Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Lumeggio di Rosso” 2019

($18, Montcalm Wine Importers):  This is a differently styled Montepulciano from Illuminati’s Riparossso, highlighting the more herbal and savory side of that grape.  Despite similar weight and concentration, it’s a more aromatic and energetic wine, which makes it a fine choice for current consumption with a sausage-infused tomato sauce for pasta.Read more

Vigna Petrussa, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2019

($30):  The leadership of this family-owned winery is unique.  Hilde Petrussa, the current director, is the third generation of female directors.  This Friulano is equally unique.  It has good weight, stone fruit character, all supported and balanced by excellent acidity.  A ying and yang of a subtle creamy richness and hint of bitterness in the finish just makes it just that much more appealing.Read more

Celli, Bertinaro Romagna DOC (Emilia Romagna) Sangiovese Riserva, “Bron & Rusèval” 2017

($28):  Since Sangiovese, a grape associated with Tuscany, is the most widely planted grape in Italy, it is not surprising to find excellent wines made from it outside of that region.  Here’s one such example from nearby Romagna, which Mauro Sirri, the owner of Celli, is quick to identify as distinct from Emilia: “They’re known for Lambrusco; we’re known for dry wines.” Read more

David Paige Wines, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2018

($29):  The cooler Oregon climate likely explains why most Chardonnays from there are typically more understated than most California renditions of Chardonnay.  Finesse-filled and restrained, but certainly not lacking a presence, the 2018 David Paige Chardonnay fits that profile.  A real plus is its below-$30 price tag, unusual for a Chardonnay of this stature. Read more

Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2019

($30):  This is the third consecutive year when Naumes Family Vineyard has hit the mark with Viognier, a notoriously difficult grape to tame.  I could easily cut and paste my reviews of their 2017 and 2018 for this one.  But, frankly, it is worth repeating because although balance is always key in wines, it is especially important with Viognier, whose window of ripeness is narrow. Read more

Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” (Grey Label) 2020

($25, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Lunae Bosoni, one of Liguria’s top producers, consistently makes a stunning line up of Vermentino wines.  The 2020 maintains that tradition.  Riper than usual in this vintage, this nevertheless has very energetic acidity holds everything together.  An intriguing and uplifting saline touch keeps you interested and invites another sip. Read more

Sosie, Moon Mountain District (Sonoma County, California) Cavedale Vineyard Red Blend 2017

($45):  Despite its 14.5 percent stated-alcohol, Sosie (pronounced so-zee) is fresh and lively, not overdone at all.  Paradoxically, there’s almost a lovely austere character to it.  Firm, not hard, tannins frame its racy red fruit flavors.  Mineral-like notes — you can almost taste the volcanic soil — and a pleasing hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its allure. Read more

Miguel Torres, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Cordillera de los Andes” Reserva Especial 2017

($22, Miguel Torres USA):  Miguel Torres has vineyards throughout Chile to match grapes with areas particularly well suited to them.  The grapes for this one come from the Maipo Valley, an area renown for top Cabernet Sauvignon.   Very aromatic, this Cabernet has good weight and delivers a mix of dark black fruit interspersed with spicy savory notes. Read more

Sullivan Rutherford Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Coeur de Vigne” 2017

($90):  Though Coeur de Vigne might suggest highly selected grapes and an over-extracted precious wine, this one is not.  Though more immediately appealing — slightly softer and rounder — than their Estate Bottling (previously reviewed), it displays the classic savory-ripe dark fruit mixture for which top Napa Valley Cabernet is known. Read more