($55): If your idea of California Chardonnay is heavy and buttery, this graceful one with surprise you. Restrained, weighing in at a modest, 13.5 percent-stated alcohol, it nonetheless makes a prominent presence. Despite its apparent lack of power, there’s plenty going on here. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2020
($50): Tongue Dancer has skillfully managed to produce single-vineyard Chardonnay that are different, unique, and demonstrate a stylistic spectrum of the Russian River Valley. This beautifully balanced one displays lavish tropical fruit notes supported by zesty acidity and a welcoming hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Irwin Lane 2020
($42): Tongue Dancer’s Pratt Vineyard Irwin Lane bottling seems like a marriage of their Pratt Vine Hill and their Bacigalupi, with a touch more density and fruitiness compared to the Pratt Vine Hill, but fewer tropical aspects seen in the Bacigalupi. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Vine Hill Road 2020
($65): This sleek and racy Chardonnay is the bookend to Tongue Dancer’s tropically infused Bacigalupi Vineyard bottling. With a modest 13.1 percent stated alcohol, the taut Pratt Vine Hill Chardonnay delights the plate with flinty and mineral nuances. It unfolds gloriously as it sits in the glass so don’t be put off by its initial reticence. … Read more
Borthwick Vineyards, Wairarapa (South Island, New Zealand) “Paper Road CPR” 2021
($17, Levecke Imports): The CPR refers to the blend of this zippy wine: Chardonnay 23%, Pinot Gris 50%, and Riesling. A charmer, it leads with fine and flowery aromatics and then follows with sufficient depth to hold up and balance its energy.… Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2022
($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): Regular WineReviewOnline readers know of my aversion to rosé, which, all too often, is insipid and lacks interest. Not this one! Of course, it comes from Tavel, an appellation that allows producers to make only rosé and from one of the top producers not just in Tavel, but in the entire Rhône Valley. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2020
($35, Kysela Pere et Fils): Lirac, a lesser-known appellation across the Rhône River from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is, like that more well-known neighbor, also a cru of the Rhône, a distinction given to a village and its surroundings that makes distinctive wines. So, looking at the Rhône quality pyramid, Lirac sits with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and other crus, at the top. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): The quality of wines labeled Côtes du Rhône is as vast as the appellation, which is to say, vast. So, what differentiates one from another? The producer, of course. And Domaine de la Mordorée is one of the best, not only of Côtes du Rhône, but of other Rhône Valley appellations as well. … Read more
Paul Hobbs, West Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2021
($80): The Sonoma Coast AVA is enormous, even encompassing the Russian River Valley, a warmer locate. Growers whose vineyards were closer to the Pacific would claim their wines came from “the real Sonoma Coast.” Finally, in 2022 The West Sonoma Coast, a strip closest to the Pacific Ocean, was rightly carved out of the greater Sonoma Coast AVA and given its own AVA. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2020
($63): One of the impressive things about Tongue Dancer’s wines is that they reflect their AVAs. This one from the cooler Sonoma Coast, still fruit-focused, manages to combine the appealing cherry-like aromatics and flavors with clear savory influences. Complexity emerges as it sits in the glass. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pinot de Ville” 2020
($63): The talented team of James and Kerry MacPhail oversee Liquid Vineyl, the producer of Tongue Dancer wines. Since everyone just refers to them as Tongue Dancer, I am using that moniker as the producer. The MacPhails seem to favor a ripe, full-bodied style of Pinot Noir that emphasizes fruit over the grape’s potential savory side, though subtle herbal nuances do peak through in their Pinot de Ville. … Read more
Domaine Elodie Balme, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($29, Louis/Dressner Selections): Elodie Balme symbolizes a new generation of winemakers in Rasteau, employing organic viticulture and making slightly less muscular wines that are formerly emblematic to this appellation. That said, no one would categorize this beauty, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvèdre, as a light wine. … Read more
Château de Montfaucon, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “Comtesse Madeleine” 2021
($30): Lirac, an often-overlooked appellation of the southern Rhône just to the west of Châteauneuf du Pape, is one of two Rhône appellations that makes all three colors, reds, whites, and rosés. (Vacqueyras is the other.) From what I heard from many during my recent trip to the area, Château de Montfaucon is one of the leading producers there. … Read more
Domaine Pélaquié, Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($15): French wine regulators allow 22 (at current count) villages that produce sufficiently distinctive wine to put their name on the label along with the appellation Côtes du Rhône Villages. It is an elite club, accounting for only about ten percent of the wine from the Rhône Valley. … Read more
E. Guigal, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2019
($70, Vintus Wines): Condrieu, a small roughly 500-acre, appellation in the northern Rhône valley, mandates the exclusive use of Viognier, a temperamental grape. Guigal, arguably the Rhône’s best producer overall, has (perhaps unsurprisingly) tamed it and turned it into an excellent wine. … Read more
M. Chapoutier, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “La Petite Ruche” 2020
($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Chapoutier, one of the best producers in the Rhône Valley, is both a négociant and a grower. As a grower, the house makes estate wine from grapes in vineyards they own. As a négociant, the company buys either very newly pressed wine or grapes from their neighbors and transform it into wine.… Read more
E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2019
