($18, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
This is a differently styled Montepulciano from Illuminati’s Riparossso, highlighting the more herbal and savory side of that grape. Despite similar weight and concentration, it’s a more aromatic and energetic wine, which makes it a fine choice for current consumption with a sausage-infused tomato sauce for pasta.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) Riserva “Zanna” 2015
($38, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Colline Teramane, the hills around Teramano, in the north of Abruzzo, neighboring the Marche, is Abruzzo’s sole DOCG. Judging from this line-up of Illuminati’s wines, it certainly deserves that accolade based on the quality of this release. … Read more
Côté Mas, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) NV
($17, Taub Family Selections): 
Limoux, a village in the foothills of the Pyrenes in southwestern France, has a long tradition — likely longer even than Champagne — for making sparkling wines. Côté Mas, led by Jean-Claude Mas and his encompassing 15 properties covering about 2,000 acres, is one of the leading producers in the Languedoc. … Read more
Château Surain, Bordeaux (France) 2019
($11): 
With its 15 percent-stated alcohol, this deeply colored and broad-based, bold Bordeaux emphasizes ripe and lush fruitiness, yet has sufficient balancing herbal character. Good acidity keeps it fresh and a pleasant hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its character. … Read more
Los Vascos, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Chardonnay 2020
($14, Taub Family Selections): 
Los Vascos consistently produces an excellent-value Chardonnay. The 2020 fits that mold. Zesty acidity balances delicate tropical fruit-like flavors in this mid-weight Chardonnay. Those looking for the rich, buttery style should look elsewhere. Those who want a spritely rendition will love it and its price. … Read more
Los Vascos, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Cromas” Gran Reserva 2018
($22, Taub Family Selections): 
This Cromas Gran Reserva is the new name for Los Vascos’ mid-level Cabernet Sauvignon, below Le Dix in stature, but above their straight Cabernet. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) with Syrah and Carménère, it’s ripe and plush. … Read more
I Saltari, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2015
($30, Romano Brands): 
I Saltari, part of the highly-acclaimed Sartori di Verona wine group, releases their Valpolicella Superiore when they think it’s ready to drink. That explains why the 2015 is the current vintage on the retail market and tastes nothing like most Valpolicella. … Read more
Grignano, Chianti Rufina DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($24, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Consumers sometimes forget there are sub-zones other than Chianti Classico in the greater Chianti area that spreads between Florence and Siena. The Chianti Rufina area, just to the northeast of Florence, is home to some wonderful wines, including this one from Grignano. … Read more
Louis Jadot, Côte de Beaune-Villages, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026Warm vintages such as 2018, provide less prestigious appellations, such as this one, with often-needed ripeness which enhances their appeal. Though a négociant bottling, winemaker Frédéric Barnier included some declassified estate fruit from Santenay, Monthélie, Chorey- and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which likely accounts for the wine’s density.
Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Beaumonts, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028Chorey lès Beaune has no 1er cru and much of its vineyards lie on the other side of the D974 road connecting Dijon and Beaune. Les Beaumonts climat, however, lies on the ‘good’ side of the road, nestled between Aloxe-Corton and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which perhaps explains part of the nexpected grandeur for this unassuming village wine.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune, 1er Cru Chouacheux, Burgundy, 1995
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025The 1er Cru Chouacheux lies near the bottom of the slope, just below Vignes Franches, in the southern portion of Beaune, an area known for more muscular wines. This 1995 has developed marvelously, displaying clean mushroomy nuances.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton Les Pougets Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036Jadot’s Pinot Noir in the Corton Les Pougets climat (also the site for their Corton-Charlemagne) is planted high up on the slope and faces south, which likely explains its consistent ripeness. The 2018 is, like Jadot’s other 2018 Côte de Beaune bottlings, wonderfully fresh and lively, balancing its iron-tinged fleshiness.
