($17, Louis Latour, USA): 
Saint-Bris is an odd-ball appellation in northern Burgundy near Chablis that requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay. Saint-Bris sits on the same Kimmerigdian limestone as Chablis, yet the microclimate favors Sauvignon over Chardonnay. Since Sancerre is barely 60 miles to the west, it’s easy to understand how Sauvignon could thrive here. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2020
($18, Dreyfus Ashby): 
Another trifecta here — Drouhin, a great producer. Twenty-twenty, a great vintage across the board for whites. Eighteen dollars, an excellent price for a wine of this quality. Bourgogne Blanc, made entirely from Chardonnay, can come from vineyards throughout the region, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2019
($37, Louis Latour, USA): 
Wines from Marsannay, the northernmost village of the Côte de Nuits, are finally getting the attention they deserve. French wine regulators are evaluating which vineyards within the Marsannay appellation will qualify for premier cru status. Once that happens, prices will accelerate even faster, much like what has happened since Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards received official premier cru classification. … Read more
Domaine Jean Féry, Côte de Nuits-Villages (Burgundy, France) Clos de Magny 2020
($40, Jeanne Marie Selection): 
In the ongoing search for more affordable red Burgundy, consumers must look to less familiar appellations, such as this one, Côte de Nuits-Villages, which encompasses vines in five different villages in the Côte de Nuits, but not the well-known ones. … Read more
Lucia, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay 2020
($48): 
The Pisoni family, who owns Lucia, is one the leading producers in the Santa Lucia Highlands, a ridge that runs southeast to northwest and allows cooling air and fog from Monterey Bay and the Pacific Ocean to cool the vineyards. … Read more
Lucia, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay Soberanes Vineyard 2020
($65): 
This single vineyard Chardonnay from the Pisoni family’s Soberances Vineyard delivers more muscle and power compared to their blended Chardonnay. Despite more power and concentration, it remains a balanced wine, not an overdone heavy weight. An elegance and energy complement its seductive butter-like richness. … Read more
Masút Vineyard and Winery, Eagle Peak (Mendocino County, California) Chardonnay Estate Vineyard 2020
($42): 
Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of Barney Fetzer who founded the very popular and successful Fetzer Vineyards in Mendocino County in 1968, have followed the family tradition. Working together, they are responsible for both the viticulture and winemaking at Masút, a 1,200-acre property their parents founded in 1994. … Read more
Hess Select, California (United States) Pinot Gris 2021
($14): 
With is pear-like nuances and good weight, this wine is labeled appropriately as Pinot Gris rather than Pinot Grigio, since it tastes more of Alsace than of Italy. It has sufficient acidity to accompany food, but not so much as to invalidate it as an aperitif type wine. … Read more
Pazo Cilleiro, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2021
($20, Quintessential Wines): 
This wine is for those of you who have not yet been introduced to the wines from Rías Baixas, the maritime-influenced northwestern corner of Spain. In fact, it is also for those who love the energetic lively wines of that appellation. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2016
($110, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports): 
This wine is the vinous equivalent of a hat trick in hockey, which is three goals by the same player in a period. In this case, it’s three greats — great producer, great vintage, great site. … Read more
Château de Haute-Serre, Cahors (Sud-Ouest, France) “Lucter” 2018
($20, Baron François Imports): 
The Vigouroux family, owner of Château de Haute-Serre, is legendary in Cahors. If not the best producer in that region, they certainly rank with the top ones. Though best known as an Argentinian grape, Malbec’s origin and traditional home is the Cahors appellation. … Read more
Domaine Aurelie Berthod, Chorey les Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2020
($40): The vast majority of the vineyards of the Côte d’Or — and certainly all the great ones — lie on a slope to the west of the D976, (formerly the RN76), the major north-south highway than runs from Marsannay in the north to Maranges in the south. … Read more
Pascual Toso, Mendoza (Argentina) Chardonnay 2020
($14, Quintessential Wines): 
On an absolute scale, this is not a 90-point wine. But — and I can hear my editor smoldering — it gets extra points for value. It is fruity, but not too. There’s a splash, not a tsunami, of oak. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Roero Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Bric Paradiso” 2017
($30, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports): 
Like Langhe Nebbiolo appellation, Roero is also over-shadowed by its more famous neighbors, Barolo and Barbaresco. This is a DOCG that deserves more recognition because of the high quality/price ration. Carretta’s 2017 is a good example. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Podio” 2020
