($17, American Wine Distributors): The Clare Valley is a prime area for Riesling and Wakefield is one the region’s best producers. Owned by the Taylor family and sold under the name Taylor in Australia, they use the Wakefield label in the US because of trademark issues. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2010
($20): 
Eroica, a joint project between Dr. Loosen, one of Germany’s top Riesling producers, and Chateau Ste. Michelle, has been a smashing success since its launch in 1999. The 2010 continues that tradition with a delicate lacy fruitiness beautifully complemented by bracing and zesty citrus-like acidity. … Read more
Château Penin, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($15, Wine Brokers International): The 2009 vintage in Bordeaux produced ripe, fleshy red wines. Even at the lower appellation levels, such as Bordeaux Supérieur, the tannins are ripe and supple, not green, which makes these wines particularly attractive. The 2009 Château Penin is classic Bordeaux with a satisfying combination of ripe red fruit flavors and earthy nuances. … Read more
Château Lestrille, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($13, Wine Brokers International): Here’s another bargain priced Bordeaux that shows how the lower appellations benefited from the ripeness of the 2009 vintage. Black fruit flavor predominate in this weightier wine. Subtle tarry elements and even a mildly chewy texture add to its appeal. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2010
($21, Kobrand): 
Craggy Range focuses on making wines from individual, single vineyards in an attempt to capture the flavors of a unique site. I don’t have sufficient experience with vineyard sites for red wines in New Zealand to know whether they succeeded in that goal. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Abeilles” 2010
($11, Palm Bay International): White Côtes du Rhône can be tough, often heavy, lacking acidity. But when they’re balanced, like this one, they are hard to resist. A blend of Clairette (80%) and Roussanne, Colombo captures the slightly peach or apricot stone fruit character while retaining vibrancy and freshness. … Read more
Domaine Vigneau-Chevreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2010
($21, Cynthia Hurley Imports): Vouvray, an under-rated and misunderstood appellation, is home to some 
terrific wines, like this one. But the stumbling block for consumers, which prevents more widespread appreciation of the category, is deciphering the level of sweetness. This one is almost bone dry and mineraly with delicate green apple notes. … Read more
Domaine du Tariquet, Côte de Gascogne (Gascony, France) Chenin – Chardonnay 2010
($9, Robert Kacher Selections): Domaine des Salices, another François Lurton estate, makes a lovely array of wines from the Languedoc region in the southwest of France. Taking advantage of the looser regulations of the Vin de Pays designation (as opposed to the stricter appellation controllée rules), they sell the wines using varietal names. … Read more
Bodegas François Lurton, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Torrontés 2011
($11, Vintus Imports): Since 1988, Jacques and François Lurton, sons of André Lurton, the patriarch of one of Bordeaux’s most important families, have established wineries outside of Bordeaux and have become one of the leading producers in Argentina. Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white grape, is under appreciated and deserves the popularity that Malbec has. … Read more
Colomé Estate, Calchaqui Valley (Salta, Argentina) Malbec 2009
($25): The Colomé website notes their vineyards are at an elevation between 
2,300 and 3,111 meters (7,544 and 10,204 feet), the highest in the world. The elevation moderates what would be otherwise scorching heat and allows the grapes to hold their acidity, which translates into a fresh and lively wine. … Read more
Domaine des Salices, Vin de Pay d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Viognier 2009
($13, Vintus Imports): Domaine des Salices, another François Lurton estate, makes a lovely array of wines from the Languedoc region in the southwest of France. Taking advantage of the looser regulations of the Vin de Pays designation (as opposed to the stricter appellation controllée rules), they sell the wines using varietal names. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Abeilles” 2009
($12, Palm Bay International): 
Colombo is a star producer in Cornas, a small appellation in the Northern Rhône. His Côtes du Rhône, dubbed Les Abeilles (the bees) is always a winner as well. With equal parts Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, the 2009 is no exception.… Read more
Volteo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo/Shiraz 2009
($11, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.): This blend from Ramón Bilbao, a leading Rioja producer, delivers a juicy mixture of red and black fruit flavors. Bright and robust, it has polished tannins that make it perfect for hearty fare now.… Read more
