($30): 
Why is this wine so captivating? Maybe it’s because the grapes came from dry-farmed organic vineyards. Or maybe because they came from old vines. Or maybe it’s the unique field blend of Carignan and French Colombard, which is then blended with Grenache. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Donnafugata, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2018
($40, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Made entirely from Carricante, Donnafugata’s Etna Bianco displays an immediately engaging floral component. A crisp and chiseled wine, it captures the best elements of that grape. This paradoxically vibrant, yet restrained, wine starts to blossom after 30 minutes in the glass. … Read more
Donnafugata, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2017
($35, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Donnafugata’s Etna Rosso, a blend of Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio, is a seductive mid-weight red that marries red fruit flavors with a distinct lava-like minerality. Not an opulent wine, it has a lovely austerity without being hard or astringent. … Read more
Donnafugata, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Fragore” 2017
($85, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
The grapes for Donnafugata’s Fragore hail from the Contrada Montelaguardia. Made entirely from Nerello Mascalese, it is denser than Sul Vulcano Rosso, but paradoxically, still displays a wonderful austerity. This is no fruit bomb. Indeed, the power and concentration have a lava-tinged savory character. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut NV
($30, Quintessential Wines): 
Founded in 1836, Gustave Lorentz’s roots go back to the mid 17th century when the family was involved in barrel making and brokering wine. Today, they are recognized as one of Alsace’s top producers. Their Riesling from the Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim vineyard — they own a third of the vineyard — is always a sensational wine. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut Rosé NV
($30, Quintessential Wines): 
All Crémant d’Alsace is made by the traditional Champagne method, that is, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. What’s unique about Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, unlike other Crémant Rosé, such as Crémant de Bourgogne, for example, is that it must be made entirely from Pinot Noir. … Read more
Domaine Louis Jadot, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrieres, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034Jadot’s parcel lies near the top of the Les Perrières Dessus lieu-dit, a cooler site, which explains, in part, why this wine has such brilliant acidity, and, as a consequence, incredible length. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier also notes that they blocked the malolactic fermentation, preserving the more prominent malic acid in the wine.
Hugues Beaulieu / Kysela Père et Fils, Picpoul de Pine (Languedoc, France) 2019
($9, Kysela Père et Fils): 
It’s tough to figure out who is the producer of this wine. The importer’s name, Kysela Père et Fils, figures prominently on the front label above the letters HB. It turns out that the HB stands for Hugues Beaulieu, a co-operative which also carries the name Les Costières de Pomérols. … Read more
Tormaresca, Salento IGT (Puglia, Italy) Primitivo “Torcicoda” 2017
($20, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): 
You know there must be potential for excellent wine in Puglia, the heel of the Italian boot, when Antinori establishes an outpost, Tormaresca, there. The region is known for big reds, like this one, made from the Primitivo grape, which genetically is identical to Zinfandel. … Read more
Hugues Beaulieu / Kysela Père et Fils, Picpoul de Pine (Languedoc, France) 2019
($9, Kysela Père et Fils): It’s tough to figure out who is the producer of this wine. The importer’s name, Kysela Père et Fils, figures prominently on the front label above the letters HB. It turns out that the HB stands for Hugues Beaulieu, a co-operative which also carries the name Les Costières de Pomérols. … Read more
Palmer & Co, Champagne (France) Brut Réserve NV
($60, Quintessential Wines): 
I was unaware of this Champagne house until recently. After tasting this beautiful bubbly, I’m glad I’ve been introduced. At the outset, it’s important to note, its name notwithstanding, it has no connection to either Château Palmer in Margaux or Palmer Vineyards on Long Island. … Read more
Palmer & Co, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs, Brut NV
($90, Quintessential Wines): 
The grapes for this 100 percent Chardonnay come from Villers-Marmery and Trepail, two 1er Cru villages in the Montagne de Reims, a region otherwise known for Pinot Noir, and the Côte de Sézanne, a sub-region of Champagne just south of the Côte des Blancs. … Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) “Domaine des Rosiers” 2019
($27, Quintessential Wines): 
