($28): Yes, New Zealand makes distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. As those late-night television ads proclaim, “but wait, there’s more.” And indeed, New Zealand produces more than Sauvignon Blanc, including Syrah, as exemplified by this one. Hawke’s Bay lies on the east coast of the north island and is well suited for reds, such as Syrah and the Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. … Read more
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Clos Apalta, Apalta (Colchagua Valley, Chile) 2019
($146, Winebow): Clos Apalta has become one of Chile’s most acclaimed red wines, and deservedly so. The 2019 certainly merits that accolade. Despite a 15 percent stated alcohol, the 2019 Clos Apalta is balanced and suave. Intense and rich, yes, but not flamboyant or over-the-top. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Eleanor” Estate Red Wine 2020
($68): This harmonious red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (64%), Merlot (17%) Malbec (17%) and Cabernet Franc, speaks to the potential of Walla Walla Valley. Ripe black and red fruit notes dance on the palate effortlessly without a trace of heat or heaviness. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo alla Sughera” 2019
($89): With an unusual blend of roughly 70 percent Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, Campo alla Sughera’s Super Tuscan is remarkably well-balanced. The unnecessarily heavy bottle predicts the weight of this 14.5 percent stated alcohol wine. That said, it retains suaveness and poise. … Read more
Tenuta Luce, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Lucente” 2020
($25, Vintus Wines): The stunning 2020 Lucente could be the red wine buy of the summer. This Merlot Sangiovese blend delivers a marvelous combination of black fruit and dark minerals wrapped in a suave, silky texture. Black fruit character is evident, but this is not a fruity wine. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Arnione” 2019
($78): Arnione, a blend of roughly 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, is their Bolgheri flagship. As much as I liked their Adèo, Arnione is just, well, a much better wine. Here, minerals balance the lush black fruit and take center stage. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Adèo” 2021
($37): Founded in 1998 by the German Knauf family, Campo alla Sughera has become an estate to watch in Bolgheri. Their ravishing reds represent a variation on Bordeaux blends. Adèo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, delivers bright and juicy red cherry notes supported by mild tannins. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2021
($25): Iris Vineyards draws on three AVAs from the Willamette, Eola Hills, Ribbon Ridge, and Yamhill-Carlton, for this crunchy red fruited Pinot Noir. Alluring smokey nuances, thankfully not from wildfires, adds a counterpoint to the crisp raspberry-like fruit in this mid-weight, 13.7 percent stated alcohol, Pinot Noir. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “House Call” Red Blend 2020
($20): This lively and juicy fruit focused blend of equal parts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, rounded out with Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, displays an array of black and red fruits supported by mild tannins and bright acidity. Weighing in under 14 percent stated alcohol, it’s not a heavy wine, rather a terrific choice for summer BBQ. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Bric Quercia 2019
($19): Tenuta Carretta’s Barbera d’Alba is a well-price robust red that’s perfect for hearty grilled meat this summer. Supple tannins allow the immediate enjoyment of its juicy and ripe (15 percent stated alcohol) black fruit. Barbera’s inherent acidity keeps this racy red lively and in balance. … Read more
Marchesi Alfieri, Barbara d’Asti Superiore DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Alfiera” 2020
($32): Wines made from Barbera are all over the map regarding character and quality. Alfieri’s complex Barbera d’Asti shows the potential of that grape and DOCG. A dark minerality and a “not just fruit” character is a marvelous counterpoint to the lush and juicy black fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($15, Bowler): I am reviewing this bargain-priced beauty again for emphasis since I just tasted it again. This seductive white shows the potential of white wines from the southern Rhône. A subtle peach-like character merges with a firm minerality. The combination delights the palate and invigorating acidity in the finish magnifies it charms. … Read more
A Greek White Instead of Rosé
Memorial Day means summer, which, of course to some people means rosé. But for me it means light to mid-weight white wines with energy, verve, and most of all, character. There are lots of French whites that fit that category, from zippy Muscadet to flinty village Chablis, to simple Bourgogne Blanc, to racy Sancerre. … Read more
