($86): 
Though not the current release, Mastrojanni’s 2011 single vineyard, Loreto, is still available on the retail market and those who want to know why Brunello is such a revered wine should try it. The only problem with the 2011 vintage in Brunello is that it followed 2010, a great one. … Read more
All posts by admin
Château Yvonne, Saumur Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2017
($52, Oz Wine Company): 
Most of the wine made from Chenin Blanc, the primary white grape in Saumur, went into sparkling wine or non-distinguished still wine. That has changed over the last couple of decades, with talented and focused producers, such as Château Yvonne, and others. … Read more
Domaine Guiberteau, Saumur Blanc (Loire Valley, France) Clos de Guichaux 2016
($41, Becky Wasserman & Co.): 
Domaine Guiberteau is one of Saumur’s top producers. As much as I hate to say it because it diminishes my role as a critic, I will: It’s hard to go wrong just picking their wines blindly. … Read more
An Amber Standout from Georgia
Mosmieri (Kakheti, Georgia) “Kakhuri” 2017 ($20, Corus Imports): Georgian wines seem to be the rage these days, and there are plenty of possible reasons for that. Consumers are intrigued that archeologists have figured out that wine has been made in that Caucasus-region country for 8,000 years, putting it among the oldest wine producing areas in the world. … Read more
Paumanok Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Chenin Blanc 2018
($25): 
Under the leadership of winemaker Kareem Massoud and his father Charles, before for him, Paumanok Vineyards has made consistently stunning dry Chenin Blanc. The emphasis is on dry, because consumers often avoid Chenin Blanc because they can’t predict what’s in the bottle since the grapes can make a diverse range of wines from dry to gloriously sweet. … Read more
Comm. G.B. Burlotto, Verduno Pelaverga DOC (Piedmont, Italy) 2017
($25, Vineyard Brands): 
A historic estate founded in the mid-18th century by Giovan Battista Burlotto, Comm. G. B. Burlotto remains one of Piedmont’s top and most reliable producers. (The Comm. stands for il Commandatore.) The grape is Pelaverga Piccolo (a.k.a. Pelaverga di Verduno) because it is almost exclusive to the commune of Verduno, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014).… Read more
Foradori, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy) Manzoni Bianco “Fontanasanta” 2017
($38, Louis Dressner Selections): 
Manzoni Bianco is one of Italy’s botanical “crosses,” in this case a cross of Riesling and Chardonnay, made by Luigi Manzoni in the 1920s and 30s, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014). … Read more
Moser, Trento DOC (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy) “51,151″ Brut NV
($23, Divino International Wine and Spirit): 
The name of the wine, “51,151”, refers to a cycling record that Francesco Moser set in Mexico City in 1984, according to their website. This 100 percent Chardonnay base bubbly is, indeed, racy (pun intended), but the elegance imparted by that grape shows, making for a lovely balance. … Read more
Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, Pignoletto Spumante DOC (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) “1502″ 2018
($20): 
Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, a large Tuscan-based cooperative, makes this delightful sparkling wine from the Pignoletto grape, not one that is widely known outside of central Italy. Its inherently high acidity makes it a good choice for bubbly because growers can let it ripen, allowing its exuberant floral and fruity character to shine, without it becoming sappy or flabby. … Read more
William Fevre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2018
($25, Maison Marques et Domaines): 
Saint-Bris, formerly known as Sauvignon de Saint Bris before it was elevated to appellation d’origine controllée (AOC) status, is curious and unique in Burgundy. Located in the far north, near Chablis and covering a mere 200 acres, it requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay, for its wines. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Côteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir “Les Pierres Dorées” 2017
($26, Louis Latour, USA): 
Côteaux Bourguignons is a relatively new appellation, replacing Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, an appellation I’ve never seen in the U.S., perhaps because a “grand ordinary” wine is hard to sell. Grapes for this appellation can come from anywhere in Burgundy, from Beaujolais in the south to Irancy in the north. … Read more
Saumur: Home to Fabulous Dry Chenin Blanc
The Chenin Blanc grape can be transformed into fabulous wine. It makes sensationally riveting dry wines and lusciously sweet ones. In this column, I want to focus on the dry ones. They are exceptionally versatile, equally well suited to stand-alone as an aperitif or with a meal, especially with those foods that can pose a challenge for matching with wine, such as sushi, spicy Asian fare or roast pork. … Read more
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Brut NV
