($121, Robert Kacher Selection): Maison Ambroise is a name you can trust in Burgundy. Their wines, from the lowliest appellation to the prestigious Grand Cru, such as this one, reflect the vintage and place beautifully. This gorgeous Corton Rognet is well structured with a solid core of dark minerality and luxurious, almost sweet, red and black fruit flavors. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Domaine de la Tour du Bon, Bandol (Provence, France) Rosé 2011
($20, Kermit Lynch): This serious rosé, a Mourvèdre dominant (55%) blend that includes other typical Mediterranean varieties of Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan, will convert those few remaining people (myself included) who believe rosés are inherently insipid. This one certainly is not–it’s real wine with herbal notes that complement the berry flavors. … Read more
Alamos, Salta (Argentina) Torrontés 2011
($13, Alamos USA): Despite representing only about 10 percent of Argentina’s white wine 
vineyards, Torrontés is rapidly becoming that country’s signature white wine grape. In Alamos’s current rendition, floral, Muscat-like aromas leap from the glass. Bright acidity prevents the ever so slight hint of sweetness from turning cloying and adds overall balance. … Read more
J. J. Prüm, Mosel (Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2011
($24, Valckenberg): J. J. Prüm, one of the very best producers in the Mosel, makes a consistently stunning array of vineyard designated wines, such as Wehlener Sonnenuhr or Graacher Himmelreich. You can buy them year in and year out and never be disappointed. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) NV
($22, Quintessential Wines): Crémant d’Alsace, especially from a top producer like Lorentz, is a under-
appreciated category. Less “serious” than Champagne, this is a creamy, soothing bubbly that is perfect for summer sipping. Dry and invigorating, without being astringent or aggressive, it works equally well with grilled fish or other main courses as it does as an aperitif.… Read more
Gérard Bertrand, Vin de Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) “Cigalus” 2009
($40, USA Wine West): One of the exciting things about the Vin de Pays wines is the flexibility the producer has compared to the rigid regulations of an Appellation d’origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine. With Cigalus, Gérard Bertrand has made the unconventional blend of Chardonnay (80%), Viognier (15%) and Sauvignon Blanc that works to create a stylish white wine. … Read more
Gérard Bertrand, Corbières Boutenac (Languedoc, France) “La Forge” 2009
($70, USA Wine West): Gérard Bertrand is one of the winemaking stars in the Languedoc. La Forge, his flagship red, is a blend of old (100-year) vine Carignan and Syrah from a single vineyard on his estate, Domaine de Villemajou in newly recognized appellation, Corbières Boutenac, carved out of Corbières because of its distinctive terroir. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2011
($20): Dr. Loosen, the famed German producer, and Chateau Ste. Michelle joined forces over a decade ago with the aim of making a stunning Riesling in Washington. Well, they’ve succeeded and its name is Eroica. The 2011, which may be their best ever, has a brilliant combination of lacey fruitiness–an almost Spätlese ripeness–offset by riveting acidity. … Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2009
($40, Kobrand): A special bottling to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, this Beaune Premier Cru is a blend of approximately 20 different premier cru vineyards, according to Frédéric Barnier, Jadot’s new technical director who will be replacing the legendary Jacques Lardière next year. … Read more
Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, California (United States) Arneis 2011
($16): The Arneis grape, originally grown in Piedmont and used to “soften” Barolo and now used there as a stand alone white wine, has migrated in tiny quantities to California and Oregon. Jacuzzi has made a lively and vivacious wine from this normally low acid grape. … Read more
Maison Ambroise, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Aires” 2009
($20, Robert Kacher Selection): The source–a fifth of the wine comes from the appellations of Nuits St Georges and Cotes de Nuits Village–and the 45 year average age of the vines explains why this wine is so remarkable. This very fragrant Bourgogne Rouge delivers an enchanting combination of red fruit flavors and earthy herbal notes. … Read more
Seifried, Nelson (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($18, Pacific Prime): 92 Michael Apstein Aug 1, 2012… Read more
Greywacke, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2010