Domaine Louis Jadot, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2002
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031 At nearly 20 years of age, Jadot’s fabulous 2002 Bonnes Mares is just starting to show a hint of maturity. It conveys the Chambolle plushness combined with a crushed stone mineral component. For all its depth and power, its finesse is what makes this wine memorable.Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune, 1er Cru Clos des Ursules, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2033Still owned by the Jadot family, (hence, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot), this 2.8 hectare walled plot included within the 1er cru Vignes Franches, is Jadot’s flagship Beaune bottling. The 2018, to my mind, is one of the best Clos des Ursules Jadot has ever made – it is explosive, delivering both power and finesse, buttressed by freshness.
Domaine Louis Jadot, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036Jadot’s 0.4 hectares of this prized site lies near the top of the slope and densely planted (10,000 vines/ha). The 2018 came in at 14 percent alcohol, reflecting a rare level of ripeness, but nonetheless, displays marvelous acidity, which keeps the wine full of energy.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Clos de la Croix de Pierre, Pernand-Vergelesses, 1er Cru En Caradeux, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026Jadot typically transforms Chardonnay from this east-facing parcel in the 1er cru En Caradeux climat into a readily accessible wine. The overt and forward 2018 fits that mould, delivering a ripe fruitiness buttressed by fresh minerality.
Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Le Clos Blanc, Beaune, 1er Cru Grèves, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2030Pierre-Henry Gagey’s grandfather planted Chardonnay in this vineyard about 70 years ago. Then, Pierre-Henry’s father purchased another 0.8 hectares, which they planted entirely to Chardonnay. One of few fine white wines from Beaune, Le Clos Blanc is always a generous wine.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2011
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026At a decade of age, this Jadot Corton-Charlemagne is a stunning surprise from this poorly-regarded vintage. Bright, fresh and long, it delivers distinct minerality, depth and an alluring hint of orange-rind spice. It’s a beautifully developed Corton-Charlemagne that is just hitting its stride and shows no signs of fading soon.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers, Les Demoiselles, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034Maison Louis Jadot owns half of this 1.05 hectare lieu-dit that lies on the northern end of the Chevalier-Montrachet climat (Maison Louis Latour owns the other half). Typically, it is stonier and firmer with less richness compared to Montrachet itself.
Domaine Louis Jadot, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrieres, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034Jadot’s parcel lies near the top of the Les Perrières Dessus lieu-dit, a cooler site, which explains, in part, why this wine has such brilliant acidity, and, as a consequence, incredible length. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier also notes that they blocked the malolactic fermentation, preserving the more prominent malic acid in the wine.
Simonnet-Febvre, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2018
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Simonnet-Febvre, a leading Chablis-based grower and négociant, sees plenty of potential for Irancy. They bottle this one as well as two from the lieux-dits of Paradis and Veaupessiot. The 2018 Irancy, a field blend of Pinot Noir and César, shows considerable depth despite a lower stated alcohol -13% -than expected for the hot 2018 vintage.
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “Triolet 2018
($40): 
A blend of Barbera (60%) and equal parts Malbec and Grenache, Triolet makes a fascinating contrast to Naumes’ straight Barbera. This wine delivers with more power with less focus. Unsurprisingly, given the inclusion of Malbec, it’s more muscular, with smokey nuances. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Barbera 2018
($35): 
Barbera, the workhorse grape of Piedmont, is a good “go-to” red wine for Italian food because of its racy acidity and energy. It’s great to see credible renditions appearing in this side of the Atlantic. Naumes’ 2018 Barbera, similar to its 2017, is far more than credible.… Read more
Sarah’s Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay 2018
($36): 
Though the winery was founded in 1978, it has slipped under my radar until now. I’m glad that’s changed. This restrained style of Chardonnay has plenty going on. It’s just not in-your-face. Indeed, its many charms appear after it sits in the glass for a half hour. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay DCV Block 10 2019
($32): 
Similar to Dry Creek Valley’s Sauvignon Blanc, their DCV Block 10 Chardonnay is a study in balance. They manage barrel fermentation and aging judiciously so that just a wisp of oak-scented creaminess comes through, harmonizing with the fruitiness of the grape without overpowering it. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2020