Domaine Serge Laporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2010
($25, Cynthia Hurley Imports): 
Although Sauvignon Blanc is the required grape in Sancerre for white wine, authentic Sancerre evokes the place, not the grape. Fortunately for consumers, Serge Laporte makes authentic Sancerre. His importer tells me that half of the wine comes from Les Monts Damnés (the damned mountains) in Chavignol, considered by many to be Sancerre’s best site, which could explain why this wine is so distinctive. … Read more
Domaine Cazes, Muscat de Rivesaltes (Roussillon, France) 2007
($15, Robert Kacher Selections): The attractive strength of this Muscat de Rivesaltes is the dominant floral and orange-scented aromatics and flavors. The flavors are fresh and fruity with subtle citrus notes, 15% alcohol and good length through the fruity finish. Drink now. … Read more
Weingut August Eser, Rheingau (Germany) Riesling “Classic” 2010
($23, AP Wine Imports): The importer told me that the Classic moniker is an attempt by producers to replace the halbtrocken (half-dry) designation and indicate a drier style of Riesling. To my mind, this plethora of descriptors just muddies the already murky waters of trying to tell a consumer whether it’s a dry or sweet Riesling. … Read more
Domaine Lou Frejau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2007
($50, AP Wine Imports): Founded by Serge Chastan in 1982, Domaine Lou Frejau, which means round pebbles after the stones found in the vineyards, produces this Châteauneuf-du-Pape from all of the eight permitted varieties of red grapes. Their 2007 is certainly filled with ripe fruit flavors and spice, but also displays considerable elegance unlike many of the super concentrated southern Rhone wines from that year. … Read more
Domaine Jean Teiller, Menetou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) 2010
($25, AP Wine Imports): Menetou-Salon, a small appellation near Sancerre, is a good place for consumers to find vibrant Sauvignon Blanc-based wines, like this one from Domaine Jean Teiller. Not just delivering grapefruit-tinged fruitiness, this conveys a mouth-watering chalky minerality. Good intensity and length adds to its distinctiveness and makes it easy to recommend.… Read more
Domaine Couly-Dutheil, Chinon Blanc (Loire Valley, France) Les Chanteaux 2010
($25, Cynthia Hurley Imports): Cynthia Hurley is an “old-time” small importer whose name on a bottle is a guarantee of quality. Focusing exclusively on French wines, she relies on her judgment and palate, instead of point scores from critics, to find distinctive wines from small producers. … Read more
Domaine Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “La Coulée Automnale” 2009
($18, Cynthia Hurley Imports): 
La Coulée, one of the prime vineyards in Chinon, has multiple owners. To distinguish his from the rest, Couly-Dutheil, arguably Chinon’s top producer, labels this as “Automnale.” The 2009 vintage in the Loire, like the rest of France, was fabulous, producing ripe, yet balanced red wines, like this mid-weight one. … Read more
MacPhail Family Vineyards, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir Toulouse Vineyard 2009
($45): James MacPhail runs a small winery that focuses on Pinot Noir. He owns no vineyards, but that doesn’t prevent him from making top-notch wine. He doesn’t make Burgundy. He makes Pinot Noir that is a quintessential expression of California. In this one from Anderson Valley, a captivating perfume is followed by beautifully intertwined earthy and red fruit flavors. … Read more
Terrazas de los Andes, Mendoza (Argentina) Chardonnay Reserva 2010
($18, Moët Hennessey USA): Terrazas de los Andes, a subsidiary of Moët & Chandon, is dedicated to 
still wines. Vineyards in Argentina, such as the ones belonging to Terrazas de los Andes, are frequently planted at high altitude to take advantage of nocturnal cooling which preserves acidity in grapes and freshness in wines. … Read more
Domaine du Château de Chorey, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2009
($25, Becky Wasserman Selection): 
A vintage like 2009, bathed in perfect weather during the entire growing season and through harvest, was especially beneficial to the lesser appellations that in poorer years suffer from under-ripe grapes that translate into thin wines. That’s why in 2009 a low prestige category, such as Bourgogne Rouge, from a conscientious producer, like Château du Chorey, is a bargain-priced over-achiever delivering far more than you’d expect. … Read more
Beast, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Wallula Vineyard “Sphinx” Riesling 2010
($25): This tongue-in-cheek labeled wine by Buty Winery explains why Riesling is making a resurgence. Dry, mineraly and racy, it’s a joy to drink and easy to recommend. And with less than 13%-stated alcohol, it’s certainly a beauty. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2012… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Gewürztraminer 2010
