Gavi, the DOCG, takes its name from Gavi, the principal commune of the region. Wines from the DOCG remain underappreciated, perhaps because they are typically racy and sleek but not opulent, or perhaps the grape from which the wines must be made, Cortese, has little recognition.… Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Piedmont
Cascina Adelaide, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Vigna Preda 2019 ($28, R&B Wine Imports)
My familiarity with Cascina Adelaide is limited to their superb Barolo, so I jumped at the chance to taste this Barbara d’Alba. Well, based on this example, their Barbera is in the same league as their Barolo releases. Cascina Adelaide’s aromatic 2019 Barbera is a delight because it’s fruity, but not too much so, and not heavy.… Read more
Rocche Costamagna, Barolo Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata “Bricco Francesco” 2016
($96): Costamagna’s majestic Riserva, Bricco Francesco, comes from the higher part of Rocche Dell’Annunziata, which most producers believe has better soil and exposure. At eight years of age, its bricky color suggests maturity, but don’t be fooled. At this stage, engaging floral notes are apparent, followed by mineraly and red fruit nuances. … Read more
Rocche Costamagna, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2020
($60): Ian D’Agata, an Italian wine authority who has forgotten more about Italian wines than I know, says in Barolo: Terroir, Grapes, Crus, People, Places (2022), “I think Rocche Dell’Annunziata is one of Barolo’s best vineyard areas, a true Grand Cru if there ever was one.” … Read more
Orsoladi, Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “La Rustìa” 2021
($30): It pays to listen to sommeliers who know their stuff. Jan Novak, the sommelier at Il Capriccio, a top Italian restaurant in Waltham, a Boston suburb, recommended this wine to me. It was unfamiliar to me, but her judgment is impeccable… so I ordered it. … Read more
Giacomo Fenocchio, Barbera d’Alba Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) 2022
($28, Skurnik Wines): Every time I drink Barbera, I thank my friend (and sadly recently deceased) Ed McCarthy. Ed, of course, was known as “Mr. Champagne” but he also had forgotten more about Italian wine than I know. And he wisely championed Barbera, and in the process, converted me to its charms. … Read more
Paolo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) La Ginestra 2019
($25, Skurnik Wines): Barbera has an enormous quality range from insipid to fabulous, which can make choosing one a mine field. Yet, it is my “go-to” red at Italian restaurants because ones on a wine list should be high quality since the wine buyer for the restaurant has a wide selection from wholesale sources from which to choose. … Read more
G. B. Burlotto, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Freisa 2020
($30, Vineyard Road, Inc): Freisa, a grape related to Nebbiolo, typically has a significant tannin structure, much like Nebbiolo. Just as there are many examples of Langhe Nebbiolo that are approachable when young, here is a seductive Friesa Langhe DOC that is delightful to drink now. … Read more
Luigi Baudana, Langhe Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Dragon” 2021
($23, Vajra, USA): The dragon on the label symbolizes bravery, according to the website, which is appropriate since this beauty is a field-blend. Field blends can be tricky because varieties with different ripening times are planted — and harvested — together. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Bric Quercia 2019
($19): Tenuta Carretta’s Barbera d’Alba is a well-price robust red that’s perfect for hearty grilled meat this summer. Supple tannins allow the immediate enjoyment of its juicy and ripe (15 percent stated alcohol) black fruit. Barbera’s inherent acidity keeps this racy red lively and in balance. … Read more
Marchesi Alfieri, Barbara d’Asti Superiore DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Alfiera” 2020
($32): Wines made from Barbera are all over the map regarding character and quality. Alfieri’s complex Barbera d’Asti shows the potential of that grape and DOCG. A dark minerality and a “not just fruit” character is a marvelous counterpoint to the lush and juicy black fruit flavors. … Read more
Batasiolo, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Riserva 2012
($82, Palm Bay International): In addition to making very fine single vineyard Baroli, Batasiolo makes this Riserva from grapes grown throughout the delimited Barolo region. Indeed, some of the grapes that could have gone into their single vineyard bottlings are used in the Riserva to maintain consistency and quality. … Read more
Batasiolo, Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Granée” 2021
($23, Palm Bay International): Gavi is one of the unsung stars of Italian white wines. This one, from Batasiolo, a top Barolo producer, is made entirely from Cortese grape grown in the village of Gavi, from which the DOCG takes its name.… Read more
Cantine Garrone, Vino Rosso (Piedmont, Italy) “Munaloss” 2020
