($63): One of the many attributes of Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noirs, is how different they taste. Her range of vineyard-designated wines show the importance of site. The 2017 Flax Vineyard Pinot Noir is almost at the opposite pole compared to the Bucher Vineyard. … Read more
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Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard 2017
($63): The Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir, a new addition to the Merry Edwards portfolio, could be considered Heidi von der Mehden’s “baby.” Heidi, who took over as winemaker with the 2018 vintage, had been working with Merry Edwards since 2015 and was given the responsibility for making the 2016 Bucher Pinot Noir, their first. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2017
($68): First planted in 1973 by the Pellegrini family, the Olivet Lane Vineyard was one of the first in the Russian River Valley devoted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Merry Edwards has used Pinot Noir from Olivet Lane for a single-vineyard bottling since the founding of her winery in 1997. … Read more
Bodegas Pinea del Duero, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo “Pinea” 2017
($150, WineSmith Company): The packaging and verbiage, 14.9 percent stated alcohol, the over-sized 2.6-pound (empty) bottle and the back label informing that the wine was aged in” very special French oak” for two years, put me off. But I remember how impressive their second wine, simply labeled “17” was. … Read more
Pazos de Rey, Monterrei DO (Galicia, Spain) Godello “Pazo de Monterrey” 2019
($15, Aviva Vino): Do. Not. Miss. This. Wine. Made from an obscure grape (but not for long), from an obscure region (also not for long), this wine is a bargain. The small, relatively unknown Monterrei DO (pronounced—Mon-ter-rey) is located in the southern part of Galicia near the Portuguese border. … Read more
Bodegas Caro, Mendoza (Argentina) “CARO” 2017
($60, Taub Family Selections): The name of the bodega and its flagship wine comes from the first two letters of the last names of the principals involved in this collaborative effort: Nicolas Catena and Barons de (Lafite) Rothschild. With those two wineries involved how could their flagship wine not be consistently sensational? … Read more
Résonance, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2018
($35): In 2013, the venerable Beaune-based négociant, Maison Louis Jadot, made their first acquisition outside of Burgundy when they purchased the 20-acre Resonance vineyard located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. It was a unique site since it had been planted almost exclusively to Pinot Noir, and had always been farmed organically and without irrigation, according to Pierre-Henri Gagey, the President of Maison Louis Jadot. … Read more
Talbott Vineyards, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Estate Grown 2017
($42): David Coventry, the head winemaker at Talbott explained during a webinar in the excellent SommCon Geographical Digest Series (a collaboration between The Somm Journal and National Geographic), that the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA is truly a cool climate area because of its proximity to the ocean. … Read more
Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs, Brut NV
($96, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Charles Heidsieck is really on their game with their current releases. The back label informs that the grapes came mainly from the Grand and Premier Cru villages, respectively, of Oger and Vertus in the Côte des Blancs, the region’s premier locale for Chardonnay. … Read more
Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Rosé Réserve NV
($87, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Charles Heidsieck is a name to remember when buying Champagne. For some bizarre reason, it seems to receive less buzz than many of the other major houses. But that is changing under the Descours family ownership since 2011. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Leading the Way
With the release of a trio of 2017 Gran Selezione wines, Castello di Fonterutoli is leading the way, showing the importance of terroir—site specificity—in Chianti Classico. Chianti Classico producers have long proclaimed that there are major differences among the wines produced in the region’s nine subzones. … Read more
Tamarack Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Firehouse Red” 2017
($20): Given the blend, Syrah (33%), Cabernet Sauvignon (27%), Merlot (18%), Cabernet Franc (11%), Mourvèdre (3%), and 2% each of Grenache, Counoise, Sangiovese and Petit Verdot, they could have called it “Kitchen Sink Red.” But it works. Fruit flavors mix with savory ones. … Read more
Mullan Road Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) Red Wine Blend 2016
($45): Unsurprisingly, wine webinars in the era of Covid-19 are hit or miss. One that I highly recommend is the SommCon Geographical Digest Series, a collaboration between The Somm Journal and National Geographic, during which I tasted this wine, which was previously unknown to me. … Read more