($24): 
Although I’ve not sampled every sparkling wine from California, Roederer Estate’s is my favorite. Part of the reason their wines are so good is, of course, the talent of Roederer, the French Champagne producer that owns it. But another important reason for their quality is that all of the grapes for their sparkling wines come from their vineyards, which means they have total control over the entire process from vineyard to winemaking to aging. … Read more
Jean Milan, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV
($42): 
It’s unusual to see non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne in which all the grapes come from villages classified as Grand Cru and especially at this price. Though quite intense, the elegance of Chardonnay comes through. The spine of acidity keeps it fresh. … Read more
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Champagne (France) 1er Cru, Brut, Blanc de Blancs “Cuvée Cuis” NV
($55, Terry Thiese Estate Selection): 
Blanc de Blancs (literally, white from whites) has no legal meaning except in Champagne where it means that only Chardonnay, a white grape, can be used. The expectation, which is fulfilled dramatically with this wine, is a Champagne of purity and elegance. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2017
($20): 
Simonnet-Febvre, another superb Chablis producer, crafts a consistently balanced Saint-Bris. The initial whiff screams Sauvignon Blanc, but amazingly, within minutes, aromas and then flavors of wet stone appear. Clean and cutting, this edgy wine displays plenty of depth. Where are the steamed clams?… Read more
Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils, Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy, France) 2017
($33): Based in Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils, a family-owned and run domaine, is one of Burgundy’s stars for white wines. No question, their Bâtard-and Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet are stunning, albeit at triple digit prices. They put the same care that goes into those 
Grand Crus into their Bourgogne Aligoté. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Irancy (Burgundy, France) 2015
($20): 
Irancy, a small red wine appellation in northern Burgundy, near Chablis, is a name to remember. Its northern locale has meant lean and angular wines in the past because Pinot Noir was tough to ripen. But climate change in general and the wonderfully warm 2015 vintage means it’s time to take another look at this under-the-radar area. … Read more
Lingua Franca, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Avni” 2016
($39): 
Lingua Franca is one of ever-increasing numbers of Oregon wineries that have a French connection. In this case, Larry Stone, Master Sommelier and wine consultant, purchased a vineyard in 2012 in the Eola-Amity Hills section of the Willamette Valley, originally planning to sell the grapes. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2015
($45): 
The Drouhin family, one of Burgundy’s star producers, made history when they bought land in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and started Domaine Drouhin Oregon there in 1987. Over three decades later, they remain one of Oregon’s — and America’s — leading producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. … Read more
Dusky Goose, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($65): 
John and Linda Carter, both successful in their respective careers — he in business and she in music — had the good sense to hired Lynn Penner-Ash to make their wine. She was the one who put the Rex Hill Vineyards’ Pinot Noir on the map in the late 1980s and 1990s before establishing Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Touraine, Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2017
($25): 
Though the vast majority (>95%) of wine from Chinon is red and made from Cabernet Franc, noteworthy and distinctive whites made from Chenin Blanc also carry that appellation. This is one of them. Couly-Dutheil is one of the top Chinon producers, making a bevy of easy-to-recommend reds year after year, so it should come as no surprise that they can make this stellar white wine. … Read more
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2015
($40): 
Comte Lafon, one of Burgundy’s most talented and best producers, is known especially for his white wines from Meursault, which usually sell for triple digits upon release. Here’s a chance to get an insight into his talents with this one from Saint-Véran, appellation bordering Pouilly-Fuissé in the Mâconnais part of Burgundy. … Read more
Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Roserock 2016
($31): 
The Drouhin family, the famed Burgundy producer, is doing what comes naturally to Burgundy producers, focusing on the uniqueness of vineyards. They’ve purchased an additional vineyard in another part of the Willamette Valley and are making distinctive wines there that are different from the ones they produce in the Dundee Hills, showing that terroir is alive and well in Oregon. … Read more
Lingua Franca, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Avni” 2016