($16, Vintus Wines): To me, the mark of a great producer lies in their least expensive wine. Of course, Guigal is rightly known for their mind-boggling La La’s, small single-vineyard wines, La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque, from the Côte Rôtie, whose approximate 20,000-bottle combined annual production is highly allocated and sells for hundreds of dollars a bottle. … Read more
Domaine Bernard Burgaud, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) 2020
($73): Côte Rôtie, a small appellation in the Northern Rhône that is home to spectacular red wines, allows the inclusion of up to 20 percent Viognier. Burgaud included some Viognier in their Côte Rôtie in the past, but Pierre Burgaud, who is currently in charge, told me that with climate change and better ripening of Syrah, they no longer feel the need to add Viognier to bolster the alcohol. … Read more
Guy Charlemagne, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV
($72, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Ironically, Guy Charlemagne who is located in Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of Champagne’s great sites for Chardonnay, makes this fabulous Rosé entirely from Pinot Noir. Yes, it’s a gloriously rich powerhouse, yet it is balanced and not overdone. … Read more
Domaine Gérard Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2020
($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Fourchaume, one of top Premier Cru vineyards of Chablis, abuts the Grand Cru vineyards on the right bank of the Serein River. Generally, the wines from Fourchaume are more voluptuous, relatively speaking of course, then the wines from other 1er cru vineyards. … Read more
Modus Operandi Cellars, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Vicarious” 2020
($35): Focusing on the fruity, rather than savory, side of Pinot Noir, this ready-to-drink wine delivers ripe dark plum-like notes. This broad-shouldered wine is suavely textured with adequate acidity to balance its ripe black fruit profile. It finishes with the barest hint of sweetness. … Read more
Modus Operandi Cellars, Petaluma Gap (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2021
($85): Judging from the two Pinot Noir and one Cabernet Sauvignon that I tasted, Modus Operandi favors a bold style of wine. Savory nuances add balance to this ripe,15 percent stated-alcohol, black-fruited beauty. Despite the savory notes, it comes across as slightly riper and bolder than their Vicarious bottling. … Read more
Modus Operandi Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
($115): Olive-like and herbal nuances balance the dense black cassis-like fruit in this rich and concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon. This muscle-bound wine carries its 15.5% stated alcohol easily. An alluring hint of tarriness enhances the long and enveloping finish. With a luxuriously suave texture, this archetypal Napa Cabernet would be an excellent choice with a char-broiled steak tonight.… Read more
Capezzana, Vin Santo di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2015
($90, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): The bottles were opened at least a dozen yards away, but the aromas of apricots and nuts stopped all conversation as people looked for the source of the wondrous aromas. Vin Santo is a curious wine, this one especially. … Read more
Capezzana, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2018
($62, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): This youthful treasure is a single vineyard Sangiovese named after Ugo Contini Bonacossi, the force behind the modern Capezzana estate who sadly passed away in 2013. The production is small, fewer than 3,000 bottles a year, because only the best grapes from this vineyard that Ugo loved go into the wine. … Read more
Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Trefiano” Riserva 2018
($66, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Capezzana produces their Trefiano Riserva, a blend of Sangiovese (80%) with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo, only in the best years. The stunning 2018, a big wine, to be sure, is balanced by spicy, savory notes and an incredible freshness. … Read more
Guy Charlemagne, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV
($72, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Ironically, Guy Charlemagne who is located in Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of Champagne’s great sites for Chardonnay, makes this fabulous Rosé entirely from Pinot Noir. Yes, it’s a gloriously rich powerhouse, yet it is balanced and not overdone. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Saint Véran (Burgundy, France) “Les Deux Moulins” 2020
($35, Louis Latour, USA): The Saint Véran appellation abuts Pouilly-Fuissé and, unsurprisingly, the wines are similar. Though when tasting the same producer’s Saint Véran next to their Pouilly-Fuissé, the latter always comes away the winner, at least until you see the prices. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) Les Genièvres 2020
($24, Louis Latour, USA): The Mâconnais, a region of Burgundy that lies south of the famed and expensive Côte d’Or, is an unexplored treasure-trove of Chardonnay-based wines. The base of the pedigree pyramid are wines labeled Mâcon-Villages, which means they came from grapes grown anywhere throughout the region. … Read more
Domaine Gérard Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2020
($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Fourchaume, one of top Premier Cru vineyards of Chablis, abuts the Grand Cru vineyards on the right bank of the Serein River. Generally, the wines from Fourchaume are more voluptuous, relatively speaking of course, then the wines from other 1er cru vineyards. … Read more
Sommariva, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($17, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): There is Prosecco and then there is the huge step up to Prosecco from the hilly Valdobbiadene – Conegliano region. Of course, it’s a mouthful to pronounce, but it’s worth remembering the distinction when buying Prosecco. … Read more
Castello di Ama, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Pinot Nero “Il Chiuso” 2019
