Category Archives: Reviews

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2008

($24):  Savennières, a tiny appellation on the Loire River, makes unique dry and racy wines from Chenin Blanc, a grape better known for sweet wines.  Baumard is one of the appellation’s leading producers.  Baumard’s 2008, bottled under screw cap to preserve freshness, has an alluring combination of honey-like, but not sweet, richness and savory, sharp, che 91 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012Read more

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2008

($38):  As good as Baumard’s regular bottling of Savennières is, this one, from a particularly well-sited vineyard, is even better. With more complexity, the interplay of richness and savory herbal notes in the Clos du Papillon creates even more intrigue.  Despite the increased concentration, this maintains impeccable balance and finesse.… Read more

Telmo Rodriguez, Valdeorras (Spain) Mencia “Gaba do Xil” 2010

($18):  Valdeorras, the valley of gold, named because the Romans discovered the metal there, is nestled in the northwestern part of Spain.  The Mencia grape, usually associated with Bierzo, the adjacent DO, also does well in the region.  The beauty of wine made from Mencia, like this one, is the earthy, savory (non-fruit) nuances it delivers along with the charming combination of red fruit flavors. … Read more

Cave de Tain, St. Joseph Rouge (Rhône Valley, France) “Esprit de Granite” 2009

($22, Cognac One):  The appellation of St. Joseph lies on the right (West) bank of the Rhône, facing east and its more famous neighbor, Hermitage.  Though the granite soil is similar to that of Hermitage and the grape (Syrah) is the same, the wines are lighter and earlier maturing because the east-facing exposure means less sunlight–and ripeness–during the harvest season. … Read more

Cave de Tain, Saint-Péray (Rhône Valley, France) “Fleur de Roc” 2009

($20, Cognac One):  Saint-Péray, a tiny appellation in the Rhône, produces only white or sparkling wine.  Cave de Tain is the local, highly regarded cooperative there.  Like many Rhône white wines, this one delivers fleshy yellow fruit flavors.  But unlike many white Rhônes, it also has lovely brightness and vivacity to balance the usual waxy texture. … Read more

Reviews: FRANCE – Burgundy

 

Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2006 ($96, VOS Selections): This premier cru comes across a little coarser than his Les Cazetiers and shows Burgundy’s earthier side.  Although not as refined, it conveys a charming rusticity.  It would be a good choice for more robust fare.… Read more

Alain Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) “Mes Favorites” Vieilles Vignes 2009

($100, Frederick Wildman):  Here’s an example of how the French appellation system breaks down.  This village wine delivers more elegance and complexity than many producers’ wines from premier cru vineyards.  For this wine, Burguet combines grapes from old vines located in various parcels that lie on the slope between the village and the road. … Read more

Potel-Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009

($16, Frederick Wildman):  Stéphane Aviron describes his 2009 Beaujolais as “sunny wines” because of the warmth of the vintage.  Anyone who thinks that all Beaujolais is just tutti-fruity and jammy should try his wines.  Spiced with a touch of minerality, this 2009 Beaujolais Villages harbors not a hint of overt grapey flavors. … Read more

Domaine Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Petits Cazetiers 2009

($90, Frederick Wildman):  Les Petits Cazetiers is adjacent to Les Cazetiers, its famous neighbor that many producers believe is the village’s best premier cru vineyard.  But there’s nothing small about this wine.  It’s quintessential Burgundy delivering flavor without heaviness.  Leathery and earthy notes peek out from a rich, but not overbearing, assortment of red and black fruit flavors. … Read more

Numanthia, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Termanthia 2007

($225, Moët Hennessey USA):  Wines trying to achieve “greatness” by relying on power alone fail because they lack elegance.  Power will get a wine noticed, but it is not the component that determines the wine’s quality.  Numanthia’s Termanthia, their top of the line wine made from vines that are over 100 years old, succeeds because it delivers great concentration while retaining elegance.… Read more

Cheval des Andes, Mendoza (Argentina) 2007

($73, Moët Hennessey USA):  The result of a joint project between Chateau Cheval Blanc in St. Emilion and Argentina’s Terrazas de los Andes, the Cheval des Andes erases any idea that Argentina cannot produce great wines.  The winemaking team led by Nicolas Audebert has put together a marvelous combination of dark fruit and mineral-like flavors all wrapped in velvety-like tannins. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Gewurztraminer 2010

($9):  What’s so remarkable about Château Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest producer, is their ability to make terrific inexpensive as well as stunning high-end wines.  This bargain-priced Gewürztraminer delivers spiced fruit-flavors (gewürz means spicy), cutting citrus acidity and a whiff of sweetness that amplifies the wine’s spicy side. … Read more

Numanthia, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Termes” 2008

($30, Moët Hennessey USA):  Toro, like so many other Spanish appellations, is undergoing a renaissance led, in no small measure, by Numanthia.  (The winery takes its name from the nearby town of Numancia).  They make three wines, Termanthia, Numanthia (which leads to the perseverating Numanthia’s Numanthia) and this one, Termes, distinguished chiefly by the age of the vines. … Read more

Cape Mentelle, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011

($17, Moët Hennessey USA):  I’m always surprised that the SBS (as they’re known in Australia) wines aren’t as popular here as they are down under.  Cape Mentelle, one of Western Australia’s leading producers, made a particularly alluring one in 2011.  Its creamy luxurious side–Semillon speaking–is offset and balanced by a pleasant tang from the Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more