Domaine du Château de Messey, Mâcon Cruzille (Mâconnais, Burgundy, France) Clos des Avoueries 2017
($39, Seaview Imports): The Mâconnais is becoming to “go-to” place for affordable white Burgundy. The region has three tiers, which, in ascending order of prestige, are Macon, Macon-Villages, and, at the top, Macon with the name of a village, such as Cruzille, appended to it. … Read more
Domaine Antonin Guyon, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) “La Justice” 2017
($85, Taub Family Selections): Domaine Antonin Guyon is a name you can trust. They make incredibly consistent wines from Grand Cru to their village wines, such as this one, that lies on the wrong side of the road. La Justice is one of the rare vineyards that lies on the eastern side of the RN974, the main north-south road in Burgundy, to be awarded a village designation instead of just a regional appellation. … Read more
Domaine Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) “Les Cras” 2017
($95, Taub Family Selections): Similar to many vineyards in Burgundy, Les Cras isn’t contained within a single appellation. Part of this vineyard is classified as Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru, while another part is only entitled to a village Chambolle-Musigny appellation. The portion of Les Cras that carries the village appellation lies above the better situated — middle of the slope — portion that is classified as 1er Cru. … Read more
Château de La Chaize, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2017
($19, Taub Family Selections): Brouilly, the largest of the ten Beaujolais cru, often disappoints. Thankfully, the 2017 from Château de La Chaize, one of the top producers of Brouilly, does not. It has good concentration, zippy acidity that keeps it fresh and lively, and lots of juicy fruitiness. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Badiòla” 2017
($99, Taub Family Selections): Giovanni Mazzei, Fonterutoli’s export manager, believes that the vineyard’s southern exposure and high elevation (almost 1900 feet above sea level) combines great sunlight with large diurnal temperature variation, the combination of which results in ripeness and freshness. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Vicoregio 36” 2017
($99): The Mazzei family planted 36 biotypes of Sangiovese in their Vicoregio vineyard in Castelnuovo Berardenga. Hence the name of the wine. This one, the deepest of the trio, conveys black cherry-like flavors, bordering on plumy ones, reflecting the warmth of Castelnuovo Berardenga. … Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Castello Fonterutoli” 2017
($74, Taub Family Selections): The grapes for “Castello Fonterutoli” come from 11 different plots around the hamlet of Fonterutoli. Each plot is vinified separately, allowing precision in constructing the blend. The 2017 is the first year the wine was made entirely from Sangiovese. … Read more
Bouvet Ladubay, Loire Valley (France) Rosé Excellence, Brut NV
($16): Bouvet Ladubay, one of the Loire’s largest producers of sparkling wine, is back under Monmousseau family control since 2015, after having been run by a succession of corporate enterprises. This mid-weight rosé, made exclusively from Cabernet Franc grown in the Saumur region of the Loire Valley, delivers spice with a hint of sweetness. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Saint-Aubin (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2017
($30): Saint-Aubin, lying behind the famous white wine villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet with their Grand Cru vineyards, is off the beaten tract, which means consumers can find value. Prices for Premier Cru Saint-Aubin have climbed dramatically as consumers have caught on, but bargains still exist for village wines, even from a top producer like Langoureau. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Pouilly-Fuissé (Mâconnais, Burgundy, France) 2017
($27): Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, needs no further introduction. It’s hard to go wrong with any wine carrying the Jadot name. With the 2020 vintage, regulators have designated about 25 percent of the vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé, the leading village in the Mâconnais, to have Premier Cru status. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Santenay (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2018
($40, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Though Jadot is a major négociant, they also are an important grower, farming over 300 acres of vineyards in Burgundy. This Santenay, from a village in the southern part of the Côte de Beaune, is from one of their vineyards. … Read more
Domaine Dominique Guyon, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames de Vergy” 2018
($30): The Hautes Côtes de Nuits, a regional appellation, sits above and behind (to the west) of the Côte de Nuits, a sort of hinterland. Many of the reds from here have a rustic charm. Dominique Guyon, the son of another fabulous producer, Antonin Guyon, makes a more refined version than many. … Read more
In Praise of Regional and Village Burgundy…or, Where to Find Value
