Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

($27):  A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) with a little Merlot (6%), and Cabernet Franc, it’s riper and more fruit forward than the usually more restrained Cabernet from South Africa.   Hints of non-fruit flavors peek through and add complexity.  Firm tannins and lively acidity help keep it from going over-the-top, but I can’t help wondering if some South African winemakers are catching the international high alcohol and slightly overripe virus.… Read more

Hess, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

($17): A blend of fruit from Mendocino, Lake, and Napa counties–with no one area exceeding the magical 85% number–means the label carries the general California appellation.  But that should not deter you from buying this solid, enjoyable Cabernet.  Blended with Syrah (8%) and Merlot (4%), this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers ripe flavors–without being overdone–supported by fine tannins. … Read more

Domaine Joblot, Givry (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 2007

($58, Robert Kacher Selections):  Givry, along with Mercurey, are the two most important villages for red wine in the Côte Chalonnaise.   Wines from there may lack the prestige compared to those from the Côte d’Or, but are often equally enjoyable.  Joblot, a leading producer based in Givry, makes wines from a number of that village’s vineyards. … Read more

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “La Foret” 2006

($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): All Burgundy is highly dependent on producer, but none more than those labeled Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy’s lowliest appellation seen on these shores.  Since Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s top producers, don’t miss this one.  This value-packed 2006 La Foret, their basic red Burgundy, delivers simple, straightforward red and black fruit flavors intertwined with just a hint of earthy, leafy notes. … Read more

Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Clifford Bay Reserve 2008

($32, Vineyard Brands): Although not from a single vineyard, this is one of Villa Maria’s upscale—and excellent—bottlings of Sauvignon Blanc.  From a variety of vineyards in the Awatere region of Marlborough, this Sauvignon Blanc has the hallmark Marlborough grapefuit-like edginess and pungency, but with an unusual density, length and refinement. … Read more

Goats do Roam, Western Cape (South Africa) ‘White’ 2008

($10, Vineyard Brands): Although it’s Charles Back’s pun-laden labels that catch your attention, the wine in the bottle is what holds it.  Hints—just hints—of apricot and peach-like flavors buttressed by good acidity makes this southern Rhone lookalike easy to recommend.  Clean and fresh, without a trace of heaviness, it has surprising length, especially at the price.… Read more

Alphonse Mellot, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2008

($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Pouilly sur Loire, home to Pouilly-Fumé, sits just across the Loire River from Sancerre and, like that town, allows producers to use only Sauvignon Blanc for its wines.  Despite the similar location and grape, Mellot’s Pouilly-Fumé’s stony, lean, laser-like edginess is very different from the chalky earthy notes found in his Sancerre (reviewed previously). … Read more

Meinert, Devon Valley (Stellenbosch, South Africa) “Synchronicity” 2004

($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Meinert puts Pinotage, the unique South African cross of Cinsault and Pinot Noir, to good use by adding a small–10%–of it in the this blend of equal parts Cabernet and Merlot.  Pinotage by itself can be off-putting with its aroma that can sometimes smell like adhesive tape, but in this wine it adds a wonderfully exotic spice-like and component that supplements earthy notes and balances the lush fruitiness of the other varietals. … Read more

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Shiraz Grenache 2005

($20, Boutique Wine Collection): Forrester says his Grenache vineyard, almost 50 years old, is the only one in Stellenbosch because the remaining ones were pulled up during apartheid by the government-run wine monopoly.  That seems very unfortunate, judging from this wine, which manages to combine fresh fruit with slightly spiced gamey elements into a harmonious package. … Read more