($95, L’Esprit du Vin): 
The most amazing thing about this wine is its availability. Most red Burgundies from 2009 (a stellar year in my view) have long since disappeared from the retail market. I have said it before, and it’s worth repeating since I’ve tasted scores more since their release, you can’t have too many 2009 red Burgundies in your cellar. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Château Tour de Pez, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($23): This is the kind of wine that made Bordeaux famously popular in the past and could be the kind to revive people’s interest in Bordeaux. Unusually charming for a young wine from St. Estèphe, it leads with herbal aromas followed by plenty of intensity without pandering to over ripeness. … Read more
Château Haut-Bacalan, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($40): 
This wine shows that Bordeaux need not be super expensive nor put in the cellar for a decade or two before pulling the cork. Its slightly burnt ash character identifies it as a wine from Pessac-Léognan, the prestigious subregion of Graves. … Read more
Miraval, Côtes du Provence (France) 2014
($25): 
I suspect much of the enthusiasm for this wine is that Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie own the property. Indeed, the Provence estate near Brignoles is where they were married. Not being a partisan of rosés, I was prepared to dismiss it as just marketing hype with its Champagne-like bottle and perfect pink color that could have been chosen by an interior designer. … Read more
Peter Yealands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2014
($16, Palm Bay International): 
There’s no doubt that the Marlborough name is associated with edgy Sauvignon Blanc. Peter Yealands’ Pinot Gris shows this New Zealand appellation is not a one-trick pony. Definitely in the Pinot Gris (as opposed to the lighter Pinot Grigio) style, it delivers richness offset by tingling acidity. … Read more
Peter Yealands, Awatere Valley (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Yealands Estate Single Vineyard 2013
($25, Palm Bay International): 
The Marlborough region is composed of two principal valleys, the more well-known Wairau, home to Cloudy Bay as well as many others with broad name recognition, the Awatere, just to the south. Leigh Alderton, Vice-President of Sales for the USA for Peter Yealands, describes it as being cooler, drier, and windier, producing smaller grapes with more concentrated flavors. … Read more
Teruzzi & Puthod, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($12, Palm Bay International): Despite being Italy’s 1st DOC (Denominazione Origine Controllata) Vernaccia di San Gimignano remains under the radar, which is great for consumers because, as this wine shows, they can offer great value. Fresh, crisp and cutting, this bright wine is easy to recommend. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Sergio Zingarelli” 2010
($130, Palm Bay International): 
Gran Selezione, a category that debuted only in 2014, is intended to be for Chianti Classico of exceptional character. For a wine to receive that designation it must come from estate grapes (no purchased fruit), be aged even longer than a Chianti Classico Riserva and pass a tasting panel. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($16, Palm Bay International): Wines from the Chianti Classico region remain extremely popular. Indeed, we Americans drink more of them than the Italians. And this one from Rocca delle Macìe, a top producer, shows why. The 2013 is fresh with a food-enhancing bite and the non fruit — earthy — flavors that make Chianti Classico so appealing. … Read more
Ferrari, Trentino DOC (Italy) Blanc de Blancs “Perlé” 2007
($42, Palm Bay International): Ferrari is one of, if not the, top producer of sparkling wine in Trentino. This splendid one, Perlé, is made entirely from Chardonnay grown in a single vineyard. A firm backbone of acidity supports and balances its suave creaminess. … Read more
Planeta, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) 2014
($24): At first glance, Sicily seems too hot to grow grapes for top quality wines. Indeed, it’s the mountains there that supply the needed elevation to keep the grapes cool as they ripen and that explain why Sicily is home to some fabulous wines, such as this one. … Read more
Travaglini, Gattinara Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) 2009
($60, Palm Bay International): Gattinara, a tiny appellation of only about 250 acres in Piedmont lies north of Barolo and like its more esteemed neighbor, uses on the Nebbiolo grape exclusively. Travaglini, who owns about 125 acres, or roughly half of the appellation and is the major producer, bottles an array of wines labeled Gattinara. … Read more
Fontanafredda, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Serralunga d’Alba 2010