Bordeaux’s Domaine de Chevalier and Its Outstanding White Wine
Bordeaux‘s image and reputation comes from its red wines, which, after all, account for about ninety percent of its production. Rating the overall quality of the vintage is always based on how the red wines fared, without regard to the whites.… Read more
From Canada’s Quench Magazine – Burgundy: A Look Back at the Last 50 Years and Forward to the Next
Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco Reserva (Spain) “Tres Viñas” 2019
($16, Carolina Wine Brands): Baron de Ley’s white Rioja Reserva has an entirely different — and weightier — profile compared to their regular bottling. The effects of oak-aging is apparent, but not intrusive. It adds weight and gravitas without dominating. Though there is more “oomph” here, it’s not a fruity wine, but paradoxically conveys an attractive austerity and an engaging hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Baron de Ley, Rioja Blanco (Spain) 2022
($14, Carolina Wine Brands): White Rioja, made chiefly from Viura, represents a little under 10 percent of the plantings in the region and is making a resurgence in the marketplace. This light and zesty one delivers a hint of minerality accompanied by refreshing saline-like acidity. … Read more
Ramõn Bilbao, Rioja Crianza (Spain) 2019
($15): Wines from Rioja, arguably Spain’s most famous wine area, can provide terrific value. Just take this one for example. Crianza, an official designation of aging, means that the red wine has been aged for two years, at least one of which was in oak barrels, before release. … Read more
Podere Sapaio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Sapaio” 2019
($94, Soilair Selection): Podere Sapaio, founded in 1999, is making itself known among the Super Tuscan with their flagship wine, Sapaio. A blend of organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Petit Verdot (20%) and Cabernet Franc, the stylish Sapaio impresses with a plush, velvety texture that shouts, “I’m important.” … Read more
Di Giovanna, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Vurría” 2021
($21, Regal Wine Imports): This zippy Grillo, made from an indigenous Sicilian grape, is a great accompaniment to seafood, even in a hearty tomato sauce, because of austere style and lively saline acidity. Not an opulent or fruit-driven wine, it is light weight, with a modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
Firriato, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Harmonium” 2014
($41): Made from one of Sicily’s native grapes, this robust red holds its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly, without a trace of heaviness. Smoke and other savory accents complement its dark plum-like fresh and dried fruit notes. Good balancing acidity keeps this mature beauty bright and fresh while fine tannins lend support without astringency. … Read more
Vignerons Laudun Chusclan, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) “Éléments Luna” 2022
($15): Laudun is an unusual Côte du Rhône Village because it produces a hefty amount of appealing white wines, like this one from the local co-operative. A versatile wine, this lively mid-weight beauty delivers a hint of white peaches without any heaviness so it would work well as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Domaine Pélaquié, Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2019
($14, Bowler): Laudun, one of the 22 villages allowed to attach the village name to the Côte du Rhône Villages appellation, has applied for, and is likely to be elevated, to cru status, which would put it on a level with Rasteau and Cairanne, other named villages who were formerly under the Côtes du Rhône Villages umbrella. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2020
($61): Papapietro Perry’s vibrant Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir shows bright red cherry-like flavors as opposed to the darker fruit character of the one from Nunes Vineyard. Still, it’s mostly a fruit-driven Pinot Noir without substantial savory notes common to that variety. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pommard Clones” 2020
($82): The lush Papapietro Perry Pommard Clones bottling is the boldest of Papapietro’s trio of Pinot Noir releases, displaying ripe black fruit notes. Like their two other bottlings, this Pinot Noir displays a velvety texture. Reflective of its 14.4 percent stated alcohol, a touch of heat comes through in its slightly sweet finish. … Read more
Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard 2020
($66): Papapietro Perry makes a trio of Pinot Noirs that all show a focus on ripe fruitiness while keeping the distinctiveness of site. Nunes Vineyard, a former pig farm with rich soil and a warm site, unsurprisingly, produced this robust Pinot Noir. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2021
