($40, Montcalm Wine Importers): There us Vermentino, then there is Lunae Black Label Vermentino. I’ve always loved this wine and the 2020 is no exception. It has everything: richness, a saline-infused minerality, and extraordinary freshness. It has a seemingly never ending finish. … Read more
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Ferrari, TrentoDOC (Trentino, Italy) “Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore” 2008
($143, Taub Family Selections): There is no better Italian sparkling wine producer than Ferrari. Their entire line-up is Metodo Classico, that is, made with a secondary fermentation performed in the bottle, similar to the process in Champagne. Everything from their non-vintage blends to their mono-variety Chardonnays (also known as blanc de blancs) is consistently excellent and puts a smile on your face. … Read more
Château Lassègue, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) 2018
($52, Sovereign Wine Imports): California meets Saint-Emilion in this broad-shouldered Merlot/Cabernet Franc-dominant blend. The unnecessarily heavy bottle predicts the wine’s style. Though mostly black fruit-driven at this stage, a lovely mineral tarriness appears in the finish. I suspect more complexity will appear with bottle age. … Read more
Michael Apstein’s Top Five Wines of 2021
Not all of these five wines qualify as the best –however you define “best”—wine I had in 2021. Instead, each of them taught me something. As a doctor—the word comes from the Latin docere, to teach—I do teach. I teach patients, students, and young physicians.… Read more
2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Don’t Miss Them
The great success of the 2016 vintage throughout Tuscany suggested that the just-released 2016 Brunello would be memorable. Is it ever! To my mind, it is, by far, the best vintage since 2010. I certainly prefer the 2016s in general to the more powerful and overdone Brunello from the much-hyped 2015 vintage. … Read more
Far Mountain, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Myrna” 2019
($54): The grapes for this refined and reserved Chardonnay come from two cool sites. Roughly two-thirds come from Bald Mountain Vineyard, which is dry farmed and sits atop the second highest point of the Mayacamas Mountains. The other third comes from the Thornton Vineyard, a cool spot that sits at the base of the Sonoma Mountain. … Read more
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (California) Brut Rosé NV
($32): It is no surprise that Roederer Estate makes an exceptional line of sparkling wines in California since they are owned by the quality-driven French Champagne house of Roederer. In my opinion, Roederer Estate and Schramsberg are California’s best sparkling wine producers. … Read more
Boston Sunday Globe: What better place to learn about Greek wines?
Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay River West Vineyard 2018
($25): This suave and restrained wine is emblematic of the change in California Chardonnay. Still fruit focused, it has, thankfully, lost the opulent oaky and sweet character that has given Chardonnay such a bad name. Good acidity keeps it bright and energetic, making the last sip is as enjoyable as the first. … Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Zinfandel “Old Vines” 2018
($19): Showing lots of sweet oaky flavors at this stage makes this Sonoma County Zinfandel from Rodney Strong a good choice for smoky BBQ because the sweetness offsets the spice. Though not over-extracted or overdone, the richness of the wine still has plenty of oomph will stand up to the meat and its accompanied sauce.… Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Zinfandel “Heritage Vines” 2019
($26): Dry Creek Vineyard is as reliable a California producer as you can find. The quality and consistency of their wines reflect the five decades they’ve been at it in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley. Full disclosure: Zinfandel and Petite Sirah are two of my least favorite varieties because they are all too often overblown. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard 2018
($59): This is one of Gary Farrell’s notable wines in their line-up of consistently impressive single vineyard Pinot Noir. This mid-weight wine delivers a gorgeous and seamless synthesis of fruit and savory notes. With marvelous complexity and a glossy texture, it’s a delight to drink now. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel “Old Vine” 2019
($38): Dry Creek Vineyard continues their streak of balanced, not overblown, wines with their 2019 bottling of their Old Vine Zinfandel. It combines an alluring amalgam of subtle sweetness with spicy elements. Its suave texture makes it immediately enjoyable. It would be a good choice for spicy Mexican food.… Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) “The Mariner” 2018
($50): Dry Creek Vineyard’s Bordeaux-blend, labeled Mariner, has always been a bargain among that category of California wine. Their 2018 follows in that tradition. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3rds) with Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdon and Cabernet Franc filling out the other third, it is a muscular, but not overwrought, wine. … Read more
