($69, Frederick Wildman and Sons): Pouilly-Fuissé doesn’t get any better than this. Le Clos, sure to be classified as a premier cru vineyard when the classification system for Pouilly-Fuissé goes into effect in the next year or so, is owned solely — a monopole — by Château de Fuissé, one of the top producers in the appellation. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Mâcon-Chaintré (Burgundy, France) “Réserve des Rochers” 2015
($12): Chaintré is one of the communes that comprise the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. If a wine comes exclusively from vineyards in the village, but lie outside of that famous appellation, they can carry the name of village instead of the more generic appellation of Mâcon-Villages. … Read more
Domaine Vaudon, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2015
($35, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The 2015 vintage in Burgundy was outstanding for both reds and whites. Reds belong in the cellar, while the whites are delicious for earlier drinking as this one demonstrates. Domaine Vaudon is the Drouhin estate in Chablis where they make sensational wines. … Read more
Awful Weather in Burgundy, But Some Awesome Wines from 2016
Usually it is perfect weather during the growing season that results in exceptional wines. Think 2005, 2009 or 2015 in Burgundy. Those “ideal weather” vintages produced excellent wines almost across the board. In 2016, the capriciousness of Nature was apparent: Hail ravaged some vineyards, destroying the entire crop, but leaving a neighboring vineyard untouched. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2015
($23): After tasting this lovely Rully, a word Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson once used to describe a wine sprang to mind: “Delish!” Fresh and juicy, there’s not a hint of over-ripeness in mid-weight red. A hint of earthiness adds intrigue to this well-proportioned ready-to-drink village wine. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2016
($30): Mercurey, an often-overlooked village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to well-priced authentic Burgundy, both red and white. In this era of stratospheric prices for Burgundies, consumers should search for wines from this village. Château de Chamirey, one of the finest producers in the Côte Chalonnaise, made a superb array of Mercurey wines in 2016. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Maladière 2015
($35): This is the first vintage that Château de Chamirey decided to bottle wine from this 3.5-acre vineyard separately. Half went into this bottling, while the other half went into their village Mercurey blend. Although not from a premier cru vineyard, this 2015 tastes like a premier cru wine. … Read more
Domaine de Clos Salomon, Givrey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Salomon 2016
($35): Domaine Salomon is a — perhaps the — star in Givrey, yet another under-rated village in the Côte Chalonnaise. (Don’t confuse this village with Gevrey, as in Chambertin, in the Côte d’Or.) This wine, their flagship, hails from a 17.5-acre that they own exclusively. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2016
($118, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Vaudésir, along with Le Clos, sit atop most critics’ lists — certainly mine — of top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. To me, the wines from Vaudésir, in the hands of the best producers, combine power with elegance and epitomize the stature of Grand Cru classification. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2016
($48, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Vaillon is a large well-known 1er cru vineyard on the Left Bank in Chablis that is composed of many plots. Christian Moreau’s plot, where the average age of the vines is 56 years, according to their website, is in the heart of the vineyard. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon “Cuvée Guy Moreau” 2016
($75, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Fabien Moreau, the current winemaker, says that this portion of their plot in the Vaillon vineyard was planted by his grandfather, Guy, 83 years ago and contain the oldest vines of their estate. Located on the steepest part of the slope, the vines have excellent exposure and drainage. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) 2016
($25, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Aviron’s Moulin-à-Vent dazzles with a paradoxical firmness and fleshiness. The tannins are fine, not hard or astringent. You can almost taste the granitic soil of this cru in this tightly wound wine. Uplifting brightness in the finish amplifies its appeal.… Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Morgon (Burgundy, France) Côte de Py 2016
($25, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Morgon, along with Moulin-à-Vent, are the two cru that produce the sturdiest wines that often need several years of bottle age to show their true beauty. The Côte de Py is an area within Morgon made of black volcanic soil that imparts an austere mineral-like quality to the wines. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Juliénas (Burgundy, France) 2016