($21, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports): 
Wines carrying the Langhe Nebbiolo appellation, especially from a top producer like Carretta, can be a great way for consumers to be introduced to the charms of the more prestigious Nebbiolo-based wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, without breaking the bank. … Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Viña Eguía” 2017
($19, Quintessential Wines): 
Moving up the Rioja quality ladder brings us to the Reserva category, just below the top level of Gran Reserva. Rioja Reserva must be aged for a minimum of three years, at least one of which must be in barrel. … Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Crianza (Spain) Tempranillo Fincas de la Villa 2018
($16, Quintessential Wines): 
Wines from Rioja are typically classified by the amount of aging before release. (I say typically, because some producers are now labeling their Rioja by vineyard site rather than aging requirements.) Crianza means the wine has had two years of aging, at least one of which has been in barrel, prior to release. … Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja (Spain) Tempranillo “Viña Eguía” 2020
($15, Quintessential Wines): 
Despite rising prices for wine world-wide, Spain, even prestigious areas such as Rioja, still remains a source for terrific bargains. Take this one, for example. It delivers a balanced mixture of berry-like fruitiness and a touch of spice, supported by sufficient but not intrusive structure. … Read more
Quinto do Vallado, Douro (Portugal) Quinta do Orga Superior 2019
($40, Quintessential Wines): 
Although Quinta do Vallado’s non fortified wines may be a relatively new addition to their portfolio, the notable Port-producing Ferreira family has owned the quinta for six generations. This big red wine, a blend of typical Port grapes of Touriga Nacional (80%), Touriga Franca (18%), and Sousão, display remarkable elegance for its size. … Read more
Quinto do Vallado, Douro (Portugal) Field Blend, Reserva 2019
($65, Quintessential Wines): 
This bold red, a blend of the usual grapes for making Port, Tinta Roriz (Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca) from vines that are 60 to 100 years old, is rich and luxurious. Like Quinto do Vallado’s other red table wines, their Field Blend Reserva has a silky texture that enrobes its power and depth. … Read more
Quinto do Vallado, Douro (Portugal) Sousão 2019
($55, Quintessential Wines): 
I have never encountered a wine made exclusively from Sousão, a traditional Portuguese grape frequently used in the blend for making Port. Judging from this one, I look forward to sampling more of them. It delivers the all too infrequently found combination of power and freshness. … Read more
Concha y Toro, Valle del Maipo (Central Valley, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Marquis de Casa Concha” 2019
($21, Eagle Peak Estates): 
Despite a similar ripe dark fruit quality and the same 14.5 percent stated alcohol as the Carménère in this line, Concha y Toro’s Marquis de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon has a very different flavor profile. This bold Cabernet displays a lovely hint of olives, mint, and other savory notes that balance and enhance its dark berry flavors. … Read more
Concha y Toro, Peumo (Cachapoal Valley, Chile) Carménère “Marquis de Casa Concha” 2020
($22, Eagle Peak Estates): 
Carménère, a grape once mistaken for Merlot in Chile, often displays an alluring, slightly herbal component. A hint of that character peeks through the quite ripe — 14.5 percent stated alcohol — profile of this one. A perception of sweetness accompanies its ripe dark fruit character. … Read more
Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) “Collection 242” NV
($62): 
Roederer, certainly one of the very top names in Champagne, has replaced its Brut Premier bottling with the Collection line. As much as I enjoyed their Brut Premier, Roederer’s Collection bottling is a big step up, at least judging from the first release, Collection 242. … Read more
Lenné Estate, Yamhill-Carlton District (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “South Slope Select” 2019
($55): 
I was unfamiliar with Lenné’s wines before tasting this Pinot Noir and their Sad Jack bottling. I am now adding Lenné to my list of favorite Oregon producers. While both wines are extraordinary in their own right, comparing them shows the amazing spectrum of Pinot Noir. … Read more
Lenné Estate, Yamhill-Carlton District (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir “Sad Jack 777” 2019
($55): 
In my opinion, Sad Jack is the wrong name for this bottling because drinking it makes me extremely happy. Intriguing aromatics draw you in immediately and accurately predict joy. The seamless mixture of fruit, spice, and savory influences in this mid-weight red is beguiling. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2018
($58): 
