($27): A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) with a little Merlot (6%), and Cabernet Franc, it’s riper and more fruit forward than the usually more restrained Cabernet from South Africa. Hints of non-fruit flavors peek through and add complexity. Firm tannins and lively acidity help keep it from going over-the-top, but I can’t help wondering if some South African winemakers are catching the international high alcohol and slightly overripe virus.… Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($40): Just when you thought you could generalize that Cabernet from Washington were lighter and less ripe than their California counterparts, you discover it’s not that simple. This robust blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (79%), Petit Verdot (9%) Cabernet Franc (8%) and Merlot is as intense as any from California. … Read more
Hess, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($17): A blend of fruit from Mendocino, Lake, and Napa counties–with no one area exceeding the magical 85% number–means the label carries the general California appellation. But that should not deter you from buying this solid, enjoyable Cabernet. Blended with Syrah (8%) and Merlot (4%), this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers ripe flavors–without being overdone–supported by fine tannins. … Read more
Egly-Ouriet, Champagne (France) “VP” Brut NV
($93, Ideal Wines):
Ninety-plus bucks for a non-vintage Champagne is asking a lot. But Egly-Ouriet delivers with their VP (Vieillissement Prolongé or long aging) bottling. Entirely from Grand Cru villages, this Champagne is a seamless blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. … Read more
Marqués de Cáceres, Rioja (Spain) Blanco 2008
($8, Vineyard Brands): Yes, you read it correctly–a white wine from Rioja, Spain’s most recognized region for red wine. There’s a long tradition of making white wine in Rioja, but the local preference for a heavy slightly oxidized style made them impossible to sell in the United States. … Read more
The Grapes of Roth, Long Island (New York) Riesling 2008
($22): As Ed McCarthy, my colleague here at WRO, pointed out in a recent column, winemakers on Long Island’s East End are turning out some impressive wines. And this is one of them. Roman Roth, one of the area’s best winemakers and the brain behind winemaking at Wolffer Estate, also has his own label. … Read more
Taltarni, Pyrenees of Victoria (Victoria, Australia) “Cephas” 2003
($40, Clos du Val Wine Co.): A blend of Shiraz (81%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, Cephas is the flagship wine of Taltarni, Bernard Portet and Clos du Val’s outpost in Australia. This bold red–with slightly smoky with gamey undertones–still maintains the hallmark elegance of Clos du Val’s style. … Read more
Bodega Don Olegrio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($20, Kobrand): The script label makes deciphering the producer’s name difficult, but that should not deter consumers from reaching for the bottle. A softer–some would say “friendlier”–style of Albariño, it still has sufficient brightness and verve to hold your interest throughout a meal. … Read more
Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot 2005
($20, Vineyard Brands): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Merlot (42%), Cabernet Franc (6%) and Shiraz, this is surprisingly more fruit-forward than many of Ellis’s past offerings. Nonetheless, it delivers herbal, earthy notes that give it complexity and prevent it from being a fruit bomb. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2008
($23): SBS, an abbreviation widely used in Western Australia, stands for Sauvignon Blanc Semillon and indicates the blend of the two varieties. Bright and vigorous, this wine has engaging edginess and a lip-smacking citric finish, undoubtedly coming from the Sauvignon Blanc, which comprises 80% of the blend. … Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry (Burgundy, France) Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 2007
($58, Robert Kacher Selections): Givry, along with Mercurey, are the two most important villages for red wine in the Côte Chalonnaise. Wines from there may lack the prestige compared to those from the Côte d’Or, but are often equally enjoyable. Joblot, a leading producer based in Givry, makes wines from a number of that village’s vineyards. … Read more
Taltarni, Victoria (Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($13, Clos du Val Wine Company): Taltarni has fashioned a “friendlier” version of Sauvignon Blanc compared to the more bracing ones that come from Marlborough, New Zealand. It conveys a little creaminess that rounds out the pungency inherent to the varietal. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2008
($13, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof invariably offers great value. This 2008 Syrah is no exception. Expressing the meaty, beefy side of Syrah rather than the peppery aspect, it is an engaging wine with supple texture that makes it perfect for current drinking with hearty fare.… Read more