($45, Palm Bay International): Add Fontanafredda’s Serralunga d’Alba to your list of 2010 Barolo wines for your cellar. In a decade you will not be disappointed. The power that follows the enormous initial floral impact is unexpected, startling and then captivating. … Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Taurasi (Campania, Italy) 2010
($40, Palm Bay International): 
There is no question in my mind that the wines from Taurasi, a small DOCG in Campania, rank with Italy’s, and the world’s, greatest wines. The Aglianico grape thrives in the climate and volcanic — it’s near Vesuvius — soil of the region.… Read more
Castello di Verrazzano, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2011
($40, Palm Bay International): Castello di Verrazzano’s Chianti Classico Riserva comes from grapes grown in their vineyards that are at a higher elevation on the slope than other parcels. The erosion and drainage at that part of the slope always results in concentrated grapes that produce powerful wines. … Read more
Tenuta Le Potazzine Gorelli, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($64): Potazzine Gorelli’s 2010 Brunello ranks with the best from that vintage. It has a beguiling combination of dark cherry-like flavors, firm — not hard — tannins and a paradoxical delicacy. Everything is in harmony. Flavors unfold as it sits in the glass and dance across the palate. … Read more
Talenti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($47): 
It’s worth repeating: The 2010s from Brunello di Montalcino are staggeringly good. By and large, they are beautifully balanced with tannins that lend support without being astringent. Talenti’s was one of my favorites from the line up of 2010 Brunello I tasted in Montalcino this past February. … Read more
M. Marengo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Bricco delle Viole” 2010
($60, Marc de Grazia Selection): I was unfamiliar with this producer until recently when I had the opportunity to taste a range of their wines at a tasting in Boston put on by their importer. Now, I’ll buy anything they make. … Read more
Fratelli Revello, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Gattera” 2010
($52, Marc de Grazia Selection): Similar to many other Barolo producers, Fratelli Revello made more than one Barolo in 2010, which creates a potentially confusing situation for consumers. This one, Gattera, is from a single vineyard in La Morra and is aged in large old barrels. … Read more
M. Marengo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Brunate” 2010
($62, Marc de Grazia Selection): 
Barolo experts and aficionados agree that Brunate, a vineyard than spans both communes of Barolo and La Morra, is one of the top spots in the Barolo DOCG. Marengo owns about 3 acres of this 62-acre vineyard and from it they have produced an irresistible wine in 2010. … Read more
M. Marengo, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) Vigneto Pugnane 2012
($25, Marc de Grazia Selection): 
The Pugnane vineyard located in Castiglione Faletto, one of the important communes of Barolo, is usually planted with Nebbiolo because the grape planted in that locale makes exemplary Barolo. Marco Marengo says the vineyard is also well suited for Barbera. … Read more
Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2011
($24, Vintus): Crozes-Hermitage, an appellation on flatter ground surrounding the prestigious and sloped Hermitage appellation, is a sleeper site for attractively priced Syrah-based Rhône wines. In distinction to its more famous neighbor, wines from Crozes, as they’re sometimes known, need less aging and are far less expensive, but can provide enormous value, especially when produced by a top firm, such as Guigal. … Read more
Les Dauphins, Côtes du Rhône (France) Reserve 2013
($13, Plume Ridge): 
I’m always amazed when a wine takes the trip across the pond, and then across the country, and still manages to deliver great quality for under fifteen dollars. Doesn’t the fuel to get it here cost almost that much? … Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2011
($14, Vintus): Guigal, more than anyone, is responsible for catapulting Rhône wines from a cult following in the 1980s to their now extraordinary widespread popularity. Guigal is, of course, famous for their single vineyard bottlings of Côte Rôtie wines, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque, which now are highly allocated and sell for hundreds of dollars a bottle upon release. … Read more
Château Saint-Maur, Côtes du Provence (France) “M” 2014
($25): Much like the Médoc and other parts of Bordeaux, the French, in 1955, established an official classification of the estates of Provence, awarding 14 properties, including Château Saint-Maur, Cru Classé status. Judging from their lineup of 2014s, they deserve the accolade. … Read more
Château Saint-Maur, Côtes du Provence (France) “L’Excellence” 2014