($39): Lingua Franca is one of ever-increasing numbers of Oregon wineries that have a French connection. In this case, Larry Stone, Master Sommelier and wine consultant, purchased a vineyard in 2012 in the Eola-Amity Hills section of the Willamette Valley, originally planning to sell the grapes. … Read more
Maysara, McMinnville, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Jamsheed” 2012
($33): 
The Momtazi family is not in a rush. In 1997, they purchased close to 500 acres — an abandoned wheat farm that had been free from chemical fertilizer since the beginning of that decade — and finally starting planting them in earnest two years later. … Read more
Maysara, McMinnville, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Asha” 2012
($50): 
Maysara’s Asha Pinot Noir comes from the same vineyard as the Jamsheed, but since the vineyard is large with multiple soils and numerous clones of Pinot Noir, they have the ability to create different blends. As enthralled as I was with the Jamsheed, this one is more spell-binding. … Read more
Brittan Vineyards, McMinnville, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Gestalt Block 2015
($60): 
Founded barely 15 years ago, in 2004, by Robert and Ellen Brittan, Brittan Vineyards is a name to remember. Robert, who was the winemaker and estate manager at Stags’ Leap Winery for 16 years, must be a fast learner because that winery didn’t make Pinot Noir, or if they did, it was not a focus of their production. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2015
($45): The Drouhin family, one of Burgundy’s star producers, made history when they bought land in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and started Domaine Drouhin Oregon there in 1987. Over three decades later, they remain one of Oregon’s — and America’s — leading producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. … Read more
Dusky Goose, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($65): John and Linda Carter, both successful in their respective careers — he in business and she in music — had the good sense to hired Lynn Penner-Ash to make their wine. She was the one who put the Rex Hill Vineyards’ Pinot Noir on the map in the late 1980s and 1990s before establishing Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. … Read more
Domaine Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2016
($44, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Ferret has always been one of the top names in Pouilly-Fuissé, being one of the first to move from bulk to bottled wine after World War II to ensure quality. Since being acquired by Beaune-based Maison Louis Jadot in 2008, Ferret’s wines have reached new heights, no doubt, in part due to Audrey Braccini, their exceptionally talented winemaker. … Read more
P. Ferraud et Fils, Saint-Amour (Beaujolais, France) 2017
($17): 
Saint-Amour is the most northern Beaujolais cru and the second smallest, after Chénas. Clay in the granitic soil here adds an oomph to the wines, according to growers to whom I spoke. Ferraud’s is wonderfully fragrant and immediately enticing. After its floral allure, its power comes as a surprise, but a welcome one because it is not overdone. … Read more
P. Ferraud et Fils, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) “La Dynastie des Ferraud” 2015
($30): 
Though Ferraud’s wines have been in the U.S. market in the past, they currently have no importer, which is a shame because they consistently make distinctive Beaujolais. (The prices I quote come from a world-wide averages.) My experience with their wines comes from decades ago when they were imported and, more recently, drinking them in Paris bistros. … Read more
Raeburn Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2017
($20): 
Those who maintain that California Chardonnay has moved away from the rich buttery style to a more elegant, refined approach will find support for that generality with this wine. Lemony tones in the finish keeps it fresh, while delicate creamy notes remind why Chardonnay that has seen a judicious use of oak is so popular. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Grey Label” 2018
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Lunae Bosoni, the largest winery in Liguria, shows that big can be beautiful. They make an exquisitely consistent line-up of Vermentino. Scents of wild herbs and spice leap from the glass of this one, their so-called entry level wine. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Numero Chiuso” 2015
($60, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
This, Bosoni’s “number one,” is a limited production of 2,600 bottles from a single 20-hl barrel, where the wine rested on the lees for 14 months. The lees aging adds richness and roundness, which results in a different expression of Vermentino. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Cavagino” 2017