($9): Delicate aromas of white flowers catch your attention, and lovely spice and vibrancy holds it. A subtle hint of sweetness reinforces the spiciness of the wine. It works well as an aperitif or with hard-to-match foods, such as roast pork.… Read more
Buty, Columbia Valley (Washington) Semillon Sauvignon Muscadelle 2009
($25): In this white Bordeaux blend, every variety seems to contribute without dominating. Muscadelle (8%) brings appealing and delicate floral notes, while the Semillon (65%) adds body and a seductive creamy waxiness. The Sauvignon Blanc gives the wine verve and bright acidity. … Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) White Riesling Late Harvest Reserve “Ethos” 2008
($35): Sweet wines, such as this one (sold in a 375 ml bottle) with 23% residual
sugar, need to be judged on their acidity, not their sweetness. Without adequate acidity, the wine will be cloying and syrupy. This one has fabulous enlivening acidity and verve that just amplifies the apricot-tinged flavors that explode on the palate. … Read more
Gloria Ferrer, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2008
($22): Gloria Ferrer, well known for delectable sparkling wines, has made a California Pinot Noir that emphasizes elegance over sheer power. I suspect their experience with using Pinot Noir in sparkling wine explains the finesse and relatively low–13.5% stated alcohol–in this lively wine. … Read more
Tapeña, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2010
($8, Freixenet USA): The Verdejo grape (not to be confused with the Verdelho grape) is the primary one used in Spain’s Rueda region, where it has achieved tremendous success. As a result, others are growing it elsewhere in Spain. Not entirely dry, this Verdejo has delicate peach undertones that make it a good choice with Asian food or as an aperitif. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “St. Andrews” 2006
($50, American Wine Distributors): Wakefield is best known for their stellar Rieslings. After tasting this Cabernet and the Wakefield Shiraz (also reviewed this week), I’m sure that these varieties will be giving Riesling a run for its money. St. Andrews is the name Wakefield uses for their top tier of wines and this Cabernet Sauvignon certainly deserves to be included. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Shiraz “St. Andrews” 2006
($50, American Wine Distributors): This is the kind of wine that justifies Australia’s reputation for Shiraz. Boisterous and plumy, yes, but that can be said of many Aussie Shiraz. Even with its 14.6% alcohol, it delivers so much more than lapel-grabbing-in-your-face fruitiness. … Read more
Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Dry Riesling “Red Slate” 2010
($14, Loosen Bros. USA): Happily, with Riesling surge’s in popularity in this country, we are seeing very high quality varietal wines–as opposed to vineyard designated ones–coming out of Germany, the place where Riesling excels. Germany always sent us great vibrant Riesling from specific sites, such as Piesporter Goldtröpfchen. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2009
($63): This Premier Cru is always one of Latour’s best reds from the Côte de Beaune. The house has substantial holdings in this some of the best parts of this vineyard that they purchased over 100 years ago. Those who complain Latour’s reds are diluted and not up to the quality of their white wines need to take another look. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2009
($66, Louis Latour, USA): Village wines from Gevrey-Chambertin can be among the most disappointing red Burgundies because some growers think they can get away bottling anything and selling it under that famous name. Fortunately, this is not one of them. Quite the contrary, the complexity and finesse suggest a premier cru. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Terres Brulées 2009
($48, Palm Bay International): The Terres Brulées is the name Colombo gives to the 20-year old vines planted near the winery. Vigorous and youthful, it delivers spice and liquorice-like flavors. It’s beautifully balanced, with no sharp edges. The tannins are polished, which mean you can enjoy it now with wintry fare.… Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Vallon de L’Aigle 2009
($88, Palm Bay International): This is Colombo’s top cuvée, from old vines sitting atop a ridge. The firmest and most mineraly of his wines, it has distinct peppery notes, which act like a condiment and enliven the wine. Big and concentrated, the tannins are firm, but fine. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) La Louvée 2009
($70, Palm Bay International): La Louvée (“she-wolf”) comes from 70-yr old Syrah vines planted on “only” a 30-degree slope. Organic matter covers the granite and gives the wine a slighter rounder sense than the Les Ruchots (also reviewed this week). Fruit flavors are more apparent with minerality in the background. … Read more
Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas (Rhône Valley, France) Les Ruchets 2009