($45): “L’Excellence,” the mid-range rosé from Château Saint-Maur, is broader and more refined than their “entry” level wine, “M.” As enjoyable and satisfying as M is, L’Excellence is a clear step up. Zesty acidity, characteristic of all their wines, imbues this rosé with life and gives it a real presence.… Read more
Château Saint-Maur, Côtes du Provence (France) Clos de Capelune 2014
($60): 
It’s not the blend that explains the quality and uniqueness of the Clos de Capelune rosé from Château Saint-Maur, since it has a similar varietal make-up to the “L’Excellence” bottling — both are a blend of mostly red grapes (Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre) with a touch of Rolle.… Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Stiling Vineyard 2013
($55): Nickel & Nickel’s Stiling Vineyard Chardonnay, with its seductive subtle creaminess, comes across as a tighter, less ripe wine than their Truchard Vineyard bottling, despite a similar stated alcohol — 14.5%. A citrus element, especially in the finish, amplifies its appeal. … Read more
EnRoute, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Brumaire” 2013
($65): Larry McGuire and his partners created EnRoute, a sister winery of Far Niente, Dolce and Nickel & Nickel, to focus on Pinot Noir. They have now expanded their range to Chardonnay with this one, their second vintage of Brumaire, a stunning example of what I hope is the new style of California Chardonnay. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay Truchard Vineyard 2013
($55): Nickel & Nickel is an exemplar for highlighting terroir — the differences between vineyards — in California. For years, their lineup of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay dispel the notion that all wines from Napa and Sonoma Valleys taste the same. … Read more
Monteverro, IGT Toscana Rosso (Italy) “Terra di Monteverro” 2011
($60, Opici Imports): Terra di Monteverro is the second wine of Monteverro. Though it’s a similar blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, the components have been selected because they are less structured and more accessible. Since the blend is less dense, it also undergoes less oak aging. … Read more
Vasco Sassetti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): 
Vasco Sassetti made a powerful brooding Brunello in 2010 that conveys a healthy dose of dark minerality and earthiness that balances its ripeness. Despite its power, this is a fresh and lively wine. An attractive black cherry skin subtle bitterness reinforces the seriousness of this Brunello. … Read more
André Clouet, Champagne (France) Grande Réserve Brut NV
($47): André Clouet, a small grower located in Bouzy, a village prized for its Pinot Noir, makes this extraordinary non-vintage Champagne exclusively from that grape. Combine six years of aging on the lees with that grape produces this wonderfully powerful Champagne. … Read more
Xavier Monnot, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Charmes 2012
($120, Robert Katcher Selections): 
Combine the richness inherent to the wines from Les Charmes vineyard and the warm 2012 growing season and you get, not surprisingly, an opulent wine. The surprise is its vivacity and brightness, which Monnot attributes to the 50+ year-old vines. … Read more
Xavier Monnot, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Chenes 2012
($85, Robert Katcher Selections): One whiff of this wine explains the reputation of Volnay and why the wines from this village are in such great demand. Most experts consider Clos des Chenes one of the best premier cru vineyards in this village that lacks any grand crus. … Read more
Xavier Monnot, Maranges 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Fussière 2012
($45, Robert Katcher Selections): Though wine has been made in Maranges for centuries, the appellation is relatively new for Burgundy, having been established only in 1988. Prior to that date, the wines were sold under the broad Côte de Beaune Villages umbrella. … Read more
Pahlmeyer, Napa Valley (California) “Jayson” 2012
($75): Pahlmeyer, the $150-a-bottle Bordeaux blend, has become one of the “hot” Napa Valley wines. Jayson, made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon, is Pahlmeyer’s second wine. It’s no shrinking violet. Inky purple, it’s juicy and concentrated with heaps of dark, blueberry-like fruit flavors. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2012
($40): With its ripe dark fruit character, Rodney Strong’s 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon clearly reflects its origins, the Alexander Valley, the second warmest (behind Knights Valley) AVA of Sonoma County. The dense black fruit character is laced with allspice and other exotic notes. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” 2012
($55): 
