($35): 
Focusing on the fruity, rather than savory, side of Pinot Noir, this ready-to-drink wine delivers ripe dark plum-like notes. This broad-shouldered wine is suavely textured with adequate acidity to balance its ripe black fruit profile. It finishes with the barest hint of sweetness. … Read more
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Modus Operandi Cellars, Petaluma Gap (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2021
($85): 
Judging from the two Pinot Noir and one Cabernet Sauvignon that I tasted, Modus Operandi favors a bold style of wine. Savory nuances add balance to this ripe,15 percent stated-alcohol, black-fruited beauty. Despite the savory notes, it comes across as slightly riper and bolder than their Vicarious bottling. … Read more
Modus Operandi Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
($115): 
Olive-like and herbal nuances balance the dense black cassis-like fruit in this rich and concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon. This muscle-bound wine carries its 15.5% stated alcohol easily. An alluring hint of tarriness enhances the long and enveloping finish. With a luxuriously suave texture, this archetypal Napa Cabernet would be an excellent choice with a char-broiled steak tonight.… Read more
Capezzana, Vin Santo di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2015
($90, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
The bottles were opened at least a dozen yards away, but the aromas of apricots and nuts stopped all conversation as people looked for the source of the wondrous aromas. Vin Santo is a curious wine, this one especially. … Read more
Capezzana, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2018
($62, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
This youthful treasure is a single vineyard Sangiovese named after Ugo Contini Bonacossi, the force behind the modern Capezzana estate who sadly passed away in 2013. The production is small, fewer than 3,000 bottles a year, because only the best grapes from this vineyard that Ugo loved go into the wine. … Read more
Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Trefiano” Riserva 2018
($66, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
Capezzana produces their Trefiano Riserva, a blend of Sangiovese (80%) with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo, only in the best years. The stunning 2018, a big wine, to be sure, is balanced by spicy, savory notes and an incredible freshness. … Read more
Guy Charlemagne, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV
($72, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Ironically, Guy Charlemagne who is located in Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of Champagne’s great sites for Chardonnay, makes this fabulous Rosé entirely from Pinot Noir. Yes, it’s a gloriously rich powerhouse, yet it is balanced and not overdone. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Saint Véran (Burgundy, France) “Les Deux Moulins” 2020
($35, Louis Latour, USA): 
The Saint Véran appellation abuts Pouilly-Fuissé and, unsurprisingly, the wines are similar. Though when tasting the same producer’s Saint Véran next to their Pouilly-Fuissé, the latter always comes away the winner, at least until you see the prices. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) Les Genièvres 2020
($24, Louis Latour, USA): 
The Mâconnais, a region of Burgundy that lies south of the famed and expensive Côte d’Or, is an unexplored treasure-trove of Chardonnay-based wines. The base of the pedigree pyramid are wines labeled Mâcon-Villages, which means they came from grapes grown anywhere throughout the region. … Read more
Domaine Gérard Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2020
($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Fourchaume, one of top Premier Cru vineyards of Chablis, abuts the Grand Cru vineyards on the right bank of the Serein River. Generally, the wines from Fourchaume are more voluptuous, relatively speaking of course, then the wines from other 1er cru vineyards. … Read more
An Awesome Aligoté
Let me get right to the point. The 2020 Aligoté from Domaine du Cellier aux Moines is the best Bourgogne Aligoté I’ve ever had, and I’ve had one from Coche-Dury. Why is it so stunning? Firstly, this Aligoté, labelled “Sous les Roches,” comes from a vineyard in Montagny planted in 1945.… Read more
Sommariva, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($17, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): 
There is Prosecco and then there is the huge step up to Prosecco from the hilly Valdobbiadene – Conegliano region. Of course, it’s a mouthful to pronounce, but it’s worth remembering the distinction when buying Prosecco. … Read more
Castello di Ama, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Pinot Nero “Il Chiuso” 2019
($48): 
Castello di Ama is known for spectacular Chianti Classico. But Pinot Nero? Isn’t it too warm in Chianti Classico to grow Pinot Nero? Apparently not, judging from this energetic beauty. The expressive aromatics and savory notes suggest the Pinot Nero must be planted in a cool site. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($22): 
The 2020 vintage in Chianti Classico generally produced rich satisfying wines. Badia a Coltibuono’s certainly fits that mold with dark, but not black, cherry nuances. It has great concentration but more importantly, gorgeous balancing acidity that gives this mid-weight wine enormous energy. … Read more
Fattoria Le Masse, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($45): 
An electric tension between fruit and firmness energizes this mid-weight wine. Made entirely from Sangiovese, this elegant and sculpted Chianti Classico has a bit of everything, floral aromatics, a steady frame, and a suave texture. Black cherry-like notes add charm to the finish. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Sardegna Alghero Rosso DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Tanca Farrà” 2019
($32, Taub Family Selections): 
Regulations for the Sardegna Alghero Rosso DOC allow the inclusion of any Sardinian red grapes except for aromatic ones. Sella & Mosca use a seamless, fifty-fifty blend of Cannonau and Cabernet Sauvignon to achieve this beauty. Juicy black fruit enrobed with fine tannins make this suave, muscular wine a pleasure to drink now. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Sardegna Alghero DOC (Sardinia, Italy) 2016
($60, Taub Family Selections): 
This big but not boisterous wine shows that Sella & Mosca is equally capable with the so-called international grapes as with local ones. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon, the Marchese di Villamarina delivers succulent black fruit, plenty of savory notes all wrapped in firm, not hard, tannins. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Cannonau di Sardegna DOC Riserva (Sardinia, Italy) 2020
($17, Taub Family Selections): 
Sella & Mosca, despite their size — the largest estate on Sardinia — makes excellent wines. This juicy mid-weight Cannonau, the local name for Grenache, delivers crunchy red fruit combined with a hint of spice. Not a fruit bomb by any means, it actually has an engaging hint of bitterness in its long finish. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2020
