($54, Miguel Torres USA): 
Named for Manso de Velasco, the Governor of Chile during colonial times and the founder of the city of Curicó, this Cabernet Sauvignon comes exclusively from 100-plus year-old vines grown on the estate of the same name. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Miguel Torres, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Las Mulas” Reserva 2019
($14, Miguel Torres USA): 
Miguel Torres, one of Spain’s leading producers, expanded to Chile in 1979, becoming the first foreign investment in that country’s wine industry, according to their website. Torres introduced the Las Mulas line — the wines are made entirely from organic grapes — in 2010. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2018
($38): 
Full disclosure: Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, which comprise 99 percent of the blend of this wine, are among my least favorite varieties because, when converted to wine, they often display power and little else. So, imagine my surprise when I discovered how well Dry Creek Vineyard manages them. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($45, Taub Family Selections): 
Col d’Orcia, one of the largest producers of Brunello di Montalcino, has proven, time and time again, that quality and quantity can go together. They did it again with their positively stellar 2016 Brunello. The 2016 vintage is outstanding throughout Tuscany.… Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Russian River Selection” 2018
($45): 
Gary Farrell is a winery known for brilliant single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which show that terroir is alive and well in California. This one, however, is a blend to represent the Russian River Valley in general — and it does. … Read more
Sullivan Rutherford Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Coeur de Vigne” 2017
($90): 
Though Coeur de Vigne might suggest highly selected grapes and an over-extracted precious wine, this one is not. Though more immediately appealing — slightly softer and rounder — than their Estate Bottling (previously reviewed), it displays the classic savory-ripe dark fruit mixture for which top Napa Valley Cabernet is known. … Read more
Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
($48): 
Lovely savory, olive-like notes balance the dark fruitiness of this big bold and broad Cabernet. Fine tannins provide structure without being astringent or intrusive. There’s a delightful hint of bitterness in the finish to emphasize this is not a “fruit bomb.” … Read more
Michèle Capdepon, Blanquette de Limoux (Languedoc, France) Brut NV
($20, Wines Of France): 
The Languedoc region of France is a treasure trove for wines, from those labeled Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP, or what was formerly Vin de Pays) to more prestigious ones that carry an appellation, such as this one.… Read more
Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Ste. Claire” 2019
($24): 
Jean-Marc Brocard, one of my favorite producers in Chablis, consistently makes a stunning array of wines. I can’t remember a wine from them that failed to impress. The family-run estate farms organically and shuns the use of new oak barrels because they want to emphasize the character the site imparts to the grapes. … Read more
Bodega Trivento, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec Reserve 2019
($12): 
This lighter styled Malbec will appeal especially to those who find most Malbecs too overpowering or heavy. Still, it has good concentration despite its lack of muscularity. Savory, smoke-y undertones balance the dark fruity profile. Suave, mild tannins mean this is a wine to enjoy now. … Read more
Raeburn Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2019
($25): 
A whiff of savory notes peek out from the ripe Sonoma fruit lending intrigue to this Pinot Noir. A touch of heat and sweetness in the finish reflects the stated 14.5 percent alcohol. Mild tannins allow you to enjoy it with grilled salmon.… Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Meritage 2018
($32): 
Dry Creek Vineyard, still owned by the Stare family, is approaching their half-century mark of making wine in Dry Creek Valley. Though I’ve always been a fan of their balanced wines, I think they are just getting better and better. … Read more
Ai Galli, Delle Venezie DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019
($12): 
Ai Galli also shows their talents with a bargain-priced “entry-level,” as they call it, Pinot Grigio. Fresh and floral wine, it has a captivating delicacy. This clean crisp Pinot Grigio finishes with a welcoming hint of bitterness. And look at the price. … Read more
Cantina Kaltern, Kalterersee Classico Superiore DOC (Alto Adige, Italy) “Quintessenz” 2017
($34, Enotec Imports, Inc): 
Since this DOC is not well-known to most Americans (I had to run to the reference books), a little background. The DOC is named for a large lake that lies within Alto Adige. “Classico,” as usual in the Italian DOC nomenclature, refers to the original or heart of the area. … Read more
Celli, Romagna Albana Secco DOCG (Italy) “I Croppi” 2019
($20): 
The Albana grape is uniquely suited to the Bertinoro subregion of Romagna where Celli is located thanks to the calcium rich soil, locally known as spungone, a vestige of its underwater location 3.5 million years ago. Celli’s 2019 I Croppi is outstanding. … Read more
Domaine Antonin Guyon, Delle Venezie DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019
($12): Ai Galli also shows their talents with a bargain-priced “entry-level,” as they call it, Pinot Grigio. Fresh and floral wine, it has a captivating delicacy. This clean crisp Pinot Grigio finishes with a welcoming hint of bitterness. And look at the price. … Read more
Merry Edwards Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($38): 
Merry Edwards, one of California top Pinot Noir producers, is also making a name for herself with Sauvignon Blanc. Edwards’ working with Sauvignon Blanc should come as no surprise since she was responsible for the legendary ones from Matanzas Creek when she was the winemaker there. … Read more
Thierry Germain / Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur Champigny (Loire Valley, France) Clos de L’Échelier 2018
($70, Vineyard Road): 
