Category Archives: Reviews

Château de Villeneuve, Saumur-Champigny (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2020

($20):  The Loire Valley’s Saumur-Champigny appellation is a treasure trove for mid-weight Cabernet Franc-based red wines.  Cabernet Franc, a grape that doesn’t tolerate drought well, is perfectly suited to the sponge-like water retaining capacity of the tuffeau stone (local name for chalk, which is omnipresent in this appellation that surrounds the picturesque town of Saumur) and explains why that grape accounts for well over 90 percent of the plantings in the appellation. Read more

Palmer Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Albariño 2021

($33):  The Massoud family, who own Paumanok Vineyards on Long Island’s North Fork, recently acquired neighboring Palmer Vineyards, which means that the very talented Kareem Massoud made this wine.  Albariño, best known for Spain’s wonderfully fresh and lively wines from Rías Baixas region, has been planted on Long Island since at least 2007 when Miguel Martin, former general manager and winemaker at Palmer who had lived in Spain, planted it. Read more

Channing Daughters, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Cabernet Franc 2019

($30):  New York is the country’s third leading state (behind California and Washington) in terms of wine production.  The North Fork of Long Island is one of the state’s leading regions.  Cabernet Franc does especially well there.  Thankfully, over the last decade winemakers have transformed the character of their Cabernet Franc from a Cabernet Sauvignon-styled powerhouse to a lighter, Loire-style version. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) “Les Genièvres” 2020

($18, Louis Latour, USA):  I’ve been buying and drinking this Mâcon-Lugny from Latour regularly since the 1979 vintage.  It never disappoints and surprisingly, for a rather down-market appellation, actually develops beautifully with several years of bottle age.  With the price of Côte d’Or white Burgundy through the roof, wines, such as this one, from the Mâconnais are the way to go for Burgundy lovers. Read more

Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Le Bas de Chapelot” 2019

($43):  Eleni and Edouard Vocoret are new kids on the Chablis block.  Chablis-lovers would be wise to remember their names.  Their domaine, not even a decade old, is spread over about a dozen acres in Chablis.  Traditionally, producers in Chablis have not focused on its lieux-dits (named sites) that are under the village umbrella compared to say, Meursault, for example. Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Corton Grancey” 2019

($190, Louis Latour, USA):  Louis Latour is King of the Hill of Corton because of the quality of the wines that emanate from their extensive holdings there.  Corton Grancey, a blend from five distinct Grand Cru climats of Corton — Bressandes, Perrières, Clos du Roi, Grèves, and Chaumes — is their top red wine from the Côte de Beaune. Read more

Cecchi, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva di Famiglia” 2015

($32, Terlato Wines International):  Cecchi’s Chianti Classico Riserva, unsurprisingly, is bigger and more powerful than their 2019 regular (annata) bottling.  Weighing in at 14 percent stated alcohol, it has more power, yet retains elegance.  The wood is still showing at this stage, but from my experience with their wines, it will become better integrated after another year or so in the bottle. Read more

Mauro Veglio, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2018

($45):  This family-owned firm makes a range of Barolo from four of the important vineyards or cru in the DOCG and this one, made from grapes grown in La Morra and Monforte d’Alba where they also have vineyards.  It’s a masterful blend that shows the value of the tradition of blending from throughout the Barolo DOCG versus the more recent trend towards single vineyard bottling. Read more

Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Barolo del Comune di Barolo” 2016

($63, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):  The combination of an outstanding vintage (2016) and an outstanding producer (Marchesi di Barolo) equals an outstanding wine.  The wine is a blend from their vineyards within in the municipality of Barolo, one of the 11 villages that comprise the DOCG and the one from which the DOCG takes its name. Read more

Marchesi di Barolo, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Peiragal” 2018

($27, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.):  In 1980, Ernesto, the patriarch of the family, either foolishly or prophetically planted Barbera in the Paiagallo vineyard, one of Barolo’s top vineyards for Nebbiolo.  Valentina, his daughter, recounted that her father replaced the more valuable Nebbiolo vines with Barbera, even though he realized it was not in his economic interest. Read more

Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Virginia’s Block, Jane’s Vineyard 2020

($25):  This mid-weight Sauvignon Blanc delivers plenty of concentration along with balancing energy.  Its 14.5 percent stated alcohol announces itself with a touch of heat in the finish, but the overall effect is not one of heaviness, just intensity.  It is a Sauvignon Blanc with power, which makes it a fine choice with tomato-based seafood dishes.Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc “Fumé Blanc” 2020

($20):  Dry Creek Vineyard has always excelled with Sauvignon Blanc.  And the 2020 is no exception.  A trio of Sauvignon species, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Musqué, and Sauvignon Gris, comprise the blend of this winsome wine.  Dry Creek names it Fume Blanc to remind the consumer it’s a Loire style of Sauvignon Blanc  — zippy and mineraly — in contrast to those coming from Bordeaux. Read more

Château d’Épiré, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2018

($26, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):  Chenin Blanc makes a wide range of wine, from this bone-dry version to fruity ones and lusciously sweet examples.  Although regulations for Savennières, a small 350-acre appellation on the north side of the Loire River just southwest of Angers, allow for sweet wines, in reality the vast majority of wines from the appellation are dry. Read more

Lucien Le Moine, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2019

($62, Vintus):  Lucien Le Moine, a tiny “boutique” négociant, bottles only about 100 barrels of premier and grand cru red and white Burgundies annually (about 2,500 12-bottle cases).  They are of uniformly high-quality, in short supply, and expensive.  He also produces a Bourgogne Rouge and Bourgogne Blanc that are more readily available and punch far above their weight class. Read more

RGNY, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Viognier 2020

($27):  RGNY stands for Rivero González New York.  The family started in the wine business in 1998 in Parras Coahuila Mexico.  Two decades later they acquired the Martha Clara Winery on the North Fork of Long Island.  They have made a brilliant 2020 Viognier, a difficult grape to turn into an elegant wine because it needs to be fairly ripe to exhibit its charms. Read more

Paumanok Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Chenin Blanc 2020

($26):  Paumanok Vineyards excels with Chenin Blanc.  It’s always a delight.  The 2020 is no exception.  Crisp with a delicate fruitiness, it conveys the barest hint of sweetness.  Its vibrant and balancing acidity, along with a modest 11 percent-stated alcohol, makes it an exciting wine to pair with sushi, spicy Asian fare, BBQ, or just sipping it as an aperitif. Read more

Channing Daughters, Long Isand (New York) “Rosso Fresco” 2019

($23):  Channing Daughters has always been an oddball on Long Island.  Firstly, the deceased Walter Channing founded the winery on Long Island’s South Fork, as opposed to the North Fork where 90 percent of Long Island’s wineries are located.  Secondly, he planted oddball grapes — at least for Long Island —  including Dorfelder and Lagrein, to name just two. Read more

Gambal-Work, Sta. Rita Hills (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Bentrock Vineyard 2018

($45):  It should come as no surprise that Gambal-Work’s Chardonnay should be outstanding, considering the beauty of Alex Gambal’s white Burgundies.  This tightly wound one from the Bentrock vineyard displays a chalky minerality reminiscent of a top Chassagne-Montrachet.  Youthful and reticent, it needs time in the glass to express itself. Read more