($21, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): While not as ripe and fleshy as the 2015 wines from Beaujolais, the 2016s are racier while maintaining charm for which the region is known. Aviron’s Juliénas borrows a bit of the density of his Chénas and combines it with an alluring spice. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Chénas (Burgundy, France) 2016
($22, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Stéphane Aviron makes wines from many of the crus of Beaujolais, the ten villages that have the potential to produce distinctive wines that stand apart from those labeled Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages. (Indeed, wines from these villages rarely put Beaujolais on the label.) … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2016
($14): One of Drouhin’s talents is that, along with their top-notch prestigious Burgundies, they make high-quality wines from appellations with lesser pedigrees, such as Macon-Villages. This Chardonnay-based wine, while ripe for Drouhin’s style, still does not approach the opulence seen in many New World Chardonnay. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) 2014
($20, Louis Latour USA): Viré-Clessé is an under-the-radar appellation in the Mâconnais that was created in the late 1990s from combining two villages, Viré and Clessé, that made distinctive wines that were previously included under the umbrella of Mâcon-Villages. It joins St.… Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2014
($75, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre, a top-notch Chablis producer, makes classically structured Chablis — tightly wound and linear. Their Preuses, from their own vineyards, is always one of their best wines. Preuses has the reputation of being one of the least elegant of the Chablis Grand Cru. … Read more
Château de Fleurie, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015
($21, David Bowler Wine): Sensational is the word that comes to mind when describing the 2015 vintage in Beaujolais. Of course, we are talking about the cru of Beaujolais, the ten villages within that region whose wines stand apart from the remainder of the region, which explains why the name of the cru alone — without the word Beaujolais — appears on the label. … Read more
Georges Duboeuf, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Domaine des Quatre Vents 2015
($18, Quintessential): The reputation of Beaujolais is that of an easy-drinking fruity wine to be consumed soon after release. That description may be accurate for most Beaujolais, but not those from ten villages, known as the cru of Beaujolais, whose wines are far more distinctive. … Read more
Caiarossa, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Pergolaia” 2013
($23): Though technically, the “third” wine from Caiarossa, the Pergolaia would finish first in a line-up of similarly priced Tuscan wines. Of the seven red grape varieties planted at Caiarossa, the Pergolaia relies on the three most usually found in Super Tuscans: Sangiovese (88%), Cabernet Sauvignon (8%) and Merlot. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Mâconnais, Burgundy, France) 2015
($20, Dreyfus Ashby): The 2015 vintage in Burgundy delivered outstanding reds and whites. It’s a rare vintage that is successful for both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but 2015 was. The reds, for the most part, though engaging now, are best put in the cellar. … Read more
Domaine Long-Depaquit, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($20): Domaine Long-Depaquit, owned by the top-notch Beaune-based négociant, Albert Bichot, is one of the best estates in Chablis. Domaine Long-Depaquit is the sole owner of an icon of Chablis, La Moutonne, a unique Grand Cru that encompasses vines in both the vineyards of Vaudésir and Les Preuses. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2015
($29, Dreyfus Ashby): Drouhin’s elegant and lacey style is a perfect fit for the ripe red wines of 2015. The reds from Santenay, a low-keyed village at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune bordering Chassagne-Montrachet, can have a rustic edge to them. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2015
($26, Dreyfus Ashby): The solution to finding affordable Burgundy in the era of the region’s explosive popularity — and rising prices — is embracing village wines from top producers in great years, such as this one. The 2015 red Burgundies are spectacular. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2015
($25): With the current market and demand for Burgundy pushing prices into the stratosphere, it’s rewarding to fine a wine like Latour’s Santenay. For those who believe that authentic Burgundy is always expensive, I suggest you try this one. Nature was kind to Burgundy in 2015, providing a touch of extra ripeness and perfectly healthy grapes. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2015
