($19): 
Quivira makes at least four Sauvignon Blancs in various styles. This one shows a straightforward, electricity-filled style that will awaken any palate. There is no hiding the vibrancy and piercing nature behind a patina or oak, or an attempt at mellowing it with Semillon. … Read more
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Quivira Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Fig Tree Vineyard 2021
($30): 
Quivira’s Sauvignon Blanc from their Fig Tree Vineyard shows that site and blend combines to make a far more complex wine. The vineyard sits at the confluence of the Wine Creek — I wonder who gave it that name — and Dry Creek, which, according to their website, imparts freshness because of the rocky alluvial soil. … Read more
Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2014
($18, Osborne): 
Bodegas Montecillo, one of Rioja’s most prominent producers, consistently offers great value. Take this Reserva for example. A blend of Tempranillo (90 percent), Garnacha (8 percent) and Mazuelo, it spends two years aging in oak barrels followed by another 18 months in the bottle before release, which explains why the 2014 is the current release. … Read more
Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2011
($22, Osborne): 
Where else but Spain, and particularly Rioja, can you find the glories of a wine with a decade of age that you can afford to buy and enjoy on a regular basis? Properly aged wine has an alluring ying/yang of fruit and non-fruit character enrobed by a silky suaveness that is captivating. … Read more
Cantine Garrone, Vino Rosso (Piedmont, Italy) “Munaloss” 2020
($17): 
Garrone, a small, even tiny, co-operative at the foot of the Alps in the northernmost part of Piedmont, is unusual. The Garrone family works about 7.5 acres of vines themselves and has recruited 50 other growers whose holdings total about 25 acres. … Read more
Cantine Garrone, Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Prünent” 2019
($41): 
One advantage of a co-operative, like Cantine Garrone, is that they have access to old vines. Many of the members of the co-op have small plots that have been in their families for generations. These old-vine plots are too small to commercialize individually, so the farmers send their grapes to the co-op. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) 2020
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Michele Chiarlo, an excellent Piedmont producer known for their Barolo, also makes wine from Barbera, this one and upper level one, labeled La Court, from the Nizza DOCG, which sells for about twice the price (and, I might add, is worth it). … Read more
Fattoria Selvapiana, Chianti Rùfina Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Bucerchiale 2015
($48, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
Chianti Rùfina, along with Chianti Classico, is the best subzone of the greater Chianti denomination. Selvapiana is one of Rùfina’s top producers and Vigneto Bucerchiale is their top wine. So, this wine is a “no-brainer,” especially since it has seven years under its belt and has just hit its drinkable window. … Read more
Cantina di Tortona, Colli Tortonesi Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Timorasso “Piccolo Derthona” 2020
($24, Matchvino): 
Though I reviewed this wine in July 2021, I just enjoyed it again with dinner and felt consumers should know about it. The low-yielding Timorasso grape was popular in the Colli Tortonesi DOC in the pre-phylloxera era but was replaced by the more productive Cortese when growers replanted. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot’s Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques: A Study in Terroir Spanning Three Decades
Rocca delle Macìe, Maremma Toscana DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Campo Maccione” 2021
($16, Taub Family Selections): 
To capture the crisp clean character of this wine, Rocca delle Macìe harvests the grapes early in the morning, when it is cool. Then, they are kept on dry ice until they reach the winery where a cold fermentation occurs in stainless tanks. … Read more
