($17, Disaronno International): 
Consumers unfamiliar with Nerello Mascalese, the signature grape of Sicily’s Mount Etna, should grab this bottle. Lava-like mineral notes complement the sour cherry like ones in this mid-weight red. A long an explosive finish reminds you this is a wine to sip and savor. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2021
($12, Palm Bay International): 
Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most main red grape, is worth getting to know because it can deliver an appealing combination of fruitiness mixed with non-fruit elements. Take this one, for example. Its initial delivery is heavy on the fresh, black cherry-like notes. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2020
($100, Louis Latour, USA): 
The 7.5- acre Les Perrières vineyard lies high up on the slope in a cooler locale, which may help explain this wine’s bright energy in a hot year like 2020. Though tightly wound, as expected from a young top premier cru, its stature shows with gorgeous mineral-scented aromatics and impressive length. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2020
($117, Louis Latour, USA): 
Wines from Aloxe-Corton, even its premier crus, are overshadowed by grand cru Corton and overlooked by consumers. Do. Not. Overlook. This. Wine. Its fleshy body atop a firm frame of iron-tinged flavors identify it clearly as Aloxe-Corton. … Read more
Vini Franchetti Tenuta di Trinoro, Toscano Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Cupole” 2020
($35): 
Cupole is the second wine of Tenuta di Tinoro, a “Super Tuscan” that commands a three-digit price tag — and the first digit is not a one. Like the first wine, Cupole is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot that varies year to year to years depending on how the individual varieties fare during the growing season. … Read more
Batasiolo, Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Granée” 2021
($23, Palm Bay International): 
Gavi is one of the unsung stars of Italian white wines. This one, from Batasiolo, a top Barolo producer, is made entirely from Cortese grape grown in the village of Gavi, from which the DOCG takes its name.… Read more
Brigaldara, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2020
($35, Vinifera): 
Brigaldara, a family-owned estate since the early 20th century, is one of the leading lights in Valpolicella. The make a stunning array of wines linked by a gracefulness that belies their power. Take this Valpolicella Superiore. It shows a mixture of red and black fruit flavors, but with a healthy dose of savory, non-fruity ones — spices and herbs — that add tremendous intrigue. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Cantina di Brigaldara” 2012
($210, Vinifera): 
This decade-old Amarone has developed beautifully and demonstrates the rewards of aging. I suspect Brigaldara’s 2016 Case Vecie Amarone will develop along these lines, which is why I suggest cellaring it. This 2012 Amarone leads with dazzling aromatics. Then, additional complexity — mature flavors along with fresh and dried dark fruit ones — emerges. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2017
($75, Vinifera): 
Weighing in at 16.5 percent stated alcohol, this broad-shouldered wine is remarkably elegant. Indeed, it’s the elegance you notice, not the power, although that’s hard to ignore. As much as I liked Brigladara’s Valpolicella Classico Casa Vecie, their Amarone just conveys more complexity — a mix of fresh and dried fruit — and power without sacrificing gracefulness. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Cavolo 2017
($70, Vinifera): 
Brigaldara’a Cavolo Amarone display darker fruit flavors and more weight than their straight Amarone, yet maintains their signature elegance and balance. The 16.0 percent stated alcohol is integrated effortlessly into the flavors and weight. There’s no heat or raisiny flavors here, just purity. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2016
($120, Vinifera): 
Despite an extra year of bottle age, Brigaldara’s 2016 Amarone “Case Vecie” is far more youthful than any of their 2017s, showing a more tannic structure. Layers of dark dried and fresh fruit notes along with haunting minerality and their hallmark elegance are all still apparent. … Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Passo delle Mule” 2019
($20, Disaronno International): 
Duca di Salaparuta, one of the oldest wineries in Sicily, introduced many Americans to the value-packed joy of Sicilian wines decades ago with Corvo, which was made with purchased grapes grown all over the island. Well, Duca di Salaparuta has evolved and now makes a bevy of distinctive estate wines. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Red Label” 2019
($48): 