($17): Garrone, a small, even tiny, co-operative at the foot of the Alps in the northernmost part of Piedmont, is unusual. The Garrone family works about 7.5 acres of vines themselves and has recruited 50 other growers whose holdings total about 25 acres. … Read more
Cantine Garrone, Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Prünent” 2019
($41): One advantage of a co-operative, like Cantine Garrone, is that they have access to old vines. Many of the members of the co-op have small plots that have been in their families for generations. These old-vine plots are too small to commercialize individually, so the farmers send their grapes to the co-op. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) 2020
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Michele Chiarlo, an excellent Piedmont producer known for their Barolo, also makes wine from Barbera, this one and upper level one, labeled La Court, from the Nizza DOCG, which sells for about twice the price (and, I might add, is worth it). … Read more
Cantina di Tortona, Colli Tortonesi Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Timorasso “Piccolo Derthona” 2020
($24, Matchvino): Though I reviewed this wine in July 2021, I just enjoyed it again with dinner and felt consumers should know about it. The low-yielding Timorasso grape was popular in the Colli Tortonesi DOC in the pre-phylloxera era but was replaced by the more productive Cortese when growers replanted. … Read more
Vietti, Roero Arneis DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2021
($24, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Much of the acclaim for the wines of Piedmont goes to their reds, which certainly deserve it. But let’s not forget about the whites from Roero made from the Arneis grape. Arneis, in the local dialect means “little rascal,” because it is difficult to grow. … Read more
Cordero di Montezemolo, Langhe Arnesi DOC (Piedmont, Italy) 2020
($21): Though Arneis from the DOC Langhe may be less prestigious than Arneis from the DOCG Roero, the wines can be very good, and well-priced, especially from a top producer, such as Cordero di Montezemolo. Take this one, for example. Refreshing and cutting, this chiseled Arneis has good depth and an appealing saline-like minerality. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbaresco Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Cascina Bordino 2016
($55): Like Garassino, the Cascina Bordino vineyard is in the Treiso portion of the Barbaresco DOCG. As much as I liked Carretta’s 2017 Garassino, the stature of the vintage stands out in this 2016 Riserva. It delivers richness and depth — more power — without losing any elegance. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbaresco (Piedmont, Italy) Garassino 2017
($35): The 2017 vintage in Piedmont has the potential to be overlooked because of all the justifiable praise for the 2016 vintage there. Don’t overlook this engaging Barbaresco from the Garassino vineyard located in Treiso. Wines from vineyards in this northwestern part of Treiso tend toward elegance rather than power. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2016
($110, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports): This wine is the vinous equivalent of a hat trick in hockey, which is three goals by the same player in a period. In this case, it’s three greats — great producer, great vintage, great site. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Roero Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Bric Paradiso” 2017
($30, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports): Like Langhe Nebbiolo appellation, Roero is also over-shadowed by its more famous neighbors, Barolo and Barbaresco. This is a DOCG that deserves more recognition because of the high quality/price ration. Carretta’s 2017 is a good example. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Podio” 2020
($21, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports): Wines carrying the Langhe Nebbiolo appellation, especially from a top producer like Carretta, can be a great way for consumers to be introduced to the charms of the more prestigious Nebbiolo-based wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, without breaking the bank. … Read more
Antico Monastero, Moscato d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2021
($15): This wine is bottled summertime. Spritz balances the healthy amount of residual sugar so it’s not cloying, just refreshing. And all of 5.5 percent stated alcohol means you can drink it all afternoon by the pool this summer. Or use it as a zippy and sweet aperitivo. … Read more
Marchesi di Barolo, Langhe Nebbiolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Sbirolo” 2020
($26, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.): The name of this wine, Sbirolo, which means someone with an extroverted personality in the local dialect, describes the wine perfectly. A more succinct translation is “rascal.” This Sbirolo is expressive and in-your-face in a very nice way. … Read more
Mauro Veglio, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2018
