($40, The Sorting Table): People either love or hate Gewurztraminer because of its overt flamboyant profile and an unpredictability regarding its level of sweetness. This is one Gewurztraminer that is hard not to love. Explosive as expected, flavors of spiced pears and lychee nuts pour forth. … Read more
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Chateau St. Jean, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Belle Terre Vineyard 2006
($25): Certainly compared to the Robert Young Chardonnay (reviewed this week and previously), this is a full-blown–yet not ‘over the top’–Chardonnay. A buttery, toasty quality seems to magnify the ripe tropical fruit flavors. Adequate citric-like acidity holds it all together and despite the richness and power, it’s not over done. … Read more
Neil Ellis, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2007
($17, Vineyard Brands): Ellis, one of South Africa’s leading producers, makes two 
Chardonnays, one from grapes grown in Stellenbosch and this one, from Elgin, South Africa’s coolest viticultural area. The cool climate is expressed by a dazzling freshness and vigor that enhances and amplifies its underlying toasty creaminess. … Read more
Niepoort, Douro Valley (Portugal) “Redoma Branco” 2006
($33, Martine’s Wines): The Douro River in Portugal is world famous for producing Port. It is rapidly becoming known for red table wine as well, largely due to the efforts of Dirk Niepoort and the other ‘Douro Boys,’ as this group of young winemakers is known. … Read more
Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2006
($30, Bluewater Wine Company): Wines from Western Australia, including their Chardonnays, do not fit the conventional mold for Australian wines. The Chardonnays in general, like this one, are leaner–yet still flavor packed–and racier compared to their South Australian counterparts. Howard Park, one of Western Australia’s top producers, has fashioned this wine with an almost Riesling-like vibrancy that complements the green appley flavors.… Read more
Drylands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($15, Franciscan Estate Selections): Although the piercing–almost electrifying-acidic signature of Marlborough speaks loudly and clearly in this wine, there is more going on. There’s a welcome depth and weight that gives it substance and texture that balances its engaging pungency. It’s a versatile wine for anything from spicy Asian fare to unadorned seafood.… Read more
Economic squeeze hitting Bordeaux wines
“This could be the crash of the century instead of the vintage of the century,” quipped Coco Conroy of Château Brane-Cantenac, a second-growth property in Margaux, as she jokingly referred to Bordeaux’s 2008 vintage.
Like other blue chips, Bordeaux, the bluest of blue chips in the world’s wine market, is not immune to this economic downturn.… Read more
Clos La Chance, Central Coast (California) Estate Vineyard “Lila’s Cuvée” 2006
($40): Named after the granddaughter of Clos La Chance owners Bill and Brenda Murphy, this unusual blend–Grenache (40%), Syrah (20%), Carignan and Alicante Bouchet (15% each), Cinsault and Petite Syrah (5% each)–actually works to produce a wine with depth and complexity. … Read more
Robert Mondavi, California (United States) Meritage “Private Selection” 2006
($11): Those who complain that California cannot produce a lovely inexpensive wine need to try this bargain priced beauty. A Bordeaux blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), it has far more complexity–not just a gooey fruit bomb–and class than its price tag predicts. … Read more
Age Matters
Everyone refers to “old vines” reverentially. The precise definition of ‘old’ varies enormously–legitimately depending on the varietal (Zinfandel and Pinot Noir do not have the same lifespan)–and more subjectively depending on whether you are speaking to a winemaker/viticulturist or someone in the marketing department.… Read more
Raats, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Franc 2006
($30, Cape Classics): Bruwer Raats and his brother, Jasper, founded the winery only in 2001 and have already made themselves a fine reputation. They specialize in only two wines, Chenin Blanc and this Cabernet Franc, a varietal that is not planted widely in South Africa. … Read more
Rudi Schultz, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Syrah 2004
($30, Cape Classics): Rudi Schultz is best known as the talented winemaker at Thelema, a producer known for their stellar Cabernet Sauvignon. He also makes a small amount of wine–this excellent Syrah–under his own name. It’s a marvelous combination of both the ripe, plummy side of Syrah as well as the peppery notes that it can show. … Read more
Palliser Estate, Martinborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2006
