Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Vincent et Jean-Yves Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Maxine” Vieilles Vignes 2008

($43, Vineyard Brands): Made from Sauvignon Blanc vines that are more than 50 years old, this is a great Sancerre, with complexity that comes only from old vines. Fermented and aged in older oak barrels, you feel–not taste–the wood’s effect.  This is not just Sauvignon Blanc; this is Sauvignon Blanc planted in Sancerre with the slightly chalky and earthy flavors unique to that locale. … Read more

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de l’Echo 2005

($35, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): Couly-Dutheil is among the top–if not the top–producer of Chinon.  And although he has a more expensive bottling, their Clos de l’Echo is always my favorite of his offerings.  This single vineyard wine from a south-facing rocky slope takes its name from the echo generated between it and the château in Chinon.… Read more

Patient Cottat, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2007

($11, Vineyard Brands):  The Fournier family owns three domaines in and around Sancerre, in the heart of the Loire Valley, and is one of that region’s leading producers.  In addition to their excellent appellation controllée Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, they produce this bright and lively Sauvignon Blanc, the same grape used in those two appellations. … Read more

Domaine Cherrier et Fils, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008

($25, Vineyard Brands):  Many Sancerre these days lack distinctiveness and taste more like simple Sauvignon Blanc.  Not this one, which shows why the vineyards around the tiny town of Sancerre on the Loire River have such a good reputation.  Sure, it has the bright zesty verve of Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s real Sancerre, with layers of chalky minerality–even a smoky flinty element–and depth.… Read more

Mohua, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2008

($20, Vineyard Brands):  Twenty bucks for lovely Pinot Noir–Mohua (pronounced mow-who-a) has given us a Christmas present.  A touch of earthy intrigue adds balance to this fruit-forward Pinot Noir.  The tannins are barely noticeable which allows for immediate enjoyment.  Despite its stated 14% alcohol, it has a lovely laciness that distinguishes it from the heavy overdone style of Pinot Noir flooding the market.… Read more

Vincent Audras, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Haute-Combe 2006

($19, Becky Wasserman Selection):  Julienas is one of the ten crus–best villages–within the Beaujolais region.  This wine’s charmingly rustic character nicely complements and offsets the cherry-like fruitiness.  Mild tannins and bright acidity lend structure without being abrasive.  It’s a perfect “bistro” wine.… Read more

Château Lascaux, Côteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2006

($15, Kermit Lynch):  The Côteaux du Languedoc is an appellation (25,000 acres, roughly half the size of Napa) within the enormous Languedoc (500,000 acres) (in southern France on the west side of Rhône River where the typical Rhone varieties thrive.  A classic blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (35%) and Mourvedre, the Chateau Lascaux is filled with spice and herbal elements mingled with black fruit flavors. … Read more

Terre Rouge, California (United States) Syrah “Les Côtes de l’Ouest” 2005

($18):  Winemaker and owner Bill Easton bottles his wines made from Rhône grapes–Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier–under the Terre Rouge label, using the eponymous name for those made from other varietals.  All of the vineyards that produce grapes for this wine face west, hence its name, Les Côtes de l’Ouest. … Read more

Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

($27):  A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) with a little Merlot (6%), and Cabernet Franc, it’s riper and more fruit forward than the usually more restrained Cabernet from South Africa.   Hints of non-fruit flavors peek through and add complexity.  Firm tannins and lively acidity help keep it from going over-the-top, but I can’t help wondering if some South African winemakers are catching the international high alcohol and slightly overripe virus.… Read more

Hess, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

($17): A blend of fruit from Mendocino, Lake, and Napa counties–with no one area exceeding the magical 85% number–means the label carries the general California appellation.  But that should not deter you from buying this solid, enjoyable Cabernet.  Blended with Syrah (8%) and Merlot (4%), this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers ripe flavors–without being overdone–supported by fine tannins. … Read more

Domaine Joblot, Givry (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 2007

($58, Robert Kacher Selections):  Givry, along with Mercurey, are the two most important villages for red wine in the Côte Chalonnaise.   Wines from there may lack the prestige compared to those from the Côte d’Or, but are often equally enjoyable.  Joblot, a leading producer based in Givry, makes wines from a number of that village’s vineyards. … Read more

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “La Foret” 2006

($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): All Burgundy is highly dependent on producer, but none more than those labeled Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy’s lowliest appellation seen on these shores.  Since Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s top producers, don’t miss this one.  This value-packed 2006 La Foret, their basic red Burgundy, delivers simple, straightforward red and black fruit flavors intertwined with just a hint of earthy, leafy notes. … Read more

Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Clifford Bay Reserve 2008

($32, Vineyard Brands): Although not from a single vineyard, this is one of Villa Maria’s upscale—and excellent—bottlings of Sauvignon Blanc.  From a variety of vineyards in the Awatere region of Marlborough, this Sauvignon Blanc has the hallmark Marlborough grapefuit-like edginess and pungency, but with an unusual density, length and refinement. … Read more

Goats do Roam, Western Cape (South Africa) ‘White’ 2008

($10, Vineyard Brands): Although it’s Charles Back’s pun-laden labels that catch your attention, the wine in the bottle is what holds it.  Hints—just hints—of apricot and peach-like flavors buttressed by good acidity makes this southern Rhone lookalike easy to recommend.  Clean and fresh, without a trace of heaviness, it has surprising length, especially at the price.… Read more