($32): Similar to Dry Creek Valley’s Sauvignon Blanc, their DCV Block 10 Chardonnay is a study in balance. They manage barrel fermentation and aging judiciously so that just a wisp of oak-scented creaminess comes through, harmonizing with the fruitiness of the grape without overpowering it. … Read more
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Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2020
($17): Dry Creek vineyard draws on their nearly half-century experience in Dry Creek Valley to fashion beautifully balanced wines that speak rather than scream. This Sauvignon Blanc has a bit — but not too much — of the bite characteristic of the grape variety. … Read more
Vigna Petrussa, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2019
($30): The leadership of this family-owned winery is unique. Hilde Petrussa, the current director, is the third generation of female directors. This Friulano is equally unique. It has good weight, stone fruit character, all supported and balanced by excellent acidity. A ying and yang of a subtle creamy richness and hint of bitterness in the finish just makes it just that much more appealing.… Read more
Fattoria Varramista, Toscana IGP (Tuscany, Italy) “Frasca” 2015
($33): Fattoria Varramista, located halfway between Florene and Pisa, has about 20 acres of vineyards planted to Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. They expertly blend those grapes to make this glossy well-proportioned wine where none of its elements predominate. Fleshy, but not overly fruity, savory notes remain in this traditionally framed wine. … Read more
Fondo Antico, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Parlante” 2019
($19): Although only started in 2000, the family-run Fondo Antico, has a long connection with grapes as a grower for Marsala. They have about 200 acres of vineyards on the western side of the island where they grow both autochthonous varieties, such as Grillo, and so-called international grapes. … Read more
Tenute Soletta, Vermentino di Sardegna (Sardinia, Italy) “Sardo” 2019
($20): The brother and sister-run Tenute Soletta is a new estate by Italian standards, having been created in 1996. They use only their own grapes and focus on this Vermentino and a similarly delicious Cannonau. This Vermentino spends about seven months on the lees, which likely accounts, at least in part, for its richness. … Read more
Tenute Soletta, Cannonau di Sardegna (Sardinia, Italy) “Sardo” 2016
($24): This Cannonau (also known as Garnacha or Grenache), displays a dark, haunting profile with slightly funky, in a nice way, accents. Dark fruit flavors are apparent and balance the savory elements in this chewy wine. This is a weighty, but not heavy, wine perfect for a hearty meal on a winter day or to serve with robust fare from the grill.… Read more
Celli, Bertinaro Romagna DOC (Emilia Romagna) Sangiovese Riserva, “Bron & Rusèval” 2017
($28): Since Sangiovese, a grape associated with Tuscany, is the most widely planted grape in Italy, it is not surprising to find excellent wines made from it outside of that region. Here’s one such example from nearby Romagna, which Mauro Sirri, the owner of Celli, is quick to identify as distinct from Emilia: “They’re known for Lambrusco; we’re known for dry wines.” … Read more
2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Don’t Miss Them
The great success of the 2016 vintage throughout Tuscany suggested that the just-released 2016 Brunello would be memorable. Is it ever! To my mind, it is, by far, the best vintage since 2010. I certainly prefer the 2016s in general to the more powerful and overdone Brunello from the much-hyped 2015 vintage. … Read more
David Paige Wines, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2018
($29): The cooler Oregon climate likely explains why most Chardonnays from there are typically more understated than most California renditions of Chardonnay. Finesse-filled and restrained, but certainly not lacking a presence, the 2018 David Paige Chardonnay fits that profile. A real plus is its below-$30 price tag, unusual for a Chardonnay of this stature. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2019
($30): This is the third consecutive year when Naumes Family Vineyard has hit the mark with Viognier, a notoriously difficult grape to tame. I could easily cut and paste my reviews of their 2017 and 2018 for this one. But, frankly, it is worth repeating because although balance is always key in wines, it is especially important with Viognier, whose window of ripeness is narrow. … Read more
Il Colle, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($20): Established in 1978, Il Colle remains a family-run estate that produces an array of Prosecco. This one shows the beauty of the DOCG, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, compared to a straight DOC Prosecco. It has a finesse and refinement that most DOC Prosecco just don’t deliver. … Read more