($17): 
Dry Creek vineyard draws on their nearly half-century experience in Dry Creek Valley to fashion beautifully balanced wines that speak rather than scream. This Sauvignon Blanc has a bit — but not too much — of the bite characteristic of the grape variety. … Read more
Vigna Petrussa, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2019
($30): 
The leadership of this family-owned winery is unique. Hilde Petrussa, the current director, is the third generation of female directors. This Friulano is equally unique. It has good weight, stone fruit character, all supported and balanced by excellent acidity. A ying and yang of a subtle creamy richness and hint of bitterness in the finish just makes it just that much more appealing.… Read more
Fattoria Varramista, Toscana IGP (Tuscany, Italy) “Frasca” 2015
($33): 
Fattoria Varramista, located halfway between Florene and Pisa, has about 20 acres of vineyards planted to Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. They expertly blend those grapes to make this glossy well-proportioned wine where none of its elements predominate. Fleshy, but not overly fruity, savory notes remain in this traditionally framed wine. … Read more
Fondo Antico, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Parlante” 2019
($19): 
Although only started in 2000, the family-run Fondo Antico, has a long connection with grapes as a grower for Marsala. They have about 200 acres of vineyards on the western side of the island where they grow both autochthonous varieties, such as Grillo, and so-called international grapes. … Read more
Tenute Soletta, Vermentino di Sardegna (Sardinia, Italy) “Sardo” 2019
($20): 
The brother and sister-run Tenute Soletta is a new estate by Italian standards, having been created in 1996. They use only their own grapes and focus on this Vermentino and a similarly delicious Cannonau. This Vermentino spends about seven months on the lees, which likely accounts, at least in part, for its richness. … Read more
Tenute Soletta, Cannonau di Sardegna (Sardinia, Italy) “Sardo” 2016
($24): 
This Cannonau (also known as Garnacha or Grenache), displays a dark, haunting profile with slightly funky, in a nice way, accents. Dark fruit flavors are apparent and balance the savory elements in this chewy wine. This is a weighty, but not heavy, wine perfect for a hearty meal on a winter day or to serve with robust fare from the grill.… Read more
Celli, Bertinaro Romagna DOC (Emilia Romagna) Sangiovese Riserva, “Bron & Rusèval” 2017
($28): 
Since Sangiovese, a grape associated with Tuscany, is the most widely planted grape in Italy, it is not surprising to find excellent wines made from it outside of that region. Here’s one such example from nearby Romagna, which Mauro Sirri, the owner of Celli, is quick to identify as distinct from Emilia: “They’re known for Lambrusco; we’re known for dry wines.” … Read more
David Paige Wines, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2018
($29): 
The cooler Oregon climate likely explains why most Chardonnays from there are typically more understated than most California renditions of Chardonnay. Finesse-filled and restrained, but certainly not lacking a presence, the 2018 David Paige Chardonnay fits that profile. A real plus is its below-$30 price tag, unusual for a Chardonnay of this stature. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2019
($30): 
This is the third consecutive year when Naumes Family Vineyard has hit the mark with Viognier, a notoriously difficult grape to tame. I could easily cut and paste my reviews of their 2017 and 2018 for this one. But, frankly, it is worth repeating because although balance is always key in wines, it is especially important with Viognier, whose window of ripeness is narrow. … Read more
Il Colle, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($20): 
Established in 1978, Il Colle remains a family-run estate that produces an array of Prosecco. This one shows the beauty of the DOCG, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, compared to a straight DOC Prosecco. It has a finesse and refinement that most DOC Prosecco just don’t deliver. … Read more
Isola Augusta, Trevenezie IGP (Veneto, Italy) Schioppettino 2019
($20): 
Founded in 1959 by Renzo Bassani, the third generation of the that environmentally-conscious family is now involved. They gradually expanded to about 125 acres of vineyards, which provide sufficient fruit for all their wines. Indeed, they sell some of their grapes to their neighbors. … Read more
CaselFarneto, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy) Verdicchio “Fontevecchia” 2017
($15, Enotec Imports): 
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is one of Italy’s great white wines that flies under most peoples’ radar. Italian wine regulators awarded the top category, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva, DOCG status, showing the potential of the region. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” (Grey Label) 2020
