All posts by admin

Léoville-Poyferré: Another Super Second?

A vertical tasting of 15 vintages of Château Léoville Poyferré paired with food at the French Embassy in Washington, D.C. earlier this month was proof that this venerable St. Julien property is on the rise. And while Cru Classé Bordeaux is never inexpensive, recent vintages of Léoville Poyferré are well-priced, especially compared to neighboring Château Léoville Las Cases.… Read more

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2016

 ($45):  Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, part of the Kendall-Jackson portfolio, prides itself on the mountainous location of its vineyards.  The conventional wisdom is that higher elevation vineyards are cooler, which allows slower ripening, better flavor development and better retention of acidity.  This Chardonnay, a blend from several vineyards, supports that idea. … Read more

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bear Point Vineyard 2016

($60):  Compared to their regular (multi-vineyard blend) Chardonnay, the one from Bear Point Vineyard has better density and is more elegant.  Although the concentration is what’s immediately noticeable, its elegance, especially in the finish, is what sticks in your mind. Judicious oak aging adds a subtle creaminess to its citrus-tinged flavors, making it a good choice for chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce.  … Read more

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Upper Barn Vineyard 2016

($100):  Stonestreet produces single vineyard Chardonnay, which, when tasted side-by-side, are distinctly different. Whether the differences are worth the price differential is something for you and your banker to decide.  Upper Barn Vineyard, at 1,800 ft elevation, must be an even cooler site because the wine is racier compared to the Bear Point Chardonnay.  … Read more

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Lyndenhurst” 2015

($82):  Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst bottling comes from a combination of their grapes that don’t make the cut for their top wine along with purchased grapes.  In that sense, it’s the Bordeaux equivalent of a “second” wine.  Second wines, whether in Bordeaux or California, are a good introduction to a producers’ style at a lower price. … Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Grand Reserve” 2014

($28):  This is Kendall-Jackson’s mid-tier Cabernet Sauvignon, positioned between their Vintner’s Reserve and their Alexander Valley Jackson Estate bottlings.  A balanced blend of five Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon [81%], Petit Verdot [9%], Merlot [5%], Cabernet Franc [3%] and Malbec), it’s focused on dark fruit flavors. … Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Jackson Estate” 2014

($40):  Kendall-Jackson’s Jackson Estate bottling is a giant step up from their other Cabernet Sauvignon offerings, presumably because it comes from a more rigorous selection of their grapes.  With more character and complexity, it mingles olive-tinged and herbal savory elements with a dark plum or cassis-like fruitiness. … Read more

Mt. Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “10 Barrels” 2015

($45):  Since their founding, Mt. Beautiful has always focused on making high-quality Pinot Noir.  The 2015 vintage was the first time they have produced a reserve bottling, labeled 10 Barrels, presumably because they used their top 10 barrels for the blend.  It’s a wonderful Pinot Noir, showing both the fruity and savory side of that grape. … Read more

Tenuta Carretta, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2012

($65):  Tenuta Carretta owns a small piece of Cannubi, arguably Barolo’s most famous vineyard.  A youthful Barolo, it delivers a haunting combination of floral elements followed by tarriness.  Paradoxically, it’s delicate, but with a substantial presence.  Its firm tannic structure is appropriate for its age and does not perturb the wine’s harmony and balance. … Read more

It’s not a Gambal…It Works

The newly established Gambal-Work partnership in the Sta. Rita Hills of California has just released their first wines, a pair of exquisitely exciting Chardonnays–some of the best I’ve had from California.  The enterprise draws on Alex Gambal’s 25 years of experience in Burgundy, where he is still making wines under the Alex Gambal label and that of Peter Work, a Dane who has considerable experience with vineyards in the Sta.… Read more

The Mother of All Wine Auctions

All hospitals have a Director.  But only one–Les Hospices de Beaune–has a Director of Winemaking.  (As a physician, I am especially interested in seeing that organizational chart.)  The hospital needs a director of winemaking because it owns vineyards–over 150 acres of them, 85 percent of which are classified as Premier and Grand Cru, making it one of the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy. … Read more

Principe Corsini, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Don Tommaso” 2015

($43): With the introduction of Gran Selezione several years ago, Chianti Classico has a quality pyramid with annata (regular or standard bottling) at the bottom, followed by Riserva and then Gran Selezione at the pinnacle.  With Don Tommaso, Principe Corsini shows they can produce a stunning more “modern” style of Chianti Classico that contrasts beautifully with their Riserva. … Read more

Principe Corsini, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Corti” 2015

($24):  Principe Corsini’s 2015 Chianti Classico exemplifies why Chianti Classico in general is so popular.  Bright and fresh, it delivers the ideal combination of red cherry-like fruitiness with haunting earthy, “not just fruit” flavors that give it complexity and character.  Lively acidity and smooth tannins make it the “go-to” red wine now. … Read more

Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Meritage 2014

($34):  While Jason-Stephens’ Cabernet and Merlot bottlings exhibit savory elements that complement their dark fruitiness, this bottling embraces bold fruitiness.  A ripe blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Merlot (30%), with equal parts of Malbec, Carmenere, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it weighs in at 15.1 percent stated alcohol. … Read more

Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Merlot 2014

($24):  Intriguing and welcome leafy and herbal nuances, a hallmark of real Merlot, complements the dark fruitiness that otherwise dominates.  A hint of chocolate, presumably from oak aging, either enhances or detracts, depending on your point of view.  The silky tannins in this blend of Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Malbec make it ideal for current consumption.   … Read more

French Bar, California (United States) Petite Sirah Rock Creek Family Vineyards 2016

($20): Petite Sirah is a difficult variety to tackle, with producers often overdoing everything.   French Bar manages to contain themselves with this one.  Weighing in at a modest — at least by Petite Sirah standards — stated 14.2 percent alcohol, this one is still robust, but with an enhancing spiciness that actually modulates its power.  … Read more

Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016

 

 ($48): The line-up of five 2016 Pinot Noirs from Merry Edwards is her best ever, in my opinion.  The five include this one from the Sonoma Coast, three single vineyard ones, Klopp Ranch, Flax Vineyard and Meredith Estate, from the Russian River Valley, and one labeled just “Vintage 20,” a blend of her top barrels from those and other vineyards she created to celebrate her 20th vintage. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2016

 ($66):  Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noir from the Klopp Ranch is spectacular, delivering black fruit-like power seasoned beautifully with spice and minerals.  With all its density, it’s still fresh and thankfully does not venture into the “Pinot-Syrah” category.  Despite its power, it’s paradoxically still restrained and amazingly complex. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “20th Vintage” 2016

 

($120):  This special bottling, a blend of the best barrels from selected vineyards, celebrates Merry Edwards’ 20th vintage under her name.  Aside from the sheer deliciousness of the wine, it makes an important point — single vineyard wines are not always superior to those made from a blend of several vineyards. … Read more

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2017

($18, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  The wines from Saint-Véran, a small appellation surrounding its more famous cousin, Pouilly-Fuissé, can offer exceptional value, especially when produced by someone like Drouhin.  Made entirely from Chardonnay, Drouhin’s Saint-Véran combines a lovely stoniness characteristic of the appellation and a hint of creamy seductiveness with the elegant and lacy Drouhin style. … Read more