($45): This family-owned firm makes a range of Barolo from four of the important vineyards or cru in the DOCG and this one, made from grapes grown in La Morra and Monforte d’Alba where they also have vineyards. It’s a masterful blend that shows the value of the tradition of blending from throughout the Barolo DOCG versus the more recent trend towards single vineyard bottling. … Read more
Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Barolo del Comune di Barolo” 2016
($63, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.): The combination of an outstanding vintage (2016) and an outstanding producer (Marchesi di Barolo) equals an outstanding wine. The wine is a blend from their vineyards within in the municipality of Barolo, one of the 11 villages that comprise the DOCG and the one from which the DOCG takes its name. … Read more
La Casaccia, Barbera del Monferrato DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Giuanin” 2019
($25): La Casaccia, a family-run winery with 20 acres of vines, has always been ahead of the curve. They started farming organically two decades ago, well before it became popular. For those unfamiliar with Barbera, and even for those who know that grape well, this is a beautiful example. … Read more
Marchesi di Barolo, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Peiragal” 2018
($27, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.): In 1980, Ernesto, the patriarch of the family, either foolishly or prophetically planted Barbera in the Paiagallo vineyard, one of Barolo’s top vineyards for Nebbiolo. Valentina, his daughter, recounted that her father replaced the more valuable Nebbiolo vines with Barbera, even though he realized it was not in his economic interest. … Read more
Vietti, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Perbacco” 2017
($31, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Vietti is one of a handful of producers whose wines never fail to impress. I doubt that they have ever made an undistinguished wine. You can safely buy anything Vietti makes. This Langhe Nebbiolo displays understated elegance and wonderful austerity. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Roero Arneis Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Canorei” 2017
($27): Canorei is Carretta’s oldest vineyard. They vinify and then age their best grapes from this vineyard in oak barrels. The oak influence is still apparent in this 2017, but the alluring stone fruit aroma of Arneis still comes through. The oak, and perhaps the age of the vines, add opulence and weight that some consumers will find appealing. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Roero Arneis DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Cayega” 2020
($22): White wines from Roero, an area just across the Tanaro River from Barolo, must contain at least 95 percent Arneis, a grape that has been resurrected over the last over the last several decades. Arneis likely was neglected because Piedmont, after all, is known for its red wines. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Roero Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Bric Paradiso” 2016
($35): The red wines from the Roero DOC, just across the river from Barolo and Barbaresco are under-rated and fly under the radar as Michael Franz, my friend and colleague at WineReviewOnline.com, has pointed out. Juicy and succulent, this youthful example shows just how impressive the wines from this DOC can be. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Cascina Bordino” 2015
($55, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports): With prices of Barolo and Barbaresco going higher and higher, this wine should be on every Piedmont-lovers list. Its relative bargain status — I hate to call a $55 wine a bargain, but it is — could be due to the 2015 vintage, an excellent year overshadowed by the hype justifiably afforded the 2016s. … Read more
Canavere di Giacosa Fratelli, Barbera d’Alba DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Bussia 2019
($24, Montcalm Wine Importers): The versatility of Barbera helps explain its popularity. Typically bright and fresh, like this one, they are a “go-to” choice for many tomato-based pasta dishes. This one’s raspberry-like fruitiness and mild tannins means that it could take a chill nicely in the waning days of summer. … Read more
Paolo Manzone, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Meriame 2016
($50, Romano Brands): Paolo Manzone is a top producer of Barolo who happens to fly under most peoples’ radar. This Barolo, from the Meriame cru in Serralunga, is his top wine. Though Serralunga is known for tannic, structured wines, Manzone’s Meriame is immediately engaging. … Read more
Cantina di Tortona, Colli Tortonesi Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Piccolo Derthona” 2020
($24, Matchvino): Jan Novak, the knowledgeable sommelier at Il Capriccio, one of Boston top Italian restaurants, recommended this wine to me. Jan has not only forgotten more about Italian wine than most people know, she has an incredible palate for discovery lesser-known wines. … Read more
