($24): Intriguing and welcome leafy and herbal nuances, a hallmark of real Merlot, complements the dark fruitiness that otherwise dominates. A hint of chocolate, presumably from oak aging, either enhances or detracts, depending on your point of view. The silky tannins in this blend of Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Malbec make it ideal for current consumption. … Read more
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Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($28): Though the focus is firmly on dark fruit flavors, lovely olive-tinged savory notes come through in this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant (76%) Bordeaux-blend. Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc round out the blend. The oak influence is better integrated at this stage compared to their Merlot. … Read more
Freemark Abbey, Rutherford, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($70): Freemark Abbey, one of the iconic Napa Valley Cabernet producers, continues their streak with this concentrated and deep 2013 rendition. Under its hulking frame lies elegance and refinement. The tannins have a lovely dusty quality, appropriate for a youthful Rutherford Cabernet. … Read more
Eberle Winery, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Vineyard Selection” 2016
($25): Lovely herbal elements balance and enhance the dark fruit flavors in this Cabernet. Lip-smacking acidity imparts life and energy. Although a generous Cabernet, it is not out-sized. The “not just fruit” savory notes add complexity and supple tannins allow current consumption. … Read more
Arrowood Vineyards and Winery, Knights Valley, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($35): Knights Valley of Sonoma County has long been known as an excellent site for Cabernet Sauvignon. With good depth and length, this wine supports that region’s reputation. Subtle herbal notes accent its ripe dark fruit focus. Polished tannins mean it’s fine to drink this winter. … Read more
French Bar, California (United States) Petite Sirah Rock Creek Family Vineyards 2016
($20): Petite Sirah is a difficult variety to tackle, with producers often overdoing everything. French Bar manages to contain themselves with this one. Weighing in at a modest — at least by Petite Sirah standards — stated 14.2 percent alcohol, this one is still robust, but with an enhancing spiciness that actually modulates its power. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Costa Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Birillo” 2016
($19): Principe Corsini, a great Chianti Classico producer, has an estate in Maremma where the grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, for this wine are grown. With dark succulent fruit flavors and bright Tuscan acidity, the blend works. It’s a bold wine, but not over the top because of the energy the acidity provides. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2017
($36): Merry Edwards is clearly a very talented winemaker because not only does she produce stunning Pinot Noirs, she also makes incredible Sauvignon Blanc. Her 2017 seamlessly balances a subtle and welcome bite characteristic of the variety with a creamy, mineral-infused elegance to produce a dazzling array of flavors. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Chardonnay “Vintner’s Reserve” 2017
($17): Some would say that Kendall-Jackson (or “KJ” as it is sometimes called) created or at least stimulated America’s love-affair with Chardonnay with their “Vintner’s Reserve” decades ago. It has since become this country’s best-selling Chardonnay for 25 years, according to their website. … Read more
Banfi, Toscano IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Stilnovo” Governo all’Uso Toscano 2017
($15): The label notes, “Governo all’Uso Toscano,” which means the wine was made using the centuries-old governo method. With this technique, the winemaker held back some slightly over-ripe or even dried grapes to increase the body of the wine or to re-start a “stuck” fermentation — one that had stopped prematurely. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Vino Spumante (Italy) Brut Rosé NV
($23): It seems that everyone wants to get in on the rosé craze. Here we have a top Tuscan producer, well-known for their stunning Chianti Classico, making a bubbly from Sangiovese. It works. This bright and fresh rosé bubbly delivers delicate hints of strawberries. … Read more
Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Grand Cras 2017
($32): Realizing the diversity of soils within Morgon, the wine producers there divided that appellation into six fairly large (averaging about 450 acres) climats, one of which is Grand Cras. This one, from Mee Godard, one of the rising stars in Morgon, comes from a single 1-acre plot of 20-year-old vines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($48): The line-up of five 2016 Pinot Noirs from Merry Edwards is her best ever, in my opinion. The five include this one from the Sonoma Coast, three single vineyard ones, Klopp Ranch, Flax Vineyard and Meredith Estate, from the Russian River Valley, and one labeled just “Vintage 20,” a blend of her top barrels from those and other vineyards she created to celebrate her 20th vintage. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2016
($63): In terms of density, Merry Edwards 2016 Pinot Noir from the Flax Vineyard falls in between that of the one from the Sonoma Coast and the Klopp Ranch. It delivers a wonderfully complex combination of red fruit flavors, spice and herbs. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2016
($66): Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noir from the Klopp Ranch is spectacular, delivering black fruit-like power seasoned beautifully with spice and minerals. With all its density, it’s still fresh and thankfully does not venture into the “Pinot-Syrah” category. Despite its power, it’s paradoxically still restrained and amazingly complex. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2016
($68): Merry Edwards’ Meredith Estate Pinot Noir is always one of my favorites in her line-up. Is it a stand out because it’s one of her own vineyards, purchased and planted about 20 years ago? Whatever the reason, the 2016 is particularly magnificent. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “20th Vintage” 2016