($39, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Kevin Judd, the founding winemaker at Cloudy Bay, the winery that put New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on the world’s wine map, shows with this wine that he can also make distinctive Pinot Noir. After 25 years at Cloudy Bay, Judd and his wife, Kimberly, established Greywacke in 2009. … Read more
Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton (Burgundy, France) 2010
($94, Henriot, Inc.): Philippe Prost, Bouchard’s winemaker, has outdone himself with this Corton. A beautifully structured frame supports luxuriously ripe dark fruit. Subtle bitter cherry notes emerge from beneath polished tannins. A savory component in the finish adds to the intrigue.… Read more
Domaine Michel Lafarge, Côte de Beaune Villages (Burgundy, France) 2009
($34, Becky Wasserman Selection): Lafarge, a world-renowned producer of Volnay, makes other wines, albeit in small quantities. They are so good they are worth the search, especially in the case of this Côte de Beaune Villages, which is reasonably priced, at least for Burgundy and Lafarge. … Read more
Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) 2010
($160): Although a famous Grand Cru, Clos Vougeot is the source of highly variable wines because of the vast number of growers who own vines in this famed vineyard. Indeed, the Burgundy mantra of producer, producer, producer is doubly important here because the wines are never inexpensive. … Read more
Warre’s, Porto (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage 2001
($30, Vineyard Brands): Late Bottled Vintage Port, or LBV as it is commonly known, is an ideal way to savor some of the glories of Vintage Port without waiting the 
requisite two or three decades for the latter to mature in the bottle. … Read more
Bodegas Arrayán, Méntrida (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) “Selección” 2009
($20, Viño Cava): Méntrida, a small DO in the large Castilla-La Mancha region, is starting to rediscover itself. Although Garnacha is the most widely planted grape, some producers, such as Bodegas Arrayán, are experimenting with the so-called international varieties. Bodegas Arrayán, at least, seems to be making it work. … Read more
Domaine Pichot, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “La Peu d la Moriette” 2011
($16, Vineyard Brands): Vouvray in general can be difficult for consumers because their level of sweetness can be difficult to discern from the label. Thankfully, Pichot’s is an easy choice. Both fruity and zesty, it has a wonderful tension and balance between the subtle sweetness and bracing acidity. … Read more
Domaine Cherrier, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2011
($22, Vineyard Brands): One taste of Cherrier’s 2011 Sancerre explains why this appellation has been so popular. Flinty and chalky, almost smokey, notes accompany the pungency and vibrancy typical of Sauvignon Blanc. But it’s not a Sauvignon Blanc. Its beauty lies with its minerality rather than the all too often aggressive grassiness of that varietal.… Read more
Peregrine, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2009
($35, Vineyard Brands): Peregrine has fashioned a beautifully pure and pretty Pinot Noir from one of New Zealand’s premier regions (Martinborough’s another) for that varietal. Concentrated, yet not overdone, it would be a good choice for grilled salmon this summer. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012… Read more
Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010
($15, Vineyard Brands): 
Also known at “Black Label,” this is Château de la Ragotière’s top Muscadet, made from 50 year old vines. Yes, it’s bracing as Muscadet should be. But it has a lovely texture and depth–it must be the old vines speaking–that is lacking in most Muscadet. … Read more
Bodegas Parra Jimenez, La Mancha (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Graciano 2010
($11, Para Family Organic Imports): Although Graciano has the reputation of making a tough and tannic wine, Parra Jimenez has tamed it nicely. It’s a dense wine with an alluring combination of earth and explosive black fruit. Both savory and succulent, it would be a good choice for a butterflied leg of lamb on the grill. … Read more
Bodegas Angel Rodríquez/Martínsancho, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo “Martínsancho” 2010
($18, Classical Wines from Spain): Angel Rodríquez is credited with saving the Verdejo grape from extinction 
by refusing to replace it in the 1970s with more prolific varieties, such as Viura and Palomino, in his Martínsancho vineyard. I, like so many others, would like to thank him. … Read more
Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla La Mancha, Spain) Monastrell “Valcanto” 2010
($10, Vineyard Varieties): 