($16): Talented and hard-working producers, such as Inama, are resurrecting Soave’s image that was tarnished and virtually destroyed by innocuous swill of the past. Now, wines from the Soave Classico DOC from top producers are frequently providing far more quality than their prices suggest. … Read more
Fattoria le Pupille, Morellino di Scansano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($19): Elisabetta Geppetti’s estate, Fattoria le Pupille, is one of the leading producers in the Morellino di Scansano, a DOCG located in southern Tuscany, near the coast. Though Sangiovese provides the base for Morellino, as it does in Chianti Classico, the wines from Morellino are typically richer than those from Chianti Classico because of the warmer climate. … Read more
Collestefano, Verdicchio di Matelica DOC (Marche, Italy) 2022
($16): Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller and lesser known than Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, is landlocked, unlike its more famous sibling. Despite its location, paradoxically, its wines have a more marine influence because this valley in the Apennine mountains was underwater in ancient times. … Read more
I Clivi di Mario Zanusso, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2021
($35): This is just one in the stellar line-up of wines that Mario Zanusso makes at I Clivi. In the right hands — and Zanusso certainly has them — Friulano has depth, a suave texture, and bright acidity. I Clivi’s 2021 has all of that and more. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Reine des Bois” 2022
($45, Kysela Pere et Fils): Though more well known for its red wines, Lirac produces some lively whites, like this one. That it is made from organic biodynamically grown grapes indicates to me that the winemaking team is more compulsive in the vineyard because they can’t just spray to control disease. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2022
($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): Frequent WineReviewOnline readers may know I am not a fan of rosés in general because they are often vapid and lack character. Not this one. Domaine de la Mordorée has fashion one from a blend Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault that delivers lively refreshment, delicate red fruitiness, and complementary spice.… Read more
Clos des Lunes, Bordeaux (France) “Lune Blanche” 2019
($20, Monsieur Touton Selection): The Barnard family, owners of the stellar Domaine de Chevalier, one of the top estates in Pessac Léognan, owns Clos des Lunes, a property located in the Sauternes region of Bordeaux. The care they take with their wines from Domaine de Chevalier show in their dry white wines from Clos des Lunes. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana’s Ghiaie della Furba
In 1979, Ugo Conti Bonacossi, owner of Tenuta di Capezzana, the leading estate in Carmignano, created a unique Super Tuscan wine, Ghiaie della Furba (literally, pebbles along the Furba stream). It should come as no surprise that a grower in Carmignano should make a Super Tuscan because, after all, Carmignano, not Bolgheri, was the birthplace of the concept. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay DCV Block 10 2021
($45): David Stare founded Dry Creek Vineyard over five decades ago, in 1972. Over those five decades, they have an enviable track record of consistency. Though I am reluctant to describe a style by what they are not, it is important to emphasize that Dry Creek Vineyard’s wines are never flamboyant. … Read more
Cline Family Cellars, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Hat Strap” 2021
($30): The Carneros region of Sonoma, and Napa for that matter, is cooler because it abuts San Pablo Bay, which funnels cool Pacific Ocean air into the vineyards. Despite the cooling maritime influences, Cline has managed to create a Chardonnay with substance, reflected by its 14.5 percent stated alcohol, but without going overboard. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2020
($55): If your idea of California Chardonnay is heavy and buttery, this graceful one with surprise you. Restrained, weighing in at a modest, 13.5 percent-stated alcohol, it nonetheless makes a prominent presence. Despite its apparent lack of power, there’s plenty going on here. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2020
($50): Tongue Dancer has skillfully managed to produce single-vineyard Chardonnay that are different, unique, and demonstrate a stylistic spectrum of the Russian River Valley. This beautifully balanced one displays lavish tropical fruit notes supported by zesty acidity and a welcoming hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Irwin Lane 2020
