Category Archives: Reviews

Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “La Foret” 2006

($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): All Burgundy is highly dependent on producer, but none more than those labeled Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy’s lowliest appellation seen on these shores.  Since Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s top producers, don’t miss this one.  This value-packed 2006 La Foret, their basic red Burgundy, delivers simple, straightforward red and black fruit flavors intertwined with just a hint of earthy, leafy notes. … Read more

Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Clifford Bay Reserve 2008

($32, Vineyard Brands): Although not from a single vineyard, this is one of Villa Maria’s upscale—and excellent—bottlings of Sauvignon Blanc.  From a variety of vineyards in the Awatere region of Marlborough, this Sauvignon Blanc has the hallmark Marlborough grapefuit-like edginess and pungency, but with an unusual density, length and refinement. … Read more

Goats do Roam, Western Cape (South Africa) ‘White’ 2008

($10, Vineyard Brands): Although it’s Charles Back’s pun-laden labels that catch your attention, the wine in the bottle is what holds it.  Hints—just hints—of apricot and peach-like flavors buttressed by good acidity makes this southern Rhone lookalike easy to recommend.  Clean and fresh, without a trace of heaviness, it has surprising length, especially at the price.… Read more

Alphonse Mellot, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2008

($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Pouilly sur Loire, home to Pouilly-Fumé, sits just across the Loire River from Sancerre and, like that town, allows producers to use only Sauvignon Blanc for its wines.  Despite the similar location and grape, Mellot’s Pouilly-Fumé’s stony, lean, laser-like edginess is very different from the chalky earthy notes found in his Sancerre (reviewed previously). … Read more

Meinert, Devon Valley (Stellenbosch, South Africa) “Synchronicity” 2004

($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Meinert puts Pinotage, the unique South African cross of Cinsault and Pinot Noir, to good use by adding a small–10%–of it in the this blend of equal parts Cabernet and Merlot.  Pinotage by itself can be off-putting with its aroma that can sometimes smell like adhesive tape, but in this wine it adds a wonderfully exotic spice-like and component that supplements earthy notes and balances the lush fruitiness of the other varietals. … Read more

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Shiraz Grenache 2005

($20, Boutique Wine Collection): Forrester says his Grenache vineyard, almost 50 years old, is the only one in Stellenbosch because the remaining ones were pulled up during apartheid by the government-run wine monopoly.  That seems very unfortunate, judging from this wine, which manages to combine fresh fruit with slightly spiced gamey elements into a harmonious package. … Read more

Chateau St. Jean, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Belle Terre Vineyard 2006

($25): Certainly compared to the Robert Young Chardonnay (reviewed this week and previously), this is a full-blown–yet not ‘over the top’–Chardonnay.  A buttery, toasty quality seems to magnify the ripe tropical fruit flavors. Adequate citric-like acidity holds it all together and despite the richness and power, it’s not over done. … Read more

Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2006

($30, Bluewater Wine Company): Wines from Western Australia, including their Chardonnays, do not fit the conventional mold for Australian wines.  The Chardonnays in general, like this one, are leaner–yet still flavor packed–and racier compared to their South Australian counterparts.  Howard Park, one of Western Australia’s top producers, has fashioned this wine with an almost Riesling-like vibrancy that complements the green appley flavors.… Read more

Matua Valley, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2008

($13, Fosters Wine Estates): It’s ironic that New Zealand’s signature wine, Sauvignon Blanc, usually associated with the Marlborough region on the South Island, was actually introduced into the country by Matua Valley Winery on the North Island in the 1970s.  Matua has subsequently purchased vineyards in Marlborough and makes a terrific Sauvignon Blanc from grapes grown there. … Read more