Isola Augusta, Trevenezie IGP (Veneto, Italy) Schioppettino 2019
($20): Founded in 1959 by Renzo Bassani, the third generation of the that environmentally-conscious family is now involved. They gradually expanded to about 125 acres of vineyards, which provide sufficient fruit for all their wines. Indeed, they sell some of their grapes to their neighbors. … Read more
CaselFarneto, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy) Verdicchio “Fontevecchia” 2017
($15, Enotec Imports): Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is one of Italy’s great white wines that flies under most peoples’ radar. Italian wine regulators awarded the top category, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva, DOCG status, showing the potential of the region. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” (Grey Label) 2020
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): Lunae Bosoni, one of Liguria’s top producers, consistently makes a stunning line up of Vermentino wines. The 2020 maintains that tradition. Riper than usual in this vintage, this nevertheless has very energetic acidity holds everything together. An intriguing and uplifting saline touch keeps you interested and invites another sip. … Read more
Masciarelli, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) Trebbiano “Marina Cvetic” Riserva 2018
($58, Vintus): Similar to its red counterpart, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo can be grown all over the province and varies in quality from insipid to inspiring. As you would expect from a top producer, Masciarelli’s fits the latter category. Why the vast difference? … Read more
Center of Effort, Edna Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay “Effort” 2017
($24): The name of the winery, Center of Effort, is a sailing term, which, to my non-nautical brain, means the wind hits the sail in exactly the right place. This well-price Chardonnay, which they call an introduction to their estate, hits all the right notes. … Read more
Center of Effort, Edna Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay “Center of Effort” 2015
($35): Nathan Carlson from Center of Effort insists that Edna Valley is ideally suited for Chardonnay. And indeed, Chardonnay is the most planted grape in the area, according to him. Judging from this five-year old wine, I agree that Edna Valley is an ideal place for this variety. … Read more
Sosie, Moon Mountain District (Sonoma County, California) Cavedale Vineyard Red Blend 2017
($45): Despite its 14.5 percent stated-alcohol, Sosie (pronounced so-zee) is fresh and lively, not overdone at all. Paradoxically, there’s almost a lovely austere character to it. Firm, not hard, tannins frame its racy red fruit flavors. Mineral-like notes — you can almost taste the volcanic soil — and a pleasing hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its allure. … Read more
Bodegas Torres, Catalunya DO (Spain) “Viña Sol” 2019
($11, Miguel Torres USA): Bodegas Torres, certainly one of the most important producers in Spain, produces this bargain-priced delightful racy white wine year after year. Full of energy and life, the 2019 is a blend of Parellada, an important component of Cava, and Garnacha Blanco. … Read more
Angelini, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2020
($12): Starting with the 2019 vintage, Prosecco Rosé is an official DOC. Initially, I suspected this category was a brilliant marketing maneuver combining two of the hottest wine categories today. However, producers have told me that Prosecco Rosé should be a premium product that will likely cost more. … Read more
Donnafugata, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2018
($24, Folio Fine Wine Partners): The primary grape for Etna Bianco is Carricante, one that is unique to Sicily. Though people, rightly, associate red wine with Sicily, Carricante produces impressive and distinctive whites, especially when grown on the slopes of Mount Etna. … Read more
Miguel Torres, Central Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc “Las Mulas” Reserva 2019
($13, Miguel Torres USA): This Sauvignon Blanc, the white equivalent of Torres’ Las Mulas Cabernet, is, like the red counterpart, balanced. It delivers a pleasant bite characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc without shaking you by the lapels. Lively and fresh, it’s another excellent buy.… Read more
Miguel Torres, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Cordillera de los Andes” Reserva Especial 2017
