($26, Quintessential Wines): 
Rioja is one of the very few regions of the world where consumers can find well-aged wines at reasonable prices, and sometimes, like this one, ridiculously low ones. Where else could you find a decade old red at this price? … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Viu Manent, Valle de Colchagua (Chile) Malbec “Secreto de Viu Manent” 2019
($14, Baystate Imports): 
Though considered Argentina’s signature red, Malbec is grown all over the world. This rendition, from neighboring Chile, is a lighter style of Malbec, weighing in at a modest 13.5 % stated-alcohol. A hint of earthy nuances balances its fruitiness. … Read more
Tablas Creek Vineyard, Adelaida District, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Vermentino 2020
($27): 
Tablas Creek Vineyard needs no introduction to wine lovers. This property, founded in 1989 by the Perrin family of Château Beaucastel (an iconic Châteauneuf-du-Pape producer) in partnership with wine importer Robert Hass of Vineyard Brands, was a pioneer and leading force in what is now California’s success with Rhone-type varieties. … Read more
Vila Nova, Douro DOC (Portugal) Red Blend 2018
($12, Quintessential Wines): 
Portugal has always been the place to find value-packed reds and whites. Here is another example of one that over delivers for the price. This big red, made from a blend of traditional Portuguese grapes, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (40 percent each) and Touriga Franca, is a good choice for food coming off the grill this summer. … Read more
Quinta do Crasto, Douro DOC (Portugal) “Superior” 2016
($25, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Lenor and Jorge Roquette represent the fourth generation of family ownership of Quinta do Crasto after assuming majority ownership in 1981. They expanded from making Port to making dry red wine, which is more and more common now along the steep banks of the Douro River. … Read more
Quinta do Crasto, Douro DOC (Portugal) Vinhas Velhas 2016
($42, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Grapes from a mix of 25 to 30 varieties grown on vines averaging 70 years of age were the source for this hefty, well-structured wine. There’s more complexity here than this producer’s refined Touriga Nacional, which I suspect comes from the blend and the age of the vines, but less elegance at this stage of its development. … Read more
Quinta do Crasto, Douro DOC (Portugal) Touriga Nacional 2016
($78, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Quinta do Crasto has produced this wine made exclusively from Touriga Nacional, the Douro’s most prestigious grape, only a dozen times this century. Though bigger and bolder than their Douro Superior, it is far more elegant with suave, silky tannins. … Read more
Casa da Tapada, Vinho Verde DOC (Portugal) Loureiro “Grande Escolha” 2018
($25): 
In the past, Vinho Verde, literally “green wine,” frequently delivered little more than enamel clearing acidity. That has changed, as Casa da Tapada’s rendition shows. It maintains the fresh and crisp signature for which the area is known, but adds an engaging floral and fruity component. … Read more
Firriato, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Le Sabbie Dell’Etna” 2019
($21): 
The regulations for Etna Bianco require at least 60 percent Carricante in the blend. Firriato opts to blend another autochthonous grape, Catarratto, with Carricante for this Etna Bianco. The result is a fruitier, somewhat richer, Etna Bianco with less of the cutting saline-minerality for which Carricante is known. … Read more
Luca Bosio, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Arneis 2020
($19, Quintessential Wines): 
Arneis, a grape found nowhere in Italy except Piedmont, makes one of that country’s overlooked white wines. The Oxford Companion to Wine informs us that is used to be blended with Nebbiolo to soften Barolo and gained the informal local tag of “Barolo Bianco.” … Read more
Caves de Beblenheim, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Heimberger Blanc de Noirs NV
($18, Votto Vines Importing): 
A Crémant d’Alsace Rosé is as safe a bet as you can get for a well-priced pink bubbly because regulations require it be made entirely from Pinot Noir. Moreover, believe it or not, Pinot Noir does well in Alsace, especially now with the enhanced ripening due to climate change. … Read more
Concha y Toro, Marchigüe (Colchagua Valley, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva “Serie Riberas” 2019
($17, Eagle Peak Estates): 
The heart of Chile’s Colchagua Valley, one of the prime areas for growing red varieties, lies 30 miles or so inland, east of the Pacific Ocean. Marchigüe, a lesser-known area with the Colchagua Valley, sits on the cooler coast. … Read more
Russiz Superiore, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2019
($27, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
Marco Felluga, the man in charge at Russiz Superiore, is a good name to remember for top-notch wines. In addition to a seductive texture, this 2019 Friulano has good power without a trace of heaviness. Nuances of orange-rind poke through and complement its fruitiness and spice. … Read more