Bodegas Piqueras is the major producer of bottled (as opposed to bulk) wine in Almansa, a less well known DO in Castilla – La Mancha, Spain’s largest wine area. This wine, made entirely from Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvèdre) has appealing meaty or leathery undertones that offset its ripe bright fruitiness. … Read more
Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) “Castillo de Almansa Selección” 2007
($23, Vineyard Varieties): This high-octane (14.5% stated alcohol) blend of equal parts Garnacha Tintorera (aka Alicante), Monastrell, Tempranillo and Syrah, delivers power–no surprise there–and elegance. The Syrah adds a ripe pluminess without eviscerating the underlying intrigue and savory notes of the other grapes. … Read more
Kuentz-Bas, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2008
($16, Kermit Lynch): Pinot Blanc from Kuentz-Bas shows individuality with its slightly creamier profile. A clean citrus finish brings it all into focus. It can do double duty as a before dinner drink and an accompaniment to simple seafood. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012
Sipp, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2009
($12, Classic Wines): Never an “important” wine, Pinot Blanc ranges from insipid very satisfying. Put Sipp’s into the very satisfying–and bargain-priced–category. Unlike many Pinot Blanc on the market, Sipp’s has real character, with a firm edge and lively austerity. Steamed clams, anyone?… Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Réserve 2010
($14, Quintessential Wines): In Alsace, a wine labeled Pinot Blanc can be a blend of that grape and Auxerrois. The latter is often used to lend fatness to the wine. Lorentz’s, a blend of Auxerrois (90%) and Pinot Blanc, has the telltale richness of Auxerrois while maintaining great green apple-like freshness. … Read more
Zind-Humbrecht Grand Cru, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann “Clos St. Urbain” 2008
($70, The Sorting Table): 
Zind-Humbrecht is arguably the most renowned name in Alsace. The Clos St. Urbain is a particular plot within the Grand Cru Rangen vineyard (Thann is the town). This rich and lush Pinot Gris delivers ripe pear-like flavors coupled with subtle pineappley undertones. … Read more
Willm, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr 2009
($20, Touton): What a buy! With a whiff of cherries–I can see why the vineyard’s called Kirchberg–and bracing minerality, this is truly grand cru Riesling. Long and precise, it awakens the palate without assaulting it. A glass on a hot summer’s day is refreshingly clean and bright, but a couple of glasses with grilled swordfish and a caper butter sauce is even better.… Read more
Domaines Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Couvent des Jacobins” 2009
($22, Kobrand): This Bourgogne Rouge is a real treat from Jadot
because the grapes come entirely from the domains they control: 
Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot, and Domaine Gagey, which explains the labeling. No purchased grapes or wine go into this bottling, which distinguishes it from Jadot’s other Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Riesling “Jubilee” 2005
($51, Frederick Wildman): Hugel, one of Alsace’s top producers, eschews the Alsace’s Grand Cru classification system. They believe politics trumped terroir when vineyards
were awarded Grand Cru status. Hence, the Grand Cru designation will never appear on Hugel’s labels even though the wines come from Grand Cru sites. … Read more
Schoenheitz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut NV
($20, Oz Wine Company): Looking for a bright and zesty sparkling wine for summertime sipping? Here’s one suggestion from Alsace, a place well-known for its Riesling, Gewurztraminer and other still white wines, but somehow under the radar for bubbly. Its creamy suaveness is nicely balanced by an invigorating crisp edginess. … Read more
Mongeard-Mugneret, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2010
($24, Vineyard Brands): Mongeard-Mugneret, a small grower located in Vosne-Romanée, makes traditionally proportioned graceful Burgundies. They emphasize elegance and persistence rather than shear power. And those characteristics are evident in this Bourgogne Rouge. It’s a fine introduction to true Burgundy, showing the savory and earthy side of Pinot Noir.… Read more
Mongeard-Mugneret, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2010
($30): The Hautes Côtes, a far less prestigious area of Burgundy, is the source of good value wines from top-notch producers, such as Mongeard-Mugneret. This one packs a little more power than their straight Bourgogne Rouge that is coupled with a charming rusticity. … Read more
Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2009