Wines from Moulin-à-Vent tend to be the sturdiest of all Beaujolais crus because of the granitic soil in that area. And there’s no doubt that you can taste and feel its presence in this wine. This Moulin-à-Vent, the most mineral-y of this trio of DuBoeuf Beaujolais crus, finishes with a balancing and welcome hint of bitterness. … Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py “Jean-Ernest Descombes” 2019
($35, Quintessential Wines): 
The Côte du Py, a blue-stone slope, is the best-known subregion within the Morgon appellation. Gamay grown here takes on a firm and distinct mineral-like character, which often takes a couple of years to soften. However, the warmth of the 2019 vintage brought out a ripe bright dark cherry-like fruit in this Côte du Py. … Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Juliénas (Beaujolais, France) “Château des Capitans” 2019
($23, Quintessential Wines): 
Juliénas is one of the 10 crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais that labels the wine with the village name, omitting Beaujolais entirely. In addition to his “flower label” bottlings of Beaujolais, DuBoeuf produces or commercializes a bevy of notable ones, such as this one. … Read more
Tapiz, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec San Pablo Vineyard 2018
($18, Vino del Sol): 
Full disclosure: I am underwhelmed by most Malbecs, which are heavy, monotonic red wines. Imagine my surprise and delight with this one. Perhaps it’s the 4,200 feet above sea level vineyard, which allows enormous sunlight without great heat. … Read more
Tapiz, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) San Pablo Vineyard “Selección de Barricas” 2012
($38, Vino del Sol): 
While I am usually underwhelmed by most monovarietal Malbec bottlings, that grape works beautifully in red blends, such as this one. Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec each account for about a third of the blend, while Merlot and Syrah comprise the remainder. … Read more
Zolo, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
($13, Vino del Sol): 
Though focused on black fruit flavors, this clean and pure Cabernet Sauvignon avoids the trap of being a fruit bomb. Weighing in at a modest 13.6 percent stated alcohol, it also shows restraint, allowing just a hint of sweet oak to come through. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2019
($25): 
Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio? Same grape but different styles of wine. Naumes has, in a near magical way, combined the best of both styles with this alluring wine. It delivers the luxurious pear-like flavor associated with Pinot Gris with the delicate weight often found with Pinot Grigio. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “GSM” 2018
($40): 
Naumes included Petite Sirah in their 2018 GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend), which somehow, thankfully, does not make the wine denser than usual. It’s a charming light red bursting with spiced wild strawberry-like flavors. For all the muscle you might think those varieties are capable of providing, this spritely GSM dances on the palate. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “SMP” 2018
($40): 
While Naumes’ GSM, a traditional Mediterranean blend, their SMP (Syrah, Mourvèdre and Petite Sirah) is more unusual. Replacing Grenache with Petite Sirah changes the character entirely, creating a muscular, black-fruited wine. Naumes, as always, avoids getting carried away. They’ve created a bold, yet not overdone, red that delivers a wonderful combination of plum and pepper notes wrapped in fine tannins. … Read more
Steele Wines, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Parmelee Hill Vineyard 2018
($38): 
Though the oak in this large-framed Chardonnay is immediately noticeable — a hint of bacon fat — it is not intrusive or overwhelming. Indeed, it’s a balanced wine redolent with melon-like fruitiness and bright acidity that keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. … Read more
Villa Matilde, Falerno del Massico DOC (Campania, Italy) 2016
($32, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Falerno del Massico, a small (not even 250 acres) DOC in Campania, retains appeal, in part, because Falerno was considered the great wine of ancient Rome. With its lava-like underpinnings, Villa Matilde’s, made from a traditional Campania blend of Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso, reflects its origins at the foot of the volcano, Roccamonfina. … Read more
Villa Matilde, Campania IGP (Italy) Aglianico “Rocca dei Leoni” 2017
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Aglianico, the grape known for heavyweight wines, such as Taurasi, bottled under screwcap? Who would have guessed Aglianico-lite would work — but, in Villa Matilde’s hands, it does. This light to mid-weight red (not a description used very often for Aglianico) delivers engaging hints of tar alongside fine tannins. … Read more
Tenuta Sant’Anna, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2020
($17, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