Similar to Rodney Strong’s 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, their Meritage wine, Symmetry, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), and other Bordeaux varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot), is big and ripe with a seductively plush texture. With the blend, however, comes complexity, which becomes even more apparent as the wine sits in the glass. … Read more
Col D’Orcia, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($43): Col D’Orcia, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, made a stunning Rosso di Montalcino in 2010. It’s not surprising since 2010 was truly a great vintage for the region and Col D’Orcia has always embraced the second wine of the region. … Read more
Monteverro, IGT Toscana Rosso (Italy) “Monteverro” 2011
($150, Opici Imports): Monteverro, who just planted their first vines in 2004, is aiming to enter the elite three digit price club of the Super Tuscans, led by Ornellaia and Sassicaia. They are located, like those two icons, in Maremma, though in a warmer area about 100 south of them. … Read more
Sesti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($55): The vast range of Brunello I tasted at Benvenuto Brunello, the annual event in Montalcino at which the Brunello producers show their soon-to-be-released new vintage, convinced me that 2010 is one the truly great vintages for that DOCG. In my view, Brunello lovers cannot have too many 2010s in their cellars. … Read more
Bila-Haut, Côtes du Rousssillon Villages Latour de France (Languedoc, France) “Occultum Lapidem” 2013
($30, HB Wine Merchants): Michel Chapoutier, the renowned Rhône producer, has a personal estate in the Languedoc, called Bila-Haut. Latour de France (not to be confused with the bicycle race) is one of the four specific towns that have the potential to produce more distinctive wine and are allowed to append their names to the more encompassing Côtes du Rousssillon Villages appellation, much like the better villages in the Rhône can attach their names to the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation.… Read more
Caves de Lugny, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, Franc) “La Côte Blanche” 2013
($12, Pasternak Wine Imports): Caves de Lugny, the largest cooperative in Burgundy, controls about one-third of the entire production of the Mâconnais region. I, unlike many, do not subscribe to the notion that large producers are incapable of making high quality wine. … Read more
Henri Prudhon, St. Aubin (Burgundy, France) Les Argillers 2010
($30, Rosenthal Wine Merchant): St. Aubin, an off the main road village in Burgundy, is known mostly for whites, which, because of recent popularity, has already resulted in considerable prices increase for those Chardonnay-based wines. The reds, made exclusively from Pinot Noir, such as this one, remain relatively undiscovered–and therefore, reasonably priced. … Read more
La Lastra, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($15): La Lastra is one of leading producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, an often-overlooked DOCG. With its cutting edge and slightly nutty finish, La Lastra’s 2013 could be the poster child for the appellation. This bright and energetic wine is perfect for linguine and clam sauce or simple broiled fish.… Read more
Querciabella, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($32, Maison Marques & Domaines): 
Querciabella, one of the stellar producers in the Chianti Classico region, does not rest on their laurels. They are in the process of making Chianti Classico from several of the subregions of that DOCG, which will give consumers an opportunity, at long last, to discern the differences among the areas in the Chianti Classico region since the winemaking will be constant. … Read more
Castello di Verrazzano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($23): A traditional producer, Verrazzano uses only Sangiovese and Canaiolo for their Chianti Classico, reserving Cabernet and Merlot, the so-called international varieties, for their Super Tuscan bottling. Their powerful style is readily apparent with this 2012 Chianti Classico. Despite its concentration, the wine is balanced with an interplay of dark cherry-like fruit and savory elements all enlivened by refreshing acidity. … Read more
Antinori, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Pian delle Vigne” 2010
($62): It should come as no surprise that Antinori, who, as much as anyone, is responsible for the quality of Tuscan wines, should produce an outstanding Brunello. They certainly have with their 2010 Pian delle Vigne. Lofty aromatics predict an exciting wine. … Read more
Poggio di Sotto, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($160): Poggio di Sotto, one of the region’s traditional producers, made one of the top wines of the vintage in 2010. Though not a powerhouse, there’s plenty going on in Poggio di Sotto’s 2010 Brunello. The first whiff tells you it’s something special. … Read more