($15, Gonzalez Byass USA): 
When you run across a wine at this price that’s this enjoyable, it makes you smile. This bright and juicy mid-weight wine has an engaging mix of red fruits accented by a hint of spice. Mild tannins allow immediate enjoyment.… Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Viña Don Melchor, Puente Alto (Maipo Valley, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
($151): 
Before Seña, Almaviva, Clos Apalta, or Viñedo Chadwick appeared on the scene, there was Don Melchor, standing head and shoulders above every other Chilean wine. Formerly, Don Melchor was the flagship of the Concha y Toro winery. Since 2019, it has become its own entity and winery within Concha y Toro, hence the subtle change in producer to Viña Don Melchor. … Read more
Beronia, Rioja Crianza (Spain) 2018
($15, Gonzalez Byass USA): 
This bright, mid-weight Tempranillo-based wine is a pleasure to drink now. Fresh and lively, it is fruity, but not too fruity, and carries its stated 14.5 percent alcohol seamlessly. Mild tannins provide needed structure without astringency. Its price makes it an everyday kind of wine.… Read more
Waypoint Wine Company, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard 2020
($60): 
The character of the wine announces itself with an unnecessarily heavy bottle and a wax-covered cork, which makes opening it difficult. A glossy, intense, cream-laden Chardonnay flows from this impressive packaging. Bright acidity amplifies its seductive texture. This well-made wine won’t be for everyone, but those who embrace lush ripe Chardonnay with oomph with love its buttery richness.… Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Fincas de la Villa” 2017
($22, Quintessential Wines): 
Bodegas Muriel makes a range of wines, all of which are easy to recommend. Frankly, I would buy all three of the current releases reviewed this week, then invite some people over, and give everyone a quick lesson in Rioja. … Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) “Viñas Viejas” 2014
($30, Quintessential Wines): 
Rounding out this trio of Muriel wines is their stunning old vine Reserva. It is just better, more complex and layered compared to their “regular” Reserva with an even finer texture. It’s the kind of wine that makes you pause after the first sip. … Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Crianza (Spain) “Fincas de la Villa” 2019
($16, Quintessential Wines): 
The wines of Rioja have been labeled traditionally by the amount of aging they receive prior to release. By law, a Crianza must receive at least one year of barrel age followed by a year of bottle age before release. … Read more
Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($60): 
Jordan deserves high praise for never wavering from their course of making full-flavored yet elegant Cabernet Sauvignon. Rob Davis, Jordan’s first and longtime, 1976 to 2019, winemaker, told me he wanted “wines with balance” with low alcohol, not “tannic monsters.” … Read more
Masi, Rosso Verona IGT (Veneto, Italy) “CampoFiorin” 2019
($19, SM USA): 
In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine. Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone. In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now. … Read more
Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Costasera” 2017
($61, SM USA): 
Masi’s Costasera Amarone is a big — 15 percent stated alcohol — bold, wintertime wine. Amarone is made using only dried grapes, in contrast to their CampoFiorin, which leads to a higher finished alcohol and more power. There is a hint of sweetness in the finish that balances the wine’s intensity. … Read more
Hamel Family Wines, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Isthmus” 2018
($90): 
This is a stylish and refined Bordeaux blend of roughly two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot filling out the rest. Leading with great aromatics, the emphasis is on elegance rather than power, though there’s plenty of that as well. … Read more
Bonterra, Mendocino County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon McNab Ranch Vineyard “The McNab” 2020
($60): 
Whenever the name of a wine starts with “The,” you know the producer wants to make a statement. An overweight bottle adds to that message. Made with biodynamically grown grapes, this is a big, bold style of Cabernet. Powerful and concentrated, it’s not overdone, just intense with a commanding presence. … Read more
Charles Krug, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2021
($17): 
This middle-of-the-road style of Sauvignon Blanc strikes the right balance. A mid-weight wine, it has enough bite and varietal character so you know what you’re drinking, but it doesn’t shake you by the lapels as many Sauvignon Blancs might. A pleasing roundness makes it a great choice as a stand-alone aperitif wine, but it has enough acidity to keep it interesting throughout a meal.… Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2022