Sylvain Langoureau, St. Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2020
($53, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Sylvain Langoureau is one of those excellent producers who has not yet achieved cult status, which is good news for savvy consumers because his wines remain undervalued. Combine his talents with a fantastic vintage for whites and voilà, you have a stunning white wine. … Read more
Autréau de Champillon, Champagne (France) Premier Cru Extra-Brut NV
($46, Baron Francois): 
Though Chardonnay comprises only about 20% of this blend — the reminder is equal parts of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier — the finesse imparted by that grape comes through. It is a masterful blend because the red grapes don’t dominate, they just add a touch of power. … Read more
Domaine de L’Églantière, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2021
($27): 
Domaine de L’Églantière is one of two estates owned by Jean Durup Père et Fils, one of the top producers in Chablis. (Château de Maligny is the other.) You often will see both the name of the estate and Durup’s name on the label. … Read more
Château de Fleys, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2020
($22): 
Its softer style makes this a wonderful introduction to Chablis for those who have yet to discover the magnificent wines of this appellation. Fruitier and less mineraly than many Chablis, it will appeal to those who may be turned off by the prominent stony edginess many Chablis. … Read more
Pernot Belicard, Bourgogne Côte-d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2020
($34, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
The Pernot name is synonymous with great white Burgundy largely due to Domaine Paul Pernot in Puligny-Montrachet. But this being Burgundy, there are many estates with similar, or at least, overlapping names due to marriage and the French laws of inheritance. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Cras 2020
($50, Louis Latour, USA): 
Though at least 85 percent of wine from Beaune is red, a small amount of white come from that appellation. Latour’s white Aux Cras is one of the best. And because white Beaune lacks the cachet of the big three, Meursault, Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet, the wines are less expensive. … Read more
Domaine Trapet, Alsace (France) Riesling “R.Q.W.R.” 2018
($27): 
My first introduction to Trapet, years ago, was with their stunning Burgundies. Then I discovered they also make wines in Alsace. Unsurprisingly, given their finesse-filled Burgundies, their wines from Alsace, made from organic and biodynamically farmed grapes, show grace and elegant as well. … Read more
Simi Winery , Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2020
($20): 
Simi, founded in 1876, is one of California’s oldest wineries. Still located in Sonoma, where Giuseppe and Pietro Simi first made their wines, Simi makes a range of Chardonnay. This one, a blend from various sites within Sonoma County, delivers great value for the price. … Read more
Pasqua, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry 2020
($18, Pasqua USA): 
Though Prosecco Rosé might be a brilliant marketing tool, combining too hot categories of wine, in reality it is an official Italian DOC. To qualify, the wines must be vintage dated and contain Pinot Noir, both of which will push up the price. … Read more
Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire 2019
($25): 
Simple advice: Buy whatever wines from Jean-Marc Brocard your budget allows. A leader in organic and biodynamic viticulture, Jean-Marc Brocard makes fabulous Chablis, from the “simple” village ones to the Grand Crus. His Sainte Claire bottling is a step up from his generic village Chablis and always over delivers for the price. … Read more
Changes in Chianti: A Boon or TMI?
ou’d think that a region like Chianti, with world-famous name recognition, would just adopt the motto, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Not so. Changes today abound in the area, specifically the sub-regions of Chianti Classico and Chianti Rùfina, that might well lift the wines to new quality levels.