Albert Morot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Bressandes 2007
($63, Robert Kacher Selections): Morot, who owns about 3.25 acres of the large–by Burgundy standards–(43-acre) 1er Cru Bressandes vineyard, made a classic red Burgundy from those grapes in 2007, a vintage that produced many charming forward red Burgundies. One whiff of the gloriously perfumed nose predicts good things will follow. … Read more
Château D’Aqueria, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2008
($19, Kobrand): Tavel, a village in the south of France near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, makes only rosé wine from the usual blend of Rhône grapes–including Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Almost light red in color, this dry wine conveys serious strawberry-tinged flavors that spread over the palate. … Read more
José Maria da Fonseca, Terras do Sado (Portugal) “Periquita” 2006
($10, Palm Bay International): This regional wine–the Portuguese equivalent of a French Vin de Pays or Italian IGT–hails from the southwest part of the country across the Tagus River from Lisbon on the Setúbal peninsula. Made mostly (80%) from an indigenous grape, Castelão, it provides great value with each vintage, and the 2006 is no exception. … Read more
Marqués de Cáceres, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2002
($25, Vineyard Brands): Forget everything you might have heard about a mediocre 2002 vintage in Rioja. This is a wonderful wine that proves vintage charts need be taken with a grain of salt. Better to focus on the producer. In this case, Marqués de Cáceres, one of Rioja’s best. … Read more
Faustino, Rioja (Spain) “Faustino V” Reserva 2004
($21, Palm Bay International): Rioja, Spain’s most widely known wine region, continues to offer consumers wines with a fabulous combination of ripe fruit flavors and earthy elements. Not a modern fruit bomb, this gorgeous, traditional blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Mazuelo delivers a stylish balance of bright red fruit and savory notes surrounded by polished tannins. … Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “Selección” 2007
($20, Alamos USA): Alamos is another label from Bodegas Catena, arguably Argentina’s leading producer. In addition to this 100% Malbec bottling, a selection of their best Malbec, they also produce an attractive Malbec blend with 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda. … Read more
Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2006
($26, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Less well-known towns just outside of Beaune in the heart of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, such as Savigny- or Chorey-lès-Beaune (lès means near), offer consumers an excellent opportunity to savor the charms of Burgundy without taking out a second mortgage. … Read more
Gordon Brothers, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah 2006
($20): Very attractive aromas of earthy minerality along with black fruit give forth to similar flavors on the palate. This Syrah emphasizes the ripe plummy character of the grape as opposed to the spicy, peppery quality. Nicely balanced, and not flamboyant, it has a pleasingly polished texture, making it perfect for current consumption.… Read more
Abadia Retuerta, Castilla y León (Spain) “Selección Especial” 2006
($20, Kobrand): Located just outside of Spain’s prestigious Ribera del Duero region, Abadia Retuerta has been producing stylish, well-price wines since 1996 when the pharmaceutical company Novartis finally–a decade after its purchase–completed replanting the vineyards and finished their a state-of-the-art gravity flow winery. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2007
($30): With Clos du Val’s location in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley and owner Bernard Portet’s Bordeaux heritage, it’s not surprising that they make superb Cabernet Sauvignon. What continues to surprise me–although it shouldn’t since they have been doing it consistently over the years–is how good their Pinot Noir is. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “La Foret” 2006
($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): All Burgundy is highly dependent on producer, but none more than those labeled Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy’s lowliest appellation seen on these shores. Since Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s top producers, don’t miss this one. This value-packed 2006 La Foret, their basic red Burgundy, delivers simple, straightforward red and black fruit flavors intertwined with just a hint of earthy, leafy notes. … Read more
Castelo de Medina, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2008