Colmello di Grotta, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2018
($17): 
Ribolla Gialla, a late ripening variety, is typically the last white grape harvested, sometimes even after the first of the reds are ripe. Despite that, it holds its acidity exceptionally well. It’s a misunderstood variety because it can be transformed into two very different styles of wine. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Clarksburg (California) Dry Chenin Blanc 2018
($16): 
Dry Creek Vineyard has been making a dry Chenin Blanc for since their founding, almost 50 years ago because David Stare, Dry Creek’s founder, fell in love with wines from the Loire Valley — where Chenin Blanc is king. Dry Creek’s 2018 continues its streak as a consistently delightful wine. … Read more
Livon, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Bianco “Cavezzo” 2018
($40): 
Pinot Bianco often makes light, innocuous wines. Not this one. Livon’s 2018 Cavezzo has weight and an alluring texture. A hint of grapefruit-rind bitterness in a lively finish enhances its appeal. This stylish Pinot Bianco has surprising complexity and could redefine the category for you. … Read more
Russiz Superiore, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2019
($27, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Marco Felluga, the man in charge at Russiz Superiore, is a good name to remember for top-notch wines. In addition to a seductive texture, this 2019 Friulano has good power without a trace of heaviness. Nuances of orange-rind poke through and complement its fruitiness and spice. … Read more
Colmello di Grotta, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Ribolla Gialla 2018
($17): Ribolla Gialla, a late ripening variety, is typically the last white grape harvested, sometimes even after the first of the reds are ripe. Despite that, it holds its acidity exceptionally well. It’s a misunderstood variety because it can be transformed into two very different styles of wine. … Read more
Geografico, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Borgo alla Terra” 2020
($12): 
This is a great example of the straightforward — fruity and fragrant — style of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Its youthful crispness is emphasized by a delightful salty rather than lemony acidity, which keeps it fresh and lively. Daniele Cernilli, one of Italy’s top wine authorities explains that the salty acidity comes from an abundance of tartaric rather than malic acid characteristic of Mediterranean wines. … Read more
Teruzzi, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Isola Bianca” 2020
($16, Taub Family Selections): 
The name of the wine, which transliterates into English as “white island” refers to Vernaccia di San Gimignano’s situation as the sole white DOCG in a sea of Tuscany red wine. Teruzzi, formerly named Teruzzi & Puthod, remains one of the region’s top producers despite the name change. … Read more
Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo della Pieve” 2018
($28): 
Campo della Pieve is one of Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara’s top cuvées of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. It is distinguished from their easy-to-recommend regular bottling, labeled Selvabianca, by extended lees aging, which occurs for about 18 months in concrete tanks. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut NV
($30, Quintessential Wines): 
Founded in 1836, Gustave Lorentz’s roots go back to the mid 17th century when the family was involved in barrel making and brokering wine. Today, they are recognized as one of Alsace’s top producers. Their Riesling from the Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim vineyard — they own a third of the vineyard — is always a sensational wine. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut Rosé NV
($30, Quintessential Wines): 
All Crémant d’Alsace is made by the traditional Champagne method, that is, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. What’s unique about Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, unlike other Crémant Rosé, such as Crémant de Bourgogne, for example, is that it must be made entirely from Pinot Noir. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Clarksburg (California) Dry Chenin Blanc 2018
($16): Dry Creek Vineyard has been making a dry Chenin Blanc for since their founding, almost 50 years ago because David Stare, Dry Creek’s founder, fell in love with wines from the Loire Valley — where Chenin Blanc is king. Dry Creek’s 2018 continues its streak as a consistently delightful wine. … Read more
Saracina, Redwood Valley (Mendocino County, California) “Winter’s Edge” 2018
($30): 
Why is this wine so captivating? Maybe it’s because the grapes came from dry-farmed organic vineyards. Or maybe because they came from old vines. Or maybe it’s the unique field blend of Carignan and French Colombard, which is then blended with Grenache. … Read more