Simple economics explains why the wine from Burgundy, or Bourgogne, as the French would now like us to call it, has become expensive. Really expensive. French wine regulations limit what can be planted where (a.k.a. the supply) and demand has increased as new markets around the world, such as China, Japan, and Russia, to name just three, discover Burgundy’s allure. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France) 2018
($27): Consumers can safely select virtually any wine from Drouhin, another top-tier Burgundy producer. Indeed, I could include their Bourgogne Blanc “Laforet,” or their Mâcon-Villages, both of which typically retail for less than $20 a bottle, but I chose their Rully, from a village in the Côte Chalonnaise. … Read more
Parent, Monthélie Blanc (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2017
($48): Domaine Parent, arguably the best producer of Pommard, also makes this stunning white Monthélie. It’s a bit of an oddity because ninety percent of Monthélie’s production is red and the vast majority of Parent’s production comes from their own vineyards. … Read more
Domaine Guilhem et Jean Hugues Goisot, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre (Burgundy, France) Gueules de Loup 2017
($35): Goisot is a good example of why my mantra is producer, producer, producer. You can buy any of their wines and be thrilled. They are located in the far north of Burgundy, near Chablis and make an array of distinctive and captivating wines. … Read more
Domaine Michel Bouzereau, Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2017
($30): With the 2017 vintage, regulators added a new sub-category, Côte d’Or, to Bourgogne, the very broad regional appellation that allowed grapes to come from anywhere in Burgundy. Wines labeled Bourgogne Côte d’Or mean that the grapes all come from the famed Côte d’Or, the very heart of Burgundy. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Mercurey (Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy, France) 2015
($26, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Though Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is best known for its reds, it’s a treasure trove of affordable Burgundy, both red and white. Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, rarely disappoints. The 2015 vintage is one of the best of the decade.… Read more
Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France) “Les Finottes” 2018
($30): Domaine Bart is a star producer in Marsannay. This house makes splendid Grand Crus, such as Bonnes-Mares and Chambertin Clos de Bèze that routinely sell for $200+ a bottle upon release. Their skill is also found in a bevy of single-vineyard wines from the village of Marsannay, the northern most village of the Côte de Nuits. … Read more
Château de la Maltroye, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2017
($27): Château de la Maltroye, a top producer of both red and white wines from Chassagne-Montrachet, makes this charming Bourgogne Rouge from vineyards in that village that lie outside the boundaries of the village appellation. Delicate red fruit flavors balance its savory, herbal side. … Read more
Domaine Jean et Giles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France) 2017
($37): One formula for Burgundy bargains is to find a top producer who lives and has vineyards in an out-of-the-way place. Domaine Lafouge’s Auxey-Duresses (“oh say doo ress”) fits that formula. Auxey-Duresses, like Monthélie, which it abuts, is situated in the prestigious Côte d’Or, but most of its vineyards lie even further west. … Read more
Firesteed, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2019
($16): With roughly twice the acreage planted as Chardonnay, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio, in Italian) is Oregon’s second most widely planted variety, after Pinot Noir. As a wine, Pinot Gris’ spectrum is wide, ranging from light and innocuous to rich with stone fruit flavors and even some sweetness. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Russian River Selection” 2018
($35): Gary Farrell is well-known for producing excellent single-vineyard Pinot Noirs. They also produce a bevy of single-vineyard Chardonnays. This one, however, their Russian River Selection, is a blend of Chardonnay grown in five vineyards: Westside Farms, Bacigalupi Vineyard, Rochioli, Allen and Olivet Lane. … Read more
Laetitia, Arroyo Grande Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Estate 2019
($22): Let me jump to the bottom line: This is a great value Chardonnay. Racy and clean, this vigorous Chardonnay has the barest hint of alluring creaminess as well. Though not an opulent style of Chardonnay, it still has plenty of stuffing and terrific energy. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2017
($68): Wow! It’s worth repeating, Wow! And I don’t mean that in terms of power, I mean that in terms of stature and finesse. Merry Edwards has always been one of my favorite producers, especially for Pinot Noir, but she has outdone herself with their 2017 Meredith Estate. … Read more
Ridge Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Lytton Springs” 2018
