Category Archives: Reviews

Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Premier Cru de Château” 2009

($15, Vineyard Brands):  Muscadet, especially from the Sèvre-et-Maine subregion, remains an under appreciated source of bright and zesty unoaked wines.   This one, from one of the area’s leading producers, comes from 50-year old vines, which helps explain its fascinating complexity.  Mineraly, flinty even, it has uncommon (for Muscadet) depth and length. … Read more

Domaine des Baumard, Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de Sainte Catherine 2007

($37, Vintus):  Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France)  2007 ($37, Vintus): Baumard is a genius with the Chenin Blanc grape, producing stellar dry wines–Savennières–and glorious sweet ones–Quarts des Chaumes and this single vineyard one from the Côteaux du Layon.  The beauty of this wine is its racy acidity that enlivens it, keeps it fresh and balances the sweetness. … Read more

WillaKenzie Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Emery” 2008

($45):  WillaKenzie bottles several vineyard designated Pinot Noir each year.  For some wineries, vineyard designation is simply a marketing tool.  Not for WillaKenzie.  Their single vineyard wines are distinctive and unique.  Slightly more power and concentration sets WillaKenzie’s Emery Vineyard bottling apart from their Aliette bottling (previously reviewed). … Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2009

($83, Louis Latour USA):  This is a great wine.  But that’s what you’d expect from a fabulous vintage, a superb locale (you think the king gets the second best plot in Corton?) and a conscientious and talented producer.  Although Latour is one of the region’s most prominent négociants, this wine comes exclusively from estate-owned plots they purchased over 100 years ago. … Read more

Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Hunting Hill” 2007

($45, Wilson Daniels):  Kumeu River is located on New Zealand’s North Island well north (which means warmer in the Southern Hemisphere) of Marlborough or Central Otago, two of the countries more well-known sites for top-notch wine on the South Island.  Nonetheless, its proximity to the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean (no more than 15 miles) means it’s a cool site. … Read more

Château Tanunda, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Noble Barren” 2008

($50, Banfi Vintners):  This is Château Tanunda’s top-of-the-line Shiraz.  Although slightly “bigger” than their regular bottling, its grandeur and appeal comes from more complexity, not more power or extract.  It’s an exciting Barossa Shiraz because along with the expected intensity comes layers of spice and even a subtle touch of chocolaty notes. … Read more

Penfolds, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “RWT” 2004

($80, FWE Imports):  In contrast to Penfolds’ flagship wine, Grange, which is a multi-regional blend aged in American oak barrels, this stunning Shiraz comes exclusively from the Barossa Valley and is aged in large and small French oak barrels.  Not even a decade old–the RWT (Red Winemaking Trial) Shiraz debuted in 2000 with the 1997 vintage–it has already become one of Penfolds’ most sought-after wines. … Read more

Altano, Douro (Portugal) 2008

($10, Vineyard Brands):  Portugal’s Douro River has long been famous for Port.  More and more, dry red table wines are emerging from this area over the last two decades.  This one, from Symington Family Estates, one the hallmark Port producers, is a blend of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca, grapes used to make Port. … Read more