($13, Elite Wines): With summer upon us—at least by the calendar—here’s a perfect crisp refreshing white for simple seafood. Verdejo is an indigenous Spanish grape rarely found outside of that country. In this rendition, delicate herbal notes complement the citric tang and lend more complexity than you’d imagine given the price. … Read more
Jose Pariente, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2007
($17, Grapes of Spain): Verdejo—not to be confused with the Portuguese grape, Verdelho—is the primary grape of Rueda, one of Spain’s superb regions for white wines. This one is lively and fresh with an ever so slightly waxy texture that adds to its overall appeal. … Read more
Prieure de Montezargues, Tavel (France) 2007
($19, Henriot): Tavel, a lovely village in the south of France, is one of the few places in the world that makes only rosé. Not a by-product of a process to beef-up a red wine, this serious rosé has more substance than most. … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Clifford Bay Reserve 2008
($32, Vineyard Brands): Although not from a single vineyard, this is one of Villa Maria’s upscale—and excellent—bottlings of Sauvignon Blanc. From a variety of vineyards in the Awatere region of Marlborough, this Sauvignon Blanc has the hallmark Marlborough grapefuit-like edginess and pungency, but with an unusual density, length and refinement. … Read more
Prieure de Montezargues, Tavel (France) 2007
($19, Henriot): Tavel, a lovely village in the south of France, is one of the few places in the world that makes only rosé. Not a by-product of a process to beef-up a red wine, this serious rosé has more substance than most. … Read more
Goats do Roam, Western Cape (South Africa) ‘White’ 2008
($10, Vineyard Brands): Although it’s Charles Back’s pun-laden labels that catch your attention, the wine in the bottle is what holds it. Hints—just hints—of apricot and peach-like flavors buttressed by good acidity makes this southern Rhone lookalike easy to recommend. Clean and fresh, without a trace of heaviness, it has surprising length, especially at the price.… Read more
Bouchard Finlayson, Walker Bay (South Africa) Chardonnay ‘Mission Vale’ 2006
($25, Leucadia Cellars and Estate): This Chardonnay is just another example of how South Africa is likely the most under appreciated country for fine wine. It walks the fine line between overt fruitiness and flavors characteristic of the New World and the restraint and tautness of white Burgundy. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($11): Chateau Ste. Michelle nearly always gets it right. They certainly did with this well-priced balanced Sauvignon Blanc. It has just the right combination of herbaceous flavors and acidity. It has a enlivening pungency without being shrill or aggressive. It’s perfect for summertime sipping with steamed clams.… Read more
Torres, Catalunya (Spain) Rosé “Sangro de Toro de Casta” 2008
($10, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Torres is one of Spain’s best known producers because they produce such a consistently high-quality array of wines. Delicate red fruit notes marry with vibrant acidity in this refreshing rosé. Dry and lively, keep a bottle chilled in the refrigerator to banish the humidity of summer.… Read more
Marqués de Cáceres, Rioja (Spain) Blanco 2008
($9, Vineyard Brands): Although primarily a region for red wines, Rioja does serve up whites, usually from the Macabeo grape, locally known as Viura. White wine from Rioja in the past was dreadful–heavy and oxidized–but now is often clean, bright and invigorating, especially in Marqués de Cáceres hands. … Read more
Fairview, Costal Region (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($13, Vineyard Brands): This South African rendition of Sauvignon Blanc falls somewhere in the middle of spectrum of styles that this grape can produce, falling between the laser-like edginess of one from New Zealand and the riper notes common to California. … Read more
Spice Route Winery, Coastal Region (South Africa) Viognier 2008
($23, Vineyard Brands): The team at Spice Route got it right with this Viognier, a grape that can be difficult to transform into a balanced wine. Floral notes reminiscent of honeysuckle grab your attention. On the palate, its fleshy texture and hints of peaches are balanced by solid acidity. … Read more
Bodegas Montecillo, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008
($13, Underdog Wine Merchants): Bodegas Montecillo, an excellent Rioja-based producer, is branching out. Like many established Spanish producers who are based outside of the Rias Baixas region on Spain’s northwest corner, Montecillo is jumping on the Albariño bandwagon with this wine they call Verdemar. … Read more
Taittinger, Champagne (France) Rosé “Prestige” NV
($75, Kobrand): I’m always skeptical when a producer labels a wine “prestige.” But this one deserves that moniker. It’s one of the best non-vintage Rosé Champagnes I have tasted in a long time. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it captures the power of the former and the elegance of the latter. … Read more