($27, Negociants USA): Just as Marlborough on New Zealand’s South Island has a reputation for great Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, located on the southern tip of the North Island, is a leading locale for Pinot Noir. Palliser manages the all too often elusive combination of earthiness with both dried and fresh fruit flavors.… Read more
Maison Nicolas Potel, Échézeaux (Burgundy, France) 2007
($157, Frederick Wildman): 
In Burgundy, it’s rare to have a consistently great vintage for reds, such as 2005, or a poor one, such as 1992. In most years, there’s lots of variability. There were even duds in 2005 and some excellent 1992 reds. … Read more
Matua Valley, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($13, Fosters Wine Estates): 
It’s ironic that New Zealand’s signature wine, Sauvignon Blanc, usually associated with the Marlborough region on the South Island, was actually introduced into the country by Matua Valley Winery on the North Island in the 1970s. Matua has subsequently purchased vineyards in Marlborough and makes a terrific Sauvignon Blanc from grapes grown there. … Read more
Allan Scott Family Winemakers, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($15, Uniqco Inc.): Now that Allan Scott’s son, Joshua, has joined him in the business, they’ve added Family to the label. The wines continue to deliver great enjoyment. In addition to the expected zip and bite associated with Sauvignon Blanc grown in Marlborough, this wine delivers a subtle creaminess and has a mouth-filling texture. … Read more
Domaine de Triennes, Vin de Pays du Var (Provence, France) Rosé 2008
($16, The Sorting Table): Readers of this website know that I am not a fan of rosé (except for Rosé Champagne, of course) because it’s usually a byproduct of a technique-bleeding–to strengthen a red wine. Less commonly, some producers–such as those in Tavel in southern France–actually aim to produce rosé. … Read more
Sherry: The World’s Most Under-Appreciated Wine
After an experience at one of Barcelona’s best tapas bars (Irati, just off the Ramblas), I have a better perspective on Americans’ failure to embrace Sherry, Spain’s best-known wine. To accompany the gorgeous array of crustaceans in front of me, I ordered Manzanilla, a type of Fino Sherry particularly well suited to seafood.… Read more
Dry River, Marlborough (New Zealand) Riesling Craig Hall Vineyard 2008
($45, RO Imports): Wines like this one will help New Zealand shed its image of just producing superb Sauvignon Blanc. This dry and lively Riesling has the edgy tension between fruit and acid that keeps you coming back for another sip. … Read more
Georges Descombes, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2006
($30): I know, 30 bucks for Beaujolais is a lot of money. But, this is not your father’s grapey rendition. Louis Dressner manages to find Beaujolais producers who make distinctive wines. Those of you skeptical of the genre–that includes Michael Franz, my colleague and editor at WRO–really ought to try wines like this one. … Read more
Clos Rougeard, Saumur-Champigny (Loire Valley, France) Les Poyeux 2004
($81, Louis Dressner Selections): This superb wine will quash any doubts that Cabernet Franc is a noble and great grape. Although there is no official classification of Saumur-Champigny vineyards, Les Poyeux, a single vineyard, is considered one of the area’s best. … Read more
Clos de Bois, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Merlot 2005
($20): The aromatics accurately predict pleasure. Supple, without being soft, this ripe and succulent Merlot is a winner. It has surprising complexity for a $20 wine, showing nuances of wet earth, herbal notes, and a touch of chocolate. The impeccable balance betrays the 14.5% stated alcohol.… Read more
Niepoort, Douro (Portugal) “Redoma” 2004
($40, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): Niepoort, a well-respected Port producer, is making stylish dry non fortified wines from grapes grown in Port’s home, the Douro Valley. A bigger, more muscular wine than Twisted, another of theirs from the region (previously reviewed), Redoma has a denser style and is packed with rich black fruit flavors and firm tannins. … Read more
Abruzzo, The New Tuscany, Part II
Although I’ve said it before, it’s worth repeating: wines from Abruzzo deliver more bang for the buck than you’d expect. The region is starting to realize its enormous potential for making high-quality, well-priced wines. Part one of this two-part series was an overview of the region.… Read more
Nine Stones, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2007
($13, Vineyard Brands): 
The rich, almost chewy, full bodied wine has a softness with supple tannins which makes it easy to drink now. Bold, but not particularly brawny, this Shiraz emphasizes straightforward plummy black fruit flavors rather than the peppery side often characteristic of that varietal. … Read more