I was surprised and did a double take as I pulled the cork. There, in bold letters, was Potter’s Vineyard. I figured somebody screwed up somewhere. No, it turns out that Vino Vasai, Italian for potter’s wine, explains why the cork proclaims that name. … Read more
Vino Vasai, Chehalem Mountains (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2017
($58): 
It is either an extra year of bottle age, a different growing season, or more likely, a combination of both, that makes Vino Vasai’s 2017 such an exciting wine. Lighter than the 2018 vintage release, and more red-fruited than black, it’s energetic and elegant. … Read more
Domaine Aux Moines, Savennières Roche aux Moines (Loire Valley, France) 2019
($48): 
Savennières Roche aux Moines is one of two crus of the greater Savennières appellation (the other is Coulée de Serrant). Though the tiny area (80 acres) has been known for distinctive wines since the 12th century, it received its own appellation, carved out of the broader Savennières, in 2011. … Read more
Rural Wine Company, Eagle Peak (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2019
($17): 
The focus of this mid-weight and well-priced Pinot Noir is clearly on the fruity, cherry-juice aspect of that grape. Suave tannins allow for immediate enjoyment. It carries the 14 percent stated alcohol without difficulty. A touch of sweetness in the finish allows consumers to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitivo-type of wine or with spicy Latin America fare.… Read more
Masút Vineyard and Winery, Eagle Peak (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir “Big Barrel” 2019
($65): 
Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of Barney Fetzer who founded the very popular and successful Fetzer Vineyards in Mendocino County in 1968, have followed the family tradition. Working together, they are in charge of both the viticulture and winemaking at Masút, a 1,200-acre property their parents founded in 1994. … Read more
Masút Vineyard and Winery, Eagle Peak (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard 2019
($45): 
Masút’s 2019 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir is simply stunning at this stage. It shows the enormous complexity for which Pinot Noir is known, combining savory earthy notes with delicate fruity ones. There’s spice and excellent energy in this wine that leaves you wanting another sip. … Read more
Luretta, Colli Piacentini DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Aromatica di Candia “Boccadirosa” 2020
($30, USA Wine Imports): 
In addition to the innumerable DOCs, the Italians use a mind-boggling number of grapes for their wines, which is another reason the wines from that country are so exciting to explore. Malvasia Aromatica di Candia had me running to Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes, which informed me that although Candia is an old name for Crete, there is no genetic evidence that is originated on that Greek Island. … Read more
Luretta, Gutturnio Superiore DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) 2018
($25, USA Wine Imports): 
One of the exciting and bewildering things about Italian wines is the ever-increasing number of DOCs that sprout like mushrooms after a rain. Gutturnio Superiore is a new one to me. Formerly a part of the Colli Piacentini, another DOC I’ve heard of but could not find on a map, Gutturnio is the northwest part of Emilia Romagna, bordering both Piedmont and Lombardy, which may explain the grapes, Barbera and Croatina, used in this wine. … Read more
Pisoni Family Vineyards, Monterey County (California) “Lucy Pico Blanco” 2021
($22): 
Filled with lots of tropical fruit-like flavors, this charming blend of Pinot Gris (70%) and Pinot Blanc displays good weight— that’s its 13.9 percent stated alcohol speaking — buttressed by sufficient balancing acidity. The tropical fruit profile conveys the barest hint of sweetness, but the energy imparted by the acidity holds it together nicely. … Read more
Bonny Doon Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Picpoul 2021
($16): 
Picpoul, literally translated as “lip stinger,” is widely planted in southern France where it’s prized for its impressive acidity. Growers also love it for its propensity towards high yields. Though I’ve had plenty of experience with Picpoul de Pinet, a southern French wine made from the same grape, this is the first one I’ve tasted from California, even though Randall Grahm tells me he’s been making this wine for six or seven years. … Read more
Petilia, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2019
($22, Dark Star Imports): 
Greco di Tufo is one of Italy’s great white wines and justifiability deserves its DOCG designation. The volcanic Campanian soil and the region’s climate allow the grape to shine. The emphasis of Petilia’s 2019 is on a lava-like minerality rather than fruitiness. … Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley, France) 2017
($87, Vintus): 
Quarts de Chaume, a tiny appellation of barely 75 acres, is the only Grand Cru in the Loire Valley. It is arguably the “Montrachet of the Loire,” only it produces spectacular sweet wines from the Chenin Blanc grape. What makes these wines so special is their elegance and lightness juxtaposed to their presence and persistence. … Read more