Vietti, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Perbacco” 2017
($31, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Vietti is one of a handful of producers whose wines never fail to impress. I doubt that they have ever made an undistinguished wine. You can safely buy anything Vietti makes. This Langhe Nebbiolo displays understated elegance and wonderful austerity. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “La Reine des Bois” 2018
($101, Kysela Père et Fils): Domaine de la Mordorée, founded only in 1986 by the Delorme family, makes a wonderful range of wines from several southern Rhône appellations. La Reine des Bois is, for all practical purposes, their top Châteauneuf-du-Pape (They do make a special cuvée occasionally, once or twice a decade, labeled Plume du Peintre, which is practically impossible to find and priced for the one-percenters of the world.) … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris “Classic” 2017
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.): Hugel, one of the brightest lights in Alsace, excels with their Rieslings, late harvest wines, and just about everything. This “classic” Pinot Gris delivers a touch of sweetness balanced by acidity that leaves the mouth clean and fresh. … Read more
2019 Burgundies: A Mixed Bag
While consistency is rarely a word used when describing Burgundies, the 2019 Burgundies present the consumer with an even greater-than-usual stylistic variation. The usual suspects explain the diversity of the wines: Frost, poor flowering, and heat. Frost, which affected areas almost capriciously—some vineyards lost 40 percent of their grapes, while adjacent ones were spared—reduced the crop in many appellations. … Read more
Far Mountain, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Fission” 2018
($69): Far Mountain is a new project by two Chileans who have a vast experience in the wine business, the husband and wife team of Mai Errazuriz and Rodrigo Soto. Mai, from the family that founded Viña Errazuriz, a leading Chilean producer, also has experience in California as marketing director for Quintessa. … Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Merlot 2017
($16): Easy to sip, this fleshy and fruity Sonoma County Merlot from Rodney Strong displays ripe plum-like flavors wrapped in suave tannins. It’s especially fine for those who relish a glass of red wine before a meal.
87 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2021… Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($17): Compared to Rodney Strong’s Sonoma County Merlot, this 2018 Cabernet displays more savory — olive-like — notes, as befitting that variety. It’s still fruit-focused, but with more structure. Suavely texture, it’s perfect for current consumption. Have a sip of their 2017 Merlot before dinner and take this Cabernet to the table.… Read more
Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranches 2019
($58): Davis Bynum’s Dutton Ranches bottling offers sweeter and riper notes, with more fruitier elements and fewer savory ones compared to their straight Russian River bottling. It is a more muscular and juicy wine that finishes a touch sweet. People who crave power in Pinot Noir will embrace it.… Read more
Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2018
($35): Davis Bynum was a pioneer with Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley, being the first to bottle a single vineyard example of that wine almost 50 years ago. This one, despite a stated alcohol of 14.5 percent, is balanced and not overblown or overdone. … Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($21): Rodney Strong’s Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon takes several giant steps up in interest and complexity from the Sonoma County bottling, but thankfully, not at the cost of a big jump in price. Since the winemaking is similar, this bottling shows the importance of the origin of the grapes. … Read more
Jacques Lurton, Bordeaux (France) Cabernet Sauvignon “Diane” 2020
($14): The Lurton name is famous in Bordeaux. The recently deceased André Lurton was instrumental in carving out the Pessac-Léognan appellation from Graves. The family owns more than 20 châteaux and nephew Pierre Lurton manages Château d’Yquem, the greatest property in Sauternes. … Read more
Denis Jamain / Domaine de Reuilly, Reuilly Rouge (Loire Valley, France) Pinot Noir 2018
($24, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Cognoscenti know Reuilly, a tiny (300-acre) off the beaten track appellation in the eastern Loire, for its Sauvignon Blanc-based wines — kind of a mini-Sancerre. Curiously, Denis Jamain has more Pinot Noir planted there than Sauvignon Blanc (~20 acres versus 15). … Read more
Trivento, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec Reserve 2020
($9): This is a softly textured easy to sip red that finishes a touch sweet. Fortunately, it is not overdone, weighing in at a modest 13.5 percent stated alcohol, which makes it a fine choice for those who prefer to sip on a red wine as an aperitif. … Read more
From Decanter Magazine: Wine and Digestion
Perfect Pairings – Ecstasy or Agony?