($44): Full disclosure: I am prejudiced against Zinfandel. So, perhaps my enthusiasm for this wine is helped by the absence of a varietal name on the label, but I don’t think so because I tasted it in a line-up of Zinfandels at a SommCon Virtual Summit. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Sant’Antimo DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Rosso Col d’Orcia” 2014
($25, Taub Family Selections): Col d’Orcia, best known for their stunning Brunello di Montalcino, makes other wines. At first glance at the label, you might think this is their Rosso di Montalcino. It’s not. Also, don’t be put off by the 2014 vintage, which was, as the Italians themselves describe it, “difficult.” … Read more
Travaglino, Oltrepò Pavese DOC (Lombardy, Italy) Pinot Nero Poggio della Butinera Riserva 2015
($42): Italy is not known for Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir) the way it is for Nebbiolo or Sangiovese. In the relatively cool Oltrepò Pavese region, the grape does well, as Travaglino shows with this 2015 Riserva. Nicely concentrated, but certainly nowhere near a New World style, it delivers both fruit flavors and savory character, the latter of which is immediately apparent in the nose and carries onto the palate. … Read more
Champagne Devaux, Champagne (France) “Augusta” Brut NV
($40, Seaview Imports): The Augusta refers to Augusta-Maria Herbin, Devaux’s wife, another widow of Champagne, who led the firm from 1879 to 1895. Family ownership ended in 1987, when, according to their website, it passed to the Union Auboise, now Groupe Vinicole Champagne Devaux, a co-operative. … Read more
Bodegas Caro, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “Aruma” 2018
($15, Taub Family Selections): This Malbec is an unusual wine for Bodegas Caro, a collaboration between Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and Nicolas Catena, two stars in the wine world. It is unusual because they pride themselves on combining two winemaking cultures, Bordeaux and Argentina, and their two respective grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, but there’s no Cab in this. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2019
($20): Founded in 1972 by David Stare and still family-run, Dry Creek Vineyard continues to excel. Dry Creek Vineyard’s initial focus was on Sauvignon Blanc because Stare loved the wines of the Loire Valley. So, it’s not surprising that Dry Creek Vineyard continues to make a consistently fine Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Raeburn Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2019
($22): The focus of the 2019 Raeburn Pinot Noir is firmly on bright pure cherry-like fruit. Suavely textured, it is easy to enjoy this mid-weight wine now. A touch of heat and a hint of sweetness in the finish likely results from the 14.5 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Signature” 2016
($90): An over-sized bottle with the wine weighing in at 15.1 percent stated alcohol accurately predicts the nature of this Cabernet Sauvignon: powerful. Fruit-forward and dominant, it’s a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with small amounts of Merlot, Malbec, Carmenere and Saint-Macaire, an ancient grape from Bordeaux, which is no longer used there, but was included in the allowed mix for Meritage wines in California. … Read more
Black Stallion Estate Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Release 2017
($60): The packaging — over-sized bottle — and 15 percent stated alcohol suggests this Cabernet is from the “bigger is better” school. And there is no question, it’s a big, ripe wine with plenty of power. Yet, it’s not overblown or overdone. … Read more
Agricola Punica, Isola del Nuraghi IGT (Sardinia, Italy) “Barrua” 2015
($46): Agricola Punica is a collaboration between Tenuta San Guido, the Bolgheri producer responsible for Sassicaia, and Sardinia’s Cantina di Santadi. The late Giacomo Tachis, who was a genius at sensing the utility of the so-called Bordeaux varieties in selected Italian locales, suggested the blend of Carignano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for their wine to be called “Barrua.” … Read more
Schloss Johannisberg, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Silberlack Trocken GG 2018
($75): Schloss Johannisberg, whose Riesling planting started in 1719, is thought to be the oldest Riesling producer in the world. (The first documented wine harvest from the site itself was a roughly a thousand years earlier, in 817.) The estate grows only Riesling, yet makes many different wines depending on where in the vineyard the grapes grow and when they are harvested. … Read more
Glory in Givry: Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines
As in its more famous neighbouring region, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay reign supreme and, with rare exceptions, are the mandated grapes for the wines.
Major appellations in the Côte Chalonnaise, moving from north to south, include Rully and Mercurey, which produce both red and white wine, Givry, which produces mostly (80%) red wine, and Montagny, which produces white wine exclusively.… Read more