Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Vine Hill Road 2020

($65):  This sleek and racy Chardonnay is the bookend to Tongue Dancer’s tropically infused Bacigalupi Vineyard bottling.  With a modest 13.1 percent stated alcohol, the taut Pratt Vine Hill Chardonnay delights the plate with flinty and mineral nuances.  It unfolds gloriously as it sits in the glass so don’t be put off by its initial reticence. Read more

Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2020

($35, Kysela Pere et Fils):  Lirac, a lesser-known appellation across the Rhône River from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is, like that more well-known neighbor, also a cru of the Rhône, a distinction given to a village and its surroundings that makes distinctive wines.  So, looking at the Rhône quality pyramid, Lirac sits with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and other crus, at the top. Read more

Paul Hobbs, West Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2021

($80):  The Sonoma Coast AVA is enormous, even encompassing the Russian River Valley, a warmer locate.  Growers whose vineyards were closer to the Pacific would claim their wines came from “the real Sonoma Coast.”  Finally, in 2022 The West Sonoma Coast, a strip closest to the Pacific Ocean, was rightly carved out of the greater Sonoma Coast AVA and given its own AVA. Read more

Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pinot de Ville” 2020

($63):  The talented team of James and Kerry MacPhail oversee Liquid Vineyl, the producer of Tongue Dancer wines.  Since everyone just refers to them as Tongue Dancer, I am using that moniker as the producer.  The MacPhails seem to favor a ripe, full-bodied style of Pinot Noir that emphasizes fruit over the grape’s potential savory side, though subtle herbal nuances do peak through in their Pinot de Ville. Read more

Château de Montfaucon, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “Comtesse Madeleine” 2021

($30):  Lirac, an often-overlooked appellation of the southern Rhône just to the west of Châteauneuf du Pape, is one of two Rhône appellations that makes all three colors, reds, whites, and rosés.  (Vacqueyras is the other.)  From what I heard from many during my recent trip to the area, Château de Montfaucon is one of the leading producers there. Read more

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2019

($16, Vintus Wines):  To me, the mark of a great producer lies in their least expensive wine.  Of course, Guigal is rightly known for their mind-boggling La La’s, small single-vineyard wines, La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque, from the Côte Rôtie, whose approximate 20,000-bottle combined annual production is highly allocated and sells for hundreds of dollars a bottle. Read more

Domaine Bernard Burgaud, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) 2020

($73):  Côte Rôtie, a small appellation in the Northern Rhône that is home to spectacular red wines, allows the inclusion of up to 20 percent Viognier.  Burgaud included some Viognier in their Côte Rôtie in the past, but Pierre Burgaud, who is currently in charge, told me that with climate change and better ripening of Syrah, they no longer feel the need to add Viognier to bolster the alcohol. Read more

Modus Operandi Cellars, Petaluma Gap (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2021

($85):  Judging from the two Pinot Noir and one Cabernet Sauvignon that I tasted, Modus Operandi favors a bold style of wine.  Savory nuances add balance to this ripe,15 percent stated-alcohol, black-fruited beauty.  Despite the savory notes, it comes across as slightly riper and bolder than their Vicarious bottling. Read more

Modus Operandi Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

($115):  Olive-like and herbal nuances balance the dense black cassis-like fruit in this rich and concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon.  This muscle-bound wine carries its 15.5% stated alcohol easily.  An alluring hint of tarriness enhances the long and enveloping finish.  With a luxuriously suave texture, this archetypal Napa Cabernet would be an excellent choice with a char-broiled steak tonight.Read more

Sella & Mosca, Sardegna Alghero Rosso DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Tanca Farrà” 2019

($32, Taub Family Selections):  Regulations for the Sardegna Alghero Rosso DOC allow the inclusion of any Sardinian red grapes except for aromatic ones.  Sella & Mosca use a seamless, fifty-fifty blend of Cannonau and Cabernet Sauvignon to achieve this beauty.  Juicy black fruit enrobed with fine tannins make this suave, muscular wine a pleasure to drink now. Read more

Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020

($45):  Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014.  To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one.  This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. Read more

Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019

($28):  Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust.  Put this one in the latter category.  Earthy notes support dark fruit character.  Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. Read more

Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020

($45):  Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014.  To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one.  This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. Read more

Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019

($28):  Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust.  Put this one in the latter category.  Earthy notes support dark fruit character.  Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. Read more

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton-Perrières 2020

($375):  Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers.  They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009.  Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.” Read more