Tenuta Carretta, Roero Arneis Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Canorei” 2017
($27): Canorei is Carretta’s oldest vineyard. They vinify and then age their best grapes from this vineyard in oak barrels. The oak influence is still apparent in this 2017, but the alluring stone fruit aroma of Arneis still comes through. The oak, and perhaps the age of the vines, add opulence and weight that some consumers will find appealing. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Roero Arneis DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Cayega” 2020
($22): White wines from Roero, an area just across the Tanaro River from Barolo, must contain at least 95 percent Arneis, a grape that has been resurrected over the last over the last several decades. Arneis likely was neglected because Piedmont, after all, is known for its red wines. … Read more
Tenuta Cerulli Spinozzi, Colli Aprutini IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Cortalto” 2018
($17, Romano Brands): First, Pecorino is also an Italian grape, not just a cheese. Second, it makes lovely wines that I predict will take the world by storm. This one by Cerulli Spinozzi, one of the region’s top producers, delivers a panoply of mouth-cleansing citrus flavors that buttresses its good density. … Read more
Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches Blanc: Created by an Act of God
In this article, Michael Apstein tells the history, viticulture and winemaking side of Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches Blanc. As well as a vertical tasting of the wines spanning close to 40 years.
by Michael Apstein
Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches Blanc is a rarity in Beaune, where 86 percent of the appellation’s vines are red.
Bodegas Granbazan, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Etiqueta Ambar” 2020
($23): Riás Baixas, a small area tucked away in Galicia in north western Spain, can make cutting white wines, like this one, from the Albariño grape. Grandbazan’s 2020 delivers a hint of grapefruit rind pithiness and good depth. Not a pre-dinner sipping wine because it might take the enamel off your teeth. … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Private Bin” 2020
($14, Winebow): The popularity of Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough area of New Zealand’s South Island has grown enormously over the last two decades. And Villa Maria is one of the reasons. This clean and fresh Sauvignon Blanc displays an electricity-like energy that accompanies, but does not overwhelm, its subtle fruitiness. … Read more
Vinicola Cherchi, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Tuvaoes” 2019
($27, Romano Brands): Vermentino can produce wines ranging from innocuous to stunning. Put this one in the stunning category. It combines a lovely saline-like invigorating character with good weight and length. It commands a presence on the table without being heavy or overdone. … Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
($59): Jordan, a leader in California Cabernet, continues to do what it does best — making graceful and elegant Cabernet Sauvignon. As usual, their 2017 is fits that mold. Not a bombastic wine, this mid-weight beauty delivers a wonderful combination of red fruit notes and spice. … Read more
Tenuta Regaleali, Sicilia DOC (Italy) Catarratto “Buonsenso 2020″
($19, Winebow): Tasca d’Almerita family owns Tenuta Regaleali, a great and reliable name for Sicilian wine. They have transformed Catarratto, another autochthonous grape, into a fleshy and cutting wine. (Soon Catarratto will be called Lucido, after one of its clones, for marketing reasons because the Sicilians believe it is easier for foreigners — mainland Italians included — to pronounce.) … Read more
Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Ben Ryé” 2018
($35, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Pantelleria is not an appealing place to make wine. An island off the coast of Sicily closer to Africa than to Rome, it’s been described as “a volcanic rock jutting from the sea” where the major activity is “listening to the wind.” … Read more
Planeta, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) 2018
