($18, Seaview Imports): 
Château de Corcelles, an historic property located just east of Villé-Morgon, produces a range of Beaujolais. They also produce this wine, entirely from Gamay, presumably, from vines that are located just outside of the Beaujolais delimited zone. Though it has the charm of Beaujolais, they can’t legally call it that. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Louis Max, Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2018
($15, HB Wine Imports): 
As this wine shows, wines from the broad Côtes du Rhône appellation can provide an excellent pleasure-to-price ratio. A balanced and lively Grenache and Syrah blend, it has good concentration and the oomph you would expect from the south of France. … Read more
Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2018
($96, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Château de la Maltroye, a consistently reliable producer of both red and white wines, succeeded admirably in 2018. This white, from their monopole, exhibits the broader and weightier minerality characteristic of Chassagne, compared to Puligny. Good acidity balances and amplifies its charms. … Read more
Gallina de Piel, Empordà (Catalonia, Spain) “Roca del Crit” 2018
($30, Bluest Sky Group): 
Roca del Crit (screaming rock) was a place behind El Bulli where, the story goes, David Seijas, the sommelier at that famed restaurant, could escape and scream to relieve tension from work. Roca del Crit is more robust than its stable mate, Mimetic, with a focus more on minerals and earth. … Read more
Gallina de Piel, Calatayud (Aragón, Spain) “Mimetic” 2018
($15, Bluest Sky Group): 
Though I’ve given some background on the Gallina de Piel wines previously, it bears repeating because their wines represent great bargains. So, it’s worth hearing the story again. Two sommeliers, one of whom, David Seijas, worked at El Bulli, named the best restaurant in the world five times by Restaurant magazine, founded Gallina de Piel. … Read more
Herdade do Esporão, Vinho Regional Alentejano (Portugal) “Monte Velho” 2019
($9, Now Wine Imports): 
Looking for value? Look no further than this charming and substantial wine. Weighing in at a modest 13.5 percent-stated alcohol, it delivers dark fruit flavors intertwined with spicy and earthy ones. Suave tannins allow immediate enjoyment. Good acidity keeps it fresh and lively. … Read more
Cantina Sanpaolo, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2017
($20, Enotec Imports, Inc): 
Greco di Tufo, one of Italy’s premier white grapes, is rarely found outside its home in Campania. Sanpaolo’s is an excellent example, full-bodied, yet crisp. It is mineral-infused, reflecting the lava-like residue of Vesuvius. Its acidity imbues it with energy and magnifies its charms. … Read more
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1978
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2021The 1978, a favourite for decades, is now after 40-plus years, on its decline. This ‘orange wine’ still has good depth, providing nuttiness, dried stone fruit-like flavours, and an exotic twinge, all supported by lemony acidity.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1979
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2021The 1979 continues to outshine the 1978 and remains on a plateau. Orange in colour, it delivers a spice box of flavours along with hints of coffee and smoke. A refined wine, it remains balanced and elegant despite bombarding the senses.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1982
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2021Clean and fresh aromas contradict the suspicious orange-y colour. An initial crispness on the palate puts to rest the fear than it is over the hill. Brilliant acidity balances nut-like nuances and dried fruit flavours of maturity.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1989
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025Unbelievable! At 31 years of age, the 1989 retains a bright golden colour without an orange tinge. Displaying a subtle array of apricot-like notes, toasty nuttiness and delicate spice, it enlivens the palate with its amazing freshness.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1990
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025The 1990 and the 1989 have long provided a fascinating comparison, with the former being just a touch riper and the latter a bit more energetic. At 30 years of age, the differences, though less dramatic, remain.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1996
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2022A suspicious orange colour notwithstanding, the 1996, at 24 years of age, was a success both aromatically and on the palate. It was bright and fresh without a hint of unpleasant oxidation despite the colour. Rich and creamy, with nuances of stone fruits, its minerality was still evident.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1997
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2023
The stature of the 1997, a not highly regarded vintage especially for whites, was a complete surprise. Dark straw without a trace of orange, it was amazingly and surprisingly fresh, displaying an alluring and balanced combination of pineapple-like spice and creaminess.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1999
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028Despite its two decades of age, the 1999 remains straw coloured and immediately fresh on the nose. Luxurious richness for which Corton-Charlemagne is known is front and center. Mint-like herbal notes and a firm mineral element add dazzle in the finish.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2002
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2023The 2002 highlights a downside of vertical tastings. By itself, the straw-yellow 2002 is stylish and compelling. But it is overshadowed next to the 2004 and 1999, lacking the precision and elegance of the best. Still, at 18 years, it has marvelous depth and a vibrant balance of fruit and spice.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2004
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031There’s no surprise here. The 2004 remains fabulous as it has been since release. There’s hardly any sign of age, except a darker straw colour. Subtle spice and pineapple-like fruitiness complement its minerality. Paradoxically explosive, it exhibits real finesse and grace, befitting its grand cru status.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2005