Caprio Cellars focuses on the grapes typically found in red Bordeaux. The extra reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon, 78 versus 62 percent, and no Malbec makes it a fascinating comparison to their “Eleanor.” Here, delightful savory, black olive-like, rather than berry notes dominate. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Eleanor” 2019
($60): 
Dennis P. Murphy, the owner of Caprio, named this seamless Bordeaux blend — his flagship wine — for his grandmother, Eleanor Caprio. This suavely textured Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wine, with Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc lending supporting roles, is fresh and lively. … Read more
Quivira Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2021
($19): 
Quivira makes at least four Sauvignon Blancs in various styles. This one shows a straightforward, electricity-filled style that will awaken any palate. There is no hiding the vibrancy and piercing nature behind a patina or oak, or an attempt at mellowing it with Semillon. … Read more
Quivira Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Fig Tree Vineyard 2021
($30): 
Quivira’s Sauvignon Blanc from their Fig Tree Vineyard shows that site and blend combines to make a far more complex wine. The vineyard sits at the confluence of the Wine Creek — I wonder who gave it that name — and Dry Creek, which, according to their website, imparts freshness because of the rocky alluvial soil. … Read more
Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2014
($18, Osborne): 
Bodegas Montecillo, one of Rioja’s most prominent producers, consistently offers great value. Take this Reserva for example. A blend of Tempranillo (90 percent), Garnacha (8 percent) and Mazuelo, it spends two years aging in oak barrels followed by another 18 months in the bottle before release, which explains why the 2014 is the current release. … Read more
Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2011
($22, Osborne): 
Where else but Spain, and particularly Rioja, can you find the glories of a wine with a decade of age that you can afford to buy and enjoy on a regular basis? Properly aged wine has an alluring ying/yang of fruit and non-fruit character enrobed by a silky suaveness that is captivating. … Read more
Cantine Garrone, Vino Rosso (Piedmont, Italy) “Munaloss” 2020
($17): 
Garrone, a small, even tiny, co-operative at the foot of the Alps in the northernmost part of Piedmont, is unusual. The Garrone family works about 7.5 acres of vines themselves and has recruited 50 other growers whose holdings total about 25 acres. … Read more
Cantine Garrone, Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Prünent” 2019
($41): 
One advantage of a co-operative, like Cantine Garrone, is that they have access to old vines. Many of the members of the co-op have small plots that have been in their families for generations. These old-vine plots are too small to commercialize individually, so the farmers send their grapes to the co-op. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) 2020
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Michele Chiarlo, an excellent Piedmont producer known for their Barolo, also makes wine from Barbera, this one and upper level one, labeled La Court, from the Nizza DOCG, which sells for about twice the price (and, I might add, is worth it). … Read more
Fattoria Selvapiana, Chianti Rùfina Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Bucerchiale 2015
($48, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
Chianti Rùfina, along with Chianti Classico, is the best subzone of the greater Chianti denomination. Selvapiana is one of Rùfina’s top producers and Vigneto Bucerchiale is their top wine. So, this wine is a “no-brainer,” especially since it has seven years under its belt and has just hit its drinkable window. … Read more
Cantina di Tortona, Colli Tortonesi Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Timorasso “Piccolo Derthona” 2020
($24, Matchvino): 
Though I reviewed this wine in July 2021, I just enjoyed it again with dinner and felt consumers should know about it. The low-yielding Timorasso grape was popular in the Colli Tortonesi DOC in the pre-phylloxera era but was replaced by the more productive Cortese when growers replanted. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Maremma Toscana DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Campo Maccione” 2021
($16, Taub Family Selections): 
To capture the crisp clean character of this wine, Rocca delle Macìe harvests the grapes early in the morning, when it is cool. Then, they are kept on dry ice until they reach the winery where a cold fermentation occurs in stainless tanks. … Read more
Sylvain Langoureau, St. Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2020
