($12, Scott Street Portfolio): A subtle peppery component in this wine acts as an attractive counterpoint to the very ripe, plumy flavors characteristic of Aussie Shiraz. Another plus is an appealing freshness in the finish that balances the fruity ripeness. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007
Category Archives: Australia
Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004
($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Mad Fish, the second label of the well-regarded Howard Park Wines, consistently offers good values. This harmonious Shiraz combines the peppery with the plumy flavors that that grape delivers. Keeping with its Western Australian origins, it is not an in-your-face kind of wine. … Read more
Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006
($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Virtually bone dry, this impressive Riesling has a touch of earthy minerality complemented by a zing in the finish. It’s another good example of refreshing–and unique–Riesling from Western Australia. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2007… Read more
Aussies Could Conquer the Riesling World…Or Blow It
One of the paradoxes of the wine world is the discrepancy between wine writers’ and consumers’ love for Riesling. Wine writers love it. Every time I have dinner with a group of my wine writing colleagues, someone invariably orders Riesling, usually with unanimous agreement from others. … Read more
Regional Diversity in Australian Wine, Part 2
John Larchet, an importer of Australian wines, and Bob Harkey, a wine retailer, both expressed the same troubling idea about Australian wines–albeit in very different ways.
Larchet (whose company, The Australian Premium Wine Collection, represents small Australian producers) described a gathering ‘storm cloud’ associated with the vast volume of Australian wines being sold here.… Read more
Regional Diversity in Australian Wine
Every wine producer I met on my recent trip to Australia wanted to discuss regional diversity of Australian wines. They know that in order to grow, they need to expand beyond what they have already mastered: delivering wines that are simple, fruity, inexpensive, and easy-to-drink, with a cute critter on the label. … Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) “Grange” 2002
($250): The release of Penfolds’ Grange each year on May 1st, after 5 years of aging, is a much anticipated event in Australia. Peter Gago, the winemaker responsible for Grange, says the 2002 is like the 1990 and 1996, ‘it’s all about poise and balance.’ … Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 707” 2004
($88, Foster’s Wine Estates): Penfolds’ Bin 707, their best Cabernet, excels in 2004. The fruit comes from vineyards in Coonawarra and Barossa, including their famed Block 42, home to the world’s oldest Cabernet vines. According to Peter Gago, Penfolds’ head winemaker, the Barossa provides particularly attractive Cabernet in cooler years like 2004. … Read more
Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($18, Foster’s Wine Estates): Frequently known simply as Wynns’ Black Label in Australia, this is consistently one of that country’s great Cabernets. It’s track record for aging is matched only by a few of Penfolds’ legendary wines–Grange, St. Henri and Bin 707–though all of those ring up at considerably higher prices. … Read more
Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “John Riddoch” 2004
($60, Foster’s Wine Estates): Wynns’ best Cabernet, the John Riddoch bottling is made entirely from fruit grown on their vineyards in the heart of Coonawarra. It’s a barrel selection of their best Cabernet, according to Sue Hodder, Wynns’ senior winemaker. She’s not looking for the biggest style wine when she selects barrels, and will eliminate those with hard tannins because she is looking for parcels that will make an elegant, polished kind of wine. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004
($17, Brown Forman): In addition to Riesling, Clare Valley is known for producing fine, ripe, powerful Shiraz because of it’s warmer location. This one is deceptive because it has leathery and peppery flavors I usually associated with Shiraz grown in cooler climes. … Read more
Wakefield, South Australia (Australia) Riesling “Jaraman” 2005
($27, Brown Forman): Two-thirds of the fruit for this wine comes from Clare Valley and one third from the Eden Valley, but US labeling requirements prohibit dual appellations, so the wine is labeled simply South Australia. The Clare Valley produces more overt Rieslings, while Eden Valley Rieslings are known for their finesse and precision. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005
($17, Brown Forman): Wakefield has fashioned a vibrant, bone dry Riesling with long, limey flavors from grapes grown in South Australia’s Clare Valley, north of the Barossa. Despite its northern locale, which should make it too hot (remember north equals heat Down Under) for a delicate variety like Riesling, the diurnal temperature variation in the Clare produces riveting, lively Rieslings. … Read more
The Wishing Tree, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay “Unoaked” 2006
($10, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): I usually avoid unoaked Chardonnay because with rare exception — Chablis comes to mind — a little oak aging enhances the wines. But John Larchet, who has his own label, The Wishing Tree, in addition to importing Australian wine under The Australian Premium Wine Collection, suggested I try this one. … Read more
Hill of Content, Clare Valley / McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache Shiraz 2003
($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Despite being the minority of the blend — 20 percent — the weight of black fruit from Shiraz barrels through in this riper, more overt wine. There’s smokiness along with a taste of succulent sour cherries. … Read more
Pike’s, Clare Valley (South Australia) SMG “The Assemblage” 2003