Malgrà, Nizza Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Mora di Sassi 2017
($37, Erie Beverage Solutions): This is the big brother to Malgrà’s Giaina. Far weightier, with more apparent tannins at this stage, it weighs in at 15 percent stated alcohol. It still conveys an attractive dark mineral component and has an alluring hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Malgrà, Nizza DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Gaiana 2017
($19, Erie Beverage Solutions): Italian wine authorities promoted Nizza, formerly a part of Barbera d’Asti DOC, to DOCG status in 2014 because it was clear the wines had the capability of being unique. Malgrà’s Gaiana shows the wisdom of that decision. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Podio 2018
($19, Consortium Wine and Spirits Imports): The regulations for Langhe Nebbiolo do not require exclusive use of Nebbiolo. Growers are permitted to include a small amount, up to 15 percent, of some other varieties. Indeed, the famed Angelo Gaja felt that adding a bit of Barbera to Nebbiolo improved the wine and when he did so was forced to re-classify what he formerly labeled Barbaresco and Barolo to Langhe Nebbiolo. … Read more
Ferraris, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Clàsic” 2020
($20): Those looking for bold fruitiness should go elsewhere. Here, the focus is on an alluring Middle Eastern spice box of aromas and flavors — cinnamon and cloves — and dried flowers. Light on the palate, the flavors in this lively wine nonetheless persist. … Read more
Ferraris, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Opera Prima” Riserva 2017
($40): Luca Ferraris bottled this wine in honor of his nonno, (grandfather) Martino, the founder of the winery. Altogether different from Ferraris’ other two renditions of Ruché, Opera Prima, with its chocolatey nuances, has an Amarone-like sensibility to it. The fine tannins that are a hallmark of Ferraris’ wines together with a suave texture hold it all together. … Read more
Ferraris, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Vigna del Parroco” 2019
($23): Ferraris acquired priest Don Giacomo Cauda’s Ruchè del Parroco in 2016 and renamed it “Vigna del Parroco.” It remains the only officially recognized cru in the entire DOCG. A gorgeous wine that still retains the savory focus, it is also more refined and complex than the Clàsic. … Read more
Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato: An Overlooked Gem in Piedmont
Granted, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato is not the first wine people think of when they think of Piedmont. Well, Agricola Ferraris shows us why it’s time to broaden our horizons.
First, let’s untangle the nomenclature. Ruché (spelled Ruchè in Italian and pronounced roo-kay) is an aromatic red grape with excellent levels of malic acid that accounts for the wines’ freshness and vivacity. … Read more
Luca Bosio, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Arneis 2020
($19, Quintessential Wines): Arneis, a grape found nowhere in Italy except Piedmont, makes one of that country’s overlooked white wines. The Oxford Companion to Wine informs us that is used to be blended with Nebbiolo to soften Barolo and gained the informal local tag of “Barolo Bianco.” … Read more
Cascina Castlet, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Vespa” 2019
($35, Artisan Selections by Romano Brands): Barbera is a terrific wine for a meal because the grape has inherently high acidity, which makes it lively and perfect for food. Its problem is image. When consumers see many on retailers’ shelves selling for less than $10 a bottle, the question is, why spend more? … Read more
Cascina Castlet, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Litina” 2016
($40, Artisan Selections by Romano Brands): The label sports CCC in bold letters on the bottle, the abbreviation of the winery, Cascina Caslet, plus the village, Costigliole, where it’s located. The important information can be found on the neck label. Similar to their Vespa bottling, the Litinia, named after a family member, is a robust wine that delivers black fruitiness buttressed by zippy acidity. … Read more
Gianni Gagliardo, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Castelletto 2013
($100, Enotec Imports / Blair Taylor Selection Denver): The village of Monforte d’Alba, where the Castelletto vineyard is located, is a Barolo zone that typically produces weighty and muscular wines, similar to those from Serralunga d’Alba. So, I was surprised by lovely fragrance and elegance that emanated from Gagliardo’s bottling. … Read more
Palladino, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) S. Bernardo Riserva 2013
($88, Enotec Imports / Blair Taylor Selection Denver): Though the 2016 vintage in Barolo has been receiving great critical acclaim — rightfully so — other vintages from that DOCG are not far behind. Case in point, this 2013 from Palladino, based in Serralunga d’Alba, a Barolo zone known for tannic and tough wines. … Read more