($119, Vineyard Brands): Beaucastel is one of the top properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Year after year, they produce a multidimensional, age-worthy wine. Although Mourvèdre and Grenache, at about 30% each, comprise the majority of the blend, Beaucastel uses all 13 grape varieties permitted in the appellation, which may explain the phenomenal complexity of their wines, especially the 2009. … Read more
Parra Jimenez, La Mancha (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Graciano 2010
($11, Parra Family): Parra Jimenez has tamed Graciano, a tannic and dense grape sometimes used in Rioja, without eviscerating it. An intriguing mixture of fruit and earth flavors, it still delivers dense explosive black fruit flavors. But there’s also a savory, almost chewy component. … Read more
Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut 2002
($50, Laurent-Perrier USA): 
I was pleasantly surprised to find this Champagne still selling at the retail level at Garnet Wines and Liquors in Manhattan because most Champagnes from the excellent 2002 vintage have disappeared. It has the hallmark elegance of Laurent Perrier, a suave creaminess and lovely freshness despite 10 years of age.… Read more
Guigal, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2010
($57, Vintus): Condrieu, home to Viognier grape, can be a hard wine to get right. Viognier needs to be ripe to express its floral character, but not so ripe that the alcohol shows. Guigal hit the bulls eye with their 2010. … Read more
Bruno Paillard, Champagne Grand Cru (France) Blanc de Blancs “Réserve Privée” Brut NV
($100, Vintus): 
The grapes for this bottling come exclusively from four grand cru villages in the Côte des Blancs, the area within the Champagne region known for Chardonnay. One taste explains why many people swoon over a Blanc de Blancs Champagne. … Read more
Daniel Chotard, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2010
($25): The problem with Sancerre over the last two or three decades has been its popularity, both in the bistros of Paris and on these shores. The result has been a dilution of quality with many examples tasting more like Sauvignon Blanc and less like Sancerre. … Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2010
($18, Vintus): Wine lovers know Guigal is one of the top, if not the top, producers of red wines in the Rhône Valley. Their red Côte du Rhône is a consistent winner. Their white Côte du Rhone has been getting better and better as they’ve increased the proportion of Viognier in the blend. … Read more
Domaine du Gros’Noré, Bandol Blanc (Provence, France) 2009
($30, Kermit Lynch): Bandol, a small appellation bordering the Mediterranean, is well known for its sturdy Mourvedre-based red wines. But growers also make a tiny amount of white wine from the usual Mediterranean varieties, Bourboulenc, Clairette, and Ugni Blanc, as well as Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($24): Savennières, a tiny appellation on the Loire River, makes unique dry and racy wines from Chenin Blanc, a grape better known for sweet wines. Baumard is one of the appellation’s leading producers. Baumard’s 2008, bottled under screw cap to preserve freshness, has an alluring combination of honey-like, but not sweet, richness and savory, sharp, che 91 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2008
($38): As good as Baumard’s regular bottling of Savennières is, this one, from a 
particularly well-sited vineyard, is even better. With more complexity, the interplay of richness and savory herbal notes in the Clos du Papillon creates even more intrigue. Despite the increased concentration, this maintains impeccable balance and finesse.… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($70, Vintus): Quarts de Chaume, a tiny appellation in the Loire Valley, is capable of producing extraordinary sweet wines from the Chenin Blanc grape. Florent Baumard believes that the hallmark of the 2008 vintage is an uplifting acidity in the wines. … Read more
Guigal, St. Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Vignes de l’ Hospice” 2007
($145, Vintus): Hermitage and St. Joseph have precisely the same soil because when the Rhône River turned south, it sliced through the granite hill instead of coursing around it, putting Hermitage on the eastern bank and St. Joseph on its western bank. … Read more
Guigal, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2007
($32, Vintus): To my mind, Guigal is a genius. And this wine shows why. Gigondas is usually a big burly wine reflective of its home in the rugged area of the southern Rhone. With concentrated black fruit-like flavors sprinkled with black pepper notes, Guigal’s 2007 Gigondas certainly has the burly aspect covered. … Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($16, Vintus): As always, this “simple” Bordeaux is satisfying and a great value. The herbal nuances that accompany the mixture of fruit flavors are what make it so appealing. It has the length and grace you’d expect from a more expensive bottling. … Read more