… Read more Hillick & Hobbs, Seneca Lake (Finger Lakes, New York) Dry Riesling Estate Vineyard 2019
($35): 
Paul Hobbs, who has made wines around the world, has chosen the Finger Lakes for his Riesling. He and his younger brother, David, purchased a 78-acre piece of land on Lake Seneca in 2013. Developed from scratch, they have now planted 21 acres of it will Riesling. … Read more
Hillick & Hobbs, Seneca Lake (Finger Lakes, New York) Dry Riesling Estate Vineyard 2020
($35): 
As one of California’s leading winemakers, Paul Hobbs needs no introduction. The Finger Lakes should be thrilled to have him making wine there because his wines, at least based on these first two vintages, will bring widespread acclaim to the area. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($25, Volio Imports): 
What a difference a few hills and a little elevation makes. Year in and year out, Cecchi’s Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Reserva is one of my favorites. The 2018 is no exception. A blend of Sangiovese (95%) and Colorino, there are no international influences of Cabernet, Merlot, or oak-aging. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($48, Volio Imports): 
Gran Selezione is a new category of Chianti Classico that sits above Reserva, at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. Without getting into the weeds regarding the regulations for Gran Selezione, suffice it to say it should be the producer’s best Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Ribaldoni” 2018
($15, Volio Imports): 
The 2018 Ribaldoni Chianti Classico comes from Villa Rosa’s youngest vines. Lighter than the similarly priced Primocolle from Villa Cerna, it displays the same seamless balance of bright juicy fruit, spice, and good depth. Not overdone, it is lively and direct, with just the right tannic structure, exactly what you would expect from Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Primocolle 2019
($15, Volio Imports): 
The Cecchi family, one of the top producers in Tuscany, have two separate and distinct estates in Chianti Classico, Villa Cerna and Villa Rosa. Unsurprisingly, the wines from the two estates are very different because of the diversity of soil, climate, exposure — in sum, the terroir — even over a short distance. … Read more
Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2020
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
I taste at Domaine Bart every year because they are one of the top producers in Marsannay, the northern-most village of the Côte de Nuits. Wines from Marsannay remain under consumers’ radar, in part, because the village has no vineyards designated as premier cru, yet. … Read more
Landmark Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay “Overlook” 2020
($21): 
Landmark Vineyards, founded in 1974, is another “old timer” in Sonoma County winemaking. Focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, they make consistently good examples of both. Take this Chardonnay for example. Not overblown, it still has plenty of richness. Good acidity gives it life and balances the moderate oaky richness. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2021
($20): 
Dry Creek Vineyard, founded by David Stare in 1972, is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. Not a “cult” producer, Dry Creek has turned out incredibly consistently good and well-priced wines over those five decades. Their 2021 Sauvignon Blanc is just another example. … Read more
Famille Bouey, Bordeaux (France) “Maison Blanche” 2020
($17, Quintessential Wines): 
This is a perfect example of why place matters. Here is the same blend of Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon from the same vintage made by the same producer as Bouey’s Oh La Vache. The only difference is the location of the grapes. … Read more
Famille Bouey, Bordeaux (France) “Les Parcelles No 8” 2020
($20, Quintessential Wines): 
This third offering from Famille Bouey shows what happens when you substitute Cabernet Franc for Cabernet Sauvignon. The blend is still Merlot-heavy (80%), but Cabernet Franc replaces its brother. I assume the name, Les Parcelles No 8, refers to particular plots where Cabernet Franc and Merlot do especially well. … Read more
Famille Bouey, IGP Atlantique (France) “Oh La Vache” 2020
($13, Quintessential Wines): 
The geographic designation, “IGP Atlantique” means the grapes were grown in the vast area anywhere in the southwest of France from Bordeaux to Cognac. The Merlot (85%) in this blend brings a bright, juicy aspect, while the Cabernet Sauvignon provides just the right amount of structure. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2020
($16): 
The range of Iris Vineyards’ wines I’ve tasted recently have been so noteworthy for quality and price, I would be tempted to buy future offerings without having tasted them beforehand. Take this 2020 Pinot Gris. It is simply marvelous, with subtle hint of pears and stone fruit-like flavors perfectly balanced by zesty energy. … Read more
Youngberg Hill Vineyards, McMinnville (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Bailey Family” 2018
($85): 
The first sip of this tightly-wound Chardonnay is unimpressive. But don’t be put off by that, because it blossoms to reveal its grandeur. Despite techniques that should result in fatness, such as barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation, and barrel aging, this Chardonnay is sleek and racy. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2020