($53, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Sylvain Langoureau is one of those excellent producers who has not yet achieved cult status, which is good news for savvy consumers because his wines remain undervalued. Combine his talents with a fantastic vintage for whites and voilà, you have a stunning white wine. … Read more
Autréau de Champillon, Champagne (France) Premier Cru Extra-Brut NV
($46, Baron Francois): 
Though Chardonnay comprises only about 20% of this blend — the reminder is equal parts of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier — the finesse imparted by that grape comes through. It is a masterful blend because the red grapes don’t dominate, they just add a touch of power. … Read more
Domaine de L’Églantière, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2021
($27): 
Domaine de L’Églantière is one of two estates owned by Jean Durup Père et Fils, one of the top producers in Chablis. (Château de Maligny is the other.) You often will see both the name of the estate and Durup’s name on the label. … Read more
Château de Fleys, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2020
($22): 
Its softer style makes this a wonderful introduction to Chablis for those who have yet to discover the magnificent wines of this appellation. Fruitier and less mineraly than many Chablis, it will appeal to those who may be turned off by the prominent stony edginess many Chablis. … Read more
Pernot Belicard, Bourgogne Côte-d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2020
($34, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
The Pernot name is synonymous with great white Burgundy largely due to Domaine Paul Pernot in Puligny-Montrachet. But this being Burgundy, there are many estates with similar, or at least, overlapping names due to marriage and the French laws of inheritance. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Cras 2020
($50, Louis Latour, USA): 
Though at least 85 percent of wine from Beaune is red, a small amount of white come from that appellation. Latour’s white Aux Cras is one of the best. And because white Beaune lacks the cachet of the big three, Meursault, Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet, the wines are less expensive. … Read more
Domaine Trapet, Alsace (France) Riesling “R.Q.W.R.” 2018
($27): 
My first introduction to Trapet, years ago, was with their stunning Burgundies. Then I discovered they also make wines in Alsace. Unsurprisingly, given their finesse-filled Burgundies, their wines from Alsace, made from organic and biodynamically farmed grapes, show grace and elegant as well. … Read more
Simi Winery , Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2020
($20): 
Simi, founded in 1876, is one of California’s oldest wineries. Still located in Sonoma, where Giuseppe and Pietro Simi first made their wines, Simi makes a range of Chardonnay. This one, a blend from various sites within Sonoma County, delivers great value for the price. … Read more
Pasqua, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry 2020
($18, Pasqua USA): 
Though Prosecco Rosé might be a brilliant marketing tool, combining too hot categories of wine, in reality it is an official Italian DOC. To qualify, the wines must be vintage dated and contain Pinot Noir, both of which will push up the price. … Read more
Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire 2019
($25): 
Simple advice: Buy whatever wines from Jean-Marc Brocard your budget allows. A leader in organic and biodynamic viticulture, Jean-Marc Brocard makes fabulous Chablis, from the “simple” village ones to the Grand Crus. His Sainte Claire bottling is a step up from his generic village Chablis and always over delivers for the price. … Read more
Hillick & Hobbs, Seneca Lake (Finger Lakes, New York) Dry Riesling Estate Vineyard 2019
($35): 
Paul Hobbs, who has made wines around the world, has chosen the Finger Lakes for his Riesling. He and his younger brother, David, purchased a 78-acre piece of land on Lake Seneca in 2013. Developed from scratch, they have now planted 21 acres of it will Riesling. … Read more
Hillick & Hobbs, Seneca Lake (Finger Lakes, New York) Dry Riesling Estate Vineyard 2020
($35): 
As one of California’s leading winemakers, Paul Hobbs needs no introduction. The Finger Lakes should be thrilled to have him making wine there because his wines, at least based on these first two vintages, will bring widespread acclaim to the area. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($25, Volio Imports): 
What a difference a few hills and a little elevation makes. Year in and year out, Cecchi’s Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Reserva is one of my favorites. The 2018 is no exception. A blend of Sangiovese (95%) and Colorino, there are no international influences of Cabernet, Merlot, or oak-aging. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($48, Volio Imports): 
