Category Archives: Reviews

G. D. Vajra, Dolcetto d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) “Coste e Fossati” 2013

($26): G. D. Vajra, one of my favorite Barolo producers, also makes excellent wines from other traditional Piedmont grapes, such as this Dolcetto.  This is an unusual Dolcetto because the vines are over 100 years old and they are planted in a two vineyards — Coste and Fossati — that actually lie in the Barolo DOCG and could be planted with Nebbiolo and sold at a far higher price. Read more

Viña Carmen, Colchagua Valley (Rapel Valley, Chile) Carmenere Gran Reserva 2011

($15, Trinchero): Is it just a coincidence that a producer named Carmen should excel with Carmenere, which is arguably Chile’s national grape?  Coincidence or not, they’ve excelled with this 2011.  The Apalta area, one of the most famous ones in the Colchagua Valley, supplied the raw materials and the winemaking team at Viña Carmen turned them into excellent wine. Read more

Agricole Vallone, Salice Salentino Riserva (Puglia, Italy) “Vereto” 2008

($15, Quintessential Wines): Puglia, the “heel” of Italy’s “boot,” is home to some amazing and well-priced wines.  This one, and Vallone’s Vigna Flamino, are two that should not be missed because they offer incredible enjoyment at an affordable price.  The Salice Salentino Riserva, made entirely from Negroamaro, is a hefty wine, but not overdone, with an alluring subtle bitterness in the finish. Read more

Elvio Cogno, Nascetta di Novello Langhe (Piedmont, Italy) Novello “Anas-Cëtta” 2013

($28, Wilson Daniels): It takes a bit of work to sort out the label, but it’s worth it.  Starting at the top, Elvio Cogno is a red-hot producer in Piedmont best known for their Barolo and Barbaresco.  Nascetta is an obscure variety from the Langhe thought by some to be related to Vermentino, which they’ve had in their Novello vineyard for a couple of decades. Read more

Domaine Bertagna, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2012

($29): One way to find well-priced Burgundy (no, that’s not an oxymoron) is to choose a down-market appellation from a top-notch producer, such as Domaine Bertagna.  Although Les Dames Huguettes lies in the appellation of Hautes Côtes de Nuits, just west (up and behind) the escarpment of the Côte d’Or, the vineyard itself still lies within the boundaries of the village of Nuits St Georges. Read more

Giesen, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2014

($14): Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand now enjoy a world wide reputation for quality and for the palate electrifying zing they deliver.  What’s unusual is to find one with those qualities at this price.  Giesen’s 2014 has an alluring lime-like citrus character that gives it Marlborough’s hallmark cutting edginess, while not screaming or assaulting the palate. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, IGP Ardèche (France) Chardonnay “Grand Ardèche” 2012

($15, Louis Latour USA): Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Burgundy négociant founded over 200 years ago, branched out into the Ardèche, a sleepy area of central France, 25 years ago to have a go with Chardonnay there.  It was their first venture outside of Burgundy and continues to be a resounding success because of the outstanding value of the wines they produce there. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2012

($57): One of the reasons I admire Merry Edwards is because she makes Pinot Noir that reflect their origins — she is not trying to make red Burgundy.  To be sure, she understands the subtlety and delicacy of Pinot Noir but also knows that grape expresses itself differently in the Russian River Valley than in the Côte d’Or. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2012

($62): Though similarly plush and polished, a thread of red fruit flavors is woven into the fabric of the Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir, which sets it apart from both the Coopersmith and Georganne bottlings. At this stage, with its charming subtleties, the Olivet Lane is the most expressive of her these three single vineyard bottlings.  Read more

Domaine de la Citadelle, IGP Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) “Viognier de la Citadelle” 2013

($17): The regulations for the AOP (formerly known as AOC) Luberon require the wines be made from a blend of grapes because it’s the tradition in the region. That’s why this one, made entirely from Viognier, a white grape whose home is the northern Rhône, but thrives at Domaine de la Citadelle, carries the IGP designation instead of a more prestigious AOP. Read more

Concha y Toro, Puente Alto (Maipo Valley, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Marques de Casa Concha” 2012

($22, Excelsior Wine and Spirits): Cabernet is king in the Maipo Valley and especially Puente Alto region, which explains why some of Chile’s finest Cabernet-based wines carry this appellation. For example, Don Melchor, the iconic — and expensive ($100+) — wine from Concha y Toro, one of the country’s leading producers, hails from Puente Alto. Read more