($48): Castello di Ama is known for spectacular Chianti Classico. But Pinot Nero? Isn’t it too warm in Chianti Classico to grow Pinot Nero? Apparently not, judging from this energetic beauty. The expressive aromatics and savory notes suggest the Pinot Nero must be planted in a cool site. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($22): The 2020 vintage in Chianti Classico generally produced rich satisfying wines. Badia a Coltibuono’s certainly fits that mold with dark, but not black, cherry nuances. It has great concentration but more importantly, gorgeous balancing acidity that gives this mid-weight wine enormous energy. … Read more
Fattoria Le Masse, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($45): An electric tension between fruit and firmness energizes this mid-weight wine. Made entirely from Sangiovese, this elegant and sculpted Chianti Classico has a bit of everything, floral aromatics, a steady frame, and a suave texture. Black cherry-like notes add charm to the finish. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Sardegna Alghero Rosso DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Tanca Farrà” 2019
($32, Taub Family Selections): Regulations for the Sardegna Alghero Rosso DOC allow the inclusion of any Sardinian red grapes except for aromatic ones. Sella & Mosca use a seamless, fifty-fifty blend of Cannonau and Cabernet Sauvignon to achieve this beauty. Juicy black fruit enrobed with fine tannins make this suave, muscular wine a pleasure to drink now. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Sardegna Alghero DOC (Sardinia, Italy) 2016
($60, Taub Family Selections): This big but not boisterous wine shows that Sella & Mosca is equally capable with the so-called international grapes as with local ones. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon, the Marchese di Villamarina delivers succulent black fruit, plenty of savory notes all wrapped in firm, not hard, tannins. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Cannonau di Sardegna DOC Riserva (Sardinia, Italy) 2020
($17, Taub Family Selections): Sella & Mosca, despite their size — the largest estate on Sardinia — makes excellent wines. This juicy mid-weight Cannonau, the local name for Grenache, delivers crunchy red fruit combined with a hint of spice. Not a fruit bomb by any means, it actually has an engaging hint of bitterness in its long finish. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2020
($45, Louis Latour, USA): This Santenay is just one example of the great success Latour had with their village wines in 2020. Characteristic of the vintage, it has good depth that augments its charm. Supple, fresh, and long, it is a delight now — and refined for a village Santenay. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2020
($50, Louis Latour, USA): Mercurey, a village just south of the Côte d’Or in the Côte Chalonnaise, is known primarily for red wines. In general, the warmth of 2020 growing season added ripeness to these wines complementing their stoney character. That explains the appeal of this Mercurey from Latour. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2020
($45, Louis Latour, USA): Burgundy lovers have discovered the charms of Marsannay, the northernmost village of the Côtes de Nuits. Prices have risen as a result and are poised to continue their climb because the village is in the process of having some vineyards certified as 1er Cru. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020
($45): Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014. To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one. This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019
($28): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust. Put this one in the latter category. Earthy notes support dark fruit character. Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020
($45): Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014. To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one. This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Rosso di Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ghiaie della Furba” 2015
($60, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Ghiaie della Furba, a Super Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah from Capezzana, Carmignano’s top producer, is a robust wine when young. Even at eight years of age, this tightly wound beauty reveals its glories slowly as it sits in the glass. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2016
($31, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Carmignano, Tuscany’s smallest DOCG, is unique because it requires the use of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, in the blend with Sangiovese. Capezzana makes the benchmark Carmignano. Their 2016, from a spectacular vintage and still widely available retail, is a great introduction to the DOCG. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019
($28): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust. Put this one in the latter category. Earthy notes support dark fruit character. Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. … Read more
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton-Perrières 2020
($375): Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers. They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009. Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.” … Read more
La Rioja Alta, Rioja Reserva DOC (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” 2016
($42): La Rioja Alta is one of Rioja’s top producers. Their Viña Ardanza, an exquisite blend of Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha, brings both red fruit and savory nuances together. Subtle mature hints add complexity and intrigue. Suavely textured, the emphasis is on elegance and stature, not power. … Read more
Herdade de Sao Miguel, Alentejano (Portugal) “Colheita Seleccionada” 2020
($15, Quintessential Wines): With wines like this one Portugal is poised to supply the world with satisfying wines at good prices. A blend of four red grapes, Alicante Bouschet (50%) Touriga Nacional (30%) Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, known for making power packed wines, it is — unsurprisingly — a bold wine. … Read more
Vigna 800, Valpolicella Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “La Cesolina” 2020
($35): Light and fresh, Le Cesolina is just what you want with Valpolicella. Don’t misinterpret the light and fresh moniker to mean vapid. Not at all. Though this juicy red wine weighs in at a mere 12.5 percent stated alcohol, it delivers plenty of enjoyment with juicy red cherry-like flavors. … Read more