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026Though a dark straw colour similar to the 2004, the 2005 is riper, reflecting the vintage, with more melons than spice. Still, characteristic peppery notes come through nicely. Indeed, over the years tasting them side-by-side, the 2005 has always been riper and richer, while the 2004, racier and sleeker.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2008
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031Despite its age, the 2008 takes time to express itself after pulling the cork. Amazingly, it improves as it sits in the glass. Golden yellow, the 2008 delivers a marvelous ying and a yang of white pepper-like spice and pineapple-like fruit.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2009
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028Latour’s steely style explains why the 2009 is another success in a warm year not known for great white wines. Clearly ripe, but without a trace of over ripeness, it displays more pineapple than pepper, retaining elegance despite the richness.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2010
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031The 2010 has a great presence and, along with the 2004 and 2008, is my favourite for drinking now. As would be expected with a decade of age, the colour has taken on a light golden hue and the bouquet is far more developed and immediately apparent.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2011
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025The 2011 is another surprise because it’s the product of arguably the worst year of the decade for whites. Yet, at nearly a decade, it remains youthfully reticent with a still light straw colour and profile.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2013
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2027Still pale straw in color, the 2013 is a surprising success in a difficult year. The richness that comes with maturity is starting to emerge and is nicely balanced by freshness and spice. Long and graceful, this still youthful wine is lovely to drink now.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2015
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030The wine’s pale straw colour and reticent initial impression announces its youth. The spice element is far more apparent than the melon-y one in this tightly wound wine. Beautifully balanced, it blossoms, but remains youthful, as it sits in the glass.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2027 – 2040This youthful wine shows the expected pineapple-like spiciness buttressed by great structure and energy. Pale yellow, it’s surprisingly appealing now, despite its youthful vigour. The sumptuous richness of mature Corton-Charlemagne starts to peek through as it sits in the glass.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036Though the vintage was warm and yields were high – not, one would think, a good combination for a vibrant white wine – the 2018 Corton-Charlemagne is just that. It is yet another example how wine made from great terroirs in the hands of talented producers can turn out fine even under adverse conditions.
Il Poggiolo, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($70, Enotec Imports, Inc): 
A paradox, the traditionally framed Il Poggiolo Brunello marries the ripeness of the 2015 vintage with a lovely austerity. Not a blowsy wine, it combines dark cherry-like fruit with a core of minerals. Importantly, especially for the vintage, it has great acidity, which imparts a wonderful vivacity to the wine. … Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Chalk Hill, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2018
($22): 
It is not surprising that Rodney Strong’s Chalk Hill Chardonnay continues to be an outstanding wine. If anyone knows where to grow Chardonnay in Sonoma, it’s Rodney Strong. He was bottling a Chardonnay under that label before there even was a Chalk Hill AVA. … Read more
Anselmo Mendes, Monção e Melgaço (Vinho Verde, Portugal) Alvarinho “Muros Antigos” 2019
($15): 
Vinho Verde, Portugal’s largest appellation, lies in that country’s northwest corner, bordering Spain. It’s known for racy high-acid wines. Some, sadly, provide little more than acidity. Enter Anselmo Mendes. His Muros Antigos delivers the mouth-cleansing zippy edge, but in addition there’s a lovely floral quality and an engaging lime-like quality. … Read more
Anselmo Mendes, Monção e Melgaço (Vinho Verde, Portugal) “Alvarinho Contacto” 2019
($19): 
Monção e Melgaço, one of the nine official sub-regions of Vinho Verde, lies on the southern border of Galicia, the Spanish province that occupies the northwest corner of the Iberian Peninsula. The Alvarinho grape reigns here. Mendes is a new wave producer aiming to show what can be done with this grape in this sub-region, announcing his wines with a bottle engraved with the name of sub-region, the grape, as well as his name. … Read more
Donnafugata, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Tancredi” 2016
($39, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
While Donnafugata maintains a traditional focus on indigenous Sicilian grapes, such as Nero d’Avola, they also have planted international ones, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, and unusual ones, such as Tannat. Those three grapes comprise the majority of the blend of Tancredi. … Read more
Donnafugata, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) “Floramundi” 2017
($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Cerasuolo di Vittoria, located in southeastern Sicily, is that island’s only DOCG wine. Regulations require that Nero d’Avola comprise at least 50, but no more than 70, percent of the blend. Frappato fills out the blend. … Read more
Jean Pascal et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) “Les Enseignères” 2019
($56, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
This lieu-dit, entitled only to a village appellation, lies across the road, but downhill from the Grand Cru Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet. Even in Jean Pascal’s talented hands, this village wine is not in the Grand Cru category, but it is more impressive than many producers’ premier cru — and at a far more attractive price. … Read more
Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils, Meursault (Burgundy, France) “Les Grands Charrons” 2018
($68, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
It’s hard to go wrong with the wines from Domaine Michel Bouzereau, a leading name in Meursault. Here are my notes for this wine from a visit in November 2019: “Good as most people’s 1er cru. … Read more
Domaine Paul Pernot et ses Fils, Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2019