($24): 
I tasted and was enthralled by this Pinot Noir before I knew its price. After I saw the price, my enthusiasm exploded. It is rare to find a Pinot Noir with this kind of charm and subtlety for less than 25 bucks. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Areté” 2018
($35): 
The wine is great, really superb. The heavy bottle stinks. Iris trumpets sustainable farming practices on their website, but resorts to environmentally unhealthy heavy bottles. I’ll get off my soap box now because I review wines, not environmental practices, and this one is worth raving about. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Oregon (United States) “House Call” 2019
($20): 
Though not apparent from the label, Iris’ 2019 House Call is a Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Franc (50%), Malbec (32%) and Merlot. Since Oregon’s signature red is Pinot Noir, it is odd to think of a Bordeaux blend coming from there. … Read more
Landmark Vineyards, California (United States) Pinot Noir “Overlook” 2019
($27): 
Landmark Vineyards bottles a variety of Pinot Noir wines. This one, a blend of grapes from Monterey, Santa Barbara and Sonoma Counties, is clearly fruit-focused and a bit plummy, though not one-dimensional. Spice adds balance to this round and nicely textured Pinot Noir that finishes with a subtle sweetness.… Read more
Poema, Cava (Penedès, Spain) “Pura” Brut NV
($15, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Blended from basically equal parts of the traditional grapes used for Cava, Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada, this sparkler is friendly in character. Its mid-weight — 11.5 percent alcohol — character and its fruity profile makes it a lovely wine to use as an aperitif on hot and humid summer evenings. … Read more
Bisci, Verdicchio di Matelica (Marche, Italy) 2020
($21): 
Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller and lesser known region for this variety by comparison to Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, is landlocked, unlike its more famous sibling. Despite its location, paradoxically, its wines have a more marine influence because this valley in the Apennine mountains was underwater in ancient times. … Read more
Valdo, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut “Numero 10” 2019
($30, Taub Family Selections): 
Made using the Metodo Classico (classic method, a.k.a. Champagne method), this Prosecco is, like few — if any — others. With the classic method, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, a labor-intensive and expensive proposition. But the results are worth it because the wine develops additional complexity from the yeast and aging. … Read more
Red Wines of Provence and Notable Rosés
Rosé naturally comes to mind when thinking of the wines from Provence. But I’m here to tell you that at least one appellation in the region, Les Baux de Provence, makes terrific reds. They also make excellent rosés. Yes, you read that correctly. … Read more
Vietti, Roero Arneis DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2021
($24, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
Much of the acclaim for the wines of Piedmont goes to their reds, which certainly deserve it. But let’s not forget about the whites from Roero made from the Arneis grape. Arneis, in the local dialect means “little rascal,” because it is difficult to grow. … Read more
Cordero di Montezemolo, Langhe Arnesi DOC (Piedmont, Italy) 2020
($21): 
Though Arneis from the DOC Langhe may be less prestigious than Arneis from the DOCG Roero, the wines can be very good, and well-priced, especially from a top producer, such as Cordero di Montezemolo. Take this one, for example. Refreshing and cutting, this chiseled Arneis has good depth and an appealing saline-like minerality. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbaresco Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Cascina Bordino 2016
($55): 
Like Garassino, the Cascina Bordino vineyard is in the Treiso portion of the Barbaresco DOCG. As much as I liked Carretta’s 2017 Garassino, the stature of the vintage stands out in this 2016 Riserva. It delivers richness and depth — more power — without losing any elegance. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbaresco (Piedmont, Italy) Garassino 2017
($35): 
The 2017 vintage in Piedmont has the potential to be overlooked because of all the justifiable praise for the 2016 vintage there. Don’t overlook this engaging Barbaresco from the Garassino vineyard located in Treiso. Wines from vineyards in this northwestern part of Treiso tend toward elegance rather than power. … Read more
Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) “Acte II” Blanc 2020
($50): 
André Lurton, a master of white Bordeaux, saved this legendary estate (it was awarded Grand Cru Classé Graves in 1959) from extinction in the early 1970s when he purchased a portion of it. He subsequently acquired the rest of it, rejuvenated the vines and the cellar, and, as they say, the rest is history. … Read more
Château Couhins-Lurton, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) Blanc 2020
($60): 
This wine shows the majesty of white wines from Pessac-Léognan. You would never suspect it is made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc because the focus is not on fruitiness, but rather on hard to describe flavors of wet earth and minerals. … Read more