($22, Miguel Torres USA): Miguel Torres has vineyards throughout Chile to match grapes with areas particularly well suited to them. The grapes for this one come from the Maipo Valley, an area renown for top Cabernet Sauvignon. Very aromatic, this Cabernet has good weight and delivers a mix of dark black fruit interspersed with spicy savory notes. … Read more
Miguel Torres, Curicó Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon, Old Vines “Manso de Velasco” 2013
($54, Miguel Torres USA): Named for Manso de Velasco, the Governor of Chile during colonial times and the founder of the city of Curicó, this Cabernet Sauvignon comes exclusively from 100-plus year-old vines grown on the estate of the same name. … Read more
Miguel Torres, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Las Mulas” Reserva 2019
($14, Miguel Torres USA): Miguel Torres, one of Spain’s leading producers, expanded to Chile in 1979, becoming the first foreign investment in that country’s wine industry, according to their website. Torres introduced the Las Mulas line — the wines are made entirely from organic grapes — in 2010. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2018
($38): Full disclosure: Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, which comprise 99 percent of the blend of this wine, are among my least favorite varieties because, when converted to wine, they often display power and little else. So, imagine my surprise when I discovered how well Dry Creek Vineyard manages them. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($45, Taub Family Selections): Col d’Orcia, one of the largest producers of Brunello di Montalcino, has proven, time and time again, that quality and quantity can go together. They did it again with their positively stellar 2016 Brunello. The 2016 vintage is outstanding throughout Tuscany.… Read more
From Decanter Magazine, “Domaine Du Cellier Aux Moines”
Tasting five decades of Louis Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne
Corton-Charlemagne, one of the world’s greatest white wines, needs a decade to blossom fully and to show why it deserves its grand cru status. And then, like a great red wine, the best vintages from a top producer remain at their peak, on a plateau, for decades.… Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Russian River Selection” 2018
($45): Gary Farrell is a winery known for brilliant single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which show that terroir is alive and well in California. This one, however, is a blend to represent the Russian River Valley in general — and it does. … Read more
Sullivan Rutherford Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Coeur de Vigne” 2017
($90): Though Coeur de Vigne might suggest highly selected grapes and an over-extracted precious wine, this one is not. Though more immediately appealing — slightly softer and rounder — than their Estate Bottling (previously reviewed), it displays the classic savory-ripe dark fruit mixture for which top Napa Valley Cabernet is known. … Read more
Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
($48): Lovely savory, olive-like notes balance the dark fruitiness of this big bold and broad Cabernet. Fine tannins provide structure without being astringent or intrusive. There’s a delightful hint of bitterness in the finish to emphasize this is not a “fruit bomb.” … Read more
Michèle Capdepon, Blanquette de Limoux (Languedoc, France) Brut NV
($20, Wines Of France): The Languedoc region of France is a treasure trove for wines, from those labeled Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP, or what was formerly Vin de Pays) to more prestigious ones that carry an appellation, such as this one.… Read more
Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Ste. Claire” 2019
($24): Jean-Marc Brocard, one of my favorite producers in Chablis, consistently makes a stunning array of wines. I can’t remember a wine from them that failed to impress. The family-run estate farms organically and shuns the use of new oak barrels because they want to emphasize the character the site imparts to the grapes. … Read more
Bodega Trivento, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec Reserve 2019
($12): This lighter styled Malbec will appeal especially to those who find most Malbecs too overpowering or heavy. Still, it has good concentration despite its lack of muscularity. Savory, smoke-y undertones balance the dark fruity profile. Suave, mild tannins mean this is a wine to enjoy now. … Read more
The Joys of Exploring Italian Wines
One of the many things I adore about Italian wine is its seemingly limitless depth. You can always uncover a wine area or category unbeknownst to you, even if it’s been known to the Italians themselves for decades. Take, for example, Albana Romagna. … Read more
Raeburn Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2019