Stuhlmuller Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($36): This satisfying Cabernet delivers spicy and herbal elements that balance the lush, almost sweet, black cherry-like flavors. Ripe, but not over the top, the wine is balanced structurally by mild, finely polished, tannins that keep it in check. It’s a good choice for current consumption.… Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Grancey” 2006
($120, Louis Latour Inc.): Corton, the only grand cru vineyard for red wine in the Cote de Beaune, is large and produces wines of variable quality. Latour, the largest owner of the vineyard, makes one of the best. Corton Grancey, a proprietary–not a plot–name, is a blend of wine from Latour’s best grand cru plots within the Corton vineyard. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Meritage Red Wine 2005
($45): This wine, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Bordeaux blend, is a more concentrated and muscular version of their excellent Indian Wells Cabernet (reviewed previously). It has the same alluring combination of minerality and black fruit flavors with more power and a firmer tannic backbone, suggestive of mountain grown fruit. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot “Indian Wells” 2005
($17): This wine should dissuade any doubters that the Merlot grape can produce complex, deep wines with structure. Denser and riper than Chateau Ste. Michelle’s very good regular 2005 bottling (previously reviewed), the Indian Wells Merlot has more of everything, but is less revealing at this stage. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) “Tavola” 2007
($25): Ponzi has a well-deserved reputation for making excellent wines. This is what producers call an ‘entry level’ wine. Similar to a second label, it is made from younger vines and a selection of wines that are lighter and more forward or ready to drink. … Read more
Neil Ellis Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz “Sincerely” 2007
($14, Vineyard Brands): Although this Shiraz emphasizes the plummy flavors of the grape, subtle notes of black pepper come through in the background adding welcome complexity. Adequate acidity in this ripe and forward wine keeps it from being jammy. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 24, 2009… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005
($17): A blend of Merlot (83%), Syrah (14%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is easy to recommend. The Syrah adds dark fruit character and a roasted quality, while even the seemingly trivial amount of Cabernet lends extra structure and support. Despite the presence of those two varietals, the inherent lovely leafy or herbal qualities characteristic of Merlot are apparent. … Read more
Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards, Columbia Valley (Washington) Red Wine “Tradition” 2003
($40): It’s rare for a domestic winery to hold a wine back for 5 years–although it may become more common (unintentionally) with the current economic conditions. It’s a great opportunity for consumers to see for themselves how bottle age can transform and enhance a wine. … Read more
Niepoort, Douro (Portugal) “Twisted” 2006
($20, Martine’s): Judging from this wine, Niepoort is a producer to watch. Douro, the home of Port, is also becoming an excellent site for dry–mostly red–table wines. In the past, many red table wines from the region were heavy and a little clumsy. … Read more
Col Solare, Columbia Valley (Washington) Red Wine 2005
($75): Col Solare is a Cabernet Sauvignon based joint venture between the Tuscan producer, Antinori, and Washington State’s Chateau Ste. Michelle. The 2005, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (71%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc, is a gorgeous wine. It’s an impeccably balanced seamless mixture of ripe black fruit and minerality supported by fine tannins and a perfect kick of black cherry acidity. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Colchagua Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Indian Wells” 2005
($17): This well-proportioned beautifully balanced Cabernet is a fabulous buy. In addition to its succulent black fruit flavors, herbal, almost tobacco, notes delight the senses. Not overly fruity or heavy, these non-fruit flavors persist into the long finish. Supple fine tannins add to the polish and elegance of the wine.… Read more
Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Tardive” 2007
($30, Louis Dressner Selections): The Clos de la Roilette is a beautifully located 22-acre vineyard in Fleurie, one of the ten crus (named villages) of Beaujolais, adjacent to Moulin-a-Vent. This, the Cuvée Tardive–not to be confused with a vendange tardive, which would indicate a sweet wine–is a selection from old vines and typically needs more aging time. … Read more
Abruzzo on the Rise
If you are looking for wines that deliver more than their price suggests (and who isn’t during these economic times?), it pays to learn about Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, an intense red wine that stands up to the flavorful, chili-laden Abruzzi cuisine.
