Category Archives: Reviews

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Touraine, Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2017

($25):  Though the vast majority (>95%) of wine from Chinon is red and made from Cabernet Franc, noteworthy and distinctive whites made from Chenin Blanc also carry that appellation.  This is one of them.  Couly-Dutheil is one of the top Chinon producers, making a bevy of easy-to-recommend reds year after year, so it should come as no surprise that they can make this stellar white wine. Read more

Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Roserock 2016

($31):  The Drouhin family, the famed Burgundy producer, is doing what comes naturally to Burgundy producers, focusing on the uniqueness of vineyards.  They’ve purchased an additional vineyard in another part of the Willamette Valley and are making distinctive wines there that are different from the ones they produce in the Dundee Hills, showing that terroir is alive and well in Oregon. Read more

Domaine Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2016

($44, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Ferret has always been one of the top names in Pouilly-Fuissé, being one of the first to move from bulk to bottled wine after World War II to ensure quality.  Since being acquired by Beaune-based Maison Louis Jadot in 2008, Ferret’s wines have reached new heights, no doubt, in part due to Audrey Braccini, their exceptionally talented winemaker. Read more

P. Ferraud et Fils, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) “La Dynastie des Ferraud” 2015

($30):  Though Ferraud’s wines have been in the U.S. market in the past, they currently have no importer, which is a shame because they consistently make distinctive Beaujolais.  (The prices I quote come from a world-wide averages.)   My experience with their wines comes from decades ago when they were imported and, more recently, drinking them in Paris bistros. Read more

Louis Tête, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Chante-Loup 2018

($15):  Côte de Brouilly, one of the 10 crus, or named villages of Beaujolais, is really a small mountain that emerges from Brouilly, another of the named villages.  It has many lieux-dits (place names) on its slope.  More and more, Beaujolais producers are identifying specific sites within the cru because they believe the wines are distinctive and reflect the site, just as in the rest of Burgundy. Read more

Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2016

($30):  Capezzana is certainly among the top producers, if not the top one, in Carmignano, the DOCG that requires inclusion of Cabernet (either Sauvignon or Franc) in the blend with Sangiovese.  Think of it as the original Super Tuscan.  Capezzana is incredibly consistent, year after year, producing a beautifully balanced Carmignano that marries fruit and earth perfectly. Read more

Joseph Perrier, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Royale” Brut NV

($42):  The Champagne firm of Joseph Perrier, founded in 1825, has no relation to Perrier-Jouët or Laurent Perrier.  Joseph Perrier produces a graceful and precise non-vintage brut from roughly equal amounts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.  It’s a joy to sip and drink, in part, I suspect because it typically includes 20 percent of reserve wines. Read more