($25): A whiff of savory notes peek out from the ripe Sonoma fruit lending intrigue to this Pinot Noir. A touch of heat and sweetness in the finish reflects the stated 14.5 percent alcohol. Mild tannins allow you to enjoy it with grilled salmon.… Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Meritage 2018
($32): Dry Creek Vineyard, still owned by the Stare family, is approaching their half-century mark of making wine in Dry Creek Valley. Though I’ve always been a fan of their balanced wines, I think they are just getting better and better. … Read more
Ai Galli, Delle Venezie DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019
($12): Ai Galli also shows their talents with a bargain-priced “entry-level,” as they call it, Pinot Grigio. Fresh and floral wine, it has a captivating delicacy. This clean crisp Pinot Grigio finishes with a welcoming hint of bitterness. And look at the price. … Read more
Cantina Kaltern, Kalterersee Classico Superiore DOC (Alto Adige, Italy) “Quintessenz” 2017
($34, Enotec Imports, Inc): Since this DOC is not well-known to most Americans (I had to run to the reference books), a little background. The DOC is named for a large lake that lies within Alto Adige. “Classico,” as usual in the Italian DOC nomenclature, refers to the original or heart of the area. … Read more
Celli, Romagna Albana Secco DOCG (Italy) “I Croppi” 2019
($20): The Albana grape is uniquely suited to the Bertinoro subregion of Romagna where Celli is located thanks to the calcium rich soil, locally known as spungone, a vestige of its underwater location 3.5 million years ago. Celli’s 2019 I Croppi is outstanding. … Read more
Domaine Antonin Guyon, Delle Venezie DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019
($12): Ai Galli also shows their talents with a bargain-priced “entry-level,” as they call it, Pinot Grigio. Fresh and floral wine, it has a captivating delicacy. This clean crisp Pinot Grigio finishes with a welcoming hint of bitterness. And look at the price. … Read more
Merry Edwards Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($38): Merry Edwards, one of California top Pinot Noir producers, is also making a name for herself with Sauvignon Blanc. Edwards’ working with Sauvignon Blanc should come as no surprise since she was responsible for the legendary ones from Matanzas Creek when she was the winemaker there. … Read more
Thierry Germain / Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur Champigny (Loire Valley, France) Clos de L’Échelier 2018
($70, Vineyard Road): Thierry Germain at Domaine des Roches Neuves is one of the Loire’s young superstars. He makes a range of reds from Cabernet Franc, as is the tradition in Saumur Champigny. This one, one of his top cuvées, comes from a 4.5-acre terraced plot of 70-year old vines. … Read more
Château de Corcelles, Vin de France (France) Gamay “Les Copains d’Abord” 2018
($18, Seaview Imports): Château de Corcelles, an historic property located just east of Villé-Morgon, produces a range of Beaujolais. They also produce this wine, entirely from Gamay, presumably, from vines that are located just outside of the Beaujolais delimited zone. Though it has the charm of Beaujolais, they can’t legally call it that. … Read more
Louis Max, Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2018
($15, HB Wine Imports): As this wine shows, wines from the broad Côtes du Rhône appellation can provide an excellent pleasure-to-price ratio. A balanced and lively Grenache and Syrah blend, it has good concentration and the oomph you would expect from the south of France. … Read more
Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2018
($96, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Château de la Maltroye, a consistently reliable producer of both red and white wines, succeeded admirably in 2018. This white, from their monopole, exhibits the broader and weightier minerality characteristic of Chassagne, compared to Puligny. Good acidity balances and amplifies its charms. … Read more
Gallina de Piel, Empordà (Catalonia, Spain) “Roca del Crit” 2018
($30, Bluest Sky Group): Roca del Crit (screaming rock) was a place behind El Bulli where, the story goes, David Seijas, the sommelier at that famed restaurant, could escape and scream to relieve tension from work. Roca del Crit is more robust than its stable mate, Mimetic, with a focus more on minerals and earth. … Read more
Gallina de Piel, Calatayud (Aragón, Spain) “Mimetic” 2018
($15, Bluest Sky Group): Though I’ve given some background on the Gallina de Piel wines previously, it bears repeating because their wines represent great bargains. So, it’s worth hearing the story again. Two sommeliers, one of whom, David Seijas, worked at El Bulli, named the best restaurant in the world five times by Restaurant magazine, founded Gallina de Piel. … Read more