Thierry Germain at Domaine des Roches Neuves is one of the Loire’s young superstars. He makes a range of reds from Cabernet Franc, as is the tradition in Saumur Champigny. This one, one of his top cuvées, comes from a 4.5-acre terraced plot of 70-year old vines. … Read more
Château de Corcelles, Vin de France (France) Gamay “Les Copains d’Abord” 2018
($18, Seaview Imports): 
Château de Corcelles, an historic property located just east of Villé-Morgon, produces a range of Beaujolais. They also produce this wine, entirely from Gamay, presumably, from vines that are located just outside of the Beaujolais delimited zone. Though it has the charm of Beaujolais, they can’t legally call it that. … Read more
Louis Max, Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2018
($15, HB Wine Imports): 
As this wine shows, wines from the broad Côtes du Rhône appellation can provide an excellent pleasure-to-price ratio. A balanced and lively Grenache and Syrah blend, it has good concentration and the oomph you would expect from the south of France. … Read more
Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2018
($96, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): 
Château de la Maltroye, a consistently reliable producer of both red and white wines, succeeded admirably in 2018. This white, from their monopole, exhibits the broader and weightier minerality characteristic of Chassagne, compared to Puligny. Good acidity balances and amplifies its charms. … Read more
Gallina de Piel, Empordà (Catalonia, Spain) “Roca del Crit” 2018
($30, Bluest Sky Group): 
Roca del Crit (screaming rock) was a place behind El Bulli where, the story goes, David Seijas, the sommelier at that famed restaurant, could escape and scream to relieve tension from work. Roca del Crit is more robust than its stable mate, Mimetic, with a focus more on minerals and earth. … Read more
Gallina de Piel, Calatayud (Aragón, Spain) “Mimetic” 2018
($15, Bluest Sky Group): 
Though I’ve given some background on the Gallina de Piel wines previously, it bears repeating because their wines represent great bargains. So, it’s worth hearing the story again. Two sommeliers, one of whom, David Seijas, worked at El Bulli, named the best restaurant in the world five times by Restaurant magazine, founded Gallina de Piel. … Read more
Herdade do Esporão, Vinho Regional Alentejano (Portugal) “Monte Velho” 2019
($9, Now Wine Imports): 
Looking for value? Look no further than this charming and substantial wine. Weighing in at a modest 13.5 percent-stated alcohol, it delivers dark fruit flavors intertwined with spicy and earthy ones. Suave tannins allow immediate enjoyment. Good acidity keeps it fresh and lively. … Read more
Cantina Sanpaolo, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2017
($20, Enotec Imports, Inc): 
Greco di Tufo, one of Italy’s premier white grapes, is rarely found outside its home in Campania. Sanpaolo’s is an excellent example, full-bodied, yet crisp. It is mineral-infused, reflecting the lava-like residue of Vesuvius. Its acidity imbues it with energy and magnifies its charms. … Read more
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1978
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2021The 1978, a favourite for decades, is now after 40-plus years, on its decline. This ‘orange wine’ still has good depth, providing nuttiness, dried stone fruit-like flavours, and an exotic twinge, all supported by lemony acidity.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1979
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2021The 1979 continues to outshine the 1978 and remains on a plateau. Orange in colour, it delivers a spice box of flavours along with hints of coffee and smoke. A refined wine, it remains balanced and elegant despite bombarding the senses.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1982
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2021Clean and fresh aromas contradict the suspicious orange-y colour. An initial crispness on the palate puts to rest the fear than it is over the hill. Brilliant acidity balances nut-like nuances and dried fruit flavours of maturity.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1989
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025Unbelievable! At 31 years of age, the 1989 retains a bright golden colour without an orange tinge. Displaying a subtle array of apricot-like notes, toasty nuttiness and delicate spice, it enlivens the palate with its amazing freshness.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1990
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025The 1990 and the 1989 have long provided a fascinating comparison, with the former being just a touch riper and the latter a bit more energetic. At 30 years of age, the differences, though less dramatic, remain.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1996
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2022A suspicious orange colour notwithstanding, the 1996, at 24 years of age, was a success both aromatically and on the palate. It was bright and fresh without a hint of unpleasant oxidation despite the colour. Rich and creamy, with nuances of stone fruits, its minerality was still evident.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1997
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2023
The stature of the 1997, a not highly regarded vintage especially for whites, was a complete surprise. Dark straw without a trace of orange, it was amazingly and surprisingly fresh, displaying an alluring and balanced combination of pineapple-like spice and creaminess.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 1999
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028Despite its two decades of age, the 1999 remains straw coloured and immediately fresh on the nose. Luxurious richness for which Corton-Charlemagne is known is front and center. Mint-like herbal notes and a firm mineral element add dazzle in the finish.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2002
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2023The 2002 highlights a downside of vertical tastings. By itself, the straw-yellow 2002 is stylish and compelling. But it is overshadowed next to the 2004 and 1999, lacking the precision and elegance of the best. Still, at 18 years, it has marvelous depth and a vibrant balance of fruit and spice.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2004