($26, Louis Latour USA): Here’s another example of a well-priced Burgundy from the exceptional 2015 vintage. Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to fine Pinot Noir-based Burgundy. Latour’s delivers bright cherry-like fruitiness buttressed by a firm mineral edge characteristic of the wines from Mercurey. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton (Burgundy, France) Château Corton Grancey 2015
($132, Louis Latour USA): Although Latour owns portions of Romanée St. Vivant and Chambertin, Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, I consider this Grand Cru from the Côte de Beaune to be their flagship red wine. Latour has always felt that blending wines from different Grand Cru parcels on the Corton hill, a practice the Domaine de la Romanée Conti has embraced now that they have vineyards in Corton, produces the most compete expression of Corton.… Read more
Château du Basty, Régnié (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015
($16, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): The wines from Régnié, the last of the 10 villages in Beaujolais to achieve cru status, have a tendency to be hard and rustic. Not this one. This Régnié from the Château du Basty shows great refinement. … Read more
Didier Montchovet, Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2014
($29, Jenny & François Selections): Since the prices for Côte d’Or Burgundy have gone through the roof, Burgundy lovers must look elsewhere. The Hautes Côtes de Beaune, the hinterland really off the beaten track, is a good starting point if you can find a producer who can tame the inherent rusticity in wines from this appellation.… Read more
Domaine Oudin, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaugiraut 2014
($35, Jenny & François Selections): Chablis remains one of the best values in white wine. Where else can you find a Chardonnay-based wine, a premier cru no less, with such character for the price? Nowhere. Domaine Oudin uses no oak aging, enhancing the complexity and body of this wine by stirring the lees. … Read more
Didier Montchovet, Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2014
($28, Jenny & François Selections): Didier Montchovet tames the coarseness found in many wines from the “Hautes Côtes.” In this Pinot Noir-based example, he has fashioned a charmingly rustic Burgundy than marries earthy and fruity qualities. Montchovet must be talented, indeed, to produce a red like this from the Hautes Côtes in 2014, a difficult year for Pinot Noir in that appellation. … Read more
Domaine Louis Michel, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2014
($66): My advice to Chablis-lovers is to snap up this wine. It’s really no surprise since it’s a trifecta: Louis Michel is a great producer of pure distinctive Chablis, Vaudésir along with Les Clos are the two top Grand Cru vineyard sites in Chablis, and 2014 was a stellar vintage for white Burgundy in general. … Read more
Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Coteau de Fontanay” 2016
($29, David Bowler Wine): Though another one of Piuze’s village Chablis comes from Fontanay, not far from Fyé, it has a very different signature, showing there are dramatic differences between the communes than make up the greater Chablis appellation. Piuze’s 2016 Coteau de Fontanay has a touch more ripeness and roundness than his Terroir de Fyé, while maintaining an underlying and balancing vivacity and edginess. … Read more
Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Terroir de Fyé” 2016
($29, David Bowler Wine): There is a longstanding tradition of identifying vineyards when making Chablis Premier and Grand Cru. Fewer producers do that with village wines, preferring to simply label the wine Chablis. Piuze, who like many relatively new small négociants owns no vineyards, opting instead to buy grapes from local growers, is able to take an intermediate approach. … Read more
Domaine des Gandines, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) NV
($17): Domaine des Gandines, a family run winery located in the Mâconnais, produces a variety of still white wines from that region, Viré-Clessé, and Macon-Peronne, that are available in the U.S. This Crémant, as good as it is — and well priced to boot — is not available yet, but hopefully that will change.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Volnay (Burgundy, France) 2015
($50): As the 2015 red Burgundies begin to hit retailers’ shelves, they confirm my initial enthusiasm for this vintage. Take, for example, this Volnay, a village wine from one of Burgundy’s top négociants. Floral and lacey, it conveys the quintessential Burgundy characteristic that I call “flavor without weight.” … Read more
Château des Jacques, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2015