These wines often have a rustic side, which can be appealing, but when not controlled can impart wild ‘horsey’ flavors. … Read more
Goats do Roam, Coastal Region (South Africa) White 2007
($10): Charles Back continues to turn out well-priced solid wines with more character than the price suggests. This lively Rhône-like blend conveys hints of stone fruits buttressed by vibrant acidity. It’s simple and direct, but beautifully balanced with vivacity that keeps it interesting throughout a meal.… Read more
Arboleda, Aconcagua Valley (Chile) Shiraz 2006
($19, Frederick Wildman): Eduardo Chadwick, one of Chile’s top winemakers and owner of Arboleda, has always been a vigorous proponent of Shiraz, especially when grown in the Aconcagua Valley, a locale about 100 miles north of Santiago. This wine justifies his enthusiasm. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($9, Vineyard Brands): This vibrant, pleasantly pungent Sauvignon Blanc is a terrific value. Simple and direct, it delivers a clear–but not aggressive–herbaceous bite characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc. If there’s a more enjoyable $9 Sauvignon Blanc on the market, I’ve yet to find it.… Read more
Spice Route, Swartland (South Africa) Viognier 2007
($18, Vineyard Brands): Viognier can be a tough grape to vinify because its characteristic aromatics and flavors don’t emerge unless the grape is quite ripe, which can translate into a high and intrusive level of alcohol. This Spice Route rendition pulls it off nicely, with alluring hints of peaches and honeysuckle without heaviness or the burn of alcohol. … Read more
Finca Decero, Agrelo (Mendoza, Argentina) “Amano” 2006
($50, Vintus): The 2006 vintage was the first release for Finca Decero and it’s either beginner’s luck or great talent. After tasting their fabulous 2006 Cabernet (reviewed previously) and with Paul Hobbs as consultant, I suspect it’s the latter. This, their flagship wine, is a blend of primarily Malbec (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Petit Verdot and is a selection of their best barrels. … Read more
Clos Rougeard, Saumur-Champigny (Loire Valley, France) “Le Bourd” 2004
($112, Louis Dressner Selections): You read the price correctly. More than $100 a bottle for–of all things–a wine made from Cabernet Franc grown in Saumur-Champigny, not exactly France’s most famous viticultural area. But what an outstanding wine! Clos Rougeard is considered by most locals to be the area’s best producer. … Read more
Henry Fessy, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2007
($13, Louis Latour Inc.): The venerable Burgundy négociant, Maison Louis Latour, has just purchased this well-known Beaujolais producer. Although we can expect a bump up in quality as Latour takes control, this 2007 Fleurie, from one of the 10 named villages in Beaujolais, is already an engaging wine. … Read more
Tir Na N’Og, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache Old Vines 2006
($32, Australian Premium Wine Collection): The tongue twisting name–‘land of youth’ in the aboriginal language–
should not prevent you for buying this wine. Not for the faint of heart, this wine’s ripe strawberry-like fruit flavor and its heady effect make a paradoxical combination that actually works with robust wintertime fare. … Read more
Oops, Central Valley (Chile) Carmenère 2007
($11, Schwartz Olcott Imports): The name remains annoying and the label remains incomprehensible at its attempt to be cute, but this Carmenère continues to improve with each successive vintage and offers terrific value. A bit of spice and herbal notes complement some dark berry-like fruit flavors. … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Private Bin” 2008
($18, Vineyard Brands): The pleasant bite of lime-like flavors and the accompanying zesty pungency screams Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The freshness and cutting aspect of this consistent crowd-pleaser is hard to beat, especially with simple seafood or Asian cuisine. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 27, 2009… Read more
Capel Vale, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2007
($22, Vintage New World): Looking for an excellent $20 Chardonnay? Look no further. If your image of Australian Chardonnay is that of an oaky blockbuster, this wine will change your perception. The Margaret River area of Western Australia has the potential to produce some of Australia’s most elegant wines and this one’s a good example.… Read more
Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Western Australia) Shiraz 2007
($22, Vintage New World): 
Wines from Peter Pratten’s Capel Vale property consistently fulfill the potential of Western Australia. Pratten, a radiologist by training before entering the wine business, has spent his medical career crisscrossing Western Australia, and as a dividend developed a clear knowledge of what varieties grow best in each locale.… Read more