($21, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): This blend of 56% Syrah, 27% Mourvedre and 17% Grenache is a dense and very ripe Châteauneuf-du-Pape-like wine. The elevation of the Clare Valley — its lowest point is 1,000 feet — accounts for dramatic day/night temperature fluctuations, which allows the grapes — and the wine — to maintain acidity. … Read more
Black Billy, Fleurieu Peninsula (South Australia) Pinot Gris 2006
($15, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): One of the members of the Hazelgrove family, a famous farming family, has re-established themselves in the wine business after the family sold the name. The lovely texture and viscosity of this wine makes it definitely a Pinot Gris, not a Pinot Grigio. … Read more
Fire Block, Watervale (Clare Valley, South Australia) Grenache “Old Vine” 2003
($19, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): It’s rare for a young wine to deliver mature flavors, but this 100% Grenache, aged in old oak barrels, does. It has an alluring combination of bright raspberries — characteristic of Clare Valley Grenache I’m told — spice and hints of caramel, which I usually associated with older, developed wines.… Read more
Grosset, Polish Hill (Clare Valley, South Australia) Riesling 2006
($33, Australian Premium Wine Collection): Wow. Anyone who doesn’t yet realize that Australia is capable of producing great Rieslings, among the best in the world, needs to taste this wine. Bright, vibrant and steely, this focused wine almost vibrates. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2007… Read more
Pike & Joyce, Lenswood (Adelaide Hills, South Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($20, Australian Premium Wine Collection): If there were such a thing as a Meyer lime, this is how it would taste. Floral and limey, but not aggressive or grassy, it develops a lovely minerality with air that is reminiscent of the best wines from Sancerre. … Read more
Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2006
($19, Moet Hennessy USA): The cooling effects of the Indian and Southern Oceans (the latter of which laps at the shores of Antarctica) influence the wines from Western Australia. The more temperate climate–compared to parts of South Australia–means the grapes rarely get overripe and hence, the wines show restraint and balance. … Read more
Green Point, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Chardonnay Reserve 2004
($30, Moet Hennessy USA): In the mid-1980s, Moët & Chandon, the world largest Champagne producer, established their outpost in Australia 30 miles east of Melbourne in the Yarra Valley in the state of Victoria. In addition to Australian sparkling wines, Moët makes stylish still wines under the Green Point label. … Read more
Grant Burge, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Barossa Vines” 2004
($12, Wilson Daniels): Despite all its ripeness and intensity, this big Barossa Shiraz is not ‘over the top.’ The supple combination of spice and black cherry flavors would make a nice match with short ribs now that winter is here. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006… Read more
Fox Creek, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Grenache 2004
($20, Vineyard Brands): This blend of 2/3rds Shiraz and 1/3 Grenache is big and bold, but there’s surprising elegance in this 14.5% alcohol wine. Not for the faint of heart, it would be a good choice for a hearty winter casserole.… Read more
Philip Shaw, Orange (South Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc “No. 19” 2005
($22, Cumulus Wines): Philip Shaw, one of Australia’s and the world’s great winemakers, has finally set off on his own. After being winemaker at Lindemans, Rosemount and Southcorp, he has finally established his own winery in Orange. I assumed his wines would be good, but I never expected this Sauvignon Blanc to have such a stunning combination of subtle creaminess and an invigorating bite.… Read more
Rocky Gully, Frankland (Great Southern Region, Western Australia) Dry Riesling 2005
($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): I particularly love the Rieslings from Western Australia because they are unique. Neither flowery in the Germanic tradition nor powerful in the Alsace style, they have a lacey feel about them with a clean citric edge.… Read more
Rutherglen Estates, Rutherglen (Victoria, Australia) “The Alliance” 2005
($14, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Here is my vote for the best Rhône-style white wine produced outside of France. And it will give most Rhone Valley white wines a run for their money. Rutherglen’s Alliance, a marvelous blend of Marsanne and Viognier, has the hint of apricots often found in Rhone whites, but with a lightness that is often lacking in those wines.… Read more
Joseph, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot “Moda” 2002
($48, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Taking a cue from producers of Amarone (Moda refers to Moda Amarone), Joe Grilli, winemaker at Joseph, dries a small proportion of the grapes on straw mats before fermentation to add complexity to the finished wine.… Read more
Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
($16, PWG Vintners): Known simply as Wynns Black Label in Australia, their Cabernet Sauvignon delivers reliably every year. The 2002, with its herbal and mint nuances combined with attractive fleshiness, is no exception. Never, jammy or overblown, their Cabernet often develops beautifully with bottle aging as demonstrated by stellar examples from the 1970s, which are still delicious today.… Read more
Houghton, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay-Verdelho 2005
($14, Houghton Wines): Houghton uses an alluring blend of two-thirds Chardonnay and one-third Verdelho to capture the virtues of each variety. The Verdelho adds an intriguing floral character while the Chardonnay provides stuffing–but, in the Western Australian tradition–without heaviness. A tangy finish keeps the wine interesting throughout a meal.… Read more
Australia’s western frontier: Maverick vintners make sophisticated, well-priced wines on the other side of the Outback
Everyone knows about Australia’s inexpensive, fruit-driven, mass-produced wines — think Yellow Tail, the largest-selling wine brand in U.S. food stores by dollar volume, according to ACNielsen.
