($19, Henriot): Tavel, a lovely village in the south of France, is one of the few places in the world that makes only rosé. Not a by-product of a process to beef-up a red wine, this serious rosé has more substance than most. … Read more
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Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Clifford Bay Reserve 2008
($32, Vineyard Brands): Although not from a single vineyard, this is one of Villa Maria’s upscale—and excellent—bottlings of Sauvignon Blanc. From a variety of vineyards in the Awatere region of Marlborough, this Sauvignon Blanc has the hallmark Marlborough grapefuit-like edginess and pungency, but with an unusual density, length and refinement. … Read more
Prieure de Montezargues, Tavel (France) 2007
($19, Henriot): Tavel, a lovely village in the south of France, is one of the few places in the world that makes only rosé. Not a by-product of a process to beef-up a red wine, this serious rosé has more substance than most. … Read more
Goats do Roam, Western Cape (South Africa) ‘White’ 2008
($10, Vineyard Brands): Although it’s Charles Back’s pun-laden labels that catch your attention, the wine in the bottle is what holds it. Hints—just hints—of apricot and peach-like flavors buttressed by good acidity makes this southern Rhone lookalike easy to recommend. Clean and fresh, without a trace of heaviness, it has surprising length, especially at the price.… Read more
Bouchard Finlayson, Walker Bay (South Africa) Chardonnay ‘Mission Vale’ 2006
($25, Leucadia Cellars and Estate): This Chardonnay is just another example of how South Africa is likely the most under appreciated country for fine wine. It walks the fine line between overt fruitiness and flavors characteristic of the New World and the restraint and tautness of white Burgundy. … Read more
Karl Lagler, Wachau (Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Burgberg” Federspeil 2007
($20, Domaine Select): What’s in the bottle is worth the time to unravel what’s on the bottle, so here goes: Wachau is easy because it’s Austria’s best wine growing area, just west of Vienna on the Danube, and Burgberg’s one of the villages there. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($11): Chateau Ste. Michelle nearly always gets it right. They certainly did with this well-priced balanced Sauvignon Blanc. It has just the right combination of herbaceous flavors and acidity. It has a enlivening pungency without being shrill or aggressive. It’s perfect for summertime sipping with steamed clams.… Read more
Torres, Catalunya (Spain) Rosé “Sangro de Toro de Casta” 2008
($10, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Torres is one of Spain’s best known producers because they produce such a consistently high-quality array of wines. Delicate red fruit notes marry with vibrant acidity in this refreshing rosé. Dry and lively, keep a bottle chilled in the refrigerator to banish the humidity of summer.… Read more
Marqués de Cáceres, Rioja (Spain) Blanco 2008
($9, Vineyard Brands): Although primarily a region for red wines, Rioja does serve up whites, usually from the Macabeo grape, locally known as Viura. White wine from Rioja in the past was dreadful–heavy and oxidized–but now is often clean, bright and invigorating, especially in Marqués de Cáceres hands. … Read more
2007: An Excellent Vintage for White Burgundies
White Burgundy fans should be very happy. The 2007 vintage produced a wide array–from Chablis to Mâcon–of excellent white wines. And the world-wide economic crisis means that prices are lower. That combination is a “perfect tranquility” for Burgundy lovers.
