Category Archives: Reviews

Willm, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr 2009

($20, Touton):  What a buy!  With a whiff of cherries–I can see why the vineyard’s called Kirchberg–and bracing minerality, this is truly grand cru Riesling.  Long and precise, it awakens the palate without assaulting it.  A glass on a hot summer’s day is refreshingly clean and bright, but a couple of glasses with grilled swordfish and a caper butter sauce is even better.… Read more

Domaines Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Couvent des Jacobins” 2009

($22, Kobrand):  This Bourgogne Rouge is a real treat from Jadot
because the grapes come entirely from the domains they control: Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot, and Domaine Gagey, which explains the labeling.  No purchased grapes or wine go into this bottling, which distinguishes it from Jadot’s other Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more

Mongeard-Mugneret, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2010

($24, Vineyard Brands):  Mongeard-Mugneret, a small grower located in Vosne-Romanée, makes traditionally proportioned graceful Burgundies.  They emphasize elegance and persistence rather than shear power.  And those characteristics are evident in this Bourgogne Rouge.  It’s a fine introduction to true Burgundy, showing the savory and earthy side of Pinot Noir.… Read more

Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2009

($119, Vineyard Brands):  Beaucastel is one of the top properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  Year after year, they produce a multidimensional, age-worthy wine.  Although Mourvèdre and Grenache, at about 30% each, comprise the majority of the blend, Beaucastel uses all 13 grape varieties permitted in the appellation, which may explain the phenomenal complexity of their wines, especially the 2009. … Read more

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2008

($24):  Savennières, a tiny appellation on the Loire River, makes unique dry and racy wines from Chenin Blanc, a grape better known for sweet wines.  Baumard is one of the appellation’s leading producers.  Baumard’s 2008, bottled under screw cap to preserve freshness, has an alluring combination of honey-like, but not sweet, richness and savory, sharp, che 91 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012Read more

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2008

($38):  As good as Baumard’s regular bottling of Savennières is, this one, from a particularly well-sited vineyard, is even better. With more complexity, the interplay of richness and savory herbal notes in the Clos du Papillon creates even more intrigue.  Despite the increased concentration, this maintains impeccable balance and finesse.… Read more

Telmo Rodriguez, Valdeorras (Spain) Mencia “Gaba do Xil” 2010

($18):  Valdeorras, the valley of gold, named because the Romans discovered the metal there, is nestled in the northwestern part of Spain.  The Mencia grape, usually associated with Bierzo, the adjacent DO, also does well in the region.  The beauty of wine made from Mencia, like this one, is the earthy, savory (non-fruit) nuances it delivers along with the charming combination of red fruit flavors. … Read more

Cave de Tain, St. Joseph Rouge (Rhône Valley, France) “Esprit de Granite” 2009

($22, Cognac One):  The appellation of St. Joseph lies on the right (West) bank of the Rhône, facing east and its more famous neighbor, Hermitage.  Though the granite soil is similar to that of Hermitage and the grape (Syrah) is the same, the wines are lighter and earlier maturing because the east-facing exposure means less sunlight–and ripeness–during the harvest season. … Read more

Cave de Tain, Saint-Péray (Rhône Valley, France) “Fleur de Roc” 2009

($20, Cognac One):  Saint-Péray, a tiny appellation in the Rhône, produces only white or sparkling wine.  Cave de Tain is the local, highly regarded cooperative there.  Like many Rhône white wines, this one delivers fleshy yellow fruit flavors.  But unlike many white Rhônes, it also has lovely brightness and vivacity to balance the usual waxy texture. … Read more