But there is a wine-producing part of the country that shatters just about every aspect of that image.… Read more
Salitage, Pemberton (Western Australia) Shiraz “Treehouse” 2003
($15, Wines West): The Treehouse label is used for Solitage wines made from purchased fruit, usually from a single vineyard, within the Pemberton region. A nice balance of peppery and plumy flavors and a lovely finish makes this Shiraz a steal at the price.… Read more
Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Great Southern, Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Kinnaird Vineyard Black Label 2001
($45, multiple distributors): A single vineyard wine from the Mount Barker region of the Great Southern, this is a very appealing, cocoa-infused, meaty and lush style of Shiraz that is remarkably silky and long. Nicely evolved, it’s lovely to drink now.… Read more
Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Great Southern, Western Australia, Australia) Shiraz Kinnaird Vineyard Black Label 2003
($45, multiple distributors): Less meaty than the 2001, presumably because it is younger and bottled under screw cap, it still has a hint of that lovely gamy quality. It’s fresh, lush and juicy with a remarkable silkiness and elegance for its power.… Read more
Evans and Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia) “Classic Red” 2003
($14, Scott Street Portfolio): A blend of 2/3 Shiraz and 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon, this Classic Red is a great value. Filled with spice and plums, it is surprisingly complex for the price. Its suppleness is part of the charm. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Voyager, Margaret River (Western Australia) 2004
($18, Serge Doré Selections, Ltd.): Voyager blended in a little Viognier into this bottling, which likely explains its lovely floral quality. A spicy and enticing black pepper component, along with great length and finesse, reinforces its similarity to wines from the Northern Rhône.… Read more
Evans and Tate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2003
($18, Scott Street Portfolio): Another great value from Evans and Tate, this Shiraz has meaty overtones along with pepper and plum-like flavors. A savory wine, it holds its 14.5% alcohol effortlessly. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz White Label 2004
($13, Ravensvale Group): An atypical Australian Shiraz, the charm of this lovely wine lies in the interplay of understated fruit flavors with gamy, earthy notes. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz White Label 2003
($13, Partners Wine Marketing): Sourced from Ferngrove’s estate vineyards, this Shiraz delivers rich, ripe, plumy flavors without overwhelming the attractive gamy notes. A long and lovely wine at a wonderful price. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Ferngrove, Frankland River (Western Australia) “The Sterling” 2004
($29, Partners Wine Marketing): A blend of two-thirds Shiraz and one-third Cabernet, Ferngrove’s flagship wine has a fabulous mix of notes including chocolate, smoke and tobacco. It’s a big wine, yet balanced, with great finesse. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz/Viognier Black Label 2004
($21, Ravensvale Group): Another restrained style of Shiraz with long, layered flavors that linger. Although the blend includes only two percent Viognier, that little dash provides real lift and an added layer of finesse. 93 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Alkoomi, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz “Jarrah” 2002
($38, Ravensvale Group): Alkoomi’s top-of-the-line Shiraz takes its name from a local hardwood tree. It has a great combination of succulent fruit and meaty flavors, which are balanced rather than not overdone. 95 Michael Apstein Apr 11, 2006
Capel Vale, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz “Sheldrake” 2002
($15, multiple distributors): Two thirds of the fruit comes from Pemberton, which gives this a lovely black pepper character, while the third that comes from the warmer Geographe subregion supplies ripeness and richness. The overall effect is a lovely balance of plums and pepper.… Read more
Western Australia: A Different Style of Shiraz
Shiraz (aka Syrah) is now firmly in place as Australia’s most popular grape–and wine. But it wasn’t always that way. From the mid-1970s to the mid-1980s, plantings of Shiraz went down by half (to about 12,500 acres) because the Australian government paid growers to pull out vines as consumption of red table wine fell from fashion.… Read more
Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($26, Artemis Wines International): The usual–for Margaret River–delightful combination of ripe fruit and herbs buttressed by excellent structure marks this very nice wine. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Mangan” 2004
($42, Young’s Market): A fascinating blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Petit Verdot, this purple, inky wine looks huge, but actually is more like an intense, juicy Dolcetto with fine tannins and great character. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot “Adams Road” 2003
($15, Negociants USA): Rich and supple, with some herbal elements, this wine reflects the interplay of sweet ripe fruit and slightly savory elements. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Leston Vineyard 2003
($20, Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): Lovely cassis fruit, hints of chocolate and fine tannins combine to make this a juicy, fleshy wine. A great $20 value! 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Deep Woods Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($25, Outback Red Imports): The relatively warm location of this estate probably explains the wine’s abundant cassis character and its more subtle herbal elements. Length and supple, ripe tannins make it an engaging wine even at this young age. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Deep Woods Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2004
($35, Outback Red Imports): Owner Peter Fogarty says that this is his best wine. Made entirely from their estate-grown fruit, the Merlot component imparts an attractive herbal character that complements the overall juicy impression. It has an impressive, silky texture. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006