Alphonse Mellot, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Pouilly sur Loire, home to Pouilly-Fumé, sits just across the Loire River from Sancerre and, like that town, allows producers to use only Sauvignon Blanc for its wines. Despite the similar location and grape, Mellot’s Pouilly-Fumé’s stony, lean, laser-like edginess is very different from the chalky earthy notes found in his Sancerre (reviewed previously). … Read more
Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Rubicon” 2005
($28, Maisons Marques and Domaines): As good as Meerlust’s other wines are–and they are quite good–this one, their flagship, is delectable. The blend of the Bordeaux-style wine varies from vintage to vintage. The 2005 is roughly 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder split equally between Merlot and Cabernet Franc.… Read more
Meinert, Devon Valley (Stellenbosch, South Africa) “Synchronicity” 2004
($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Meinert puts Pinotage, the unique South African cross of Cinsault and Pinot Noir, to good use by adding a small–10%–of it in the this blend of equal parts Cabernet and Merlot. Pinotage by itself can be off-putting with its aroma that can sometimes smell like adhesive tape, but in this wine it adds a wonderfully exotic spice-like and component that supplements earthy notes and balances the lush fruitiness of the other varietals. … Read more
Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Demoiselles” 2008
($75, Boutique Wine Collection): Sancerre is a special place because Sauvignon Blanc planted here can have a unique flavor profile, unlike the taste of wines made from Sauvignon Blanc planted elsewhere. Sadly, these days as Sancerre has grown in popularity too many of its wines have lost their distinctiveness. … Read more
Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre Rosé (Loire Valley, France) “En Grands Champs” 2008
($27, Boutique Wine Collection): Most rosés are a by-product of the technique, saignée, used to bolster red wines. The distinctive rosés, such as this one, are the ones in which the producer sets out to make a rosé. And there is no better producer in Sancerre than Alphonse Mellot. … Read more
Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chardonnay 2007
($23, Maison Marques and Domaines): Meerlust, a family owned winery best known for their red wines, walks the line between the flamboyance of New World wine and the austerity and minerality of Burgundy with this captivating Chardonnay, the only white wine they produce. … Read more
Meerlust, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Merlot 2005
($27, Maison Marques and Domaines): While many California wineries are releasing their 2006 and 2007 Merlot, this 2005 is Meerlust’s current offering. As a family owned winery, Meerlust can avoid the bean counters’ focus on quarterly returns and hold the wine until they think its ready for release. … Read more
Château Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay “Indian Wells” 2007
($18): Château Ste. Michelle makes a superior range of well-priced wines. This one, made from a blend of grapes grown in a variety of vineyards, is a step up from their basic Columbia Valley Chardonnay. It combines subtle minerality with tropical fruit flavors and buttery nuances. … Read more
Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Petit Chenin” 2008
($9, Boutique Wine Collection): This wine is part of Ken Forrester’s Petit tier, the lowest of his three tiers of wine. By that ‘lowly’ stature shouldn’t deter you from buying it. Fruity without being sweet, it is lively and fresh and has surprising length, especially given its price. … Read more
Cape Point Vineyards, Cape Point (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc “Stonehaven” 2007
($23, Boutique Wine Collection): This is the only winery located in the Cape Point, a district south of Cape Town on a peninsula that separates the Atlantic Ocean from False Bay. But after sampling this wine, I expect to see more. … Read more
Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Shiraz Grenache 2005
($20, Boutique Wine Collection): Forrester says his Grenache vineyard, almost 50 years old, is the only one in Stellenbosch because the remaining ones were pulled up during apartheid by the government-run wine monopoly. That seems very unfortunate, judging from this wine, which manages to combine fresh fruit with slightly spiced gamey elements into a harmonious package. … Read more
Domaine de la Barroch, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Pure” 2006
($94, The Sorting Table): You have to search the bottle to know this wine is from Châteauneuf-du-Pape because that information is hidden on the back label. The front label–pure white–has just the word Pure on it. Fortunately, the contents of the bottle upstage the edgy labeling. … Read more