($45, Louis Latour, USA): 
This Santenay is just one example of the great success Latour had with their village wines in 2020. Characteristic of the vintage, it has good depth that augments its charm. Supple, fresh, and long, it is a delight now — and refined for a village Santenay. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2020
($50, Louis Latour, USA): 
Mercurey, a village just south of the Côte d’Or in the Côte Chalonnaise, is known primarily for red wines. In general, the warmth of 2020 growing season added ripeness to these wines complementing their stoney character. That explains the appeal of this Mercurey from Latour. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2020
($45, Louis Latour, USA): 
Burgundy lovers have discovered the charms of Marsannay, the northernmost village of the Côtes de Nuits. Prices have risen as a result and are poised to continue their climb because the village is in the process of having some vineyards certified as 1er Cru. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020
($45): 
Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014. To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one. This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019
($28): 
Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust. Put this one in the latter category. Earthy notes support dark fruit character. Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. … Read more
Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020
($45): Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014. To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one. This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Rosso di Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ghiaie della Furba” 2015
($60, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
Ghiaie della Furba, a Super Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah from Capezzana, Carmignano’s top producer, is a robust wine when young. Even at eight years of age, this tightly wound beauty reveals its glories slowly as it sits in the glass. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2016
($31, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
Carmignano, Tuscany’s smallest DOCG, is unique because it requires the use of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, in the blend with Sangiovese. Capezzana makes the benchmark Carmignano. Their 2016, from a spectacular vintage and still widely available retail, is a great introduction to the DOCG. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019
($28): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust. Put this one in the latter category. Earthy notes support dark fruit character. Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. … Read more
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton-Perrières 2020
($375): 
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers. They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009. Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.” … Read more
La Rioja Alta, Rioja Reserva DOC (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” 2016
($42): 
La Rioja Alta is one of Rioja’s top producers. Their Viña Ardanza, an exquisite blend of Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha, brings both red fruit and savory nuances together. Subtle mature hints add complexity and intrigue. Suavely textured, the emphasis is on elegance and stature, not power. … Read more
Herdade de Sao Miguel, Alentejano (Portugal) “Colheita Seleccionada” 2020
($15, Quintessential Wines): 
With wines like this one Portugal is poised to supply the world with satisfying wines at good prices. A blend of four red grapes, Alicante Bouschet (50%) Touriga Nacional (30%) Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, known for making power packed wines, it is — unsurprisingly — a bold wine. … Read more
Vigna 800, Valpolicella Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “La Cesolina” 2020
($35): 
Light and fresh, Le Cesolina is just what you want with Valpolicella. Don’t misinterpret the light and fresh moniker to mean vapid. Not at all. Though this juicy red wine weighs in at a mere 12.5 percent stated alcohol, it delivers plenty of enjoyment with juicy red cherry-like flavors. … Read more
Caldora, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Italy) 2020
($15, Gonzalez Byass USA): 
When you run across a wine at this price that’s this enjoyable, it makes you smile. This bright and juicy mid-weight wine has an engaging mix of red fruits accented by a hint of spice. Mild tannins allow immediate enjoyment.… Read more
Viña Don Melchor, Puente Alto (Maipo Valley, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
($151): 
Before Seña, Almaviva, Clos Apalta, or Viñedo Chadwick appeared on the scene, there was Don Melchor, standing head and shoulders above every other Chilean wine. Formerly, Don Melchor was the flagship of the Concha y Toro winery. Since 2019, it has become its own entity and winery within Concha y Toro, hence the subtle change in producer to Viña Don Melchor. … Read more
Beronia, Rioja Crianza (Spain) 2018
($15, Gonzalez Byass USA): 
This bright, mid-weight Tempranillo-based wine is a pleasure to drink now. Fresh and lively, it is fruity, but not too fruity, and carries its stated 14.5 percent alcohol seamlessly. Mild tannins provide needed structure without astringency. Its price makes it an everyday kind of wine.… Read more
Waypoint Wine Company, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard 2020
($60): 
The character of the wine announces itself with an unnecessarily heavy bottle and a wax-covered cork, which makes opening it difficult. A glossy, intense, cream-laden Chardonnay flows from this impressive packaging. Bright acidity amplifies its seductive texture. This well-made wine won’t be for everyone, but those who embrace lush ripe Chardonnay with oomph with love its buttery richness.… Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Fincas de la Villa” 2017
($22, Quintessential Wines): 
Bodegas Muriel makes a range of wines, all of which are easy to recommend. Frankly, I would buy all three of the current releases reviewed this week, then invite some people over, and give everyone a quick lesson in Rioja. … Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) “Viñas Viejas” 2014
($30, Quintessential Wines): 
Rounding out this trio of Muriel wines is their stunning old vine Reserva. It is just better, more complex and layered compared to their “regular” Reserva with an even finer texture. It’s the kind of wine that makes you pause after the first sip. … Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Crianza (Spain) “Fincas de la Villa” 2019
($16, Quintessential Wines): 
The wines of Rioja have been labeled traditionally by the amount of aging they receive prior to release. By law, a Crianza must receive at least one year of barrel age followed by a year of bottle age before release. … Read more
Finger Lakes Riesling: Paul Hobbs Has Landed
Will Paul Hobbs be the Rocket that launches New York’s Finger Lakes region?