At first blush, pun intended, you’d be forgiven for thinking Rosé Prosecco is a marketing tool combining two hot categories of wine. But this one is a serious wine. It has a substantial presence. You can’t help but take note of it. … Read more
Tenuta di Arceno, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2017
($31): 
Tenuta di Arceno managed to succeed in a difficult vintage. Their bold style worked well in 2017 because they captured ripeness, good acidity and suave tannins simultaneously. Though rich and fruity, a subtly haunting bitterness in the finish reminds us, thankfully, it’s not just about fruit. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Riparossso” 2019
($18, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Illuminati, one of the leading producers in Abruzzo, makes a range of wines from the Montepulciano grape. This one focuses on the dark fruit tones that the Montepulciano variety can display. Its fleshiness, coupled with mild tannins, makes this mid-weight red a good choice for current consumption.… Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Ilico” 2018
($24, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
This Riserva, made from a selection of the best Montepulciano grapes, is real step up from this house’s other, entry-level releases: there’s much more going on here. Not bigger or bolder, it’s just broader and more layered. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Lumeggio di Rosso” 2019
($18, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
This is a differently styled Montepulciano from Illuminati’s Riparossso, highlighting the more herbal and savory side of that grape. Despite similar weight and concentration, it’s a more aromatic and energetic wine, which makes it a fine choice for current consumption with a sausage-infused tomato sauce for pasta.… Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) Riserva “Zanna” 2015
($38, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Colline Teramane, the hills around Teramano, in the north of Abruzzo, neighboring the Marche, is Abruzzo’s sole DOCG. Judging from this line-up of Illuminati’s wines, it certainly deserves that accolade based on the quality of this release. … Read more
Côté Mas, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) NV
($17, Taub Family Selections): 
Limoux, a village in the foothills of the Pyrenes in southwestern France, has a long tradition — likely longer even than Champagne — for making sparkling wines. Côté Mas, led by Jean-Claude Mas and his encompassing 15 properties covering about 2,000 acres, is one of the leading producers in the Languedoc. … Read more
Château Surain, Bordeaux (France) 2019
($11): 
With its 15 percent-stated alcohol, this deeply colored and broad-based, bold Bordeaux emphasizes ripe and lush fruitiness, yet has sufficient balancing herbal character. Good acidity keeps it fresh and a pleasant hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its character. … Read more
Los Vascos, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Chardonnay 2020
($14, Taub Family Selections): 
Los Vascos consistently produces an excellent-value Chardonnay. The 2020 fits that mold. Zesty acidity balances delicate tropical fruit-like flavors in this mid-weight Chardonnay. Those looking for the rich, buttery style should look elsewhere. Those who want a spritely rendition will love it and its price. … Read more
Los Vascos, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Cromas” Gran Reserva 2018
($22, Taub Family Selections): 
This Cromas Gran Reserva is the new name for Los Vascos’ mid-level Cabernet Sauvignon, below Le Dix in stature, but above their straight Cabernet. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) with Syrah and Carménère, it’s ripe and plush. … Read more
I Saltari, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2015
($30, Romano Brands): 
I Saltari, part of the highly-acclaimed Sartori di Verona wine group, releases their Valpolicella Superiore when they think it’s ready to drink. That explains why the 2015 is the current vintage on the retail market and tastes nothing like most Valpolicella. … Read more
Grignano, Chianti Rufina DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($24, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Consumers sometimes forget there are sub-zones other than Chianti Classico in the greater Chianti area that spreads between Florence and Siena. The Chianti Rufina area, just to the northeast of Florence, is home to some wonderful wines, including this one from Grignano. … Read more
Louis Jadot, Côte de Beaune-Villages, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026Warm vintages such as 2018, provide less prestigious appellations, such as this one, with often-needed ripeness which enhances their appeal. Though a négociant bottling, winemaker Frédéric Barnier included some declassified estate fruit from Santenay, Monthélie, Chorey- and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which likely accounts for the wine’s density.
Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Beaumonts, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028Chorey lès Beaune has no 1er cru and much of its vineyards lie on the other side of the D974 road connecting Dijon and Beaune. Les Beaumonts climat, however, lies on the ‘good’ side of the road, nestled between Aloxe-Corton and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which perhaps explains part of the nexpected grandeur for this unassuming village wine.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune, 1er Cru Chouacheux, Burgundy, 1995
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2025The 1er Cru Chouacheux lies near the bottom of the slope, just below Vignes Franches, in the southern portion of Beaune, an area known for more muscular wines. This 1995 has developed marvelously, displaying clean mushroomy nuances.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton Les Pougets Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036Jadot’s Pinot Noir in the Corton Les Pougets climat (also the site for their Corton-Charlemagne) is planted high up on the slope and faces south, which likely explains its consistent ripeness. The 2018 is, like Jadot’s other 2018 Côte de Beaune bottlings, wonderfully fresh and lively, balancing its iron-tinged fleshiness.
Domaine Louis Jadot, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2002
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2031 At nearly 20 years of age, Jadot’s fabulous 2002 Bonnes Mares is just starting to show a hint of maturity. It conveys the Chambolle plushness combined with a crushed stone mineral component. For all its depth and power, its finesse is what makes this wine memorable.Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune, 1er Cru Clos des Ursules, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2033Still owned by the Jadot family, (hence, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot), this 2.8 hectare walled plot included within the 1er cru Vignes Franches, is Jadot’s flagship Beaune bottling. The 2018, to my mind, is one of the best Clos des Ursules Jadot has ever made – it is explosive, delivering both power and finesse, buttressed by freshness.
Domaine Louis Jadot, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036Jadot’s 0.4 hectares of this prized site lies near the top of the slope and densely planted (10,000 vines/ha). The 2018 came in at 14 percent alcohol, reflecting a rare level of ripeness, but nonetheless, displays marvelous acidity, which keeps the wine full of energy.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Clos de la Croix de Pierre, Pernand-Vergelesses, 1er Cru En Caradeux, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026Jadot typically transforms Chardonnay from this east-facing parcel in the 1er cru En Caradeux climat into a readily accessible wine. The overt and forward 2018 fits that mould, delivering a ripe fruitiness buttressed by fresh minerality.
Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Le Clos Blanc, Beaune, 1er Cru Grèves, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2030Pierre-Henry Gagey’s grandfather planted Chardonnay in this vineyard about 70 years ago. Then, Pierre-Henry’s father purchased another 0.8 hectares, which they planted entirely to Chardonnay. One of few fine white wines from Beaune, Le Clos Blanc is always a generous wine.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2011
Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026At a decade of age, this Jadot Corton-Charlemagne is a stunning surprise from this poorly-regarded vintage. Bright, fresh and long, it delivers distinct minerality, depth and an alluring hint of orange-rind spice. It’s a beautifully developed Corton-Charlemagne that is just hitting its stride and shows no signs of fading soon.
Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers, Les Demoiselles, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034Maison Louis Jadot owns half of this 1.05 hectare lieu-dit that lies on the northern end of the Chevalier-Montrachet climat (Maison Louis Latour owns the other half). Typically, it is stonier and firmer with less richness compared to Montrachet itself.
Domaine Louis Jadot, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrieres, Burgundy, 2018
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034Jadot’s parcel lies near the top of the Les Perrières Dessus lieu-dit, a cooler site, which explains, in part, why this wine has such brilliant acidity, and, as a consequence, incredible length. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier also notes that they blocked the malolactic fermentation, preserving the more prominent malic acid in the wine.
Simonnet-Febvre, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2018
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Simonnet-Febvre, a leading Chablis-based grower and négociant, sees plenty of potential for Irancy. They bottle this one as well as two from the lieux-dits of Paradis and Veaupessiot. The 2018 Irancy, a field blend of Pinot Noir and César, shows considerable depth despite a lower stated alcohol -13% -than expected for the hot 2018 vintage.
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “Triolet 2018
($40): 
A blend of Barbera (60%) and equal parts Malbec and Grenache, Triolet makes a fascinating contrast to Naumes’ straight Barbera. This wine delivers with more power with less focus. Unsurprisingly, given the inclusion of Malbec, it’s more muscular, with smokey nuances. … Read more