I reported my preliminary assessment of the vintage last fall and update it now for the whites since they are especially appealing and are starting to arrive on retailers’ shelves.… Read more
Fairview, Costal Region (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($13, Vineyard Brands): This South African rendition of Sauvignon Blanc falls somewhere in the middle of spectrum of styles that this grape can produce, falling between the laser-like edginess of one from New Zealand and the riper notes common to California. … Read more
Spice Route Winery, Coastal Region (South Africa) Viognier 2008
($23, Vineyard Brands): The team at Spice Route got it right with this Viognier, a grape that can be difficult to transform into a balanced wine. Floral notes reminiscent of honeysuckle grab your attention. On the palate, its fleshy texture and hints of peaches are balanced by solid acidity. … Read more
Bodegas Montecillo, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008
($13, Underdog Wine Merchants): Bodegas Montecillo, an excellent Rioja-based producer, is branching out. Like many established Spanish producers who are based outside of the Rias Baixas region on Spain’s northwest corner, Montecillo is jumping on the Albariño bandwagon with this wine they call Verdemar. … Read more
Taittinger, Champagne (France) Rosé “Prestige” NV
($75, Kobrand): I’m always skeptical when a producer labels a wine “prestige.” But this one deserves that moniker. It’s one of the best non-vintage Rosé Champagnes I have tasted in a long time. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it captures the power of the former and the elegance of the latter. … Read more
Alphonse Mellot, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Pouilly sur Loire, home to Pouilly-Fumé, sits just across the Loire River from Sancerre and, like that town, allows producers to use only Sauvignon Blanc for its wines. Despite the similar location and grape, Mellot’s Pouilly-Fumé’s stony, lean, laser-like edginess is very different from the chalky earthy notes found in his Sancerre (reviewed previously). … Read more
Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Rubicon” 2005
($28, Maisons Marques and Domaines): As good as Meerlust’s other wines are–and they are quite good–this one, their flagship, is delectable. The blend of the Bordeaux-style wine varies from vintage to vintage. The 2005 is roughly 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder split equally between Merlot and Cabernet Franc.… Read more
Meinert, Devon Valley (Stellenbosch, South Africa) “Synchronicity” 2004
($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Meinert puts Pinotage, the unique South African cross of Cinsault and Pinot Noir, to good use by adding a small–10%–of it in the this blend of equal parts Cabernet and Merlot. Pinotage by itself can be off-putting with its aroma that can sometimes smell like adhesive tape, but in this wine it adds a wonderfully exotic spice-like and component that supplements earthy notes and balances the lush fruitiness of the other varietals. … Read more
Are Stags Leap District Wines Unique?
Everyone seems to agree that the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley is unique because of its topography, climate and soil. The question remains whether that uniqueness translates into distinctive wines that reflect the site.
To test the theory, I spent two days in the Stags Leap District comparing the same vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon made from grapes grown in the Stags Leap District to those made from grapes grown in other California locales. … Read more
Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Demoiselles” 2008
($75, Boutique Wine Collection): Sancerre is a special place because Sauvignon Blanc planted here can have a unique flavor profile, unlike the taste of wines made from Sauvignon Blanc planted elsewhere. Sadly, these days as Sancerre has grown in popularity too many of its wines have lost their distinctiveness. … Read more
Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre Rosé (Loire Valley, France) “En Grands Champs” 2008
($27, Boutique Wine Collection): Most rosés are a by-product of the technique, saignée, used to bolster red wines. The distinctive rosés, such as this one, are the ones in which the producer sets out to make a rosé. And there is no better producer in Sancerre than Alphonse Mellot. … Read more
Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2007
($23, Maison Marques and Domaines): Meerlust, a family owned winery best known for their red wines, walks the line between the flamboyance of New World wine and the austerity and minerality of Burgundy with this captivating Chardonnay, the only white wine they produce. … Read more
Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Merlot 2005
($27, Maison Marques and Domaines): While many California wineries are releasing their 2006 and 2007 Merlot, this 2005 is Meerlust’s current offering. As a family owned winery, Meerlust can avoid the bean counters’ focus on quarterly returns and hold the wine until they think its ready for release. … Read more
How to cancel your Apple Music subscription on Mac
Apple Music was starting late taken off to a couple of countries over the world, with a 3-month free trial. Additionally, being a music spilling organization from Apple, various customers have been willing to give it a shot. Nevertheless, if you have to suspend your scratch off Cancel Apple Music Subscription enrollment for no good reason, you need to physically stop from the organization with a particular ultimate objective to balance getting approached the complete of the ideal opportunity for testing.… Read more
Château Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay “Indian Wells” 2007
($18): Château Ste. Michelle makes a superior range of well-priced wines. This one, made from a blend of grapes grown in a variety of vineyards, is a step up from their basic Columbia Valley Chardonnay. It combines subtle minerality with tropical fruit flavors and buttery nuances. … Read more
Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Petit Chenin” 2008
($9, Boutique Wine Collection): This wine is part of Ken Forrester’s Petit tier, the lowest of his three tiers of wine. By that ‘lowly’ stature shouldn’t deter you from buying it. Fruity without being sweet, it is lively and fresh and has surprising length, especially given its price. … Read more
Cape Point Vineyards, Cape Point (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Stonehaven” 2007
($23, Boutique Wine Collection): This is the only winery located in the Cape Point, a district south of Cape Town on a peninsula that separates the Atlantic Ocean from False Bay. But after sampling this wine, I expect to see more. … Read more
Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Shiraz Grenache 2005
($20, Boutique Wine Collection): Forrester says his Grenache vineyard, almost 50 years old, is the only one in Stellenbosch because the remaining ones were pulled up during apartheid by the government-run wine monopoly. That seems very unfortunate, judging from this wine, which manages to combine fresh fruit with slightly spiced gamey elements into a harmonious package. … Read more
American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): Do They Make Sense?