($33, Moet Hennessy): 
Over 35 years ago, in 1985, Cloudy Bay put New Zealand wine on the world’s stage with their riveting Sauvignon Blanc. They, more than anyone, were responsible for the meteoric growth and popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Year in and year out, they continue to produce a stellar example of that wine. … Read more
Dog Point Vineyard, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2021
($22, Vintus Wines): 
Dog Point’s Sauvignon Blanc has been a favorite of mine since Fred Ek, owner of Ex-Cellars, their importer at the time, introduced me to it a couple of decades ago. Dog Point, still family owned, made a delightful one in 2021.… Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2020
($45, Misa Imports, Craig Baker Selection): 
Montagny, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of Burgundy’s famed — and expensive — Côte d’Or has always been an insider’s place to find affordable white Burgundy. With ever increasing prices in Burgundy, it has become and even more popular place for those wines. … Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “Les Margotons” 2020
($38, Misa Imports, Craig Baker Selection): 
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines produced a stunning array of 2020 whites. With this one, they achieved a perfect combination of creamy character associated with Côte de Beaune whites and the stone-y mineral character of Mercurey whites. … Read more
Veramonte, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir Reserva 2020
($14, Gonzalez Byass USA): 
Also made with organically grown grapes, the Veramonte Reserva Pinot Noir is darker and more structured than Alto de Casablanca’s Ritual bottling. It also delivers more savory notes. Taken together, this youthful Pinot Noir calls both for more robust fare and either a year or two in the cellar or an hour in the glass.… Read more
Ritual, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir 2019
($21, Gonzalez Byass USA): 
Made with organically grown grapes, this Pinot Noir conveys an enticing combination of red fruits and savory qualities, all touched with a hint of toasty oak. The suave texture of this fresh and juicy mid-weight Pinot Noir makes it ideal for current consumption, with, say, grilled salmon.… Read more
Alta Vista, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec Single Vineyard, Albaneve 2018
($51, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Like the unnecessarily heavy bottle, this stunning single-vineyard Malbec is a weighty bold wine but with remarkable balance for its size. This robust wine carries its 15 percent stated alcohol well. Suavely textured, it still has enough structure to counter the deep plum-like fruit and slightly alluring tarry elements. … Read more
Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($60): Jordan deserves high praise for never wavering from their course of making full-flavored yet elegant Cabernet Sauvignon. Rob Davis, Jordan’s first and longtime, 1976 to 2019, winemaker, told me he wanted “wines with balance” with low alcohol, not “tannic monsters.” … Read more
Masi, Valpolicella Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Bonacosta” 2020
($17, SM USA): 
Masi, one of the leading Valpolicella/Amarone producers, makes a wonderful range of wines. Made from the usual Valpolicella grapes, Corvina, Rolindella, and Molinara, Masi’s mid-weight Bonacosta, their “regular” (though there’s nothing regular about it) Valpolicella Classico delivers juicy bright cherry flavors. … Read more
Masi, Rosso Verona IGT (Veneto, Italy) “CampoFiorin” 2019
($19, SM USA): In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine. Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone. In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now. … Read more
Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Costasera” 2017
($61, SM USA): Masi’s Costasera Amarone is a big — 15 percent stated alcohol—bold, wintertime wine. Amarone is made using only dried grapes, in contrast to their CampoFiorin, which leads to a higher finished alcohol and more power. There is a hint of sweetness in the finish that balances the wine’s intensity. … Read more
Batasiolo, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Riserva 2012
($82, Palm Bay International): 
In addition to making very fine single vineyard Baroli, Batasiolo makes this Riserva from grapes grown throughout the delimited Barolo region. Indeed, some of the grapes that could have gone into their single vineyard bottlings are used in the Riserva to maintain consistency and quality. … Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Nerello Mascalese “Lavico” 2018
($17, Disaronno International): 