Gran Selezione is a new category of Chianti Classico that sits above Reserva, at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. Without getting into the weeds regarding the regulations for Gran Selezione, suffice it to say it should be the producer’s best Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Ribaldoni” 2018
($15, Volio Imports): 
The 2018 Ribaldoni Chianti Classico comes from Villa Rosa’s youngest vines. Lighter than the similarly priced Primocolle from Villa Cerna, it displays the same seamless balance of bright juicy fruit, spice, and good depth. Not overdone, it is lively and direct, with just the right tannic structure, exactly what you would expect from Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Primocolle 2019
($15, Volio Imports): 
The Cecchi family, one of the top producers in Tuscany, have two separate and distinct estates in Chianti Classico, Villa Cerna and Villa Rosa. Unsurprisingly, the wines from the two estates are very different because of the diversity of soil, climate, exposure — in sum, the terroir — even over a short distance. … Read more
Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2020
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
I taste at Domaine Bart every year because they are one of the top producers in Marsannay, the northern-most village of the Côte de Nuits. Wines from Marsannay remain under consumers’ radar, in part, because the village has no vineyards designated as premier cru, yet. … Read more
Landmark Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay “Overlook” 2020
($21): 
Landmark Vineyards, founded in 1974, is another “old timer” in Sonoma County winemaking. Focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, they make consistently good examples of both. Take this Chardonnay for example. Not overblown, it still has plenty of richness. Good acidity gives it life and balances the moderate oaky richness. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2021
($20): 
Dry Creek Vineyard, founded by David Stare in 1972, is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. Not a “cult” producer, Dry Creek has turned out incredibly consistently good and well-priced wines over those five decades. Their 2021 Sauvignon Blanc is just another example. … Read more
Famille Bouey, Bordeaux (France) “Maison Blanche” 2020
($17, Quintessential Wines): 
This is a perfect example of why place matters. Here is the same blend of Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon from the same vintage made by the same producer as Bouey’s Oh La Vache. The only difference is the location of the grapes. … Read more
Famille Bouey, Bordeaux (France) “Les Parcelles No 8” 2020
($20, Quintessential Wines): 
This third offering from Famille Bouey shows what happens when you substitute Cabernet Franc for Cabernet Sauvignon. The blend is still Merlot-heavy (80%), but Cabernet Franc replaces its brother. I assume the name, Les Parcelles No 8, refers to particular plots where Cabernet Franc and Merlot do especially well. … Read more
Famille Bouey, IGP Atlantique (France) “Oh La Vache” 2020
($13, Quintessential Wines): 
The geographic designation, “IGP Atlantique” means the grapes were grown in the vast area anywhere in the southwest of France from Bordeaux to Cognac. The Merlot (85%) in this blend brings a bright, juicy aspect, while the Cabernet Sauvignon provides just the right amount of structure. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2020
($16): 
The range of Iris Vineyards’ wines I’ve tasted recently have been so noteworthy for quality and price, I would be tempted to buy future offerings without having tasted them beforehand. Take this 2020 Pinot Gris. It is simply marvelous, with subtle hint of pears and stone fruit-like flavors perfectly balanced by zesty energy. … Read more
Youngberg Hill Vineyards, McMinnville (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Bailey Family” 2018
($85): 
The first sip of this tightly-wound Chardonnay is unimpressive. But don’t be put off by that, because it blossoms to reveal its grandeur. Despite techniques that should result in fatness, such as barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation, and barrel aging, this Chardonnay is sleek and racy. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2020
($24): 
I tasted and was enthralled by this Pinot Noir before I knew its price. After I saw the price, my enthusiasm exploded. It is rare to find a Pinot Noir with this kind of charm and subtlety for less than 25 bucks. … Read more
Iris Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Areté” 2018
($35): 
The wine is great, really superb. The heavy bottle stinks. Iris trumpets sustainable farming practices on their website, but resorts to environmentally unhealthy heavy bottles. I’ll get off my soap box now because I review wines, not environmental practices, and this one is worth raving about. … Read more