Americans have never been particularly adept at geography. Since most would fail to locate Kansas on an unlabeled map of the United States, how would they fare with finding Chambolle-Musigny? This is why the American practice of naming wines by grape name is so successful for marketing
However, winemakers everywhere–from California to France–insist that wine is ‘made in the vineyard,’ and that location matters.… Read more
Domaine de la Barroch, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Pure” 2006
($94, The Sorting Table): You have to search the bottle to know this wine is from Châteauneuf-du-Pape because that information is hidden on the back label. The front label–pure white–has just the word Pure on it. Fortunately, the contents of the bottle upstage the edgy labeling. … Read more
Drylands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Dry Riesling 2007
($16, Franciscan Estate): The Marlborough region of New Zealand is best known for Sauvignon Blanc. Based on this stellar Riesling, it should be known for that varietal as well. It has an uncommon combination of delicate fruitiness–without sweetness–and an earthy minerality. … Read more
Vavasour, Awatere Valley (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($15, Pasternak Wine Imports): The Awatere Valley, like the Wairau Valley to its north, is a subzone of the Marlborough region on the northern tip of New Zealand’s South Island and is home to some of that country’s most distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Kennedy Point, Waiheke Island (New Zealand) Syrah 2007
($25, Atlantic Imports): Waiheke Island, located in Auckland harbor on New Zealand’s North Island, has long been known as a prime site for Bordeaux varietals. Kennedy Point Vineyard, established just in 1996, also planted Syrah and judging from this wine, it was a great choice. … Read more
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim 2006
($40, The Sorting Table): People either love or hate Gewurztraminer because of its overt flamboyant profile and an unpredictability regarding its level of sweetness. This is one Gewurztraminer that is hard not to love. Explosive as expected, flavors of spiced pears and lychee nuts pour forth. … Read more
Chateau St. Jean, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Belle Terre Vineyard 2006
($25): Certainly compared to the Robert Young Chardonnay (reviewed this week and previously), this is a full-blown–yet not ‘over the top’–Chardonnay. A buttery, toasty quality seems to magnify the ripe tropical fruit flavors. Adequate citric-like acidity holds it all together and despite the richness and power, it’s not over done. … Read more
Neil Ellis, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2007
($17, Vineyard Brands): Ellis, one of South Africa’s leading producers, makes two Chardonnays, one from grapes grown in Stellenbosch and this one, from Elgin, South Africa’s coolest viticultural area. The cool climate is expressed by a dazzling freshness and vigor that enhances and amplifies its underlying toasty creaminess. … Read more
Niepoort, Douro Valley (Portugal) “Redoma Branco” 2006
($33, Martine’s Wines): The Douro River in Portugal is world famous for producing Port. It is rapidly becoming known for red table wine as well, largely due to the efforts of Dirk Niepoort and the other ‘Douro Boys,’ as this group of young winemakers is known. … Read more
Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2006
($30, Bluewater Wine Company): Wines from Western Australia, including their Chardonnays, do not fit the conventional mold for Australian wines. The Chardonnays in general, like this one, are leaner–yet still flavor packed–and racier compared to their South Australian counterparts. Howard Park, one of Western Australia’s top producers, has fashioned this wine with an almost Riesling-like vibrancy that complements the green appley flavors.… Read more
Drylands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($15, Franciscan Estate Selections): Although the piercing–almost electrifying-acidic signature of Marlborough speaks loudly and clearly in this wine, there is more going on. There’s a welcome depth and weight that gives it substance and texture that balances its engaging pungency. It’s a versatile wine for anything from spicy Asian fare to unadorned seafood.… Read more
Economic squeeze hitting Bordeaux wines
“This could be the crash of the century instead of the vintage of the century,” quipped Coco Conroy of Château Brane-Cantenac, a second-growth property in Margaux, as she jokingly referred to Bordeaux’s 2008 vintage.