($70, Palm Bay International): Colombo is one of the best producers of Cornas, an appellation in the 
northern Rhône which lacks the popularity of Côte Rôtie or Hermitage, but which like those, uses the Syrah grape. He makes a variety of Cornas from different vineyards that vary in exposure and vine age. … Read more
Añoro, Mendoza (Argentina) Chardonnay 2011
($22, Vine Connections): 
Argentina, best known for Malbec, takes advantage of high altitude vineyards to capture acidity in a warm climate. The ripeness in this Chardonnay comes through as tropical fruit flavors, while zingy acidity keeps it in balance. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2011… Read more
Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett Erdener Treppchen 2010
($20, Loosen Bros. USA): 
Greet your holiday party guests with a glass of this Riesling and they will be thrilled. The village of Erden, situated in the Middle Mosel, the most exalted portion of the river’s vineyards, produces beautifully structured and precise wines, such as this one from one of the Mosel’s leading producers, Dr.… Read more
Buty Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot/ Cabernet Franc 2009
($40): Caleb Foster, Buty’s winemaker and part owner, loves to blend wines. His Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blend (also reviewed this week) is masterful. In that same vein is this Merlot-Cabernet Franc mixture, a blend that is popular in St. Emilion and Pomerol on Bordeaux’s right-bank. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($25, Moët Hennessey USA): 
Cloudy Bay catapulted New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on the world’s wine map about 25 years ago. As a leading producer, some might think they could rest on their laurels. But they haven’t. Their latest release, the 2011, has the trademark vibrancy and zestiness of Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region, but also has mouth-filling texture and length that sets it apart. … Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay 2010
($15): Although not labeled “unoaked,” as is the current trend, brisk green apple notes suggest it might be. But discreet hints of toastiness demonstrate it’s not and offer a delicate complement. This bright and brisk wine, Chateau Ste. Michelle, “entry level” Chardonnay, is an excellent buy.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay “Indian Wells” 2009
($19): 
Chateau Ste. Michelle uses the Indian Wells moniker for their more upscale bottlings, which they describe on their website as “the lush and opulent New World style.” It is more lush and opulent than their very good regular Chardonnay (also reviewed this week), but by no means overdone. … Read more
Buty Winery, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Phinney Hill Vineyard “Columbia Rediviva” 2008
($50): Columbia Rediviva was the name of the ship that Captain Robert Gray sailed up the then unnamed river in 1792 searching for the ever elusive 
northwest passage. To recognize the importance of the river, Caleb Foster and Nina Buty Foster, owners of the winery, chose it for the name of one of their top wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Syrah blend. … Read more
Dr. Loosen, Mosel (Germany) Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese 2010
($26, Loosen Bros. USA): The absence of a grape name on the label means, by law, the wine is made from Riesling, Germany’s most revered grape. And this is a quintessential Riesling from the steep banks of the Mosel River. Vibrant and fruity, a hint of sweetness amplifies its mineral aspect and makes it ideal as a stand-alone aperitif or with spicy Asian fare. … Read more
Estancia, Central Coast (California) Merlot 2009
($12): Estancia manages to capture beautifully both the leafy earthy character of Merlot as well as its black fruit side. Black cherry-like acidity keeps it fresh and vibrant throughout the meal. The tannins are supple. It’s quite an amazing wine for the price.… Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2009
($22, Kobrand): 
Craggy Range specializes in making wines from grapes grown in a single vineyard to capture the uniqueness of place. This one, their Bordeaux blend of Merlot (80%), Cabernet Franc (12%) Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) and Malbec, is a terrific argument for their philosophy. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Vineyards 2009
($25): Rodney Strong was a pioneer in the Alexander Valley, showing how this part of Sonoma can make beautiful Cabernet. This rendition continues their streak with generous, but not overdone, plum-like flavors accented with attractive herbal notes. Suave tannins lend support without astringency.… Read more
BenMarco, Mendoza (Argentina) 2009
($20, Vine Connections): Argentina does produce red wine without using Malbec. And good ones at that. Here one of them. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) and equal amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this young and vigorous wine is filled with spice and black fruit flavors. … Read more