Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy’s lowliest appellation seen on these shores. Since Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s top producers, don’t miss this one. This value-packed 2006 La Foret, their basic red Burgundy, delivers simple, straightforward red and black fruit flavors intertwined with just a hint of earthy, leafy notes. … Read more
Does wine really prevent heart problems?
When people discover that I’m a liver doctor and a wine writer, they invariably ask, “How much can I drink without developing liver disease?” They never ask, “How much should I drink to stay healthy?”
People know that alcohol – and wine – can cause liver disease.… Read more
Castelo de Medina, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2008
($13, Elite Wines): With summer upon us—at least by the calendar—here’s a perfect crisp refreshing white for simple seafood. Verdejo is an indigenous Spanish grape rarely found outside of that country. In this rendition, delicate herbal notes complement the citric tang and lend more complexity than you’d imagine given the price. … Read more
Jose Pariente, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2007
($17, Grapes of Spain): Verdejo—not to be confused with the Portuguese grape, Verdelho—is the primary grape of Rueda, one of Spain’s superb regions for white wines. This one is lively and fresh with an ever so slightly waxy texture that adds to its overall appeal. … Read more