($45, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Though this Vermentino comes from three vineyards in the more highly regarded Cavagino area of the DOC, I suspect that the major difference in the wine’s character compared to Lunae Bosoni’s other Vermentinos is in the winemaking, because they have been experimenting with barrique fermentation. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Black Label” 2018
($40, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
I know my editor, and others, are wondering how I could possibly could give 95 points to a Vermentino. Taste it and you’ll see. As much as I like Lunae Bosoni’s “Grey Label” Vermentino, this, their so-called “Black Label,” is just better. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige – Südtirol DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2018
($15, HB Wine Merchants): 
Pinot Grigio spans the spectrum from innocuous or insipid to charming and noteworthy. Peter Zemmer’s is definitely in the latter group. An immediately captivating floral sensation predicts enjoyment. It has remarkable depth and persistence for a category that is all too often fleeting and bland. … Read more
P. Ferraud & Fils, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) “L’Éolienne” 2016
($25): 
Ferraud has had presence on the U.S. market for decades, but currently lacks an importer. That’s a shame because their wines are distinctive and unique. Take this one — a classic Moulin-à-Vent with fruit-infused charm, minerality, and a lovely fleshiness. … Read more
Domaine Ruet, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Douby 2017
($25, Schatzi Wines): 
Consumers can select anything that Domaine Ruet makes and be happy with it. This Morgon, from the climat (or vineyard) Douby, is sensational. It has the firmness for which Morgon is known, but with a charming fruitiness and haunting minerality. … Read more
Louis Tête, Beaujolais-Villages (France) 2017
($14): 
Beaujolais-Villages is a wine that comes from any one or a combination of 38 specified villages, and the category is thought to have the potential for more interesting wines compared to those labeled Beaujolais. This one is juicy, with good weight and concentration, yet not heavy or overly fruity. … Read more
Beaujolais: A Versatile Wine
One of the many things I love about Beaujolais is its variety and versatility. There’s Beaujolais Nouveau, a beverage that’s almost closer to alcoholic grape juice than to wine, and which many in the American wine press deride regularly. Released on the third Thursday of November, it can be a refreshing, all-purpose wine for the Thanksgiving table. … Read more
Domaine Bel Avenir, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) En Mortperay 2017
($25): 
Growers in Moulin-à-Vent, the most robust of the 10 crus of Beaujolais, have embraced the concept of making wines from specific sites, just as in the Côte d’Or, their more famous neighbor in Burgundy to the north. En Mortperay is one such site, situated on the edge of the appellation, bordering Fleurie. … Read more
Dominique Piron, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py 2017
($30): 
The Côte du Py is arguably the most famous climat or vineyard in Morgon and possibly all of Beaujolais. Composed of back stone, it can be home to power and dense wines that need considerable age before revealing their charms. … Read more
P. Ferraud & Fils, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Les Charmes 2018
($20): 
Ferraud, though lacking a U.S. importer now, had been in this market for decades and is a well-established name with a proven track record. Yves-Dominique Ferraud told me he thought the 2018 vintage in Beaujolais was a combination of the ripeness of 2015 and the raciness of 2016.… Read more
Domaine Ruet, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2017
($23, Schatzi Wines): 
I recently tasted six Beaujolais from this producer, one made without added sulfur, from three different vintages, 2016, 2017 and 2018. They were stunning across the board and demonstrated the enormous talent at the domaine. They have just under 3 acres on the slopes of Côte de Brouilly, one of the 10 crus of Beaujolais. … Read more
Piron & Lameloise, Chénas (Beaujolais, France) “Quartz” 2016
($23): 
The Lameloise family, whose name is synonymous with fine dining because of their Michelin 3-star restaurant in nearby Chagny, owns the vineyard in Chénas, the smallest of the 10 crus of Beaujolais, while Dominique Piron makes the wines. Floral and elegant, it’s a graceful wine that dances on the palate. … Read more
Update from Burgundy: Hot, But Not 2003…At Least Not Yet
Record-breaking temperatures hit France and elsewhere in Europe recently with Beaune, in the heart of Burgundy, recording temperatures of over 100 degrees. While those kinds of 
temperatures are common in California wine country, they are rare in Burgundy and immediately raise the question: How the vines and grapes faring?… Read more
Eberle Winery, Paso Robles (California) Syrah Steinbeck Vineyard 2017
($30): 
Syrah is a Janus-like wine, showing a plummy side when the grape is grown in warmer climes and peppery notes when those same grapes are planted in a cooler location. Gary Eberle, who must be a magician, has managed to combine both in this splendid Syrah. … Read more