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Lunae Bosoni, one of Liguria’s top producers, consistently makes a stunning line up of Vermentino wines. The 2020 maintains that tradition. Riper than usual in this vintage, this nevertheless has very energetic acidity holds everything together. An intriguing and uplifting saline touch keeps you interested and invites another sip. … Read more
Masciarelli, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) Trebbiano “Marina Cvetic” Riserva 2018
($58, Vintus): 
Similar to its red counterpart, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo can be grown all over the province and varies in quality from insipid to inspiring. As you would expect from a top producer, Masciarelli’s fits the latter category. Why the vast difference? … Read more
Center of Effort, Edna Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay “Effort” 2017
($24): 
The name of the winery, Center of Effort, is a sailing term, which, to my non-nautical brain, means the wind hits the sail in exactly the right place. This well-price Chardonnay, which they call an introduction to their estate, hits all the right notes. … Read more
Center of Effort, Edna Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay “Center of Effort” 2015
($35): 
Nathan Carlson from Center of Effort insists that Edna Valley is ideally suited for Chardonnay. And indeed, Chardonnay is the most planted grape in the area, according to him. Judging from this five-year old wine, I agree that Edna Valley is an ideal place for this variety. … Read more
Sosie, Moon Mountain District (Sonoma County, California) Cavedale Vineyard Red Blend 2017
($45): 
Despite its 14.5 percent stated-alcohol, Sosie (pronounced so-zee) is fresh and lively, not overdone at all. Paradoxically, there’s almost a lovely austere character to it. Firm, not hard, tannins frame its racy red fruit flavors. Mineral-like notes — you can almost taste the volcanic soil — and a pleasing hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its allure. … Read more
Bodegas Torres, Catalunya DO (Spain) “Viña Sol” 2019
($11, Miguel Torres USA): 
Bodegas Torres, certainly one of the most important producers in Spain, produces this bargain-priced delightful racy white wine year after year. Full of energy and life, the 2019 is a blend of Parellada, an important component of Cava, and Garnacha Blanco. … Read more
Angelini, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2020
($12): 
Starting with the 2019 vintage, Prosecco Rosé is an official DOC. Initially, I suspected this category was a brilliant marketing maneuver combining two of the hottest wine categories today. However, producers have told me that Prosecco Rosé should be a premium product that will likely cost more. … Read more
Donnafugata, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2018
($24, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
The primary grape for Etna Bianco is Carricante, one that is unique to Sicily. Though people, rightly, associate red wine with Sicily, Carricante produces impressive and distinctive whites, especially when grown on the slopes of Mount Etna. … Read more
Miguel Torres, Central Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc “Las Mulas” Reserva 2019
($13, Miguel Torres USA): 
This Sauvignon Blanc, the white equivalent of Torres’ Las Mulas Cabernet, is, like the red counterpart, balanced. It delivers a pleasant bite characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc without shaking you by the lapels. Lively and fresh, it’s another excellent buy.… Read more
Miguel Torres, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Cordillera de los Andes” Reserva Especial 2017
($22, Miguel Torres USA): 
Miguel Torres has vineyards throughout Chile to match grapes with areas particularly well suited to them. The grapes for this one come from the Maipo Valley, an area renown for top Cabernet Sauvignon. Very aromatic, this Cabernet has good weight and delivers a mix of dark black fruit interspersed with spicy savory notes. … Read more
Miguel Torres, Curicó Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon, Old Vines “Manso de Velasco” 2013
($54, Miguel Torres USA): 
Named for Manso de Velasco, the Governor of Chile during colonial times and the founder of the city of Curicó, this Cabernet Sauvignon comes exclusively from 100-plus year-old vines grown on the estate of the same name. … Read more
Miguel Torres, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Las Mulas” Reserva 2019
($14, Miguel Torres USA): 
Miguel Torres, one of Spain’s leading producers, expanded to Chile in 1979, becoming the first foreign investment in that country’s wine industry, according to their website. Torres introduced the Las Mulas line — the wines are made entirely from organic grapes — in 2010. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2018
($38): 
Full disclosure: Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, which comprise 99 percent of the blend of this wine, are among my least favorite varieties because, when converted to wine, they often display power and little else. So, imagine my surprise when I discovered how well Dry Creek Vineyard manages them. … Read more