($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Domaine Paul Pernot, one of the top producers in Puligny-Montrachet, opts to use the new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, for this wine that they formerly labeled as Bourgogne Blanc. The new appellation requires that the grapes come exclusively from the Côte d’Or, the heart of Burgundy.… Read more
Domaine Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaumes 2018
($140, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Vosne-Romanée could be considered the most revered village in Burgundy. Its wines, even those sporting just a village appellation, carry hefty price tags. And with the 25 percent tariffs, the prices are truly extraordinary. That said, this is a pretty extraordinary wine. … Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” Meritage 2016
($55): 
Symmetry, according to Rodney Strong’s website, means balance. And I must admit, this wine is aptly named. It’s a suave complex Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant (70%) blend of five Bordeaux varieties. Roughly equal amounts of Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot fill out the blend. … Read more
Fanetti – Tenuta S. Agnese, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2015
($33, Enotec Imports, Inc): 
Fanetti, one of the great names for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, has produced a fabulous 2015 Riserva from their Tenuta S. Agnese estate. Traditionally framed, that is, not all gussied up with oak and over ripe fruit, the dark cherry-like fruit of Sangiovese shines. … Read more
Buli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Estate 44” 2016
($20, Dark Star Imports): 
Estate 44 pays tribute to the Allied soldiers, including the owner’s father, who liberated Tuscany in the summer of 1944. A blend of Sangiovese (60%) Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and equal amounts of Syrah and Merlot, it is more muscular than Buli’s 515 bottling, but has the same grace, suaveness and structure. … Read more
Buli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese “515” 2016
($20, Dark Star Imports): 
Robert Buly, an American who owns Buli, was drawn to Italy by heritage: his father married an Italian woman from Tuscany soon after WWII ended. On their website, he jokes that his father met his mother while on the search for red wine to drink. … Read more
Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Brut Cuvée NV
($45, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Founded in 1785, this venerable Champagne firm passed into the hands of the Descours family about a decade ago. Its non-vintage Brut has since taken a leap in quality. I remember Piper-Heidsieck as an ordinary Champagne a decade ago, lean and angular. … Read more
Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2018
($58, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Domaine Bart is an A-list producer. Of course, their Grand Cru Bonnes Mares and Charmes-Chambertin are stunning. But, if you are looking for something that does not require taking out a mortgage before purchasing, look to their array of wines from Marsannay, a sleepy village north of Gevrey-Chambertin. … Read more
Domaine René Leclerc, Gevrey-Chambertin (Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France) Clos Prieur 2018
($77, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
The Clos Prieur vineyard, which is just across the road from Mazi-Chambertin, a Grand Cru, covers two appellations. The upper part is Premier Cru and lower part carries a village appellation. But once again, producer can trump geography. … Read more
Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2018
($80, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): This 2018 Clos du Château de la Maltroye, a monopole of the Château de la Maltroye, is one of the best red wines from Chassagne-Montrachet I’ve ever had. It’s the epitome of power and grace. Savory elements complement gorgeous dark fruity ones. … Read more
Gilles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Duresses Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection 2018
($43): 
With prices of Burgundy having gone through the roof, it’s a delight to find one that’s affordable, at least by Burgundy standards. As I’ve long maintained, villages off the beaten path, such as Auxey-Duresses which sits behind Meursault, and talented producers who, for whatever reason, have never gotten the praise they deserve, like Gilles Lafouge, is the combination consumers should seek out. … Read more
Merry Edwards Winery, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2018
($54): 
Changes abound at Merry Edwards Winery, one of California’s leading Pinot Noir producers. In 2019, Louis Roederer, the Champagne house, purchased the winery. With the 2018 vintage, Heidi von der Mehden, who worked with Merry Edwards since 2015, took the reins as winemaker. … Read more
Sullivan Rutherford Estate, Rutherford, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2017
($110): 
This is, in a word, a powerhouse. But along with all the deep black fruit there’s an appealing tar-like mineral and earthy component. Substantial but not intrusive tannins support the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (87 percent) and Petit Verdot. A youthful wine, it needs to sit in the glass to appreciate its complexity. … Read more
Merry Edwards Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2018
($60): 
The riper and deeper Merry Edwards Russian River Valley bottling, whose fruit comes from a variety of vineyards in that warmer AVA, is a fascinating contrast to their Sonoma Coast bottling. A weightier wine with black rather than red fruit tones, the Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is juicy and well within bounds despite a 14.5 percent-stated alcohol. … Read more
Merry Edwards Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2018
($73): 
The floral 2018 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir displays a gorgeous, layered complexity, with minerality and dark fruitiness intertwined. It conveys far more mineral-like nuances than the Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot, reflecting the focus of a single vineyard. Hefty intensity without being over the top coupled with suave tannins and an engaging bitterness in the finish make it hard to resist now.… Read more
Merry Edwards Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2018
($80): 
Unlike the Merry Edwards Klopp Ranch and Olivet Lane Pinot Noirs, the youthful 2018 Meredith Estate displays toasty oak flavors but little else initially. However, befitting a youthful, tightly wound wine, its considerable charms emerge over time. Denser and more concentrated than the other two, it remains balanced and within bounds. … Read more