Donnafugata, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2018
($40, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Made entirely from Carricante, Donnafugata’s Etna Bianco displays an immediately engaging floral component. A crisp and chiseled wine, it captures the best elements of that grape. This paradoxically vibrant, yet restrained, wine starts to blossom after 30 minutes in the glass. … Read more
Donnafugata, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2017
($35, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Donnafugata’s Etna Rosso, a blend of Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio, is a seductive mid-weight red that marries red fruit flavors with a distinct lava-like minerality. Not an opulent wine, it has a lovely austerity without being hard or astringent. … Read more
Donnafugata, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Fragore” 2017
($85, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
The grapes for Donnafugata’s Fragore hail from the Contrada Montelaguardia. Made entirely from Nerello Mascalese, it is denser than Sul Vulcano Rosso, but paradoxically, still displays a wonderful austerity. This is no fruit bomb. Indeed, the power and concentration have a lava-tinged savory character. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut NV
($30, Quintessential Wines): 
Founded in 1836, Gustave Lorentz’s roots go back to the mid 17th century when the family was involved in barrel making and brokering wine. Today, they are recognized as one of Alsace’s top producers. Their Riesling from the Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim vineyard — they own a third of the vineyard — is always a sensational wine. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut Rosé NV
($30, Quintessential Wines): 
All Crémant d’Alsace is made by the traditional Champagne method, that is, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. What’s unique about Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, unlike other Crémant Rosé, such as Crémant de Bourgogne, for example, is that it must be made entirely from Pinot Noir. … Read more
Hugues Beaulieu / Kysela Père et Fils, Picpoul de Pine (Languedoc, France) 2019
($9, Kysela Père et Fils): 
It’s tough to figure out who is the producer of this wine. The importer’s name, Kysela Père et Fils, figures prominently on the front label above the letters HB. It turns out that the HB stands for Hugues Beaulieu, a co-operative which also carries the name Les Costières de Pomérols. … Read more
Tormaresca, Salento IGT (Puglia, Italy) Primitivo “Torcicoda” 2017
($20, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): 
You know there must be potential for excellent wine in Puglia, the heel of the Italian boot, when Antinori establishes an outpost, Tormaresca, there. The region is known for big reds, like this one, made from the Primitivo grape, which genetically is identical to Zinfandel. … Read more
Hugues Beaulieu / Kysela Père et Fils, Picpoul de Pine (Languedoc, France) 2019
($9, Kysela Père et Fils): It’s tough to figure out who is the producer of this wine. The importer’s name, Kysela Père et Fils, figures prominently on the front label above the letters HB. It turns out that the HB stands for Hugues Beaulieu, a co-operative which also carries the name Les Costières de Pomérols. … Read more
Palmer & Co, Champagne (France) Brut Réserve NV
($60, Quintessential Wines): 
I was unaware of this Champagne house until recently. After tasting this beautiful bubbly, I’m glad I’ve been introduced. At the outset, it’s important to note, its name notwithstanding, it has no connection to either Château Palmer in Margaux or Palmer Vineyards on Long Island. … Read more
Palmer & Co, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs, Brut NV
($90, Quintessential Wines): 
The grapes for this 100 percent Chardonnay come from Villers-Marmery and Trepail, two 1er Cru villages in the Montagne de Reims, a region otherwise known for Pinot Noir, and the Côte de Sézanne, a sub-region of Champagne just south of the Côte des Blancs. … Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py “Jean-Ernest Descombes” 2019
($35, Quintessential Wines): 
The Côte du Py, a blue-stone slope, is the best-known subregion within the Morgon appellation. Gamay grown here takes on a firm and distinct mineral-like character, which often takes a couple of years to soften. However, the warmth of the 2019 vintage brought out a ripe bright dark cherry-like fruit in this Côte du Py. … Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Juliénas (Beaujolais, France) “Château des Capitans” 2019
($23, Quintessential Wines): 
Juliénas is one of the 10 crus, or named villages, of Beaujolais that labels the wine with the village name, omitting Beaujolais entirely. In addition to his “flower label” bottlings of Beaujolais, DuBoeuf produces or commercializes a bevy of notable ones, such as this one. … Read more
Tapiz, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec San Pablo Vineyard 2018
($18, Vino del Sol): 