($120): This special bottling, a blend of the best barrels from selected vineyards, celebrates Merry Edwards’ 20th vintage under her name. Aside from the sheer deliciousness of the wine, it makes an important point — single vineyard wines are not always superior to those made from a blend of several vineyards. … Read more
Banfi, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “L’Altra Anima” 2017
($17, Banfi Vintners): The name, L’Altra Anima, translates literally as “other soul,” presumably in reference to Barbera being the “other” major grape of Piedmont. It has the engaging spiciness and verve of Barbera with an unusual — and welcome — polished patina. … Read more
The 2017 Burgundies
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2017
($18, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The wines from Saint-Véran, a small appellation surrounding its more famous cousin, Pouilly-Fuissé, can offer exceptional value, especially when produced by someone like Drouhin. Made entirely from Chardonnay, Drouhin’s Saint-Véran combines a lovely stoniness characteristic of the appellation and a hint of creamy seductiveness with the elegant and lacy Drouhin style. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) Les Crays 2017
($16, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Véronique Drouhin explained that they have always purchased grapes from a variety of growers who have holdings in Les Crays, but this is the first year they decided to put the name of that lieu-dit (vineyard) on the label. … Read more
Domaine Mee Godard, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Michelons 2017
($27): Godard just acquired a vineyard in Moulin-à-Vent, expanding her holdings to about 16 acres in total. Au Michelon, located in the northern part of Moulin-à-Vent, has dark stones and dark sandy soil, according to Godard, which she says gives the wine a combination of power and elegance. … Read more
Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Corcelette 2017
($29): Mee Godard, a young woman originally from Korea, is one of the rising shining stars of Beaujolais. Her wines are not to be missed because of their precision and distinctiveness, not to mention their sheer deliciousness. Located in Morgan, she bottled three different wines in 2017 from various climats (vineyards) in that cru, Corcelette, Côte de Py and Grand Cras. … Read more
Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Côte de Py 2017
($37): The union of Morgon producers divided Morgon into six climats according to soil type about 50 years ago, according to Godard. Now, more and more producers there — and in Moulin-à-Vent as well — are putting these sites on labels. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2016
($50): Tongue Dancer, the project of experienced winemaker James MacPhail and Kerry MacPhail, is an odd name for a wine but is supposed to evoke the image of wines that dance on your tongue. If the name sounds odd, the label is even weirder. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2016
($37, Louis Latour USA): Latour’s En Caradeux, which always over delivers for the price, is true to form in 2016. Pure and delicate, the wine is nonetheless rich and long. It has the classic focus and harmony of Latour’s wines. This exhilarating wine shows there are still well-priced Burgundies. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2016
($55, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre’s 2016 Preuses is an exceptional wine at an exceptional price. Full-bodied with exotic undertones, it nonetheless conveys the firm minerality of great Chablis. Zesty, not shrill, the flavors jump from the glass and persist. A seemingly endless finish just adds to the appeal of this energetic wine.… Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2016
($35, Louis Latour USA): The Fourchaume vineyard, which sits adjacent to the strip of Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis, is considered to be among the top 1er Cru vineyards. This wine has the added richness and depth characteristic of Fourchaume without scarifying any verve or energy. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bouzeron (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Gagey” 2016
($29, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Bouzeron is the only white wine appellation in Burgundy that prohibits Chardonnay in favor of another grape, Bourgogne Aligoté, because the soil is particularly well-suited to it. Although wines labeled Bourgogne Aligoté can been thin and harsh, the wines from Bouzeron generally are not. … Read more
Domaine Paul Pernot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2017
($26): Domaine Paul Pernot, one of the leaders in Puligny-Montrachet, seemingly can do no wrong with their white wines. Year in and year out, my notes indicate you can buy any of his white wines and be happy. Take this Bourgogne Blanc, which comes exclusively from Chardonnay grown in plots located just outside the delineated area of Puligny-Montrachet. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2016
($75, Louis Latour USA): Les Chaillots is one of the many vineyards where Louis Latour owns vines. Hence the labeling, Domaine Louis Latour. The 2016 vintage received a bad rap because of the horrible weather that reduced yields dramatically. The weather may have been bad, but many of the 2016s, such as this one, are excellent. … Read more
Château Lagrange, Saint-Julien (Médoc, Bordeaux, France) 2015
($55): The 2015 vintage for red Bordeaux is, by and large, wonderful. In general, the wines deliver ripe flavors accompanied by sufficient structure — tannins and acidity — that prevent them from falling all over themselves. Château Lagrange, which has just gone from strength to strength over the last two decades, made an impressive wine in 2015. … Read more
Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2017
($28, Kermit Lynch): Château Thivin is THE producer Côte de Brouilly, one of the ten crus of Beaujolais, which sits on a small ancient volcanic cone. The Geoffray family purchased the estate, which had been in existence since the 12th century, in 1877. … Read more
Château Thivin, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Reverdon” 2017
($24, Kermit Lynch): Château Thivin owns about 18 acres of this 65-acre east-facing vineyard in Brouilly, the largest and most southern of Beaujolais’ ten cru. Lighter and fruitier than their Côte de Brouilly, it still conveys underlying minerality because of the rose-granite soil in the vineyard. … Read more
