($45):  It should come as no surprise that Gambal-Work’s Chardonnay should be outstanding, considering the beauty of Alex Gambal’s white Burgundies.  This tightly wound one from the Bentrock vineyard displays a chalky minerality reminiscent of a top Chassagne-Montrachet.  Youthful and reticent, it needs time in the glass to express itself. … Read more

($65):  The Gambal is Alex Gambal, an American who moved to Burgundy in 1993, worked for a wine broker in Beaune, attended enology school there, and eventually established his eponymous winery in 1997.  Over the ensuing 20+ years, he made an array of excellent Burgundies and established himself as a top small producer. … Read more

($65):  The darker, more mineral profile of Gambal-Work’s Bentrock Pinot Noir is reminiscent of a Burgundy from the Côtes de Nuits.  It has the same splendid duality that the Francesca Pinot Noir conveys, but with more black (rather than red) fruit and a deeper, more tar-like mineral component, reflecting a warmer site. … Read more

($20):  Given the massive character of their Cabernet Sauvignon, I expected Sequoia Grove’s Chardonnay to follow in that style, but it doesn’t.  It delivers a balanced package of both richness and restraint.  Good acidity keeps it fresh.  But it’s not so aggressive that you couldn’t enjoy a glass by itself before dinner. … Read more

($46):  Again, an over-sized bottle accurately predicts the size of the wine.  Ripe dark fruit flavors and even a hint of chocolate lead in this robust Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  A few savory notes — spice and herbs — peek out as it sits in the glass. … Read more

($110):  Sullivan Rutherford Estate has included a splash of Merlot (20 percent) and a seasoning of Petit Verdot (2 percent) in this refined Cabernet Sauvignon bottling.  It delivers appealing complexity — a bit of everything and not too much of anything. … Read more

($54):  The grapes for this refined and reserved Chardonnay come from two cool sites.  Roughly two-thirds come from Bald Mountain Vineyard, which is dry farmed and sits atop the second highest point of the Mayacamas Mountains.  The other third comes from the Thornton Vineyard, a cool spot that sits at the base of the Sonoma Mountain. … Read more

($32):  It is no surprise that Roederer Estate makes an exceptional line of sparkling wines in California since they are owned by the quality-driven French Champagne house of Roederer.  In my opinion, Roederer Estate and Schramsberg are California’s best sparkling wine producers. … Read more

($25):  This suave and restrained wine is emblematic of the change in California Chardonnay.  Still fruit focused, it has, thankfully, lost the opulent oaky and sweet character that has given Chardonnay such a bad name.  Good acidity keeps it bright and energetic, making the last sip is as enjoyable as the first. … Read more

($19):  Showing lots of sweet oaky flavors at this stage makes this Sonoma County Zinfandel from Rodney Strong a good choice for smoky BBQ because the sweetness offsets the spice.  Though not over-extracted or overdone, the richness of the wine still has plenty of oomph will stand up to the meat and its accompanied sauce.… Read more

($26):  Dry Creek Vineyard is as reliable a California producer as you can find.  The quality and consistency of their wines reflect the five decades they’ve been at it in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley.  Full disclosure: Zinfandel and Petite Sirah are two of my least favorite varieties because they are all too often overblown. … Read more

($59):  This is one of Gary Farrell’s notable wines in their line-up of consistently impressive single vineyard Pinot Noir.  This mid-weight wine delivers a gorgeous and seamless synthesis of fruit and savory notes.  With marvelous complexity and a glossy texture, it’s a delight to drink now. … Read more

($38):  Dry Creek Vineyard continues their streak of balanced, not overblown, wines with their 2019 bottling of their Old Vine Zinfandel.  It combines an alluring amalgam of subtle sweetness with spicy elements.  Its suave texture makes it immediately enjoyable.  It would be a good choice for spicy Mexican food.… Read more

($50):  Dry Creek Vineyard’s Bordeaux-blend, labeled Mariner, has always been a bargain among that category of California wine.  Their 2018 follows in that tradition.  A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (2/3rds) with Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdon and Cabernet Franc filling out the other third, it is a muscular, but not overwrought, wine. … Read more

($69):  Far Mountain is a new project by two Chileans who have a vast experience in the wine business, the husband and wife team of Mai Errazuriz and Rodrigo Soto.  Mai, from the family that founded Viña Errazuriz, a leading Chilean producer, also has experience in California as marketing director for Quintessa. … Read more

($16):  Easy to sip, this fleshy and fruity Sonoma County Merlot from Rodney Strong displays ripe plum-like flavors wrapped in suave tannins.  It’s especially fine for those who relish a glass of red wine before a meal.
87 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2021… Read more

($17):  Compared to Rodney Strong’s Sonoma County Merlot, this 2018 Cabernet displays more savory — olive-like — notes, as befitting that variety.  It’s still fruit-focused, but with more structure.  Suavely texture, it’s perfect for current consumption.  Have a sip of their 2017 Merlot before dinner and take this Cabernet to the table.… Read more

($58):  Davis Bynum’s Dutton Ranches bottling offers sweeter and riper notes, with more fruitier elements and fewer savory ones compared to their straight Russian River bottling.  It is a more muscular and juicy wine that finishes a touch sweet.  People who crave power in Pinot Noir will embrace it.… Read more

($35):  Davis Bynum was a pioneer with Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley, being the first to bottle a single vineyard example of that wine almost 50 years ago.  This one, despite a stated alcohol of 14.5 percent, is balanced and not overblown or overdone. … Read more

($21):  Rodney Strong’s Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon takes several giant steps up in interest and complexity from the Sonoma County bottling, but thankfully, not at the cost of a big jump in price.  Since the winemaking is similar, this bottling shows the importance of the origin of the grapes. … Read more