($29, Taub Family Selections): Planeta is so consistently reliable that consumers can basically pick any of their wines and be thrilled with the choice. Their Etna Bianco, made from Carricante, a grape indigenous to Sicily, is stunning and dispels any notion that Sicily is incapable of making great wine. … Read more
Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2019
($19, Taub Family Selections): Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG wine, is a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frapatto, two of Sicily’s autochthonous grapes. Planeta’s is simply marvelous. Refined, it delivers a balanced combination of minerals and cherry-like fruit. Weighing in at a modest 13 percent stated alcohol, it is not particularly opulent, but it is particularly penetrating. … Read more
Vivera, Nero d’Avola DOP (Sicily, Italy) 2020
($23, Montcalm Wine Importers): I was unfamiliar with this producer until samples arrived on my doorstep. Now, with this Nero d’Avola and their equally impressive Etna Rosso, Vivera is a name I will remember. The fleshy character of this Nero d’Avola presents a great counterpoint to the sleek austerity of their 2019 Etna Rosso. … Read more
Concha y Toro, Valle del Limar (Chile) Pinot Noir Quebrada Seca Vineyard Marques de Casa Concha 2019
($25): Valle del Limari, in the north of Chile, is hot and dry, not exactly the conditions that Pinot Noir loves. But Concha y Toro’s shines, in part, because of the vineyard’s location on the banks near the Limari River, which cuts through the coastal range of mountains and allows cooling Pacific Ocean air to bath the grapes. … Read more
Concha y Toro, Peumo (Cachapoal Valley, Chile) Carmenere Marques de Casa Concha 2019
($25): Carmenere (often spelled Carménère), originally and still planted in Bordeaux, has taken off in Chile. Growers there confused the grape with Merlot (which was often planted in the same areas long before precise record keeping became the norm) and wound up harvesting it too early, which led to weedy, green flavors in the wine. … Read more
Sonoma-Cutrer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2019
($30): Sonoma-Cutrer, a leading Sonoma producer, bottles a bevy of Pinot Noirs. This, their “entry level” offering, is a good example of Russian River Pinot Noir. Though fruit-focused, attractive earthy, leafy notes appear with air and add complexity. Its fruitiness comes through in the finish as a hint of sweetness. … Read more
Las Moradas de San Martin, Vinos de Madrid DO (Spain) Garnacha “Initio” 2011
($25): First, please note that this decade-old wine is the current release. Secondly, if you read the label and note its 15 percent stated-alcohol, you might be put off. Don’t be. I can’t explain it, but Garnacha can carry that level of alcohol beautifully, as this wine shows. … Read more
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Famiglia Pasqua” 2016
($45): Amarone, by type, is a big wine because regulations require that it be made from partially dehydrated grapes. Its power comes from the concentration of sugar, resulting in higher alcohol, acids and everything else that occurs as the grapes dry and shrivel. … Read more
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Mai Dire Mai” 2012
($105): Never say never, the translation of Mai Dire Mai, as in “I never like Amarone,” is appropriate for this massive wine. I’m not usually a fan of Amarone because they can be overwhelming. And that’s what you’d expect from one with a stated-alcohol of 16.5 percent. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Roero Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Bric Paradiso” 2016
($35): The red wines from the Roero DOC, just across the river from Barolo and Barbaresco are under-rated and fly under the radar as Michael Franz, my friend and colleague at WineReviewOnline.com, has pointed out. Juicy and succulent, this youthful example shows just how impressive the wines from this DOC can be. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Cascina Bordino” 2015
($55, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports): With prices of Barolo and Barbaresco going higher and higher, this wine should be on every Piedmont-lovers list. Its relative bargain status — I hate to call a $55 wine a bargain, but it is — could be due to the 2015 vintage, an excellent year overshadowed by the hype justifiably afforded the 2016s. … Read more