Consumers unfamiliar with Nerello Mascalese, the signature grape of Sicily’s Mount Etna, should grab this bottle. Lava-like mineral notes complement the sour cherry like ones in this mid-weight red. A long an explosive finish reminds you this is a wine to sip and savor. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2021
($12, Palm Bay International): 
Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most main red grape, is worth getting to know because it can deliver an appealing combination of fruitiness mixed with non-fruit elements. Take this one, for example. Its initial delivery is heavy on the fresh, black cherry-like notes. … Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Nerello Mascalese “Lavico” 2018
($17, Disaronno International): Consumers unfamiliar with Nerello Mascalese, the signature grape of Sicily’s Mount Etna, should grab this bottle. Lava-like mineral notes complement the sour cherry like ones in this mid-weight red. A long an explosive finish reminds you this is a wine to sip and savor. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2021
($12, Palm Bay International): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most main red grape, is worth getting to know because it can deliver an appealing combination of fruitiness mixed with non-fruit elements. Take this one, for example. Its initial delivery is heavy on the fresh, black cherry-like notes. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2020
($100, Louis Latour, USA): 
The 7.5- acre Les Perrières vineyard lies high up on the slope in a cooler locale, which may help explain this wine’s bright energy in a hot year like 2020. Though tightly wound, as expected from a young top premier cru, its stature shows with gorgeous mineral-scented aromatics and impressive length. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2020
($117, Louis Latour, USA): 
Wines from Aloxe-Corton, even its premier crus, are overshadowed by grand cru Corton and overlooked by consumers. Do. Not. Overlook. This. Wine. Its fleshy body atop a firm frame of iron-tinged flavors identify it clearly as Aloxe-Corton. … Read more
Vini Franchetti Tenuta di Trinoro, Toscano Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Cupole” 2020
($35): 
Cupole is the second wine of Tenuta di Tinoro, a “Super Tuscan” that commands a three-digit price tag — and the first digit is not a one. Like the first wine, Cupole is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot that varies year to year to years depending on how the individual varieties fare during the growing season. … Read more
Batasiolo, Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Granée” 2021
($23, Palm Bay International): 
Gavi is one of the unsung stars of Italian white wines. This one, from Batasiolo, a top Barolo producer, is made entirely from Cortese grape grown in the village of Gavi, from which the DOCG takes its name.… Read more
Brigaldara, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2020
($35, Vinifera): 
Brigaldara, a family-owned estate since the early 20th century, is one of the leading lights in Valpolicella. The make a stunning array of wines linked by a gracefulness that belies their power. Take this Valpolicella Superiore. It shows a mixture of red and black fruit flavors, but with a healthy dose of savory, non-fruity ones — spices and herbs — that add tremendous intrigue. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Cantina di Brigaldara” 2012
($210, Vinifera): 
This decade-old Amarone has developed beautifully and demonstrates the rewards of aging. I suspect Brigaldara’s 2016 Case Vecie Amarone will develop along these lines, which is why I suggest cellaring it. This 2012 Amarone leads with dazzling aromatics. Then, additional complexity — mature flavors along with fresh and dried dark fruit ones — emerges. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2017
($75, Vinifera): 
Weighing in at 16.5 percent stated alcohol, this broad-shouldered wine is remarkably elegant. Indeed, it’s the elegance you notice, not the power, although that’s hard to ignore. As much as I liked Brigladara’s Valpolicella Classico Casa Vecie, their Amarone just conveys more complexity — a mix of fresh and dried fruit — and power without sacrificing gracefulness. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Cavolo 2017
($70, Vinifera): 
Brigaldara’a Cavolo Amarone display darker fruit flavors and more weight than their straight Amarone, yet maintains their signature elegance and balance. The 16.0 percent stated alcohol is integrated effortlessly into the flavors and weight. There’s no heat or raisiny flavors here, just purity. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2016
($120, Vinifera): 
Despite an extra year of bottle age, Brigaldara’s 2016 Amarone “Case Vecie” is far more youthful than any of their 2017s, showing a more tannic structure. Layers of dark dried and fresh fruit notes along with haunting minerality and their hallmark elegance are all still apparent. … Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Passo delle Mule” 2019