Full disclosure: I am underwhelmed by most Malbecs, which are heavy, monotonic red wines. Imagine my surprise and delight with this one. Perhaps it’s the 4,200 feet above sea level vineyard, which allows enormous sunlight without great heat. … Read more
Tapiz, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) San Pablo Vineyard “Selección de Barricas” 2012
($38, Vino del Sol): 
While I am usually underwhelmed by most monovarietal Malbec bottlings, that grape works beautifully in red blends, such as this one. Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec each account for about a third of the blend, while Merlot and Syrah comprise the remainder. … Read more
Zolo, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
($13, Vino del Sol): 
Though focused on black fruit flavors, this clean and pure Cabernet Sauvignon avoids the trap of being a fruit bomb. Weighing in at a modest 13.6 percent stated alcohol, it also shows restraint, allowing just a hint of sweet oak to come through. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2019
($25): 
Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio? Same grape but different styles of wine. Naumes has, in a near magical way, combined the best of both styles with this alluring wine. It delivers the luxurious pear-like flavor associated with Pinot Gris with the delicate weight often found with Pinot Grigio. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “GSM” 2018
($40): 
Naumes included Petite Sirah in their 2018 GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend), which somehow, thankfully, does not make the wine denser than usual. It’s a charming light red bursting with spiced wild strawberry-like flavors. For all the muscle you might think those varieties are capable of providing, this spritely GSM dances on the palate. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “SMP” 2018
($40): 
While Naumes’ GSM, a traditional Mediterranean blend, their SMP (Syrah, Mourvèdre and Petite Sirah) is more unusual. Replacing Grenache with Petite Sirah changes the character entirely, creating a muscular, black-fruited wine. Naumes, as always, avoids getting carried away. They’ve created a bold, yet not overdone, red that delivers a wonderful combination of plum and pepper notes wrapped in fine tannins. … Read more
Steele Wines, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Parmelee Hill Vineyard 2018
($38): 
Though the oak in this large-framed Chardonnay is immediately noticeable — a hint of bacon fat — it is not intrusive or overwhelming. Indeed, it’s a balanced wine redolent with melon-like fruitiness and bright acidity that keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. … Read more
Villa Matilde, Falerno del Massico DOC (Campania, Italy) 2016
($32, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Falerno del Massico, a small (not even 250 acres) DOC in Campania, retains appeal, in part, because Falerno was considered the great wine of ancient Rome. With its lava-like underpinnings, Villa Matilde’s, made from a traditional Campania blend of Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso, reflects its origins at the foot of the volcano, Roccamonfina. … Read more
Villa Matilde, Campania IGP (Italy) Aglianico “Rocca dei Leoni” 2017
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Aglianico, the grape known for heavyweight wines, such as Taurasi, bottled under screwcap? Who would have guessed Aglianico-lite would work — but, in Villa Matilde’s hands, it does. This light to mid-weight red (not a description used very often for Aglianico) delivers engaging hints of tar alongside fine tannins. … Read more
Tenuta Sant’Anna, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2020
($17, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
At first blush, pun intended, you’d be forgiven for thinking Rosé Prosecco is a marketing tool combining two hot categories of wine. But this one is a serious wine. It has a substantial presence. You can’t help but take note of it. … Read more
Tenuta di Arceno, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2017
($31): 
Tenuta di Arceno managed to succeed in a difficult vintage. Their bold style worked well in 2017 because they captured ripeness, good acidity and suave tannins simultaneously. Though rich and fruity, a subtly haunting bitterness in the finish reminds us, thankfully, it’s not just about fruit. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Riparossso” 2019
($18, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Illuminati, one of the leading producers in Abruzzo, makes a range of wines from the Montepulciano grape. This one focuses on the dark fruit tones that the Montepulciano variety can display. Its fleshiness, coupled with mild tannins, makes this mid-weight red a good choice for current consumption.… Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Ilico” 2018
($24, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
This Riserva, made from a selection of the best Montepulciano grapes, is real step up from this house’s other, entry-level releases: there’s much more going on here. Not bigger or bolder, it’s just broader and more layered. … Read more