Category Archives: Reviews

Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020

($45):  Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014.  To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one.  This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. Read more

Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019

($28):  Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust.  Put this one in the latter category.  Earthy notes support dark fruit character.  Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. Read more

Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020

($45):  Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014.  To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one.  This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires. Read more

Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019

($28):  Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust.  Put this one in the latter category.  Earthy notes support dark fruit character.  Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. Read more

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton-Perrières 2020

($375):  Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers.  They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009.  Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.” Read more

Viña Don Melchor, Puente Alto (Maipo Valley, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

($151):  Before Seña, Almaviva, Clos Apalta, or Viñedo Chadwick appeared on the scene, there was Don Melchor, standing head and shoulders above every other Chilean wine.  Formerly, Don Melchor was the flagship of the Concha y Toro winery.  Since 2019, it has become its own entity and winery within Concha y Toro, hence the subtle change in producer to Viña Don Melchor. Read more

Waypoint Wine Company, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard 2020

($60):  The character of the wine announces itself with an unnecessarily heavy bottle and a wax-covered cork, which makes opening it difficult.  A glossy, intense, cream-laden Chardonnay flows from this impressive packaging.  Bright acidity amplifies its seductive texture.  This well-made wine won’t be for everyone, but those who embrace lush ripe Chardonnay with oomph with love its buttery richness.Read more

Bonterra, Mendocino County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon McNab Ranch Vineyard “The McNab” 2020

($60):  Whenever the name of a wine starts with “The,” you know the producer wants to make a statement.  An overweight bottle adds to that message.  Made with biodynamically grown grapes, this is a big, bold style of Cabernet.  Powerful and concentrated, it’s not overdone, just intense with a commanding presence. Read more

Charles Krug, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2021

($17):  This middle-of-the-road style of Sauvignon Blanc strikes the right balance.  A mid-weight wine, it has enough bite and varietal character so you know what you’re drinking, but it doesn’t shake you by the lapels as many Sauvignon Blancs might.  A pleasing roundness makes it a great choice as a stand-alone aperitif wine, but it has enough acidity to keep it interesting throughout a meal.Read more

Alta Vista, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec Single Vineyard, Albaneve 2018

($51, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Like the unnecessarily heavy bottle, this stunning single-vineyard Malbec is a weighty bold wine but with remarkable balance for its size.  This robust wine carries its 15 percent stated alcohol well.  Suavely textured, it still has enough structure to counter the deep plum-like fruit and slightly alluring tarry elements. Read more

Vini Franchetti Tenuta di Trinoro, Toscano Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Cupole” 2020

($35):  Cupole is the second wine of Tenuta di Tinoro, a “Super Tuscan” that commands a three-digit price tag — and the first digit is not a one.  Like the first wine, Cupole is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot that varies year to year to years depending on how the individual varieties fare during the growing season. Read more

Brigaldara, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2020

($35, Vinifera):  Brigaldara, a family-owned estate since the early 20th century, is one of the leading lights in Valpolicella.  The make a stunning array of wines linked by a gracefulness that belies their power.  Take this Valpolicella Superiore.  It shows a mixture of red and black fruit flavors, but with a healthy dose of savory, non-fruity ones — spices and herbs — that add tremendous intrigue. Read more

Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Cantina di Brigaldara” 2012

($210, Vinifera):  This decade-old Amarone has developed beautifully and demonstrates the rewards of aging.  I suspect Brigaldara’s 2016 Case Vecie Amarone will develop along these lines, which is why I suggest cellaring it.  This 2012 Amarone leads with dazzling aromatics.  Then, additional complexity — mature flavors along with fresh and dried dark fruit ones — emerges. Read more

Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2017

($75, Vinifera):  Weighing in at 16.5 percent stated alcohol, this broad-shouldered wine is remarkably elegant.  Indeed, it’s the elegance you notice, not the power, although that’s hard to ignore.  As much as I liked Brigladara’s Valpolicella Classico Casa Vecie, their Amarone just conveys more complexity — a mix of fresh and dried fruit — and power without sacrificing gracefulness. Read more

Duca di Salaparuta, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Passo delle Mule” 2019

($20, Disaronno International):  Duca di Salaparuta, one of the oldest wineries in Sicily, introduced many Americans to the value-packed joy of Sicilian wines decades ago with Corvo, which was made with purchased grapes grown all over the island.  Well, Duca di Salaparuta has evolved and now makes a bevy of distinctive estate wines. Read more