($42): Tongue Dancer’s Pratt Vineyard Irwin Lane bottling seems like a marriage of their Pratt Vine Hill and their Bacigalupi, with a touch more density and fruitiness compared to the Pratt Vine Hill, but fewer tropical aspects seen in the Bacigalupi. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard, Vine Hill Road 2020
($65): This sleek and racy Chardonnay is the bookend to Tongue Dancer’s tropically infused Bacigalupi Vineyard bottling. With a modest 13.1 percent stated alcohol, the taut Pratt Vine Hill Chardonnay delights the plate with flinty and mineral nuances. It unfolds gloriously as it sits in the glass so don’t be put off by its initial reticence. … Read more
Borthwick Vineyards, Wairarapa (South Island, New Zealand) “Paper Road CPR” 2021
($17, Levecke Imports): The CPR refers to the blend of this zippy wine: Chardonnay 23%, Pinot Gris 50%, and Riesling. A charmer, it leads with fine and flowery aromatics and then follows with sufficient depth to hold up and balance its energy.… Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2022
($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): Regular WineReviewOnline readers know of my aversion to rosé, which, all too often, is insipid and lacks interest. Not this one! Of course, it comes from Tavel, an appellation that allows producers to make only rosé and from one of the top producers not just in Tavel, but in the entire Rhône Valley. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Dame Rousse” 2020
($35, Kysela Pere et Fils): Lirac, a lesser-known appellation across the Rhône River from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is, like that more well-known neighbor, also a cru of the Rhône, a distinction given to a village and its surroundings that makes distinctive wines. So, looking at the Rhône quality pyramid, Lirac sits with Gigondas, Vacqueryas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and other crus, at the top. … Read more
Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): The quality of wines labeled Côtes du Rhône is as vast as the appellation, which is to say, vast. So, what differentiates one from another? The producer, of course. And Domaine de la Mordorée is one of the best, not only of Côtes du Rhône, but of other Rhône Valley appellations as well. … Read more
Four Decades of Guigal’s “Classic” Hermitage
E. Guigal’s consistently stunning “classic” Hermitage, as Philippe Guigal refers to it, as distinct from their Ex Voto-bottling, dispels several wine myths. First, it shows that a négociant bottling can be superb. Secondly, and more surprisingly perhaps, is that Guigal buys, get this, wine, not grapes, for much of their 45,000-bottle annual production.… Read more
Paul Hobbs, West Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2021
($80): The Sonoma Coast AVA is enormous, even encompassing the Russian River Valley, a warmer locate. Growers whose vineyards were closer to the Pacific would claim their wines came from “the real Sonoma Coast.” Finally, in 2022 The West Sonoma Coast, a strip closest to the Pacific Ocean, was rightly carved out of the greater Sonoma Coast AVA and given its own AVA. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2020
($63): One of the impressive things about Tongue Dancer’s wines is that they reflect their AVAs. This one from the cooler Sonoma Coast, still fruit-focused, manages to combine the appealing cherry-like aromatics and flavors with clear savory influences. Complexity emerges as it sits in the glass. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Pinot de Ville” 2020
($63): The talented team of James and Kerry MacPhail oversee Liquid Vineyl, the producer of Tongue Dancer wines. Since everyone just refers to them as Tongue Dancer, I am using that moniker as the producer. The MacPhails seem to favor a ripe, full-bodied style of Pinot Noir that emphasizes fruit over the grape’s potential savory side, though subtle herbal nuances do peak through in their Pinot de Ville. … Read more
Domaine Elodie Balme, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) 2021
($29, Louis/Dressner Selections): Elodie Balme symbolizes a new generation of winemakers in Rasteau, employing organic viticulture and making slightly less muscular wines that are formerly emblematic to this appellation. That said, no one would categorize this beauty, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvèdre, as a light wine. … Read more
Château de Montfaucon, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “Comtesse Madeleine” 2021
($30): Lirac, an often-overlooked appellation of the southern Rhône just to the west of Châteauneuf du Pape, is one of two Rhône appellations that makes all three colors, reds, whites, and rosés. (Vacqueyras is the other.) From what I heard from many during my recent trip to the area, Château de Montfaucon is one of the leading producers there. … Read more