($20, Disaronno International): 
Duca di Salaparuta, one of the oldest wineries in Sicily, introduced many Americans to the value-packed joy of Sicilian wines decades ago with Corvo, which was made with purchased grapes grown all over the island. Well, Duca di Salaparuta has evolved and now makes a bevy of distinctive estate wines. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Red Label” 2019
($48): 
Caprio Cellars focuses on the grapes typically found in red Bordeaux. The extra reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon, 78 versus 62 percent, and no Malbec makes it a fascinating comparison to their “Eleanor.” Here, delightful savory, black olive-like, rather than berry notes dominate. … Read more
Caprio Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) “Eleanor” 2019
($60): 
Dennis P. Murphy, the owner of Caprio, named this seamless Bordeaux blend — his flagship wine — for his grandmother, Eleanor Caprio. This suavely textured Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wine, with Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc lending supporting roles, is fresh and lively. … Read more
Quivira Vineyards, Sonoma County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2021
($19): 
Quivira makes at least four Sauvignon Blancs in various styles. This one shows a straightforward, electricity-filled style that will awaken any palate. There is no hiding the vibrancy and piercing nature behind a patina or oak, or an attempt at mellowing it with Semillon. … Read more
Quivira Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Fig Tree Vineyard 2021
($30): 
Quivira’s Sauvignon Blanc from their Fig Tree Vineyard shows that site and blend combines to make a far more complex wine. The vineyard sits at the confluence of the Wine Creek — I wonder who gave it that name — and Dry Creek, which, according to their website, imparts freshness because of the rocky alluvial soil. … Read more
Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2014
($18, Osborne): 
Bodegas Montecillo, one of Rioja’s most prominent producers, consistently offers great value. Take this Reserva for example. A blend of Tempranillo (90 percent), Garnacha (8 percent) and Mazuelo, it spends two years aging in oak barrels followed by another 18 months in the bottle before release, which explains why the 2014 is the current release. … Read more
Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2011
($22, Osborne): 
Where else but Spain, and particularly Rioja, can you find the glories of a wine with a decade of age that you can afford to buy and enjoy on a regular basis? Properly aged wine has an alluring ying/yang of fruit and non-fruit character enrobed by a silky suaveness that is captivating. … Read more
Cantine Garrone, Vino Rosso (Piedmont, Italy) “Munaloss” 2020
($17): 
Garrone, a small, even tiny, co-operative at the foot of the Alps in the northernmost part of Piedmont, is unusual. The Garrone family works about 7.5 acres of vines themselves and has recruited 50 other growers whose holdings total about 25 acres. … Read more
Cantine Garrone, Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Prünent” 2019
($41): 
One advantage of a co-operative, like Cantine Garrone, is that they have access to old vines. Many of the members of the co-op have small plots that have been in their families for generations. These old-vine plots are too small to commercialize individually, so the farmers send their grapes to the co-op. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) 2020
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Michele Chiarlo, an excellent Piedmont producer known for their Barolo, also makes wine from Barbera, this one and upper level one, labeled La Court, from the Nizza DOCG, which sells for about twice the price (and, I might add, is worth it). … Read more
Fattoria Selvapiana, Chianti Rùfina Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Bucerchiale 2015
($48, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
Chianti Rùfina, along with Chianti Classico, is the best subzone of the greater Chianti denomination. Selvapiana is one of Rùfina’s top producers and Vigneto Bucerchiale is their top wine. So, this wine is a “no-brainer,” especially since it has seven years under its belt and has just hit its drinkable window. … Read more
Cantina di Tortona, Colli Tortonesi Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Timorasso “Piccolo Derthona” 2020
($24, Matchvino): 
Though I reviewed this wine in July 2021, I just enjoyed it again with dinner and felt consumers should know about it. The low-yielding Timorasso grape was popular in the Colli Tortonesi DOC in the pre-phylloxera era but was replaced by the more productive Cortese when growers replanted. … Read more