All posts by admin

Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Merlot 2014

($24):  Intriguing and welcome leafy and herbal nuances, a hallmark of real Merlot, complements the dark fruitiness that otherwise dominates.  A hint of chocolate, presumably from oak aging, either enhances or detracts, depending on your point of view.  The silky tannins in this blend of Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Malbec make it ideal for current consumption.   … Read more

French Bar, California (United States) Petite Sirah Rock Creek Family Vineyards 2016

($20): Petite Sirah is a difficult variety to tackle, with producers often overdoing everything.   French Bar manages to contain themselves with this one.  Weighing in at a modest — at least by Petite Sirah standards — stated 14.2 percent alcohol, this one is still robust, but with an enhancing spiciness that actually modulates its power.  … Read more

Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016

 

 ($48): The line-up of five 2016 Pinot Noirs from Merry Edwards is her best ever, in my opinion.  The five include this one from the Sonoma Coast, three single vineyard ones, Klopp Ranch, Flax Vineyard and Meredith Estate, from the Russian River Valley, and one labeled just “Vintage 20,” a blend of her top barrels from those and other vineyards she created to celebrate her 20th vintage. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2016

 ($66):  Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noir from the Klopp Ranch is spectacular, delivering black fruit-like power seasoned beautifully with spice and minerals.  With all its density, it’s still fresh and thankfully does not venture into the “Pinot-Syrah” category.  Despite its power, it’s paradoxically still restrained and amazingly complex. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “20th Vintage” 2016

 

($120):  This special bottling, a blend of the best barrels from selected vineyards, celebrates Merry Edwards’ 20th vintage under her name.  Aside from the sheer deliciousness of the wine, it makes an important point — single vineyard wines are not always superior to those made from a blend of several vineyards. … Read more

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2017

($18, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  The wines from Saint-Véran, a small appellation surrounding its more famous cousin, Pouilly-Fuissé, can offer exceptional value, especially when produced by someone like Drouhin.  Made entirely from Chardonnay, Drouhin’s Saint-Véran combines a lovely stoniness characteristic of the appellation and a hint of creamy seductiveness with the elegant and lacy Drouhin style. … Read more

Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Corcelette 2017

 ($29):  Mee Godard, a young woman originally from Korea, is one of the rising shining stars of Beaujolais.  Her wines are not to be missed because of their precision and distinctiveness, not to mention their sheer deliciousness.  Located in Morgan, she bottled three different wines in 2017 from various climats (vineyards) in that cru, Corcelette, Côte de Py and Grand Cras. … Read more

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2016

($55, Louis Latour USA):  Simonnet-Febvre’s 2016 Preuses is an exceptional wine at an exceptional price.   Full-bodied with exotic undertones, it nonetheless conveys the firm minerality of great Chablis.   Zesty, not shrill, the flavors jump from the glass and persist.   A seemingly endless finish just adds to the appeal of this energetic wine.Read more

Domaine Paul Pernot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2017


($26):  Domaine Paul Pernot, one of the leaders in Puligny-Montrachet, seemingly can do no wrong with their white wines.  Year in and year out, my notes indicate you can buy any of his white wines and be happy.  Take this Bourgogne Blanc, which comes exclusively from Chardonnay grown in plots located just outside the delineated area of Puligny-Montrachet. Read more

Château Lagrange, Saint-Julien (Médoc, Bordeaux, France) 2015

($55):  The 2015 vintage for red Bordeaux is, by and large, wonderful.  In general, the wines deliver ripe flavors accompanied by sufficient structure  — tannins and acidity — that prevent them from falling all over themselves.  Château Lagrange, which has just gone from strength to strength over the last two decades, made an impressive wine in 2015. Read more

Feudi di San Gregorio, Irpinia Aglianico DOC (Campania, Italy) “Rubrato” 2015

($17, Terlato Wines International):  Wines made from the Aglianico grape are often referred to as the Barolo of the South because of their firm tannins, high acidity, overall depth and need for bottle age to bring all the components together.  Feudi San Gregorio has managed to marry these elements in this Aglianico and make it a pleasure to drink now — as long as you select the correct food and time of year. Read more

Columbia Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2016

($16):  Here is a reminder that good character-filled wine is available for less than $20.  A solid and deep Merlot, it combines herbal nuances with dark fruit notes.  Supple tannins mean it’s perfect for a hearty beef dish tonight.  A delectable hint of bitterness in the finish reinforces the idea that this Merlot is meant more for the table than for, “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” at the bar.Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2016

($22):  Full disclosure, I generally do not like Zinfandel, so I may be under scoring this wine.  This is a masterful blend of Zinfandel (78%) from dry-farmed, 95-plus year old vineyards, Petite Sirah and Carignan.  Dry-farmed vineyards ensure that the roots of the vines go deep to find water and presumably other compounds that add to the flavor of the grapes and, subsequently, to the wine. Read more

Chianti Classico: The Times They are A-Changing

With apologies to Bob Dylan, “The Times They are A-Changing” in Chianti Classico.  Three decades ago, producers were embracing the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other so-called “international varieties,” to bolster Sangiovese.  But now, with dramatic improvements in the vineyards, growers have shown the heights that Sangiovese can achieve in Chianti Classico. Read more

Castello di Meleto, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Borgaio Rosso” 2015

($12, Golden Ram Imports):  Borgaio di Meleto is a second label of Meleto, one of the top Chianti Classico producers.  A value-packed juicy blend of Sangiovese (70%) and Merlot, this mid-weight red delivers both fruity and herbal elements.  Surprising complexity for a wine of this price likely comes from a touch of oak aging in large old barrels. Read more