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031There’s no surprise here. The 2004 remains fabulous as it has been since release. There’s hardly any sign of age, except a darker straw colour. Subtle spice and pineapple-like fruitiness complement its minerality. Paradoxically explosive, it exhibits real finesse and grace, befitting its grand cru status.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2005
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026Though a dark straw colour similar to the 2004, the 2005 is riper, reflecting the vintage, with more melons than spice. Still, characteristic peppery notes come through nicely. Indeed, over the years tasting them side-by-side, the 2005 has always been riper and richer, while the 2004, racier and sleeker.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2008
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031Despite its age, the 2008 takes time to express itself after pulling the cork. Amazingly, it improves as it sits in the glass. Golden yellow, the 2008 delivers a marvelous ying and a yang of white pepper-like spice and pineapple-like fruit.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2009
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028Latour’s steely style explains why the 2009 is another success in a warm year not known for great white wines. Clearly ripe, but without a trace of over ripeness, it displays more pineapple than pepper, retaining elegance despite the richness.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2010
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031The 2010 has a great presence and, along with the 2004 and 2008, is my favourite for drinking now. As would be expected with a decade of age, the colour has taken on a light golden hue and the bouquet is far more developed and immediately apparent.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2011
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025The 2011 is another surprise because it’s the product of arguably the worst year of the decade for whites. Yet, at nearly a decade, it remains youthfully reticent with a still light straw colour and profile.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2013
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2027Still pale straw in color, the 2013 is a surprising success in a difficult year. The richness that comes with maturity is starting to emerge and is nicely balanced by freshness and spice. Long and graceful, this still youthful wine is lovely to drink now.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2015
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030The wine’s pale straw colour and reticent initial impression announces its youth. The spice element is far more apparent than the melon-y one in this tightly wound wine. Beautifully balanced, it blossoms, but remains youthful, as it sits in the glass.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2017
Drinking Window: 2027 – 2040This youthful wine shows the expected pineapple-like spiciness buttressed by great structure and energy. Pale yellow, it’s surprisingly appealing now, despite its youthful vigour. The sumptuous richness of mature Corton-Charlemagne starts to peek through as it sits in the glass.
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036Though the vintage was warm and yields were high – not, one would think, a good combination for a vibrant white wine – the 2018 Corton-Charlemagne is just that. It is yet another example how wine made from great terroirs in the hands of talented producers can turn out fine even under adverse conditions.
Il Poggiolo, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($70, Enotec Imports, Inc): 
A paradox, the traditionally framed Il Poggiolo Brunello marries the ripeness of the 2015 vintage with a lovely austerity. Not a blowsy wine, it combines dark cherry-like fruit with a core of minerals. Importantly, especially for the vintage, it has great acidity, which imparts a wonderful vivacity to the wine. … Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Chalk Hill, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2018
($22): 
It is not surprising that Rodney Strong’s Chalk Hill Chardonnay continues to be an outstanding wine. If anyone knows where to grow Chardonnay in Sonoma, it’s Rodney Strong. He was bottling a Chardonnay under that label before there even was a Chalk Hill AVA. … Read more
Anselmo Mendes, Monção e Melgaço (Vinho Verde, Portugal) Alvarinho “Muros Antigos” 2019
($15): 
Vinho Verde, Portugal’s largest appellation, lies in that country’s northwest corner, bordering Spain. It’s known for racy high-acid wines. Some, sadly, provide little more than acidity. Enter Anselmo Mendes. His Muros Antigos delivers the mouth-cleansing zippy edge, but in addition there’s a lovely floral quality and an engaging lime-like quality. … Read more
Anselmo Mendes, Monção e Melgaço (Vinho Verde, Portugal) “Alvarinho Contacto” 2019
($19): 
Monção e Melgaço, one of the nine official sub-regions of Vinho Verde, lies on the southern border of Galicia, the Spanish province that occupies the northwest corner of the Iberian Peninsula. The Alvarinho grape reigns here. Mendes is a new wave producer aiming to show what can be done with this grape in this sub-region, announcing his wines with a bottle engraved with the name of sub-region, the grape, as well as his name. … Read more
Donnafugata, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Tancredi” 2016
($39, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
While Donnafugata maintains a traditional focus on indigenous Sicilian grapes, such as Nero d’Avola, they also have planted international ones, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, and unusual ones, such as Tannat. Those three grapes comprise the majority of the blend of Tancredi. … Read more
Donnafugata, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) “Floramundi” 2017
($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Cerasuolo di Vittoria, located in southeastern Sicily, is that island’s only DOCG wine. Regulations require that Nero d’Avola comprise at least 50, but no more than 70, percent of the blend. Frappato fills out the blend. … Read more