Every under-recognized fine wine region needs a high-profile producer to be a locomotive to pull it onto the world’s stage. With his new venture, Hillick and Hobbs, named after his parents, Joan Hillick and Edward Hobbs, Paul Hobbs just might do it for New York’s Finger Lakes.… Read more
Burgundy Buying Blueprint for the 99-Percenters
Even a brief glance at on-line ads from wine retailers shows that Côte d’Or Burgundy has become prohibitively expensive for everyone except the so called “one-percenters” at the very peak of the wealth pyramid. And I’ve seen even some of them balk at the prices. … Read more
Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($60): 
Jordan deserves high praise for never wavering from their course of making full-flavored yet elegant Cabernet Sauvignon. Rob Davis, Jordan’s first and longtime, 1976 to 2019, winemaker, told me he wanted “wines with balance” with low alcohol, not “tannic monsters.” … Read more
Masi, Rosso Verona IGT (Veneto, Italy) “CampoFiorin” 2019
($19, SM USA): 
In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine. Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone. In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now. … Read more
Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Costasera” 2017
($61, SM USA): 
Masi’s Costasera Amarone is a big — 15 percent stated alcohol — bold, wintertime wine. Amarone is made using only dried grapes, in contrast to their CampoFiorin, which leads to a higher finished alcohol and more power. There is a hint of sweetness in the finish that balances the wine’s intensity. … Read more
Another addition to the Chianti quality pyramid: tasting Rùfina’s Terraelectae wines
Federico Giuntini Masseti, president of the Chianti Rùfina Consorzio, says that the purpose of Terraelectae – Chianti Rùfina’s new top-tier category- is to highlight the special character of the Sangiovese-based wines from Rùfina’s unique terroir. The producers hope the category will allow Chianti Rùfina to emerge from Chianti Classico’s shadow and be considered a top Tuscan DOCG, like Brunello.… Read more
Hamel Family Wines, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Isthmus” 2018
($90): 
This is a stylish and refined Bordeaux blend of roughly two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot filling out the rest. Leading with great aromatics, the emphasis is on elegance rather than power, though there’s plenty of that as well. … Read more
Bonterra, Mendocino County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon McNab Ranch Vineyard “The McNab” 2020
($60): 
Whenever the name of a wine starts with “The,” you know the producer wants to make a statement. An overweight bottle adds to that message. Made with biodynamically grown grapes, this is a big, bold style of Cabernet. Powerful and concentrated, it’s not overdone, just intense with a commanding presence. … Read more
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2014
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034The light straw color and spiciness of youth bode well for this six-year-old wine. Minerals and pepper-like spice predominate while pineapple-like fruitiness lies in the background at this stage. The following night, more fruit elements emerge, while the riveting acidity keeps it fresh and full of energy.
Charles Krug, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2021
($17): 
This middle-of-the-road style of Sauvignon Blanc strikes the right balance. A mid-weight wine, it has enough bite and varietal character so you know what you’re drinking, but it doesn’t shake you by the lapels as many Sauvignon Blancs might. A pleasing roundness makes it a great choice as a stand-alone aperitif wine, but it has enough acidity to keep it interesting throughout a meal.… Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2022
($33, Moet Hennessy): 
Over 35 years ago, in 1985, Cloudy Bay put New Zealand wine on the world’s stage with their riveting Sauvignon Blanc. They, more than anyone, were responsible for the meteoric growth and popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Year in and year out, they continue to produce a stellar example of that wine. … Read more
Dog Point Vineyard, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2021
($22, Vintus Wines): 
Dog Point’s Sauvignon Blanc has been a favorite of mine since Fred Ek, owner of Ex-Cellars, their importer at the time, introduced me to it a couple of decades ago. Dog Point, still family owned, made a delightful one in 2021.… Read more