Steele, Red Hills, Lake County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($28): What’s particularly impressive about this Cabernet Sauvignon is the complexity and poise it delivers for the price. It should be surprise because of Jed Steele’s experience and the source of the grapes. The Red Hills part of Lake County is a relatively new AVA. … Read more
ZD Wines, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($75): ZD has produced a quintessential Napa Valley Cabernet and shows, once again, why that region is one of the best places in the world for that grape. It’s a powerful Cabernet — it is from California, after all — but it has elegance and is not overdone. … Read more
Steele, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard 2016
($36): Jed Steele has captured the lovely delicacy and subtle savory notes that are the hallmarks of Pinot Noir. Lively acidity keeps it fresh, while fine tannins allow enjoyment now, without additional bottle aging. It finishes with a hint of sweetness, which allows you to enjoy a glass by itself while preparing to grill the salmon.… Read more
Rivera, Castel del Monte DOC (Puglia, Italy) Nero di Troia “Violante” 2015
($17): Nero di Troia, a virtually unknown grape outside of Puglia, is capable of making attractively rustic — in a good way — wine. This one packs a punch, but without the rough tannins that frequently accompany that kind of power. … Read more
Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia Aglianico DOC (Campania, Italy) “Rubrato” 2015
($17, Terlato Wines International): Wines made from the Aglianico grape are often referred to as the Barolo of the South because of their firm tannins, high acidity, overall depth and need for bottle age to bring all the components together. Feudi San Gregorio has managed to marry these elements in this Aglianico and make it a pleasure to drink now — as long as you select the correct food and time of year. … Read more
Columbia Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($16): This is why people love Cabernet. Not just fruit, but enticing hints of herbs and savory notes penetrate this wine. Similar to Columbia Winery’s Merlot, this Cabernet finishes with bitterness, not sweetness, which I find is essential if you want to drink more than a sip. … Read more
Columbia Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2016
($16): Here is a reminder that good character-filled wine is available for less than $20. A solid and deep Merlot, it combines herbal nuances with dark fruit notes. Supple tannins mean it’s perfect for a hearty beef dish tonight. A delectable hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces the idea that this Merlot is meant more for the table than for, “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” at the bar.… Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) “The Mariner” 2014
($52): This is a Cabernet-based powerhouse Bordeaux blend that includes, in addition to that grape, Petit Verdot, Malbec (yes, it used to be, and still is, planted in Bordeaux), and Cabernet Franc. Despite its depth and power, the finely polished tannins allow for current consumption. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2016
($22): Full disclosure, I generally do not like Zinfandel, so I may be under scoring this wine. This is a masterful blend of Zinfandel (78%) from dry-farmed, 95-plus year old vineyards, Petite Sirah and Carignan. Dry-farmed vineyards ensure that the roots of the vines go deep to find water and presumably other compounds that add to the flavor of the grapes and, subsequently, to the wine. … Read more
Donnafugata, Cerasuolo de Vittorio DOCG (Sicily, Italy) “Floramundi” 2016
($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, has shown consistently what stunningly good wines can come from that Italian island. Donnafugata’s 2016 Cerasuolo de Vittorio, a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato, is a delicate light to mid-weight floral red wine with charm and vivacity. … Read more
Chianti Classico: The Times They are A-Changing
With apologies to Bob Dylan, “The Times They are A-Changing” in Chianti Classico. Three decades ago, producers were embracing the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other so-called “international varieties,” to bolster Sangiovese. But now, with dramatic improvements in the vineyards, growers have shown the heights that Sangiovese can achieve in Chianti Classico. … Read more
Guicciardini Strozzi, Bolgheri DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Ocra” 2016
($30): A seamless blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%) and Syrah, this classy red delivers far more refinement and complexity than you’d expect for the price. It conveys a touch of everything — black fruit notes, herbal nuances, and spice — and not too much of anything. … Read more
Castello di Meleto, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Borgaio Rosso” 2015
($12, Golden Ram Imports): Borgaio di Meleto is a second label of Meleto, one of the top Chianti Classico producers. A value-packed juicy blend of Sangiovese (70%) and Merlot, this mid-weight red delivers both fruity and herbal elements. Surprising complexity for a wine of this price likely comes from a touch of oak aging in large old barrels. … Read more
Castello di Meleto, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($20, Golden Ram Imports): Castello di Meleto, a top Chianti Classico producer based in Gaiole, has abandoned new French oak barrels for aging their Chianti Classico and eliminated the international varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, in the blend. Instead, the wine is 100 percent Sangiovese that has been aged in large old Slavonian oak barrels. … Read more
Castello di Meleto, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneti Casi Riserva 2013
($25, Golden Ram Imports): The wines from Castello di Meleto need to be re-visited because the current releases deliver extraordinary pleasure for the price. This marvelous Chianti Classico Reserva from their Vigneti Casi vineyards is both juicy and polished with a gorgeous texture. … Read more
Guicciardini Strozzi, Bolgheri DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Ocra” 2016
($30): A seamless blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%) and Syrah, this classy red delivers far more refinement and complexity than you’d expect for the price. It conveys a touch of everything — black fruit notes, herbal nuances, and spice — and not too much of anything. … Read more