($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This Fleurie comes from two sites within the village. (Jadot has yet to make a single vineyard wine from Fleurie.) One site is at a higher elevation and cooler, which Cyril Chirouze, Château des Jacques’ winemaker, says provides grapes that impart elegance to the wine, while the other warmer site provides power. … Read more
Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) 2015
($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This Moulin à Vent combines the best of Fleurie and Morgon. It’s remarkably fresh and approachable with juicy fruitiness and deep mineral-like flavors. You can almost taste the granite soil. It has less spice compared to the 2015 Château des Jacques Morgon, but silkier tannins. … Read more
Château des Jacques, Morgon (Burgundy, France) 2015
($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Anyone who doubts that Beaujolais can excite needs to taste Château des Jacques’ 2015 trio of Morgon, Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent, three of the 10 Beaujolais crus. The crus are 10 villages in the northern part of the region whose bedrock is either pink granite or a blue-black volcanic stone and whose wines are so distinctive that only the name of the village, not Beaujolais, appears on the label. … Read more
2015 Burgundies: Superb for Both Colors…Don’t Miss Them
After having tasted literally hundreds of barrel samples from négociants and small growers while on my annual pilgrimage to Burgundy in November, followed by a series of important importers’ tastings New York City earlier this year, (again, mostly barrel samples), it’s clear to me that the 2015 Burgundies are stunning.… Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2014
($35, Louis Latour USA): Fourchaume is a Premier Cru vineyard that lies on the right bank of the Serein River, adjacent to the string of Grand Cru vineyards. To my mind, it is typically the most opulent of the premier crus with more ripeness and less minerality than the others. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2014
($28, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains, in my mind, the most undervalued area for top white wine. And for those looking for “unoaked Chardonnay,” it is that style’s birthplace. Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, acquired Simonnet-Febrve, a house established in 1840, in 2003 and a year later installed Jean-Philippe Archambaud as managing director. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2014
($30, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre owns a piece of the Mont de Milieu vineyard, which may explain why it is always one of their top wines. Mont de Milieu (literally, the mountain in the middle), located on the right bank of Serein River near the strip of Grand Cru vineyards, takes its name from its location in the middle, separating the dukedoms of Burgundy and Champagne of the past. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2014
($95, Louis Latour USA): In addition to using some fruit from their holdings in Clos du Roi vineyard, Latour also bottles a wine made exclusively from grapes grown there. Wines from Corton Clos du Roi often have a plushness and luxurious texture — showing it’s good to be the King — that make them especially attractive. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton (Burgundy, France) Grancey 2014
($117, Louis Latour USA): Latour’s Corton Grancey, a Grand Cru and their flagship wine, is a blend of four Grand Cru vineyards on the hill of Corton: Corton-Perrieres, Corton-Bressandes, Corton-Clos du Roi, and Corton-Grèves. The proportion each vineyard contributes to the finished wine varies vintage to vintage. … Read more
The Renaissance at Jessiaume: A Multi-National Collaboration
In parochial Burgundy, where even French citizens from outside the region are viewed with skepticism, an American–and a woman no less–is leading the Anglo-American-French team that is intent on resurrecting Domaine Jessiaume. With the quintessential Burgundian tiles adorning their building, Domaine Jessiaume, which dates from the mid-19th century, is one of Santenay’s iconic properties. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2015
($41, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils labels his Vaillon as the singular, omitting the “s” to emphasize that their grapes come from the original and heart of the vineyard, not an adjacent vineyard that is allowed to use the name Vaillons. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2015
($29, Frederick Wildman & Sons): With everyone raving about the Chablis and other white Burgundies from the 2014 vintage, those wines from 2015 may be overlooked, which would be a shame. Domaine Christian Moreau made an exceptional village Chablis in 2015, a year that produced riper whites compared to 2014. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This sensational bargain is clearly marketed to New World wine drinkers with the word Chardonnay in large type emblazoned on the label. Marketing aside, with zesty energy and a hint of seductive creaminess, its flavor profile and character shouts — in a refined way — white Burgundy. … Read more