Like other blue chips, Bordeaux, the bluest of blue chips in the world’s wine market, is not immune to this economic downturn.… Read more
Clos La Chance, Central Coast (California) Estate Vineyard “Lila’s Cuvée” 2006
($40): Named after the granddaughter of Clos La Chance owners Bill and Brenda Murphy, this unusual blend–Grenache (40%), Syrah (20%), Carignan and Alicante Bouchet (15% each), Cinsault and Petite Syrah (5% each)–actually works to produce a wine with depth and complexity. … Read more
Robert Mondavi, California (United States) Meritage “Private Selection” 2006
($11): Those who complain that California cannot produce a lovely inexpensive wine need to try this bargain priced beauty. A Bordeaux blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), it has far more complexity–not just a gooey fruit bomb–and class than its price tag predicts. … Read more
Age Matters
Everyone refers to “old vines” reverentially. The precise definition of ‘old’ varies enormously–legitimately depending on the varietal (Zinfandel and Pinot Noir do not have the same lifespan)–and more subjectively depending on whether you are speaking to a winemaker/viticulturist or someone in the marketing department.… Read more
Raats, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Franc 2006
($30, Cape Classics): Bruwer Raats and his brother, Jasper, founded the winery only in 2001 and have already made themselves a fine reputation. They specialize in only two wines, Chenin Blanc and this Cabernet Franc, a varietal that is not planted widely in South Africa. … Read more
Rudi Schultz, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah 2004
($30, Cape Classics): Rudi Schultz is best known as the talented winemaker at Thelema, a producer known for their stellar Cabernet Sauvignon. He also makes a small amount of wine–this excellent Syrah–under his own name. It’s a marvelous combination of both the ripe, plummy side of Syrah as well as the peppery notes that it can show. … Read more
Palliser Estate, Martinborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2006
($27, Negociants USA): Just as Marlborough on New Zealand’s South Island has a reputation for great Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, located on the southern tip of the North Island, is a leading locale for Pinot Noir. Palliser manages the all too often elusive combination of earthiness with both dried and fresh fruit flavors.… Read more
Maison Nicolas Potel, Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2007
($157, Frederick Wildman): In Burgundy, it’s rare to have a consistently great vintage for reds, such as 2005, or a poor one, such as 1992. In most years, there’s lots of variability. There were even duds in 2005 and some excellent 1992 reds. … Read more
Matua Valley, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($13, Fosters Wine Estates): It’s ironic that New Zealand’s signature wine, Sauvignon Blanc, usually associated with the Marlborough region on the South Island, was actually introduced into the country by Matua Valley Winery on the North Island in the 1970s. Matua has subsequently purchased vineyards in Marlborough and makes a terrific Sauvignon Blanc from grapes grown there. … Read more
Allan Scott Family Winemakers, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($15, Uniqco Inc.): Now that Allan Scott’s son, Joshua, has joined him in the business, they’ve added Family to the label. The wines continue to deliver great enjoyment. In addition to the expected zip and bite associated with Sauvignon Blanc grown in Marlborough, this wine delivers a subtle creaminess and has a mouth-filling texture. … Read more
Domaine de Triennes, Vin de Pays du Var (Provence, France) Rosé 2008
($16, The Sorting Table): Readers of this website know that I am not a fan of rosé (except for Rosé Champagne, of course) because it’s usually a byproduct of a technique-bleeding–to strengthen a red wine. Less commonly, some producers–such as those in Tavel in southern France–actually aim to produce rosé. … Read more
Sherry: The World’s Most Under-Appreciated Wine
After an experience at one of Barcelona’s best tapas bars (Irati, just off the Ramblas), I have a better perspective on Americans’ failure to embrace Sherry, Spain’s best-known wine. To accompany the gorgeous array of crustaceans in front of me, I ordered Manzanilla, a type of Fino Sherry particularly well suited to seafood.… Read more