All posts by admin

Ferrari, TrentoDOC (Trentino, Italy) “Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore” 2008

($143, Taub Family Selections):  There is no better Italian sparkling wine producer than Ferrari.  Their entire line-up is Metodo Classico, that is, made with a secondary fermentation performed in the bottle, similar to the process in Champagne.  Everything from their non-vintage blends to their mono-variety Chardonnays (also known as blanc de blancs) is consistently excellent and puts a smile on your face. Read more

Far Mountain, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Myrna” 2019

($54):  The grapes for this refined and reserved Chardonnay come from two cool sites.  Roughly two-thirds come from Bald Mountain Vineyard, which is dry farmed and sits atop the second highest point of the Mayacamas Mountains.  The other third comes from the Thornton Vineyard, a cool spot that sits at the base of the Sonoma Mountain. Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) “The Mariner” 2018

($50):  Dry Creek Vineyard’s Bordeaux-blend, labeled Mariner, has always been a bargain among that category of California wine.  Their 2018 follows in that tradition.  A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3rds) with Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdon and Cabernet Franc filling out the other third, it is a muscular, but not overwrought, wine. Read more

Domaine de la Mordorée, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “La Reine des Bois” 2018

($101, Kysela Père et Fils):  Domaine de la Mordorée, founded only in 1986 by the Delorme family, makes a wonderful range of wines from several southern Rhône appellations.  La Reine des Bois is, for all practical purposes, their top Châteauneuf-du-Pape (They do make a special cuvée occasionally, once or twice a decade, labeled Plume du Peintre, which is practically impossible to find and priced for the one-percenters of the world.) Read more

2019 Burgundies: A Mixed Bag

While consistency is rarely a word used when describing Burgundies, the 2019 Burgundies present the consumer with an even greater-than-usual stylistic variation.  The usual suspects explain the diversity of the wines:  Frost, poor flowering, and heat.  Frost, which affected areas almost capriciously—some vineyards lost 40 percent of their grapes, while adjacent ones were spared—reduced the crop in many appellations. … Read more

Rodney Strong Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

($17):  Compared to Rodney Strong’s Sonoma County Merlot, this 2018 Cabernet displays more savory — olive-like — notes, as befitting that variety.  It’s still fruit-focused, but with more structure.  Suavely texture, it’s perfect for current consumption.  Have a sip of their 2017 Merlot before dinner and take this Cabernet to the table.Read more

Tenuta Carretta, Roero Arneis Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Canorei” 2017

($27):  Canorei is Carretta’s oldest vineyard.  They vinify and then age their best grapes from this vineyard in oak barrels.  The oak influence is still apparent in this 2017, but the alluring stone fruit aroma of Arneis still comes through.  The oak, and perhaps the age of the vines, add opulence and weight that some consumers will find appealing. Read more

Tenuta Regaleali, Sicilia DOC (Italy) Catarratto “Buonsenso 2020″

($19, Winebow):  Tasca d’Almerita family owns Tenuta Regaleali, a great and reliable name for Sicilian wine.  They have transformed Catarratto, another autochthonous grape, into a fleshy and cutting wine.  (Soon Catarratto will be called Lucido, after one of its clones, for marketing reasons because the Sicilians believe it is easier for foreigners — mainland Italians included — to pronounce.) Read more

Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2019

($19, Taub Family Selections):  Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG wine, is a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frapatto, two of Sicily’s autochthonous grapes.  Planeta’s is simply marvelous.  Refined, it delivers a balanced combination of minerals and cherry-like fruit.  Weighing in at a modest 13 percent stated alcohol, it is not particularly opulent, but it is particularly penetrating. Read more

Concha y Toro, Valle del Limar (Chile) Pinot Noir Quebrada Seca Vineyard Marques de Casa Concha 2019

($25):  Valle del Limari, in the north of Chile, is hot and dry, not exactly the conditions that Pinot Noir loves.  But Concha y Toro’s shines, in part, because of the vineyard’s location on the banks near the Limari River, which cuts through the coastal range of mountains and allows cooling Pacific Ocean air to bath the grapes. Read more

Tenuta Carretta, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Cascina Bordino” 2015

($55, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports):  With prices of Barolo and Barbaresco going higher and higher, this wine should be on every Piedmont-lovers list.  Its relative bargain status — I hate to call a $55 wine a bargain, but it is — could be due to the 2015 vintage, an excellent year overshadowed by the hype justifiably afforded the 2016s. Read more