Bouvet-Ladubay, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “Tresor” 2018
($20): 
The Loire Valley produces a lot of sparkling wines under Crémant de la Loire appellation. Often overlooked are sparkling ones from other Loire appellations, such as this one from Saumur, an appellation that predates that of Crémant de la Loire and mandates that the grape come a smaller area just around the town of Saumur. … Read more
De Chanceny, Crémant de la Loire (Loire Valley, France) Brut Nature 2015
($20): 
Crémant de la Loire is a category of sparkling wines that consumers should embrace. Many of these traditionally made (secondary fermentation in the bottle as with Champagne) bubblies provide great enjoyment at an affordable price. Take De Chanceny’s Brut Nature, for example. … Read more
Château de Villeneuve, Saumur-Champigny (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2020
($20): 
The Loire Valley’s Saumur-Champigny appellation is a treasure trove for mid-weight Cabernet Franc-based red wines. Cabernet Franc, a grape that doesn’t tolerate drought well, is perfectly suited to the sponge-like water retaining capacity of the tuffeau stone (local name for chalk, which is omnipresent in this appellation that surrounds the picturesque town of Saumur) and explains why that grape accounts for well over 90 percent of the plantings in the appellation. … Read more
Gosset, Champagne (France) Excellence Brut NV
($48): 
Claiming to be “the oldest wine house in Champagne (Aÿ 1584),” Gosset makes a stylish line-up of wines. Their creamy and refined “Excellence,” their entry-level, non-vintage offering, delivers great enjoyment for the price. A good spine of acidity balances its pleasing roundness. … Read more
Château Rollan de By, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2015
($48): 
Château Rollan de By is a perpetual overachiever, and one of the several properties that now comprise Jean Guyon led Domaine Rollan de By and includes Château Greysac. The French wine authorities have awarded it Cru Bourgeois status, a category that sits just below the more prestigious Cru Classé. … Read more
Trapiche, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “Oak Cask” 2021
($10): 
Malbec, originally from Bordeaux and Cahors in southwest France, has become Argentina’s signature red grape. This bargain-priced one packs plenty of punch and hints of vanilla — the oak cask designation speaking. Its suave texture and intensity make it a fine choice for a summertime BBQ party. … Read more
Wölffer Estate, Long Isand (New York) Malbec 2019
($32): 
Wölffer Estate, though best known for their Rosés (they list seven on their website) make a bevy of other top-notch wines, including this Malbec. I am not a Malbec enthusiastic because all too often the wines are heavy, monotonic reds. … Read more
Palmer Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Albariño 2021
($33): 
The Massoud family, who own Paumanok Vineyards on Long Island’s North Fork, recently acquired neighboring Palmer Vineyards, which means that the very talented Kareem Massoud made this wine. Albariño, best known for Spain’s wonderfully fresh and lively wines from Rías Baixas region, has been planted on Long Island since at least 2007 when Miguel Martin, former general manager and winemaker at Palmer who had lived in Spain, planted it. … Read more
Channing Daughters, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Cabernet Franc 2019
($30): 
New York is the country’s third leading state (behind California and Washington) in terms of wine production. The North Fork of Long Island is one of the state’s leading regions. Cabernet Franc does especially well there. Thankfully, over the last decade winemakers have transformed the character of their Cabernet Franc from a Cabernet Sauvignon-styled powerhouse to a lighter, Loire-style version. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) “Les Genièvres” 2020
($18, Louis Latour, USA): 
I’ve been buying and drinking this Mâcon-Lugny from Latour regularly since the 1979 vintage. It never disappoints and surprisingly, for a rather down-market appellation, actually develops beautifully with several years of bottle age. With the price of Côte d’Or white Burgundy through the roof, wines, such as this one, from the Mâconnais are the way to go for Burgundy lovers. … Read more
Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Les Pargues” 2019
($43): 
This is another stunning example of Eleni and Edouard Vocoret’s talents. Like their Chablis Le Bas de Chapelot, their Les Pargues hits above its weight class, though with a slightly different profile. Flinty and stony, there’s a saline-like character in the finish. … Read more
Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Le Bas de Chapelot” 2019
($43): 
Eleni and Edouard Vocoret are new kids on the Chablis block. Chablis-lovers would be wise to remember their names. Their domaine, not even a decade old, is spread over about a dozen acres in Chablis. Traditionally, producers in Chablis have not focused on its lieux-dits (named sites) that are under the village umbrella compared to say, Meursault, for example. … Read more